After-Market Thru Axles (Levers)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
129 Posts
After-Market Thru Axles (Levers)
My bike came with thru axles that use a 6mm hex wrench to take off. I’m going to run multiple wheelsets, swapping them often, and was thinking it would be easier to have the type that have a lever (like a QR). But I’m struggling to find at online retailers (in Canada). Mine are 12x100, 12x142, 1.5mm thread pitch. Any suggestions?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,468
Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 339 Times
in
229 Posts
It probably would be easier to get a set of DT Swiss TA handles with a hex on the end. You can just leave them attached all of the time if you want to. That way you do not have to buy whole axles.
Likes For dwmckee:
#3
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,505
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3654 Post(s)
Liked 5,392 Times
in
2,737 Posts
I suggest you stay with the hex. There are a variety of TAs with levers attached and some of them are fiddly. I had one that was such a pain I ditched it for a RAP with just the hex. If you feel compelled to change, make sure you are satisfied with how the new one works before you buy.
Likes For shelbyfv:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,262
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 713 Post(s)
Liked 796 Times
in
473 Posts
Paragon Machine Works https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...polydrops.html and DT Swiss make the best thru axles with adjustable handles.
Thru axles are not as easy as just knowing the thread pitch and the axle standard, such as 100x12 and 142x12 with 1.5mm pitch. You need to know the overall length of the axle from the head to the end of the axle and the length of the threaded section, as well. Those marking should be on the axle.
Thru axles are not as easy as just knowing the thread pitch and the axle standard, such as 100x12 and 142x12 with 1.5mm pitch. You need to know the overall length of the axle from the head to the end of the axle and the length of the threaded section, as well. Those marking should be on the axle.
Likes For dsaul:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,843
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6935 Post(s)
Liked 10,940 Times
in
4,674 Posts
I suggest you stay with the hex. There are a variety of TAs with levers attached and some of them are fiddly. I had one that was such a pain I ditched it for a RAP with just the hex. If you feel compelled to change, make sure you are satisfied with how the new one works before you buy.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
129 Posts
Paragon Machine Works https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...polydrops.html and DT Swiss make the best thru axles with adjustable handles.
Thru axles are not as easy as just knowing the thread pitch and the axle standard, such as 100x12 and 142x12 with 1.5mm pitch. You need to know the overall length of the axle from the head to the end of the axle and the length of the threaded section, as well. Those marking should be on the axle.
Thru axles are not as easy as just knowing the thread pitch and the axle standard, such as 100x12 and 142x12 with 1.5mm pitch. You need to know the overall length of the axle from the head to the end of the axle and the length of the threaded section, as well. Those marking should be on the axle.
What had frustrated me with the existing ones was that when I inserted the hex key into the ‘head’ side and turn CCW to loosen, the head didn’t easily accept the hex key, had to jiggle it and then it engaged (has to insert it past that head, it wasn’t intuitive). That head, when the TA is removed spins freely. I don’t get that head end.
So I just removed them by inserting the hex key into the ‘other’ end and loosened CW, then tightens them CCW. That was much easier.
Is that how this style of TA is supposed to work?
The head end on the left by the specs
The other end that was easy to remove with a hex key (righty/loosy, lefty/tighy)
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,262
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 713 Post(s)
Liked 796 Times
in
473 Posts
I don't know about that particular brand of axle, but some of them are made to have a removeable handle that can stay attached to the axle. In order to keep the handle from falling out, they have some type of retention system inside the hex. Sometimes that is just an O-ring inside the hex that makes it difficult to get the handle/wrench in and out.