christian_vk

Hi, i have Road bike from the 90's, with a Shimano Exage 400 EX derrailleur. The 7v cassette has no lockrings or noches to use the usual extracting tool. I tried to pull with 2 chain segments and 2 groove pliers, both the smaller (counterclockwise) and bigger sprocket (clockwise) (as i have no the specific tool), because saw on internet that de uniglide cassettes are extracted like this, because they have no lockring as usual cassettes (but i dont know if my cassette is uniglide, i cant see any inscription) but i cant move It, so i dont know if the problem is that i am trying wrongly to extract the cassette, or if i cannot aply the enough pression because i have no specific tools. Could anyone help me, please? Im sorry a cannot put images here because i have not posted enough.

FastJake

You probably can't remove a Uniglide cassette (if that's what you have) with pliers. You probably need a chain whip. Some people will say you need two chain whips, but you only need one. With the wheel installed in the bike, shift to the largest cassette cog. Then use the chainwhip to unscrew the smallest cog. You will have to brace the pedals or have someone help you hold the bike when you do this.

If you post a picture we can verify the type of cassette/freewheel, but you might not have enough posts to do that yet.

Iride01 

You can upload a pic to somewhere like https://imgur.com/ and just write the sharing link in the plain text of your message. Then remove the https:// and put a space on either side of the period. Then the SPAM filter should let it pass. Don't try to use any linking tools in the editor or the attachment manager. Just write it in the same box you are typing your message.

Bill Kapaun

A UniGlide cassette will have a threaded smallest cog.
The FH threads will be visible to a small extent.

christian_vk

Hi Jake, thanks for your answer. Im sure i have a cassette, not a freewheel, but you are right, it would be useful if i could post an image for you to see the type of cassette but i didn't post enough. If the cassette has no notches to insert the common cassette extractor tool, unscrew the smaller sprocket (uniglide stlyle) is the only way to extract the cassette, right? in other words, are there more cassette types or systems to remove the cassette? (only to make sure i will not break the small sprocket trying to unscrew it)

christian_vk

Thank you all! This is the cassette (https : //pin.it/40cT21f) im sorry it os so dirty, a was going to clean it after removing it. Bill, i cant see the threads...

FastJake

Yes, if you actually have a Uniglide cassette, the only way to remove it is to unscrew the smallest cog. If you have some other kind of cassette, don't worry. You won't get the cog off that way but you won't break anything either. Remember how much tension the chain is under when pedaling. Pulling on it with a chain whip, by hand, isn't enough to cause damage.

Bill Kapaun

It's not a UniGlide. You'd see the evidence of the splines where the smallest cog would screw on.
The fact your smallest cog is 14T is an indicator of a free wheel. (not proof positive, since I have a 14-25T cassette on the shelf)
I think IF you cleaned out the "innards" a bit more, you'd see some faint splines for a FW removal tool.
Some real low end FW's are a destructive removal.

alcjphil

The photo is too dark to see the center of the hub clearly.

WGB 

You should be able to load a photo to your albums.

Click on your profile and you'll see albums listed on the right hand side of the screen.

It'll say

Albums

You have not created any albums
Add Album

Add a few photos there

dedhed

Is the hub itself an exage? Shimano? Does it have any markings on it?

https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...cf2e0&Enum=110

dedhed

Count again - 13T is what I'm seeing.

Bill Kapaun

I probably should have cleaned my glasses.
I'm sure you can help the OP.

christian_vk

Thank you all. Now i dant do it, but tomorrow i will clean it, and i will try to take a better photo. Also, i will look the hub (i only remember that the rim has a mavic sticker. I thought it was not a freewheel because the entire mechanism rotate, and it has not a central piece that stay in place (as other freewheel i've seen)

icemilkcoffee 

Bill is correct. This is not uniglilde

dabac

That is an odd one.
I don’t think it’s an Uni-Glide.
IME, on UG hubs the dust cap for the wheel bearing is pressed into the f/h body. So viewed from the axle end you should see one circle marking the split between sprocket and body, then another marking the split between body and dust cap. Also, I’d expect to see the splines, and the body protruding slightly past the sprocket. There’s more I don’t recognize with the axle/dust cap fit.

I think you’re looking at some kind of freewheel, or at least something that’s NOT an UG cassette.

Bill Kapaun

A UniGlide will show "some" evidence of splines & threading.
This one is quite obvious, but it's pretty hard to totally conceal.

FastJake

I agree, that does not look like a Uniglide cassette. Can you remove those (plastic?) dust covers? I suspect freewheel removal notches are hiding under them.

Iride01 

Pull the cones and bearings out of the other side and see if the axle will pull out the cassette side. Then you might be able to pull the cassette and freehub off together and maybe see some identification on the back side. Then we won't have to guess.

But still, if you take a rag with some mineral spirits or WD40 on it there might be some identification under the gunk.

Is there a stamp or label still visible on the hub body between the two flanges?

dedhed

You may be dealing with a Suntour cassette hub, possibly micro drive.
Is the black ring inside the cog rubber? is it a seal that pops out?
Any markings on the hub itself?


https://www.yellowjersey.org/ST_CASS.JPG

https://sbarner.blogspot.com/2014/03...-rear-hub.html

Troul 

the shaft looks like it has a flat side, acting as a key for each gear to slide onto in the right orientation. Hold the shaft steady & twist the gears slightly CCW. It looks like it's bound up. Once the flats are equally in position, pull the gears outward (away) off from the shaft.

christian_vk

Hi everyone! Finally, it is a freewheel, the black piece in the middle was a dust cap! It is a Regina syncro S 1992 (made in italy). Now, lets see if i can remove it!

Thank you all!

JohnDThompson 

That freewheel is new enough to use the superior splined remover tool, rather than the troublesome two-prong remover. The Park FR-4 is still in production. Be aware if your freewheel is mounted on a Campagnolo Record, Zeus, or Phil Wood hub, you will need to remove the locknut and spacers from the drive side of the axle to seat the FR-4 tool. Otherwise, if you can source a Phil Wood or Zeus freewheel tool, you can avoid that hassle.

christian_vk

Hi! i have a new problem. I removed the sprokes (not the inner piece attached to the wheel) to service it. I cleaned the old grease, the bearings... and then, i put all back together, with new grease (velox universal grease, the pink one). The problem is that when i spin it backwards, it doesn`t go smooth, is a little bit hard. When i put the wheel on the bike, pedaling backwards is still not smooth. i don`t know what have i done wrong... too much grease? i put grease on a wrong part? wrong grase type?. i followed the steps of the RJ the bike guy on youtube (Bicycle freewheel dissassembly/assembly).

sovende

Sounds to me like the OP has separated the cog assembly from the main body of the freewheel. While it’s likely that RJ the bike guy’s video provided the proper procedure I’m going to say that the pawl mechanism of the freewheel has NOT been reassembled correctly! I have done this on more than a couple of freewheels and I’m sure that others that have done so will attest to the fact that it’s NOT a simple procedure. Two races of relatively small ball bearings (easily lost on disassembly ), two (maybe four?) pawls and their respective springs (also easily lost) make for a procedure that many avoid! The fact that the OP is describing “it doesn’t go smooth, is a little bit hard”, tells me reassembly wasn’t done correctly . I could be wrong (but I don’t think so). I hate to be overly critical but proper punctuation, spelling and grammar just might make it easier to assess the situation. To be sure, my punctuation, spelling and grammar isn’t always perfect (many times due to “auto-correct” ) but proofreading before hitting the “submit” button IS important! Just sayin’ .