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Gear change progression?

Old 08-12-20, 07:23 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by BoraxKid
Double-shifting is actually extremely easy to do on bikes equipped with downtube shifters. And on modern Di2 setups, it will double-shift for you in synchro mode. It's actually a very smart way to use all of your gears.
SRAM AXS 12 will do the same, but I put mine in a mode that shifts two sprockets, if I hold the shift lever button down. Combine a SRAM 10-36 cassette with a Campy Chorus 12 48/32 crank and you get a top gear that's like a 53/11 along with the 32/36 low. I call it the Sramanolo extra wide. It's got more range than a SRAM crank with only a 13T difference at the crank.
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Old 08-12-20, 10:01 AM
  #52  
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If someone new to cycling asks "where is the best place to buy solid rubber/non-pneumatic tires" he's not well served by the forum directing him to one of the several hucksters on ebay. Isn't it better to explain to him why he doesn't want what he thought he wanted? Anyway, OP has plenty of info now so over and out.
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Old 08-12-20, 11:08 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
SRAM AXS 12 will do the same, but I put mine in a mode that shifts two sprockets, if I hold the shift lever button down.
After numerous posts extolling the superiority of Chorus mechanical, you're now telling us that you're using SRAM AXS eTap?
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Old 08-12-20, 07:27 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by sovende
I stand by my reply. It suggests a way to sort out the gear combinations. Whether or not it's printed out and taped anywhere, is up to the OP. I have no idea as to the experience level of the OP. The forum join date, post count and question suggests someone relatively new to cycling (but perhaps not). There's also no indication as to the number of cogs on his bike but it does seem there are at least 2 chainrings up front. He could very well be riding a rehabed 20th century bike with a mere 5,6 or 7 cog freewheel/cassette. I'll admit that a gear chart with 22 entries (20 if you removed the cross chain values) would clearly be too much. And yes, border on if not enter the realm of ridiculous. IMHO, that also applies to 11 cog cassettes too!
To all that thought the use of a gear calculator was humorous, go back and re-read (or perhaps read for the first time) the thread starter. Then read the rest of the replies and ask yourself if your reply actually answered the OP's question.

I am new to the forum, but not to biking. I used to bike a lot in the 80s and 90s with my Peugeot PRN10, but then took a hiatus. Earlier this year I bought two bikes, a Trek Emonda ALR 5 Disc, then a Trek FX2 Disc. The FX2 kept me slowed down so that my wife got less far behind me. She is the spinning/fitness girl and I am merely the out of shape slob . I use the FX2 mostly because it is sort of like a high-speed commuter/grocery getter.

I was looking at the gear progressions on my FX2 (three chainrings up front and eight sprockets in back) because it would irk me, mostly on hills, when I would transition to what I thought should be the next lowest or highest gear when changing chainrings up front. I did the calculations on the Sheldon Brown site, thinking that there would be one or two combinations I could skip, but it did not end up being that simple, so I am just going to continue what I was doing, working up or down, gear by gear. Maybe the calculations will show something different with my Emonda, something that will give me a better progression. It only has two chainrings up front.

Danny
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Old 08-12-20, 07:32 PM
  #55  
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Gear changes are simple.

Small chainring for climbing and head wind.
Large chainring for flats, tailwind and descending.

Use the rear cogs to adjust faster or easier.

Done.

If you think you'll be jumping all over the place to run the gears sequential... you're nutz.
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Old 08-12-20, 08:47 PM
  #56  
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Pedal bike. Go by feel. Shift as needed. That's it.
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Old 08-12-20, 08:51 PM
  #57  
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I run a half step 18 speed, 48x45 and a 12x36 9 speed. I run up and down on the rear and occasionally shift the front to keep a comfortable spinning rate. It has 18 non-duplicated gears.
I also run a half step 30 speed, 49x46x30 and a 11x36 and I ride this the same way, up and down the rear and change the front as needed and the 30 gives me a nice bailout.




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Old 08-12-20, 09:02 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by bwilli88
I run a half step 18 speed, 48x45 and a 12x36 9 speed. I run up and down on the rear and occasionally shift the front to keep a comfortable spinning rate.
Doesn't it kind of defeat the purpose of half-step gearing if you only shift the front occasionally?
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Old 08-12-20, 09:08 PM
  #59  
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If the road ahead goes from __ to a long and steep /, go ahead and preemptively put it in the small ring.

If the road ahead goes from __ to \, wait until you spin out.

If the road ahead goes from / to \, spin over the top whilst saving a bit of juice, then demoralize your compatriots with a nice loud upshift. Chainring or cog, doesn't matter.

A very special thing is when the road goes from \ to /, calling for a perfectly timed and well executed double shift. It is a thing of beauty and grace.
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Old 08-13-20, 08:13 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Doesn't it kind of defeat the purpose of half-step gearing if you only shift the front occasionally?
No, it is a different way of running a half step. Back in the day the half step gave 10 or 12 usable gears with a wider ratio rear. I am sure they would do the same thing run up or down the rear and then use the front to set their cadence.
I feel that going up or down each time in the true progression of gears is a waste of shifting, once up to the speed you want to ride at, adjust the gearing to be a comfortable pace.
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Old 08-13-20, 08:35 AM
  #61  
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A simple box grid can be made, with the numbers (gear-inches, typically) & put on your top tube as a reminder..
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Old 08-13-20, 09:33 AM
  #62  
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Front ring is used to select range. It doesn't move much. Rear is to fine tune your cadence. Don't overthink it.
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Old 08-13-20, 10:18 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by kaiserschmarrn
I am new to the forum, but not to biking. I used to bike a lot in the 80s and 90s with my Peugeot PRN10, but then took a hiatus. Earlier this year I bought two bikes, a Trek Emonda ALR 5 Disc, then a Trek FX2 Disc. The FX2 kept me slowed down so that my wife got less far behind me. She is the spinning/fitness girl and I am merely the out of shape slob . I use the FX2 mostly because it is sort of like a high-speed commuter/grocery getter.

I was looking at the gear progressions on my FX2 (three chainrings up front and eight sprockets in back) because it would irk me, mostly on hills, when I would transition to what I thought should be the next lowest or highest gear when changing chainrings up front. I did the calculations on the Sheldon Brown site, thinking that there would be one or two combinations I could skip, but it did not end up being that simple, so I am just going to continue what I was doing, working up or down, gear by gear. Maybe the calculations will show something different with my Emonda, something that will give me a better progression. It only has two chainrings up front.

Danny
Your Trek has a pretty sensible and versatile 48/38/28 front triple and an 11-32 8 speed rear (11,13,15,18,21,24,28,32 cogs).

You could use the middle chainring quite a bit and mostly adjust the rear derailleur throughout its range.

Alternatively, you can shift to the small chainring once you have moved to, say the 21 or 24 in the rear and then shift to larger rear cogs as needed on steep hills.

Similarly, you could shift to the large chainring for downhills once you are using the 15 in the rear and then to the 13 or 11 if needed on steep downhills.

Both approaches are ok. The first one may seem less annoying if you don’t like shifting chainrings.

The second approach has the advantage of maintaining better chain line and making the chainring shift first so that the timing of any additional shifts as you are really getting into the steeper part of the hill will only involve the rear derailleur that has smaller steps and shifts more easily and quickly.

Otto
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Old 08-13-20, 10:23 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by c_m_shooter
Front ring is used to select range. It doesn't move much. Rear is to fine tune your cadence. Don't overthink it.
It couldn't possibly be that simple, could it?
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Old 08-13-20, 03:41 PM
  #65  
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I never realized riding a bike was this complicated.
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Old 08-15-20, 08:12 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
A simple box grid can be made, with the numbers (gear-inches, typically) & put on your top tube as a reminder..
Hold on folks, since I'm not seeing any cutesy emojis or quote marks and have yet to see any snarky replies, I'm assuming that a high post count lends amazing street cred to the above reply.
When I posted essentially the same suggestion in a bit more detail, I was totally skewered by several others!
Whisky Tango whatever?



Last edited by sovende; 08-15-20 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 08-15-20, 09:18 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by sovende
When I posted essentially the same suggestion in a bit more detail, I was totally skewered by several others!
Whisky Tango whatever?
The only thing worse than repeating that suggestion would be repeating the jokes skewering the suggestion.
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Old 08-15-20, 12:31 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by sovende
Hold on folks, since I'm not seeing any cutesy emojis or quote marks and have yet to see any snarky replies, I'm assuming that a high post count lends amazing street cred to the above reply.https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6c91033d78.jpg
Actually I think the existence of "ignore" lists would account for the lack of responses to that post. Pro looking chart, nevertheless!
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Old 08-15-20, 03:41 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
After numerous posts extolling the superiority of Chorus mechanical, you're now telling us that you're using SRAM AXS eTap?
The superiority of Campy 12 mechanical groups is in the cost. I paid $1060 each for Chorus 12 groups, last July. Even after a large price drop from $1650 to $1050 for a 4-piece Force build kit, that's the price for an entire 8 piece Chorus 12 group. I wanted to experiment with the SRAM AXS 10-36 cassette, so I first installed it on my Chorus 12 bike and it worked perfectly. Then I notice some large price reductions on the Force AXS shifters, RD and FD kit, so I decided to jump in, just for something to do.

Now I have two bikes with Sramanolo groups. Both use Campy Chorus 48/32 cranks and brakes, with Zonda wheels. The rest is SRAM Force AXS. One bike has the SRAM 10-36 cassette and the other still has the Campagnolo 11-34 cassette. Either cassette can be used with either brand of drivetrain. The only thing I haven't tried is a Campy 12 chain with SRAM AXS. I've been alternating between Campy and SRAM chains for over a year and the SRAM AXS is the quietest.

I've already sold off the leftover parts from one Chorus group for $450, so the cost to make the change was only $600.

It is taking me awhile to get used to the new shift levers, after 25 years on Campy. Only two buttons do the work of two Campy levers and and two thumb buttons. I was surprised that the Force brake hoods are actually smaller than Campy hoods and have a nearly identical reach. Great for my small hands.
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