chuckybb

The 25mm steerer tube on my 1965+/- Otero is bent near the base. There is a .5mm deep gouge near the bend. The fork and frame seem OK otherwise. I believe the fork is worth saving. I've never come across this problem before so I'm hoping to learn what my options are. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

veganbikes

I would talk with a qualified frame builder. I know nothing about Otero but it looks like it could be cool for the fork crown alone so maybe worth saving?

Steel Charlie

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bop/7543530904.html

For detail, call Dale Saso of Sasobike at (408) area code 258-5574.
You can also check out Dale Saso web site at sasobike.com

Ross200

Andrew Stewart in Rochester might be able to fix that. He lurks around here.

FBinNY 

BITD we used to straighten bends like that routinely and, to my knowledge, it was never a problem.

However, in the current climate of liability suits, most if not all, will recommend against doing so.

If it were mine, I'd straighten and ride it without a second thought. I suggest you seek out an experienced mechanic with the confidence born of experience to save this fork.

FWIW - a countless number of new bikes had similar damage from being dropped on end while still in the box. They were quickly straightened and sold and no one was the wiser.

BTW if you decide to save this yourself, please say so, and I'll offer some suggestions.

maddog34

that is a very rare fork.. the Arrow was cut to that shape by hand... it was an identifier of the frame builder's choice. A rather Small Bike Shop in Spain.

I'd start by inspecting the REST of the fork for heavy rust/pitting... Next, if that inspection was satisfactory, i'd move to finding someone to straighten/weld/anneal the steerer tube... Choose well since literally Your Life Will depend on their skill, or lack thereof...............

PS.. i Own a '79/'80 Razeza... a small, but Very Prolific, Spanish Bike Shop model.. Razeza built most Zeus Bicycle frames... It was discovered in a Thrift store, with No Fork, for a ridiculously LOW Price... i was shopping for a fork online when the seller called to say HE'D FOUND THE FORK IN THE SAME THRIFT STORE !... I couldn't get in my car and on the road fast enough... :-D

dedhed

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ring-tube.html

​​​​​​https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...rer-today.html

Andrew R Stewart 

Is this bike a rider or a wall hanger? The "best" repair method is to replace the steerer. The issue I have with a straightening and continuing to ride path is the lack of being able to easily and routinely monitor the gouge in the steerer from the head cup's skirt rubbing. Not that i would expect a crack to develop but the steerer is rather mission critical being the only frame tube connected at one end only.

The OP can PM me if he wants another set of eyes on the bike. Andy (who has straightened a few steerers but never felt good about the results)

FBinNY 

Andy and I generally agree here on BF, but not on this judgment call.

I'm far more confident in the toughness of steel steerers, and more worried that someone might overheat the crown and compromise the blade joints, while removing the steerer.

Andrew R Stewart 

Which is why I would mechanically remove the bent steerer from the crown. And depending on resulting fit up with the replacement steerer either brass or silver it back in. The images suggest a chrome plated crown. If so with my method that would suffer cosmetically from the heat cycle.

There are a few aspects to consider here, perhaps the next step is having someone with real experience have a hands on look at both the fork and frame. Andy

maddog34

Andy Gilmore(Gilmour?), in the LA area, if i recall... is the Best Steel man i know... he is on Facebook and a member of the "Steel Is Real. classic vintage road bikes " Group there... if you have trouble finding someone Local, Look him up... he is truly a miracle worker and all around good person.

McCycle

Old timer bike mechanic showed me this trick decades ago for straightening bent fork stems like this, on forged Schwinn stems which is what everybody was riding, but the principles still apply to other forks within reason, and there is a risk of breakage, but the metal has a memory and will return to its original shape.

Assemble the bare fork on the bare frame, bearings adjusted properly and locked down.

Turn the fork opposite the direction of the original impact, hold the frame suitably high in the air for the impact force needed and slam it down on turf/lawn.

Observe the result, and proceed as needed.

Going too hard, you could over correct or break the fork.



What to do about a gauge I dunno, leave it alone unless it's unsafe. Welding/or brazing could affect the temper.

Someone with a real fancy MIG/TIG welder could probably repair it without affecting the temper by going slow, like cast iron welding, never letting the piece get hot, it can be done.

noobinsf 

Forum member in the Pacific Northwest @gugie replaced a steerer a couple of years ago and saved the chrome. It's documented in this thread here, with most of the repair itself captured on page 5, starting post #111: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...oration-5.html

It would be worth asking for an evaluation at least, as he has continued to wield the torch, and the Paramount in the thread above has seen many, many miles since the repair (also well documented in BF threads).

gugie 

I've replaced several steerers in the past few years. If the steerer is high tensile steel, I can drill, file, and sand out the steerer bits from the fork crown. If not I cut off the steerer just north of the crown, then use a hacksaw blade to carefully make slices of the steerer, then heat them up and pull out the slices one by one, which localizes the heat load. The crown/fork blade interface doesn't get anywhere near temps to compromise the joints. Judicious heat control, as always, is the key. The steerer then gets brazed in with silver filler, which means I don't have to get the crown temperature up to temps that would mess with the fork blades. I successfully saved the chrome fork crown as @noobinsf mentioned by carefully layering on and a thick coat of flux. to protect the chrome from interaction with air.

OP has several replies from framebuilders that can do the job, I'll throw my hat in the ring if the others can't get to it for awhile.

BTW, Andy Gilmore is out of Tucson, AZ. Had a nice visit to his shop as part of our Arizona Spring Training trip earlier this year.