down tube shifters question
#1
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down tube shifters question
I have a modern gravel bike with a 10-speed rear. I run it single speed a lot and so I like quick changeovers without messing with bar tape. It has brased on down tube bosses which can accept down tube shifters. Currently it's in 1x10 format and I'm using a vintage Shimano down tube friction shifter to shift my mountain bike clutch rear derailleur. It works rather well. But it takes a little over 180° of travel to run the range. I have seen that Velo Orange has a down tube shifter with an oversized barrel and micro clicks just for this application. They are also backordered right now. I thought it might be worth asking is there any vintage downtube shifters out there that naturally have a bigger barrel that will pull more cable travel? I'd be willing to do some eBay shopping if so.
#2
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I've seen accounts of creating a larger shifter barrel but haven't tried it myself. Just need to build up the track the cable runs along in some way or another.
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#3
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On most if not all Shimano derailers, one can relocate the cable to the other side of the pinch bolt, thus shortening the effective arm length and thus increase the derailer's travel in response to any given cable movement.
I do this whenever I pair a Shimano rear derailer with vintage friction levers, and it really speeds up the response.
I do this whenever I pair a Shimano rear derailer with vintage friction levers, and it really speeds up the response.
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#4
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Thread Starter
On most if not all Shimano derailers, one can relocate the cable to the other side of the pinch bolt, thus shortening the effective arm length and thus increase the derailer's travel in response to any given cable movement.
I do this whenever I pair a Shimano rear derailer with vintage friction levers, and it really speeds up the response.
I do this whenever I pair a Shimano rear derailer with vintage friction levers, and it really speeds up the response.
#5
good cheap fun
If you look at your rear derailleur, the pinch bolt attaches the derailleur cable to the derailleur itself, and that wire is pinched above or below the bolt's shaft. If you flip-flop the cable's pinched position (if it normally runs under, run cable over, vise-versa), that can change how far the derailleur moves in relation to the lever throw, for better or worse. You really don't know unless you try it though.
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#7
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If you look at your rear derailleur, the pinch bolt attaches the derailleur cable to the derailleur itself, and that wire is pinched above or below the bolt's shaft. If you flip-flop the cable's pinched position (if it normally runs under, run cable over, vise-versa), that can change how far the derailleur moves in relation to the lever throw, for better or worse. You really don't know unless you try it though.
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If you look at your rear derailleur, the pinch bolt attaches the derailleur cable to the derailleur itself, and that wire is pinched above or below the bolt's shaft. If you flip-flop the cable's pinched position (if it normally runs under, run cable over, vise-versa), that can change how far the derailleur moves in relation to the lever throw, for better or worse. You really don't know unless you try it though.