Shimano Dyna Drive pedal rebuild process
#1
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Shimano Dyna Drive pedal rebuild process
anyone ever rebuild these pedals? they are dura ace AX. the ones with the outboard bearing. is there a trick to taking them apart? are they threaded different?
cheers
cheers
#2
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Originally Posted by intron
anyone ever rebuild these pedals? they are dura ace AX. the ones with the outboard bearing. is there a trick to taking them apart? are they threaded different?
cheers
cheers
I hope you are successful.
#3
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Hi Masi61,
i got the pedals off, but is there a direction to turn the allen keys? you have to use two at the same time or can i just turn one? for example, on the right pedal which way do i turn the big allen key hole? the one that is on the bearing? i have tried counter clockwise and clockwise and nothing budges.
Thanks
i got the pedals off, but is there a direction to turn the allen keys? you have to use two at the same time or can i just turn one? for example, on the right pedal which way do i turn the big allen key hole? the one that is on the bearing? i have tried counter clockwise and clockwise and nothing budges.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by intron
Hi Masi61,
i got the pedals off, but is there a direction to turn the allen keys? you have to use two at the same time or can i just turn one? for example, on the right pedal which way do i turn the big allen key hole? the one that is on the bearing? i have tried counter clockwise and clockwise and nothing budges.
Thanks
i got the pedals off, but is there a direction to turn the allen keys? you have to use two at the same time or can i just turn one? for example, on the right pedal which way do i turn the big allen key hole? the one that is on the bearing? i have tried counter clockwise and clockwise and nothing budges.
Thanks
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Easy to install and remove with a wrench. Contrary to modern pedals, mine (1980 vintage) had the flat part wide enough to allow the use of a standard wrench rather than an expensive pedal wrench. As for all pedals, the left one is left-threaded.
If they don't bulge, try to spray some nut looser around and wait 12-24 hours. And visit a bike- or car-mechanic that has a wrench of the proper size; don't use an adjustable wrench.
Mine worked trouble-free until 1998-1999. I had then to rebuild them a few times until they bit the dust in 2002 or 2003. So R.I.P after a little over 50 000 km, including some rain and snow.
If they don't bulge, try to spray some nut looser around and wait 12-24 hours. And visit a bike- or car-mechanic that has a wrench of the proper size; don't use an adjustable wrench.
Mine worked trouble-free until 1998-1999. I had then to rebuild them a few times until they bit the dust in 2002 or 2003. So R.I.P after a little over 50 000 km, including some rain and snow.
#6
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So, the allen key on the left side is reverse threaded? i still need two allen keys to expose the bearing balls right?, or once i remove the outboard bearing from the pedal itself the bearing balls will fall out?
#7
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Yes. I'm digging up a 10-year-old thread. Because relevance. And because it might be some kind of dubious record. And because I'm guessing after a decade someone may have an answer to share.
Everything else on the bike has come apart flawlessly, but I can't get inside the EX pedals. They're currently taking part in an ongoing PB Blaster party. In the meantime, is there a particular order I need to go in terms of disassembly? Seems the 6mm is the obvious choice (crank side of pedal), but nothing's moving. Also wondering, as there's a little pinhole in each (perhaps to facilitate removal), if the dustcaps are supposed to come off first and that's why I can't get any movement from the cup itself. I've encountered stranger things....
What I don't want to do is mess these things up, as parts are probably not too easy to come by. So if anyone can answer with some authority I'd appreciate it. And "just use more torque, ya jerk" is a perfectly acceptable response if that's the answer. Here's the exploded view, courtesy of @T-Mar, so we're all on the same page:
Dammit. Photobucket is down for maintenance. Guess I'll do it the lazy way. Thumb attached.
Everything else on the bike has come apart flawlessly, but I can't get inside the EX pedals. They're currently taking part in an ongoing PB Blaster party. In the meantime, is there a particular order I need to go in terms of disassembly? Seems the 6mm is the obvious choice (crank side of pedal), but nothing's moving. Also wondering, as there's a little pinhole in each (perhaps to facilitate removal), if the dustcaps are supposed to come off first and that's why I can't get any movement from the cup itself. I've encountered stranger things....
What I don't want to do is mess these things up, as parts are probably not too easy to come by. So if anyone can answer with some authority I'd appreciate it. And "just use more torque, ya jerk" is a perfectly acceptable response if that's the answer. Here's the exploded view, courtesy of @T-Mar, so we're all on the same page:
Dammit. Photobucket is down for maintenance. Guess I'll do it the lazy way. Thumb attached.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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Here are couple of more images of the instructions brochure for Dura Ace AX Dynadrive pedals. Note these are NOT EX pedals.
I just took off one of my drive side Dynadrive pedals. I have these on two bicycles.
I inserted the 6mm hex key into the hex on the spindle and inserted the 5mm hex key into thelock-nut on the inside of the pedal body.
The 5m key handle is pointind out over the cleat plate towards the rear of the pedal..
Turning the 6mm hex key CLOCKWISE resulted in the cone loosening. If I keep turning the 6mm key clockwise the cone will eventually separate from the lock nut.
I hope that helps you.
Note that in the image I provided it says that the notches on the left pedal housing are IDENTIFYING NOTCHES. The right pedal housing does NOT have them.
Cheers
Dura Ace AX 1b by Miele Man, on Flickr
Dura Ace AX 1a by Miele Man, on Flickr
I just took off one of my drive side Dynadrive pedals. I have these on two bicycles.
I inserted the 6mm hex key into the hex on the spindle and inserted the 5mm hex key into thelock-nut on the inside of the pedal body.
The 5m key handle is pointind out over the cleat plate towards the rear of the pedal..
Turning the 6mm hex key CLOCKWISE resulted in the cone loosening. If I keep turning the 6mm key clockwise the cone will eventually separate from the lock nut.
I hope that helps you.
Note that in the image I provided it says that the notches on the left pedal housing are IDENTIFYING NOTCHES. The right pedal housing does NOT have them.
Cheers
Dura Ace AX 1b by Miele Man, on Flickr
Dura Ace AX 1a by Miele Man, on Flickr
#9
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@Miele Man: That does help. Thanks!
...and sorry about the messed-up nomenclature. Good thing you knew what I was talking about better than I did!
EDIT: Well, it would have except that the one that is now broken free went the regular way, i.e. counter-clockwise. Does it make sense for these to use reverse threading for opposite sides? Dunno. But I'm halfway home.
FINAL EDIT FOR FUTURE REFERENCE: Both sides go counter-clockwise for removal. Fight hard, trust the threads. The correct answer to my original post did in fact turn out to be "more torque, ya jerk."
...and sorry about the messed-up nomenclature. Good thing you knew what I was talking about better than I did!
EDIT: Well, it would have except that the one that is now broken free went the regular way, i.e. counter-clockwise. Does it make sense for these to use reverse threading for opposite sides? Dunno. But I'm halfway home.
FINAL EDIT FOR FUTURE REFERENCE: Both sides go counter-clockwise for removal. Fight hard, trust the threads. The correct answer to my original post did in fact turn out to be "more torque, ya jerk."
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Last edited by Fahrenheit531; 04-27-16 at 07:38 AM.
#10
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So I just went ahead and overhauled these pedals, and turns out that the dust caps are completely worn out and does not do its job...stay sealed. So Im wondering, are these CRITICAL to have or can I survive without them? Im going to go and guess its close to impossible to find replacement dust caps for these, but perhaps maybe I can use something else? Any suggestions?
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...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
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...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
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I have a couple of different DD cranks, one DA racing the the other a touring triple. Also a couple of sets of DD pedals, one still NOS in the box, and today I found this. I was pretty sure I had one and it turned up while I was looking in the toolbox for something else. It has "For DD pedal" stamped in it. I found a few sets of the adaptors over the years that I passed on to other folks.
DD wrench.jpg
DD wrench.jpg
#14
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...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
...for anyone who just wants to follow the path of least resistance with these pedals, but still use the original crank (mine was a pretty nice one), there's a guy in Russia machining and selling retrofit adapters for the crank holes that will step them down to fit a standard 9/16 pedal threading. So you can choose from the wide assortment of current swell pedals available from MKS, etc.
Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore Pedal adaptors cranks adapters | eBay
...also this guy in Poland, for ten bucks more:
New cranks pedal adapters for Shimano Dura Ace AX EX 600AX Dyna Drive Deore | eBay
Cheers
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Not true, 170mm DD cranks are 170mm center to center. DD cranks feel like a longer crank but measure out like any traditional crank.
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This is why I love Bike Forums.
I've never owned a set of these pedals and cranks. I saw them when they first came out and developed an immediate allergy to them. I have now just learned more trivia about a technology that I will continue to resist owning than I had ever hoped to know, .
I've never owned a set of these pedals and cranks. I saw them when they first came out and developed an immediate allergy to them. I have now just learned more trivia about a technology that I will continue to resist owning than I had ever hoped to know, .
#17
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Cheers
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You need some. Buy mine. I've never used them either but you can't claim to be an enthusiast unless your place is crammed full of crap like this that you'll never get around to putting on a bike of your own.
#19
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In any case, when a DD crank has 170mm stamped on it, you can be sure it's center to center. If you buy some adapters to use 9/16 pedals that doesn't change the actual crank length. It does eliminate the DD variable crank length "feature".
Last edited by Mr IGH; 11-09-16 at 06:00 PM.
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Dura Ace AX DD pedals had 'easy-in' advantage
I found the DD pedals, with their short cleat plate and below-axle line design to be the fastest cleated pedals to get into. Their natural hanging angle made it easy for the toe of my shoe to find the strap opening and level out the pedal for easy entry. So, while other guys were fumbling around at a green light to get into their pedals, I was already off and running (riding) in the Dura Ace AX's.
I miss them for their low-centered design. But I don't miss dealing with straps.
I miss them for their low-centered design. But I don't miss dealing with straps.
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Thanks for this thread, I found it really helpful. Only comments to add:
- No reverse threads on the pedal cones or locking screws,
- For me, it was much easier to remove the locking screw before attempting to remove the cone. Once I did that, it came apart easily.
#22
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