New hubs/axle after cold set from 120 to 126?
10-19-22, 05:10 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
New hubs/axle after cold set from 120 to 126?
Hello guys, i am in the process of restauration of a Peugeot bike with 120mm OLD . I just have buy a Suntour 13-26 freewheel and from my infos i need 126mm to fit it.
So i want to cold set my frame but after this i think i need some new other parts : wheels are Mavic with Normandy high flange hubs and i have Simplex QR . Axle measure 132mm and QR 155mm as this :
I think i need a new 140mm axle and maybe cut a little(2mm) or use it as it is and 2x3mm spacers mounted each side between cones and lock nut. I am right? Can i use same QR or is dangerous? Regards , Sorin.
Any imput will be greatly appreciated.
So i want to cold set my frame but after this i think i need some new other parts : wheels are Mavic with Normandy high flange hubs and i have Simplex QR . Axle measure 132mm and QR 155mm as this :
I think i need a new 140mm axle and maybe cut a little(2mm) or use it as it is and 2x3mm spacers mounted each side between cones and lock nut. I am right? Can i use same QR or is dangerous? Regards , Sorin.
Any imput will be greatly appreciated.
10-19-22, 08:37 AM
#2
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First- Have you test fitted the fw onto the hub yet? This fw looks to be an ultra six, if so they are only a mm or two wider than a 5 cog one and might clear the stay end as is.
If you do the spreading and an axle replacement only add enough spacers to the drive side to allow for cog/stay clearance. Any more spacers needed to fit the new dropout width can be added to the non drive side. This will reduce both the redishing amount and better balance the bending forces acting on the axle, slightly. I would assume that some axle end trimming might be needed, not hard to do.
You will want the QR skewer to engage the adjusting nut by at least 5 threads. This should be easy to do the math for. Andy
If you do the spreading and an axle replacement only add enough spacers to the drive side to allow for cog/stay clearance. Any more spacers needed to fit the new dropout width can be added to the non drive side. This will reduce both the redishing amount and better balance the bending forces acting on the axle, slightly. I would assume that some axle end trimming might be needed, not hard to do.
You will want the QR skewer to engage the adjusting nut by at least 5 threads. This should be easy to do the math for. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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10-19-22, 10:01 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
First- Have you test fitted the fw onto the hub yet? This fw looks to be an ultra six, if so they are only a mm or two wider than a 5 cog one and might clear the stay end as is.
If you do the spreading and an axle replacement only add enough spacers to the drive side to allow for cog/stay clearance. Any more spacers needed to fit the new dropout width can be added to the non drive side. This will reduce both the redishing amount and better balance the bending forces acting on the axle, slightly. I would assume that some axle end trimming might be needed, not hard to do.
You will want the QR skewer to engage the adjusting nut by at least 5 threads. This should be easy to do the math for. Andy
If you do the spreading and an axle replacement only add enough spacers to the drive side to allow for cog/stay clearance. Any more spacers needed to fit the new dropout width can be added to the non drive side. This will reduce both the redishing amount and better balance the bending forces acting on the axle, slightly. I would assume that some axle end trimming might be needed, not hard to do.
You will want the QR skewer to engage the adjusting nut by at least 5 threads. This should be easy to do the math for. Andy
Can't wait to ride it !
10-19-22, 12:52 PM
#4
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Even if the new freewheel is a standard spaced 6-speed and requires a 126mm OLD, you can most likely keep the current 132mm axle. Add the needed 6mm of spacers (most or all on the non-drive side) and recenter/redish the rim. The standard 126mm old axle is 137mm long giving 5.5 mm of axle protrusion at each end. Using your axle will leave 3mm axle exposure at each end which is plenty to retain it in the dropouts. See Sheldon Brown's website for confirmation of this approach.
If your new freewheel is indeed an Ultra-6, no alteration of the hub should be needed.
If your new freewheel is indeed an Ultra-6, no alteration of the hub should be needed.
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10-19-22, 01:00 PM
#5
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Thanks, i don't mind to buy a new axle, is just like 10-15$ at most , more important for me is to use those Simplex QR to keep originality but the most important is safety. Here, in Europe, these old/vintage freewheels are so rare, and that 6 speed was the best i could find in like 3 weeks. Cheers Sorin.
