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1988 Peugeot Triathlon

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1988 Peugeot Triathlon

Old 04-27-22, 06:37 PM
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Agfa001
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1988 Peugeot Triathlon

Hi, first time poster here...I bought a really nice condition 88 Triathlon about a year a half ago, all original Shimano 105 components – 12 speed. I ride it to commute to work in Los Angeles about 7 miles each way on mostly flat. I've noticed on flat sections in the highest gear I kind of spin out, like I'm pumping really fast but not gaining speed. A friend who knows about bikes told me I want either an 11 or 12 smallest rear cog to improve this. I counted, right now I have a 13. My LBS told me I can't just get a single new cog, that I have to get a whole new cassette – is this correct?

I found 2 on ebay: a hyperglide 12-24 or an ultegra CS 6400 uniglide 12-21...which would be better?
Will I even feel much of a difference going down to 12T from 13T?

I can't find any Shimano 11T cassettes and I also don't want to change it so much that I won't be able to use a low gear for climbing if I ever need to. I also feel like I might have seen a few things online that this bike couldn't take an 11 for some reason, I'd like to avoid switching to a 14 speed and having to change the derailleur and shifters..But does an 11 exist that would fit this bike?

Lastly - would getting more modern hubs/wheels save any significant weight or be any faster? ( iv'e had the rear wheels bearings repacked, shop says both wheels are true)

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-27-22, 07:31 PM
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What are your front chainring sizes?

Ensure you know the difference between a cassette and a freewheel and which you have. For a 2x6 you're very likely to have a freewheel and freewheels don't often have smaller cogs than 13 or 14. If you've got a 6 speed uniglide freehub then your cassette options will be limited.

Last edited by Narhay; 04-27-22 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 04-27-22, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
What are your front chainring sizes?
Ensure you know the difference between a cassette and a freewheel and which you have. For a 2x6 you're very likely to have a freewheel and freewheels don't often have smaller cogs than 13 or 14. If you've got a 6 speed uniglide freehub then your cassette options will be limited.
Thanks, front chainring is 42,52.
I think it is a freewheel? not totally sure, i just removed the rear wheel and looked at it but it doesn't have the tool fitting that is shown in the Park video in how to differentiate btwn the two. The original Peugeot catalog says shimano freewheel, pretty sure it is that. How would I tell if it's a 6 speed uniglide freehub?
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Old 04-27-22, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Agfa001
Thanks, front chainring is 42,52.
I think it is a freewheel? not totally sure, i just removed the rear wheel and looked at it but it doesn't have the tool fitting that is shown in the Park video in how to differentiate btwn the two. The original Peugeot catalog says shimano freewheel, pretty sure it is that. How would I tell if it's a 6 speed uniglide freehub?
​​​​​​https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
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Old 04-27-22, 09:23 PM
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You either have a freewheel hub or a Uniglide (UG) cassette hub. The Uniglide hub is not compatible with modern hyperglide (HG) cassettes.
But the first thing to do would be to see what type of hub you’ve got.
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Old 04-27-22, 09:59 PM
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Spinning out on flat regularly with 52x13,,, Dayumm!, you have my respect Sir!
But whether cassette or freewheel, you can totally custom configure the sprockets, if you want to optimize the ratios for your riding preferences. You will have to do it yourself; the average LBS will not be interested. If you are mechanically inclined, we can guide you.
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Old 04-27-22, 11:06 PM
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and down the rabbit hole we go....Thanks everyone for the input

Okay - after removing the rear wheel again and looking carefully at Sheldon Brown's article on how to tell the difference and the Park video, It's definitely a cassette.
What's next?

Last edited by Agfa001; 04-27-22 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 04-27-22, 11:29 PM
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I can't post links yet but I guess my original question stands - do I need to get a whole new cassette or can I get a 'Shimano Dura Ace EX Gold 11T Threaded Cog UniGlide Cassette NEW/NOS- Vint-6-Spd' on ebay and just switch out the small cog on my existing cassette?
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Old 04-28-22, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Agfa001
I can't post links yet but I guess my original question stands - do I need to get a whole new cassette or can I get a 'Shimano Dura Ace EX Gold 11T Threaded Cog UniGlide Cassette NEW/NOS- Vint-6-Spd' on ebay and just switch out the small cog on my existing cassette?

DO NOT buy the 11T Dura-Ace EX cog. In order to accommodate a 11T cog/sprocket, the Dura-Ace EX freehub used a smaller, pitch diameter for the threaded cog/sprocket. THe Dura-Ace EX threaded cog/sprocket is incompatible with other Uniglide freehubs.


Edit: Here's a photo of a standard Uniglide freehub (top/right) next to Dura-Ace EX (left/bottom). The dimensions for the splined cogs/sprockets are the same and all Uniglide splined cogs/spockets are interchangeable. However, note how the threads are cut into the splines on the standard Uniglide freehub, while the threaded end is necked down to a smaller diameter on the Dura-Ace EX unit. Standard Uniglide freehubs only accommodate a small cog down to 12T, while Dura-Ace EX accommodates as small as 11T. This was a concession to pro cyclists but required the smaller threaded diameter.


Dura-Ace EX (7200 series) is the only exception to the Uniglide, threaded outer cog/sprocket. The Uniglide freehubs on Dura-Ace AX (7300 series) and New Dura-Ace (7400 series) use the standard Uniglide threaded outer cog/sprocket. Note that NewDur-Ace would eventually transition from Uniglide to Hyperglide.

Last edited by T-Mar; 04-28-22 at 05:45 AM.
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Old 04-28-22, 05:27 AM
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Unglide cassettes that I've seen are screwed together, easy to disassemble and re-configure. I don't know what the lowest tooth count sprocket is for Uniglide, but Hyperglide sprockets are easy to adapt by filing the narrow gap to the UG width.
Your best bet is to look for non-Dura Ace UG and HG cassettes on Ebay, with 11T or 12T small sprocket, then mix and match.
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Old 04-30-22, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool
Unglide cassettes that I've seen are screwed together, easy to disassemble and re-configure. I don't know what the lowest tooth count sprocket is for Uniglide, but Hyperglide sprockets are easy to adapt by filing the narrow gap to the UG width.
Your best bet is to look for non-Dura Ace UG and HG cassettes on Ebay, with 11T or 12T small sprocket, then mix and match.
Thank you..
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Old 05-01-22, 04:36 PM
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So something like this could work? Any chance index shifting would still work or if I go from 6 to 7 speed and don't want to change the shifters or would I be stuck with friction?

New-Old-Stock Shimano HyperGlide (HG70) Cassette...7-speed/12x28


Last edited by Agfa001; 05-01-22 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 05-01-22, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Agfa001
So something like this could work? Any chance index shifting would still work or if I go from 6 to 7 speed and don't want to change the shifters or would I be stuck with friction?New-Old-Stock Shimano HyperGlide (HG70) Cassette...7-speed/12x28
You can't fit a 7s cassette on a 6s freehub.

No 11t smallest cog will fit on a non Dura-Ace freehub that doesn't use a separate lockring to secure the cogs. Your freehub cannot take an 11t cog.

There are 12t threaded cogs which can fit on your freehub body, but it is not easy to find one that has an integral 6s spacer (with 7s spacer is not too rare).

I recommend learning to spin a 52-13t top gear up to 35mph or so, you'll need a bit of a down slope. Are you using clip/strap or clipless pedals?
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Old 05-02-22, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dddd
You can't fit a 7s cassette on a 6s freehub.

No 11t smallest cog will fit on a non Dura-Ace freehub that doesn't use a separate lockring to secure the cogs. Your freehub cannot take an 11t cog.

There are 12t threaded cogs which can fit on your freehub body, but it is not easy to find one that has an integral 6s spacer (with 7s spacer is not too rare).

I recommend learning to spin a 52-13t top gear up to 35mph or so, you'll need a bit of a down slope. Are you using clip/strap or clipless pedals?
Thanks – I'm using clip/straps. So even if my hub is a uniglide cassette hub, I can't do the grinding modification mentioned to make it work? I see your point about just using what I have and getting used to pedaling faster. I don't have a speedometer but don't think I've approached 35mph except going down a hill..
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Old 05-02-22, 02:59 PM
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The smallest cog for a non-Dura-Ace Uniglide cassette hub is 12. The smallest cog is also threaded and holds the rest of the cassette on. There is no lock ring for Uniglide. I have two wheels with Uniglide cassette hubs (both for my old mountain bike) and I found some 6-sp Uniglide cassettes for sale online somewhere about 10 years ago (probably either Harris Cyclery or Loose Screws) but I have no idea if any are available today.

It is possible to grind down the large tab of Hyperglide cassette cogs to get them to slide onto a Uniglide freehub, but you still need to thread on the top Uniglide cog to lock it down (unless your freehub is both Uniglide and Hyperglide compatible, i.e. threaded for both, but I don't think that started until 8-speed).

Another option is to swap the Uniglide freehub with a Hyperglide freehub. I did this on a wheel that had a 105SC Uniglide hub. I bought a Shimano FH-HG20 rear hub and swapped axles and freehhub between the two hubs.

Edit: Loose screws has a 12! https://www.loosescrews.com/product/...ex-black-6-sp/

Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 05-02-22 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 05-02-22, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gonzo Bob
Edit: Loose screws has a 12!
Thanks a lot! and Thanks to you and everyone for their patience with these greenhorn questions,

But can I just purchase this single 12 cog in your link and swap (or have LBS swap) it with the 13 that is on there presently?

Last edited by Agfa001; 05-02-22 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 05-02-22, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Agfa001
But can I just purchase this single 12 cog in your link and swap (or have LBS swap) it with the 13 that is on there presently?
Yes.

An issue you might have getting just one new cog is mismatch in cog wear. If the old cogs are really worn, the chain might run fine on them but slip or jump on the new cog. And if you get a new chain, it will run fine on the new cog but it might slip on the old cogs.
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Old 05-02-22, 03:48 PM
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Awesome. That seems worth 20 bucks to try it – My existing cogs are fairly new/ very little wear
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Old 05-02-22, 04:29 PM
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Any idea what your cadence is when you feel you are pedalling too rapidly?
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Old 05-02-22, 06:04 PM
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A typical 52/13 top gear with a 700 x 25C tyre, should produce ~46 km/hr at a cadence of 90rpm. while 100 rpm would produce ~ 51 km/hr. Most avid cyclists ride at 90-100 rpm and don't need taller gearing unless they're strong competitive cyclists or like to draft Cinzano trucks.
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Old 05-02-22, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
Any idea what your cadence is when you feel you are pedalling too rapidly?

I kept coming back to this premise of the OP spinning out on a 52-13 and thinking that was crazy, but it turns out that's only 18.78 at 60 rpm. Nothing to sneeze at, but I could see that feeling limiting as you get stronger and stronger. Besides moving to a 12 tooth cassette or possibly swapping for a larger chainring, I would also suggest practicing a higher cadence. I know that I tended towards lower cadences when I first was starting out in cycling. I eventually learned to spin faster and am happier at higher cadences now.

https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

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Old 05-02-22, 06:24 PM
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Oh, and post pics when you can! I had one of the rainbow color scheme Peugeot Triathlons as my first "real" road bike. It was too small, but I added a Nitto technimic, a brooks, converted to brifters, and put lots of miles on it. Loved that bike. My dad still has it.

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Old 05-03-22, 09:47 AM
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Thanks for the input, I did not have any idea of my cadence, or rpm and had never given it much thought until now. All I know is that 90% of the time I am in the hardest gear and that often I will feel like my feet are spinning pretty good, and I'll reach down or look down to confirm that I can't shift to a higher gear and gain more speed. I did order the 12T cog linked to by Gonzo Bob above and will see if I can feel any difference from that.
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Old 05-03-22, 10:06 AM
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Old 05-08-22, 07:22 PM
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update - cog arrived and I installed today. In case anyone else is wondering this in the future, I can feel a substantial difference between the 13T and 12T. Satisfying to pull apart that cassette, dismantle and clean all the individual gears and spacers with a toothbrush and then reassemble. Thanks everyone for your help, I'm not sure if I'll end up keeping the cassette like it is now, switching back to the 13T small, or maybe picking up a 14 so that there isn't such a jump from 12 to 15T.

Separate question, and I think it's always done this and it's just bugged me today because I spend the whole afternoon working on the bike, the front derailer rubs just a bit, enough to be audible when it's on the big chainring and especially on the higher/harder to pedal rear gears. It almost looks like my front chainring isn't completely true as I look down while pedaling, like it goes from side to side. Any advice on this? Live with it? Get a new front chainring? Try to pry open the jaws of the derailer a tiny bit? Is this just part of the design of the biospace system?
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