Show us your vintage mountain bikes!
#7426
Senior Member
Here's my 1998 Tunturi Kayapo, the bike is Finnish and the frame is plasma welded in Finland as well, it's a pretty light weight ride. Back in the days it was my dream bike after it won with a five-star review in a local mag mtb round-up - I got it when I was 15 in '98 and have ridden it ever since.
Originally it was all Shimano STX parts but things have been replaced over the years - and last week it got a brand new BB, chain, chainrings, cassette, pedals (MKS BM-7 for that old-school flavour) etc. New break pads and tires, too. Wheels are dead straight (I had to true them a little), though the rear wheel had been replaced a few years ago after the old one just gave up and cracked while driving. I imagine it had quite a bit of kms/miles on it at that point.
This thing has got a lot of scratches and wear on the surface, I have torn off the original decals at some point (and replaced with some electric tape hahah) but technically it's like new now, just like it was brought from the store yesterday. All the memories this bike has...
Originally it was all Shimano STX parts but things have been replaced over the years - and last week it got a brand new BB, chain, chainrings, cassette, pedals (MKS BM-7 for that old-school flavour) etc. New break pads and tires, too. Wheels are dead straight (I had to true them a little), though the rear wheel had been replaced a few years ago after the old one just gave up and cracked while driving. I imagine it had quite a bit of kms/miles on it at that point.
This thing has got a lot of scratches and wear on the surface, I have torn off the original decals at some point (and replaced with some electric tape hahah) but technically it's like new now, just like it was brought from the store yesterday. All the memories this bike has...
Last edited by noahsmonark; 09-05-20 at 02:21 AM.
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#7427
Junior Member
Not trying to sell this for this guy, but was wondering about his claims. Ritchey design/Bridgestone made...
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik...168367241.html
Frame (Ritchey frame design): 4130 chrome-moly tri caliber main tubes, 4130 crome-moly stays, forged double eyelet dropouts, tange new falcon sealed headset, 21", Made in Japan!, WB=109.4cm, jet black
Wheels: rims Araya 7X alloy (26x1.75), hubs Shimano Deore XT, alloy, large flange, 36H S/S 14G, sealed bearings
F&R derailleurs: Shimano XT, Shimano LX Exage 300
Brakes: Diacomp 980 alloy, Diacomp mountain levers
Cranks: SR SAC-310 forged alloy: 175:48/38/28, new OMNI Racer Square Taper Cromo Steel Bottom Bracket
Freewheel: Suntour PT-5000: 32-14T
Seat/post:Serfas, SR CRE-100X (Sakae Two way quick release adjustable saddle, longitudinal adj)
Shifters: SunTour micro lite
Pedals: SR touring
Handlebar/stem: SR aluminum alloy
Extras: Rear rack w/ "Rack Mate"(rare), water bottle holder, Double kickstand to stabilize a loaded bike!
The bike has been completely overhauled: new brake and shifter cables, upgraded bottom bracket (sealed bearing), dis-assembled, de-greased, polished aluminum, lubricated, reassembled, tuned.
This is a solid all-terrain machine made when mountain bikes just came into being. They are typically over engineered, over built with the highest quality components, and therefore, made to last. This is a rare survivor
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik...168367241.html
1985 Schwinn High Sierra:made by Bridgestone Japan, 21" - $725 (oakland lake merritt / grand)
image 1 of 17Frame (Ritchey frame design): 4130 chrome-moly tri caliber main tubes, 4130 crome-moly stays, forged double eyelet dropouts, tange new falcon sealed headset, 21", Made in Japan!, WB=109.4cm, jet black
Wheels: rims Araya 7X alloy (26x1.75), hubs Shimano Deore XT, alloy, large flange, 36H S/S 14G, sealed bearings
F&R derailleurs: Shimano XT, Shimano LX Exage 300
Brakes: Diacomp 980 alloy, Diacomp mountain levers
Cranks: SR SAC-310 forged alloy: 175:48/38/28, new OMNI Racer Square Taper Cromo Steel Bottom Bracket
Freewheel: Suntour PT-5000: 32-14T
Seat/post:Serfas, SR CRE-100X (Sakae Two way quick release adjustable saddle, longitudinal adj)
Shifters: SunTour micro lite
Pedals: SR touring
Handlebar/stem: SR aluminum alloy
Extras: Rear rack w/ "Rack Mate"(rare), water bottle holder, Double kickstand to stabilize a loaded bike!
The bike has been completely overhauled: new brake and shifter cables, upgraded bottom bracket (sealed bearing), dis-assembled, de-greased, polished aluminum, lubricated, reassembled, tuned.
This is a solid all-terrain machine made when mountain bikes just came into being. They are typically over engineered, over built with the highest quality components, and therefore, made to last. This is a rare survivor
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#7428
TXHC
Just got this 88(?) Jamis Dakar Sport up and running. Tange Prestige frame with Tange MTB fork.
Deore drivetrain is sweet, and it’s my first u-brake. Plenty of power to skid that rear tire.
Swapped out the handlebars for some Sim Works getaround bars, new grips and cables all around. Waiting on new tires now.
Obviously the seat is a stand in.
Anyone have a yellow Flite?
Deore drivetrain is sweet, and it’s my first u-brake. Plenty of power to skid that rear tire.
Swapped out the handlebars for some Sim Works getaround bars, new grips and cables all around. Waiting on new tires now.
Obviously the seat is a stand in.
Anyone have a yellow Flite?
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#7429
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,642
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
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Nice job on that Dakar. I like the keg carrier.
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#7430
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Similar frames indeed... They must be japanese and very similar production time.. Interesting that i found one bike, locally and just yesterday, that cought my eye right away because it looked a lot like. My Ritchey ascent.. It was a Spanish brand (Monty) and used U breaks both front and rear.. Otherwise pretty similar to these læst three modeIs.. The owner has a lil store in the corner, and he said it belongs to his Brother in law, so I asked the guy to tell him that i want to buy it.. If i buy it i will post some pics
#7431
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
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Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
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1988 Stumpjumper Comp
I've had this '88 Stumpjumper Comp for a while. I had it built up as a drop bar commuter for many years. It was (and is) a great foul weather commuter.
I decided to turn it back into a flat bar commuter as I'm building up a 1992 Stumpjumper with drop bars. The '88 has a lot of original parts (front and rear derailleurs, wheels, rear u brake, stem, and headset). The shifters, brake levers, front cantilever, pedals, seat and seatpost, handlebars, crank and BB are replacements.
I decided to turn it back into a flat bar commuter as I'm building up a 1992 Stumpjumper with drop bars. The '88 has a lot of original parts (front and rear derailleurs, wheels, rear u brake, stem, and headset). The shifters, brake levers, front cantilever, pedals, seat and seatpost, handlebars, crank and BB are replacements.
Last edited by bikemig; 09-07-20 at 09:19 AM.
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#7432
Senior Member
93 Kona Cinder Cone
Bike me and my girlfriend restored for her. Full Deore LX group, Kenda Krisp tires, and all new contact points. She sewed up the stem bag. Might need a blacked out seatpost and some fresh paint next!
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#7434
Senior Member
New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?
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#7435
Senior Member
New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?
i have one that has been sitting disassembled for years, one of these days i will get to building it back up. i really like that paint scheme on them
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#7438
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Montpelier, VT
Posts: 18
Bikes: '85 Trek 620, '88 Schwinn Cimarron, '88 Novara Ponderosa, '6#? Magni, '93 Stumpjumper w/Dirt Drops, 70's Raleigh Competition G.S., '80 Bill Vetter, '90's IF Deluxe
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I picked this '88 Novara Ponderosa up over the weekend. Pictured as purchased, before I've done any cleaning or updating. The combination of the fillet brazing and lug at the seat/top tube juncture reminds me of my Schwinn Cimarron. I figured it was made in Japan, but the sticker on the head tube says "Made in Taiwan." Apparently these were designed by Scot Nichols of Ibis in a collaboration with REI. I'm looking forward to a re-build - at a minimum swapping out tires and likely handlebars. Dirt drops are a possibility. I've already put on a Brooks B-15. These old mountain bikes make such a great starting point, and I figure with an affordable mid-range bike like this, I don't have to worry too much about veering from the original build. Striking how similar the paint scheme is to the Jamis posted above.
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#7439
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
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Nice find! I have an '87 made in Japan with the Scot Nicol signature decal on the tt. Great running bike. Enjoy the build!
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#7440
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
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New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?
However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?
Once you measure your BCD on the spider, look for narrow/wide chainrings in that BCD. The idea is that the alternating gear tooth widths (narrow/wide) will hold the chain on the ring.
Another option is a chain guide, which can get expensive if you want to adapt your frame for ISCG 05 fittings. A potential workaround is mounting a FD, locking out the movement with the limit screws, and running the chain through it. I think the chain guides work better than this method, because the FD is designed to assist shifting, not prevent it.
#7441
Junior Member
1987 Miyata Trail Runner
Here's my 1987 Miyata Trail Runner. I have to warn you, it's the sexiest bike on the road right now, and looking at it will probably make you want to throw your bike in the garbage. Also, when looking at these pictures, you should either be blasting "Do You Believe In Love" by Huey Lewis, or the "Full House" theme song
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#7443
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Campbell River BC
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Picked up this Specialized Stumpjumper today for $50 Can. 84 or 85 i think. 17 inch frame,24 inch wheels, all original i think and in beautiful shape.
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#7445
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
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Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
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Do you believe it's true
Beautiful! It does crack me up that the 17" frame and 24" wheels still has, what, 175mm cranks? For the leverage, you know. Because... gears don't exist?
#7446
Senior Member
No one has responded to your question in the thread, so here goes.
My daughter's Trek Precaliber uses two plastic side plates to keep the chain from falling off of the ring. I wouldn't recommend that here, though.
Once you measure your BCD on the spider, look for narrow/wide chainrings in that BCD. The idea is that the alternating gear tooth widths (narrow/wide) will hold the chain on the ring.
Another option is a chain guide, which can get expensive if you want to adapt your frame for ISCG 05 fittings. A potential workaround is mounting a FD, locking out the movement with the limit screws, and running the chain through it. I think the chain guides work better than this method, because the FD is designed to assist shifting, not prevent it.
My daughter's Trek Precaliber uses two plastic side plates to keep the chain from falling off of the ring. I wouldn't recommend that here, though.
Once you measure your BCD on the spider, look for narrow/wide chainrings in that BCD. The idea is that the alternating gear tooth widths (narrow/wide) will hold the chain on the ring.
Another option is a chain guide, which can get expensive if you want to adapt your frame for ISCG 05 fittings. A potential workaround is mounting a FD, locking out the movement with the limit screws, and running the chain through it. I think the chain guides work better than this method, because the FD is designed to assist shifting, not prevent it.
Im really enjoying the heck out of this bike. It's simply a blast to ride. I've yet to ride my road bike since I acquired it a couple of weeks or so ago.
#7447
Mad bike riding scientist
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Location: Denver, CO
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My wife had exactly that model. The crank was too long and the wheels were a bit too small and the whole thing was too heavy. The frame was a bit too big for a 5’ tall person as well. Not Specialized’s best effort.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#7448
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
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Don't see them very often. Saw one a couple years ago in the Sacramento (Calif.) area, for US$180. Another, the year prior for ~$500.
Needs a 155-160mm crank, on the thing.
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#7449
Mad bike riding scientist
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I modified the cranks on my wife’s bike by cutting them down to 155mm and redrilling for the pedals. I didn’t have a reverse threaded tap so I just threaded it for normal thread. I got two sets of Leotard pedals and swapped out the pedal spindles. Luckily, the threads were tight enough that they never backed out. I still have the cranks, although they haven’t been used for 30+ years.
I would never do that for me but I put a lot of carbon parts on her bike now that I would never use. She can’t stress them like I can.
I would never do that for me but I put a lot of carbon parts on her bike now that I would never use. She can’t stress them like I can.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#7450
Newbie
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[QUOTE=cyccommute;21691770. I didn’t have a reverse threaded tap so I just threaded it for normal thread.
I would never do that for me but I....... on her bike .[/QUOTE]
Out of context sounds criminal... Lol... Also.. Couldn't you have threaded reverse...?.. Like.. Normal, but, from the back?...
I would never do that for me but I....... on her bike .[/QUOTE]
Out of context sounds criminal... Lol... Also.. Couldn't you have threaded reverse...?.. Like.. Normal, but, from the back?...