Triple front derailleur with low mounting bolt?
09-09-21, 07:04 AM
#26
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When I pulled the crank off last night to re-measure the BB spindle (it says 115,5 on it, but wanted to make sure that's what it was), I really should have measured that distance. Thought about it immediately after I'd put it back on because I could compare to my Concorde Aquila where the same FD sat square in the middle of the braze on to shift a similarly-sized crankset, but I'd just pulled it and didn't feel like doing it again. Probably could have used a stick or something to extend the bottom of the braze on out into space, but that didn't occur to me at the time. Measured from the top of the bb shell where the lugs stick out, the braze-on on my Concorde Aquila was about 1/8" higher than this problematic Colnago Super (there was more than 1/8" between the top of the slot of the braze on and the stud of the FD when it was on the Concorde, so I don't know what's going on), but the shells could be different thicknesses or extensions from the lug or something could be affecting my measurements.
1/8" is about 3 mm. That is a big difference.
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09-09-21, 07:44 AM
#27
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Looking at the picture you shown, I'm not sure filing it makes sense. I wonder if a slotted piece of metal that attaches to the tab and sticks out above would work better, or purchase a clamp with the proper diameter of the seat tube wouldn't work better.
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09-09-21, 09:06 AM
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Honestly, losing a little paint isn't something I'm worried about. I have some Testors paint that's a very good match for the color/metallic sparkle that I used to fill in a couple of small scratches that went down to the bare metal on this bike already. Or I could just do clear nail polish. I haven't seen too many FD braze ons rust even though the FD often bites through the paint anyway (I'm more concerned about preventing rust then cosmetics when I do paint touch ups).
09-09-21, 09:28 AM
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One option I've seen discussed (but have no experience with!) is to drill and tap a new mounting hole in the derailleur itself, below the existing one. That should raise the FD plenty.
09-09-21, 09:33 AM
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Would that involve grinding down the stud that is present? Not that I have drill press or a steady enough hand to feel confident trying it.
09-09-21, 09:40 AM
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09-09-21, 10:42 AM
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@ThermionicScott - It is a bolt. I have the same FD.
Just below the threaded hole on the other side is a stud used to pivot the lower arm. Don't know if it is a steel insert or not, likely.
P1030434 on Flickr
Just below the threaded hole on the other side is a stud used to pivot the lower arm. Don't know if it is a steel insert or not, likely.
P1030434 on Flickr
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Last edited by SJX426; 09-09-21 at 10:45 AM.
09-09-21, 10:55 AM
#33
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Oh wow, I guess I never looked closely at it from that angle. I'd thought it was a stud that was formed into the piece. Not sure how you could drill something lower there unless you could replace that lower pivot point.
09-09-21, 11:06 AM
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@ThermionicScott - It is a bolt. I have the same FD.
Just below the threaded hole on the other side is a stud used to pivot the lower arm. Don't know if it is a steel insert or not, likely.
P1030434 on Flickr
Just below the threaded hole on the other side is a stud used to pivot the lower arm. Don't know if it is a steel insert or not, likely.
P1030434 on Flickr
Perhaps in the other thread I was thinking about, they needed to mount it even lower, and there wasn't anything else to worry about at the top end of the mount.
09-09-21, 01:45 PM
#35
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I just stumbled upon this thing, meant to lower a FD, but might work upside down to raise? I knew something like this existed, but I had no idea what to call it in a search.
FD "lowerer" I would be insterested to hear if something like this would work!
FD "lowerer" I would be insterested to hear if something like this would work!
09-09-21, 02:07 PM
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I just stumbled upon this thing, meant to lower a FD, but might work upside down to raise? I knew something like this existed, but I had no idea what to call it in a search.
FD "lowerer" I would be insterested to hear if something like this would work!
FD "lowerer" I would be insterested to hear if something like this would work!
09-09-21, 02:32 PM
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09-09-21, 08:31 PM
#38
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Whelp, I solve one problem but create another. I ordered a microshift 9-speed triple front derailleur for a 52-42-30 crankset and the bolt (sorry, not sure what I was thinking when I was saying there was a stud sticking out of the FD, it's been a long day), must be lower relative to the pivot point because it can easily clear the teeth with a couple mm to spare at the top of the braze on (so height seems pretty good. Unfortunately, I can't get it to rotate to the point where the cages are parallel with the chainrings.
I noticed this a bit with a couple of other FDs I tried but didn't worry about it because the height was the more pressing issue.
Now that I've got the height I need, when I manually (by pushing down on the cable binding point) move it so that it shifts to the chain to the outer ring, by the time the front gets out far enough to have the chain fully on the outer ring, the inside plate at the tail of the cage is rubbing pretty hard on the inside of the ring.
Since I've seen this with a couple derailleurs, it's probably something about the shaping of the braze on. Some of them seem to have a more gentle curve so it's possible to slightly adjust the rotational angle of the FD. This one, is fairly deep and grabs the top of the FD pretty tightly. I don't know if trying a different curved washer would help or not.
Since getting the cage parallel has always been a challenge for me, I bought one of those campagnolo FD alignment tools where you put the tool on the chainring and align the outer plate of the cage with the white line, and it's way out of whack.
Not sure what to do here.
I noticed this a bit with a couple of other FDs I tried but didn't worry about it because the height was the more pressing issue.
Now that I've got the height I need, when I manually (by pushing down on the cable binding point) move it so that it shifts to the chain to the outer ring, by the time the front gets out far enough to have the chain fully on the outer ring, the inside plate at the tail of the cage is rubbing pretty hard on the inside of the ring.
Since I've seen this with a couple derailleurs, it's probably something about the shaping of the braze on. Some of them seem to have a more gentle curve so it's possible to slightly adjust the rotational angle of the FD. This one, is fairly deep and grabs the top of the FD pretty tightly. I don't know if trying a different curved washer would help or not.
Since getting the cage parallel has always been a challenge for me, I bought one of those campagnolo FD alignment tools where you put the tool on the chainring and align the outer plate of the cage with the white line, and it's way out of whack.
Not sure what to do here.
09-10-21, 07:27 AM
#39
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It looks like this or a bit worse:
but there just isn't the freedom of motion to turn it in the braze-on. I can push on it as I'm tightening it, but that just flexes the cage, which comes back after I stop pushing it.
but there just isn't the freedom of motion to turn it in the braze-on. I can push on it as I'm tightening it, but that just flexes the cage, which comes back after I stop pushing it.
