rear derailleur cable
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rear derailleur cable
how long should this be? the covering section of housing between the cable stop on the chainstay and derailleur cage? am changing from bar end to downtube levers. while removing the old cable, i noticed the housing noodle had worked its way out of the housing about 2"/ 52mm. the ferrule had opened or worn enough (i may have used a brake cable piece with larger opening not realizing) to allow the the noodle to pass.
because of this, my derailleur cable rubbed against the spiral housing and was down to about 3 strands. so it was just bulls... luck i took things apart before riding anyway.
Q: did the loop of cable & housing add to the problem? should i shorten it? or was it just normal wear? the cable was only 2 seasons old, and i ride less than 2k miles a season.
thanks
because of this, my derailleur cable rubbed against the spiral housing and was down to about 3 strands. so it was just bulls... luck i took things apart before riding anyway.
Q: did the loop of cable & housing add to the problem? should i shorten it? or was it just normal wear? the cable was only 2 seasons old, and i ride less than 2k miles a season.
thanks
#2
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Plase take a photo. It will be easier to even draw how it should look.
Cable length depends also from type of rear mech. Shimano with Shadow has much shorter outer cable than "standard".
Cable length depends also from type of rear mech. Shimano with Shadow has much shorter outer cable than "standard".
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+1 for photos and brand/model of derailleur would really help. Manufacturers usually post setup manuals online and will give a recommendation for housing loop length for your specific model. No way of knowing what caused your cable to fray without more info and usually not caused by too long housing. Most errors in housing length are that it was too short.
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Are you trying to reuse the old housing? I'd just replace it with derailleur housing and ferrels. You just want it long enough to make a smooth turn, but longer is better than too short.
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It's something that you'll probably have to make compromises on from the ideal bend. But you want don't want either end of the housing to immediately be angled as it comes out of the cable stop of barrel adjuster. Nor do you want a tight radius on the cable housing in general. But you also don't want so much radius that your cable housing is flopping all over as you hit road bumps and such. That might give you some ghost shifting.
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there are several things which should be mandated, but in this instance the parts have been removed, discarded, and replacements ordered. there have been some very helpful responses.
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Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
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PRO TIP: never actually discard any parts until the new stuff has arrived, been installed and test ridden. The old stuff does not take up much room and can be very helpful.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
#10
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PRO TIP: never actually discard any parts until the new stuff has arrived, been installed and test ridden. The old stuff does not take up much room and can be very helpful.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
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PRO TIP: never actually discard any parts until the new stuff has arrived, been installed and test ridden. The old stuff does not take up much room and can be very helpful.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
Pro tip 2: do not blindly assume the old stuff was correct though. Even factory original can be wrong. Be open to questioning what you encounter. Trust but verify.
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Ha... Sorry to laugh... Ya never discard. Ya just throw them in a parts bin so ya can dig um up latter. Eventually that parts bin gets so well supplied you can build another bike from it... Ha... Again... But of course, you know this...
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