Vintage brake hoods are a pain in the rear
#1
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Vintage brake hoods are a pain in the rear
I'm wondering about alternatives to finding brake hoods that are almost impossible to
find and if you do find them they are way overpriced. I've been lucky enough to have
members on here either sell me what I need at a reasonable price and one member
even gifted me a set and refused to even let me compensate him for postage. Are
there newer levers that will work with the 80s shimano 600 calipers that are easier to
find hoods for or do you have to change the calipers also? One last question Is there
something I should treat the older hoods I have now to keep them from drying out and
make them last longer?
find and if you do find them they are way overpriced. I've been lucky enough to have
members on here either sell me what I need at a reasonable price and one member
even gifted me a set and refused to even let me compensate him for postage. Are
there newer levers that will work with the 80s shimano 600 calipers that are easier to
find hoods for or do you have to change the calipers also? One last question Is there
something I should treat the older hoods I have now to keep them from drying out and
make them last longer?
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I've been meaning to attempt to make some repro hoods.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ria-hoods.html
The Vittoria hoods above look like they were rather straight forward because the inner mold could be made as a cylinder. But, one should be able to expand on the technique.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ria-hoods.html
The Vittoria hoods above look like they were rather straight forward because the inner mold could be made as a cylinder. But, one should be able to expand on the technique.
#3
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#4
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If you mean 80’s Shimano 600 Tricolor levers, easiest thing is to buy 6403’s- the last brake lever version- and pickmup a couple sets of the easy to find, $15 or so brake hoods for them that are out there. Same hoods fit BLR600 levers, which were the last top of the line brake levers Shimano sold.
If you mean the previous iteration of Shimano 600 (non-aero 6207/6208), then Cane Creek brake hoods are a pretty good fit, come in black or brown.
Sadly, 6209 levers, as well as Exage, RX100, 105 and most all other Shimano brake levers, have very little replacement stock out there and it’s pricey & seldom properly described which makes it hard to determine exactly which lever body it’s intended to fit.
In the past year, a french eBay seller has started to sell repro hoods for a lot of earlier levers (I bought several pairs for my first gen Dura Ace levers) and they are pretty darn good.
If you mean the previous iteration of Shimano 600 (non-aero 6207/6208), then Cane Creek brake hoods are a pretty good fit, come in black or brown.
Sadly, 6209 levers, as well as Exage, RX100, 105 and most all other Shimano brake levers, have very little replacement stock out there and it’s pricey & seldom properly described which makes it hard to determine exactly which lever body it’s intended to fit.
In the past year, a french eBay seller has started to sell repro hoods for a lot of earlier levers (I bought several pairs for my first gen Dura Ace levers) and they are pretty darn good.
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#5
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If you mean 80’s Shimano 600 Tricolor levers, easiest thing is to buy 6403’s- the last brake lever version- and pickmup a couple sets of the easy to find, $15 or so brake hoods for them that are out there. Same hoods fit BLR600 levers, which were the last top of the line brake levers Shimano sold.
If you mean the previous iteration of Shimano 600 (non-aero 6207/6208), then Cane Creek brake hoods are a pretty good fit, come in black or brown.
Sadly, 6209 levers, as well as Exage, RX100, 105 and most all other Shimano brake levers, have very little replacement stock out there and it’s pricey & seldom properly described which makes it hard to determine exactly which lever body it’s intended to fit.
In the past year, a french eBay seller has started to sell repro hoods for a lot of earlier levers (I bought several pairs for my first gen Dura Ace levers) and they are pretty darn good.
If you mean the previous iteration of Shimano 600 (non-aero 6207/6208), then Cane Creek brake hoods are a pretty good fit, come in black or brown.
Sadly, 6209 levers, as well as Exage, RX100, 105 and most all other Shimano brake levers, have very little replacement stock out there and it’s pricey & seldom properly described which makes it hard to determine exactly which lever body it’s intended to fit.
In the past year, a french eBay seller has started to sell repro hoods for a lot of earlier levers (I bought several pairs for my first gen Dura Ace levers) and they are pretty darn good.
with a newer version with hoods work with the older caliper?
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I've been meaning to attempt to make some repro hoods.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ria-hoods.html
The Vittoria hoods above look like they were rather straight forward because the inner mold could be made as a cylinder. But, one should be able to expand on the technique.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ria-hoods.html
The Vittoria hoods above look like they were rather straight forward because the inner mold could be made as a cylinder. But, one should be able to expand on the technique.
But let's be honest about start up costs. The consumables for the silicone mold, polyurethane hoods syringes, mixing boats and mixing sticks will be a minimum of $250 and probably closer to $350. The minimum order will get you about 10 molds too many and about 30-40 sets of hoods. Granted, you need only 1 mold, but now you can do lots of different hoods.
If you don't have the hardware figure a minimum of $300 for the vacuum pump, chamber and scale. If you want good and not great, think closer to $600-$700.
For time, expect a minimum of 8 hours for the mold. If you have never done it before, figure a minimum of 2-3 attempts before it is right. Venting can be tricky sometimes. Then figure 30 minutes per pour per hood.
There is no doubt when I sell my hoods at $25/set plus shipping, many will whine about price. I wish you all the best of luck in life.
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#7
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Yes, the side action does not need to be cylindrical. Different hoods will create their own molding challenges.
But let's be honest about start up costs. The consumables for the silicone mold, polyurethane hoods syringes, mixing boats and mixing sticks will be a minimum of $250 and probably closer to $350. The minimum order will get you about 10 molds too many and about 30-40 sets of hoods. Granted, you need only 1 mold, but now you can do lots of different hoods.
If you don't have the hardware figure a minimum of $300 for the vacuum pump, chamber and scale. If you want good and not great, think closer to $600-$700.
For time, expect a minimum of 8 hours for the mold. If you have never done it before, figure a minimum of 2-3 attempts before it is right. Venting can be tricky sometimes. Then figure 30 minutes per pour per hood.
There is no doubt when I sell my hoods at $25/set plus shipping, many will whine about price. I wish you all the best of luck in life.
But let's be honest about start up costs. The consumables for the silicone mold, polyurethane hoods syringes, mixing boats and mixing sticks will be a minimum of $250 and probably closer to $350. The minimum order will get you about 10 molds too many and about 30-40 sets of hoods. Granted, you need only 1 mold, but now you can do lots of different hoods.
If you don't have the hardware figure a minimum of $300 for the vacuum pump, chamber and scale. If you want good and not great, think closer to $600-$700.
For time, expect a minimum of 8 hours for the mold. If you have never done it before, figure a minimum of 2-3 attempts before it is right. Venting can be tricky sometimes. Then figure 30 minutes per pour per hood.
There is no doubt when I sell my hoods at $25/set plus shipping, many will whine about price. I wish you all the best of luck in life.
#8
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Stumbled on this thread a few years ago, it's worth considering...
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ake-hoods.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ake-hoods.html
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#9
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Yes, the side action does not need to be cylindrical. Different hoods will create their own molding challenges.
But let's be honest about start up costs. The consumables for the silicone mold, polyurethane hoods syringes, mixing boats and mixing sticks will be a minimum of $250 and probably closer to $350. The minimum order will get you about 10 molds too many and about 30-40 sets of hoods. Granted, you need only 1 mold, but now you can do lots of different hoods.
If you don't have the hardware figure a minimum of $300 for the vacuum pump, chamber and scale. If you want good and not great, think closer to $600-$700.
For time, expect a minimum of 8 hours for the mold. If you have never done it before, figure a minimum of 2-3 attempts before it is right. Venting can be tricky sometimes. Then figure 30 minutes per pour per hood.
There is no doubt when I sell my hoods at $25/set plus shipping, many will whine about price. I wish you all the best of luck in life.
But let's be honest about start up costs. The consumables for the silicone mold, polyurethane hoods syringes, mixing boats and mixing sticks will be a minimum of $250 and probably closer to $350. The minimum order will get you about 10 molds too many and about 30-40 sets of hoods. Granted, you need only 1 mold, but now you can do lots of different hoods.
If you don't have the hardware figure a minimum of $300 for the vacuum pump, chamber and scale. If you want good and not great, think closer to $600-$700.
For time, expect a minimum of 8 hours for the mold. If you have never done it before, figure a minimum of 2-3 attempts before it is right. Venting can be tricky sometimes. Then figure 30 minutes per pour per hood.
There is no doubt when I sell my hoods at $25/set plus shipping, many will whine about price. I wish you all the best of luck in life.
I had intended to start the project a couple of years ago, but got stuck halfway. I need to get back on it.
The problem is that people are already making good repros for the big brands like Campy & Universal.
The smaller products are the ones that are left.
Shimano 600/DA AX?
It would be perfect for a hobby shop, but not for making lots of money.
#10
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I haven't tried lately, but I had no trouble finding reproduction hoods for 1960s Weinmann or DiaCompe brake levers, in white, gum, or black.
1959 Capo with Nervar Star crank and Campag. 980 derailleur upgrades and new Brooks Pro saddle.
My UO-8 with barcon cables routed between the rack and the cylindrical Bellwether front bag.
1959 Capo with Nervar Star crank and Campag. 980 derailleur upgrades and new Brooks Pro saddle.
My UO-8 with barcon cables routed between the rack and the cylindrical Bellwether front bag.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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I was unsuccessful in my attempts to get a reply from these guys. They make a zillion different rubber parts for vintage “bikes”
https://claussstudios.com/store/c15/Honda.html
I was going to send them NOS hoods to make molds. Maybe one of you motorcycle boys will have better luck.
https://claussstudios.com/store/c15/Honda.html
I was going to send them NOS hoods to make molds. Maybe one of you motorcycle boys will have better luck.
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#14
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You shimano people ... tsk tsk.
#15
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I thought I was lucky finding the Rustines half hood black replacements for my dried and crumbly 45 year old ones on some Mafac Racers. They look good but are thinner rubber and have been on the bike less than a year. I wear full finger gloves for protection in case I go down and didn't notice til recently that they're worn down enough for the metal inside to start showing through on one of them. Anyone else have this problem or know of some more heavy duty replacements?
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For Mafac 1/2 hoods, get the black heavy duty ones.
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Campy users should have a look at these:
1968-1982: https://lecycleur.com/campagnolo/cam...e-lever-hoods/
1984-1988: https://lecycleur.com/campagnolo/cam...e-lever-hoods/
Not cheap, but would be good to have a spare pair. Might send them an e-mail...
1968-1982: https://lecycleur.com/campagnolo/cam...e-lever-hoods/
1984-1988: https://lecycleur.com/campagnolo/cam...e-lever-hoods/
Not cheap, but would be good to have a spare pair. Might send them an e-mail...
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