Brennan

Considering converting a one-speed to a 3-speed with a Sturmey hub wheel. Does the bike frame need cable stops/guides, or is that stuff included with the hub's "trim kit?"

Velo Mule

It looks like the trim kit does not include the shifter, cable, cable stops etc. However, we don't know the details of what you purchased or if this is an old Sturmey Archer AW wheel that you are installing on your bike.

FBinNY 

There are two options

1 - full housing with as clamp-on stop on a rear stay.

2 - short housing with clamp-on stop at front of frame and pulley on seat tube.

Note that since the cable has the adjusting barrel attached, the stops must be slotted to allow side entry. However there were versions where the rear adjuster was attached with a pinch bolt.

Brennan

Thanks for that.

To clarify, I haven't purchased anything yet. I am looking at a brand new package deal which includes a 700c wheel with the 3-speed hub, a thumb shifter, cable/housing, and "trim kit." Frame is chromoly with 120mm horizontal dropouts and no brazed on cable stops.

FBinNY 

The lack of braze ons doesn't matter, since you probably can't use them anyway.

I've no idea what a trim kit would include, but since there's not much left after what was listed, there's a decent chance some clips are included.

OTOH - there's always the chance that those clips won't match your frame tube diameter.

You have 2 options

Buy the wheel and sort out the clips later if necessary OR reach out to the seller asking exactly what's included.

Either is better than fretting and asking strangers to pretend they're psychic.

Brennan

Was quite a helpful post until that bit. Not "fretting" in the least, and I can't imagine how you got that impression. Before I bought, it was just really just a basic yes/no question on whether the cabling needs a brazed-on cable stop or not. Question answered. Thanks.

FBinNY 

While you weren't as happy with it, maybe the best part was the suggestion to ask the seller what's included and/or not.

Brennan

I am very impressed at how little it takes to upset you. Since it was listed as such, I thought it possible that a "trim kit" was a standard set of parts that Sturmey ships with their hubs, or that they offered it as an option. I thought it possible that a bike mechanic would know what said kit consists of. I realize now that was completely wild speculation on my part, since such a scenario is literally impossible, and such answers can only be had through psychic powers. I humbly apologize for my breach in protocol, which you are apparently in charge of.

Bill Kapaun

Ignore List

FBinNY 

Is the pot calling the kettle black?

Keep in mind that I don't have a dog in the fight.

I was simply offering you the same advice as Admiral Hopper might have. The very best advice on the specifics you might get here is still 2nd hand at best. Meanwhile, the place to find what you need is from the source.

Sorry if you can't arppreciate help that was asked for and graciously offered, and that your thin skin got bruised.

Gresp15C

I've installed SA systems on frames that had no cable stop. What I did was attach the cable housing to a chainstay or seatstay (have done it both ways) by wrapping some innertube rubber around the cable and frame, and securing them together with a small stainless steel hose clamp. This arrangement has held up for more than a decade on my commuting / shopping bike. You have to tighten it enough to prevent slippage, but bear in mind that there's not a lot of force involved.

Brennan

Well, I had finally noticed the line in your signature about not having a thin skin and all that. If that's they way you want to play it, so be it, But I'm going to take that as license to return such attitude, and I expect a thick skin in return. I would also remind you that I did like and thank your responses. If didn't meet the proper appreciation threshold, well sorry about that.

I did consider calling the vendor directly, but I was in the mood for a discussion, and so I went to this discussion forum, where I might get an answer, and might also get into a more in-depth discussion on this topic that's pretty new to me.

But if my question was such an annoyance to you, I have to wonder why you would respond at all? Honestly, I'd rather get no answer at all than take it with a dose of needless condescension, and my next step would have been to make that call to the vendor. But clearly I have a different concept of how to use a discussion forum than you do.

I have to say though, I'm really not surprised by your response. As you can see, I've been participating in this forum for quite a long time now, but really only sporadically. It's been years since I've been on here, and before I started posting again recently, I read through a number of threads on different subforums. And wow, the increase in needless hostility and condescension was palpable. I was seeing it all over the place. So my foray back in was also a bit of curiosity as to how little it would take to trigger such behavior. As I said, yours was impressive.

Anyway, I think I've learned all I need, and I've seen all I need to see for now. Maybe I'll check back in again in a few years and see if how the culture has changed again, or if this place is even still around. It seems like the traffic has gone down dramatically since my absence as well.

GamblerGORD53

I've bought mine at SJS Cycles in UK. They supply all the bits and cable too. You should consider getting extra dome nuts and the plastic spring caps.
And for SURE get a DRUM brake hub. The XL 90 mm one has quite a bit better stopping power. The brake will last 30,000 miles easily, but grease seepage along the axle is a feature needing some attention.
I have both routed on the seat stay. The clamp is going to be finicky to keep from slipping, simply because the tube is tapered. I have a hose clamp below it for security.
I also have my all my IGH shifters mounted on the top tube, with a DIY post.


I have 5,200 miles on this 1973 CCM 3 speed in 5 years. It goes down the highways as easy as pie. Dyad rims, 650B x 37 mm.

FBinNY 

I certainly won't miss you.

Consider, you came here asking for help and got it from strangers, out of the kindness of their hearts (including me).

In my second reply I tried to lay it out for you as straight and simply as possible, including the reason why. as follows:

Apparently being "accused" (if it's an accusation) of fretting was too much for you, and sent you into a lather. So, first you accuse me of being nasty (for lack of a better word), then finally extrapolate to disparaging everyone here on BF.

If I were your uncle I'd probably tell you to take a long hard look in the mirror, but I'm not and I'm sure you won't.
I don't own or speak for BF, nor for anyone else here, but at this point it seems appropriate to remind you not to let the door slam ........

Dan Burkhart 

My experience has been that when a SA hub ships with a shifter included in the box a cable, full length housing, fulcrum lever and/or fulcrum clip are included.
The fulcrum lever mounts to the axle and provides a place to install an adjuster barrel.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spar...sj905/?geoc=CA
They look a bit cludgy but work very well.
For a cleaner look, I prefer to use a fulcrum clip either on the seat stay for top tube routing or on the chain stay to route on the down tube.
I have used these clips on a number of builds to route full length housing along the frame tube. They look nice and work great.
https://cyclebabac.com/product/clipattache-3pcsbag/