Hydraulic Disc Brakes
04-17-22, 08:16 PM
#26
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A) you're moving goalposts. We were talking about the scenario of pads being squeezed so tightly that nothing short of a bleed job could rectify the situation, which is just implausible
B) pistons aren't going to be overly extended unless the pads are removed
I think it's fair to assume that there's no compelling reason to continue here, so I'll bow out.
B) pistons aren't going to be overly extended unless the pads are removed
I think it's fair to assume that there's no compelling reason to continue here, so I'll bow out.
You do you.
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04-18-22, 12:09 AM
#27
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My hydro discs came with the inserts mentioned, but also like mentioned, they are nothing but thin pieces of plastic, about as thick as cereal box cardboard folded in half or three times. If you want something less home-made, i've also used "toilet shims" which work perfectly and are cheap and available at any hardware store, home depot, etc.
That said, I've transported my bikes with the front wheels off, several times without remembering to put in the inserts and have never "accidentally" bumped the brake levers. So I think it's a very unlikely scenario.
Ace Toilet Shims White Plastic - Ace Hardware
That said, I've transported my bikes with the front wheels off, several times without remembering to put in the inserts and have never "accidentally" bumped the brake levers. So I think it's a very unlikely scenario.
Ace Toilet Shims White Plastic - Ace Hardware
Last edited by Camilo; 04-18-22 at 12:13 AM.
04-18-22, 12:35 AM
#28
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There’s a considerable gap between ”what CAN happen” and ”what will USUALLY happen”.
I’ve never experienced, read or heard about accidentally bumping a lever being a problem. I’ve seen a guy distractedly pulling the wrong lever on a bike while installing the wheels and ejecting one piston. But I’ve also seen some calipers happily surviving brake actuation w/o rotor and w/o ejecting a piston - if pads are new and both pistons equally eager to move.
Wouldn’t dare to try it on my Formulas, as one piston is definitely getting a bit lazy.
So I guess repeated accidental bumping of the lever might eventually eject one piston and cause a troublesome issue. A possible but not likely scenario. Jamming just about anything between the pads will stop it from happening.
I’ve never experienced, read or heard about accidentally bumping a lever being a problem. I’ve seen a guy distractedly pulling the wrong lever on a bike while installing the wheels and ejecting one piston. But I’ve also seen some calipers happily surviving brake actuation w/o rotor and w/o ejecting a piston - if pads are new and both pistons equally eager to move.
Wouldn’t dare to try it on my Formulas, as one piston is definitely getting a bit lazy.
So I guess repeated accidental bumping of the lever might eventually eject one piston and cause a troublesome issue. A possible but not likely scenario. Jamming just about anything between the pads will stop it from happening.
04-18-22, 07:16 AM
#29
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I don't know whether this is correct, but when I bought my bike, it came with those orange inserts and the shop told me to put them in when I take off the wheels, so I do. It's easy to do and I've never had any problems. So if you're removing your wheels, just put the tabs in.
04-18-22, 09:41 AM
#31
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True story:
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
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04-18-22, 10:08 AM
#32
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True story:
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
I have never ever heard of anyone having to bleed their brake system in order to rectify this problem.
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04-18-22, 10:19 AM
#33
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True story:
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
This weekend while stuffing my hydro equipped bike into my vehicle, my helpful neighbor grabbed a handful of front brake with the wheel removed. When I got home, I grabbed a plastic putty knife and jammed it in between the pads and twisted it slightly, separating the pads. I slipped the wheel on, tightened the thru axle, grabbed the front brake lever to reset the pads and lived to write about it here. Amazing.
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04-18-22, 11:19 AM
#34
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04-19-22, 09:25 AM
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There are little blocks that you can shove between the pads.
You do NOT need to do a bleed if you squeeze the lever and push the pads together. You just pry them all the way open (flathead screwdriver or butterknife works) and reset after reinstalling the wheel by operating the lever until the pads make contact again.
if you have brakes that are super sensitive to perfect alignment (Shimanos and SRAM are not like this) then you may have a little pad rub, but nothing too bad that you can’t ride them until you have a chance to tweak them.
You do NOT need to do a bleed if you squeeze the lever and push the pads together. You just pry them all the way open (flathead screwdriver or butterknife works) and reset after reinstalling the wheel by operating the lever until the pads make contact again.
if you have brakes that are super sensitive to perfect alignment (Shimanos and SRAM are not like this) then you may have a little pad rub, but nothing too bad that you can’t ride them until you have a chance to tweak them.
04-19-22, 09:44 AM
#36
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No you don't have to bleed them, but it's only a problem if you press the brake lever with the wheel off. Even if you accidentally do it, a brake spreader or flat end screwdriver will get them apart.
This isn't rocket science. I carry one of these with me just in case.
https://www.projectbikebend.com/prod...l-332546-1.htm
This isn't rocket science. I carry one of these with me just in case.
https://www.projectbikebend.com/prod...l-332546-1.htm
04-19-22, 03:04 PM
#38
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Having worked on hundreds of hydro bicycle brakes, installing them or fixing them, I recommend using the specific brake block that is designed to fit in the calipers with the brake pads installed. Usually they lock in so that they do not accidentally fall out.
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04-20-22, 03:24 PM
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04-21-22, 08:24 PM
#41
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Don't squeeze the brake levers.
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04-25-22, 03:24 PM
#42
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So assuming the pistons don't pop out and oil contaminates your pads and rotors than you should be able to just push back the pistons in with a lever. You would only need to bleed the brakes if the pistons pop out or the oil gets contaminated
I would just put a spacer pad in your car or in your saddle bag so this doesn't happen. Heck even some cardboard would do the trick
Not a huge deal but this is why I do prefer mechanical discs for a "travel bike" since you never have to worry about this or getting air trapped.
I would just put a spacer pad in your car or in your saddle bag so this doesn't happen. Heck even some cardboard would do the trick
Not a huge deal but this is why I do prefer mechanical discs for a "travel bike" since you never have to worry about this or getting air trapped.
04-25-22, 03:37 PM
#43
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04-26-22, 10:09 AM
#44
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Someone's trying to scare you.
As mentioned by others, Shimano has orange spacers that you can stick between the pads. Shimano also has yellow lever lock thingies that slide in under the levers and keeps both the brakes and the shifters from being actuated. I take long road trips regularly and I use both, though I could probably get away with just the lever block thingies.
I took a screen shot of a video with the lever block - they came with my levers when I built up my bike and I would expect that the shop that you buy from would have a box of 'em laying around if you ask.
As mentioned by others, Shimano has orange spacers that you can stick between the pads. Shimano also has yellow lever lock thingies that slide in under the levers and keeps both the brakes and the shifters from being actuated. I take long road trips regularly and I use both, though I could probably get away with just the lever block thingies.
I took a screen shot of a video with the lever block - they came with my levers when I built up my bike and I would expect that the shop that you buy from would have a box of 'em laying around if you ask.
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