Anyone Have a Windsor Wellington 4.0?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Anyone Have a Windsor Wellington 4.0?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/323583222968159/
Is this bike ok for 30-40 mile tours? It's aluminum frame with carbon forks. Shimano Tourney group which is obviously not the greatest. I could get it for $140 or should I hold out for better? I have $280 to spend so obviously I need to buy used or vintage.
Is this bike ok for 30-40 mile tours? It's aluminum frame with carbon forks. Shimano Tourney group which is obviously not the greatest. I could get it for $140 or should I hold out for better? I have $280 to spend so obviously I need to buy used or vintage.
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,984
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6191 Post(s)
Liked 4,807 Times
in
3,316 Posts
You really need to know what gear ratios you'll need for your riding conditions on those 30 to 40 mile rides. On flat terrain, you might be okay with a narrow range of gears. On rolling terrain, you'll probably want more gearing range. And if you are climbing up the side of a mountain for quite a few of those miles you'll want to have a good selection of low gears.
That appears to be a 3x crank, so you probably will have the range of gearing you need for most anything on the road. But if you get to looking at bikes with more gears on the rear, then you might find more 2x bikes and then you really need to consider your range of gearing on that bike.
How do you know what you need? Well you have to ride them and find out. So experience helps.
The most important part of buying a bike is make certain it fits you. That appears to be a small frame and if you are a 6 foot tall person and aren't use to big drop in bar height from saddle, then it won't be something you can easily make fit you without ridiculous looking stems and extenders.
That appears to be a 3x crank, so you probably will have the range of gearing you need for most anything on the road. But if you get to looking at bikes with more gears on the rear, then you might find more 2x bikes and then you really need to consider your range of gearing on that bike.
How do you know what you need? Well you have to ride them and find out. So experience helps.
The most important part of buying a bike is make certain it fits you. That appears to be a small frame and if you are a 6 foot tall person and aren't use to big drop in bar height from saddle, then it won't be something you can easily make fit you without ridiculous looking stems and extenders.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. My last bike was a Nashbar Single-speed. It was tough on the hills but doable for me I guess. I'm 5'10 but my legs are short. I wear 30 length pants. The bike was a hair shy of 56 according to the seller. I was worried about the derailleurs. I had Sora on my last aluminum giant road bike and I wasn't thrilled with it. Seemed like one or two gears in the middle were always noisy and shifting to the highest gear was hit or miss. This was AFTER I took it to my LBS for adjustment!
actually it might have been Claris. I dunno it was a while ago
actually it might have been Claris. I dunno it was a while ago
#4
Senior Member
5 years ago, I bought one of these from Bikes Direct for a relative who was just getting into road cycling. I cost about $400, but with somewhat better components.
Nevertheless, it was a great bike when tuned up, and was as good as a starter bike as anyone needs. Ergonomically, STI shifters with the inside buttons are my favorites, and the external shifter cable routing is superior to the under the wrap routing, due to less friction and smoother cable runs. Triple cranksets are also immensely sensible, as they eliminate the need for pie-plate rear cogs. You do not want anything 1 x or 'boost' or 'gravel endurance' any such trendy silliness.
Looks like the bike is in good condition, and this is a great price, particularly now. If you were to walk into any bike shop anywhere in my city, and ask for a 'road bike', they'd just chuckle, mutter something about 'supply chain issues', and move you out the door. There are no new road bikes for sale.
Of course, the bike will need a complete look-over from a good mechanic prior to riding. If the bike has been used over any distances, assume it needs a new chain. While you're at it, replace all of the cables and housings. If you experience any shifting problems, it will be due to these, and not any inherent limitation in the equipment.
Nevertheless, it was a great bike when tuned up, and was as good as a starter bike as anyone needs. Ergonomically, STI shifters with the inside buttons are my favorites, and the external shifter cable routing is superior to the under the wrap routing, due to less friction and smoother cable runs. Triple cranksets are also immensely sensible, as they eliminate the need for pie-plate rear cogs. You do not want anything 1 x or 'boost' or 'gravel endurance' any such trendy silliness.
Looks like the bike is in good condition, and this is a great price, particularly now. If you were to walk into any bike shop anywhere in my city, and ask for a 'road bike', they'd just chuckle, mutter something about 'supply chain issues', and move you out the door. There are no new road bikes for sale.
Of course, the bike will need a complete look-over from a good mechanic prior to riding. If the bike has been used over any distances, assume it needs a new chain. While you're at it, replace all of the cables and housings. If you experience any shifting problems, it will be due to these, and not any inherent limitation in the equipment.
#5
Senior Member
One more thing: remove the top cap from the stem; it looks like too many spacers have been installed in an attempt to raise the bars. If you need higher bars, first flip the stem. Second, buy a stem with more rise. Next, if you need more rise than this, then you need a different bike.
Last bike I worked on, the stem was held onto the steerer tube with only 5mm of engagement. My fellow mechanics huddled around me awestruck that the rider had survived riding like this, without ending up in the ER or worse.
Last bike I worked on, the stem was held onto the steerer tube with only 5mm of engagement. My fellow mechanics huddled around me awestruck that the rider had survived riding like this, without ending up in the ER or worse.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
If it fits you, $140 seems like a good deal. The Tourney stuff isn't going to last for decades, but almost new alum frame and carbon fork for $140 is a good deal.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chapel Hill NC
Posts: 1,683
Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Vortex Chorus 10, 1995 DeBernardi Cromor S/S
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 645 Post(s)
Liked 797 Times
in
446 Posts
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/323583222968159/
Is this bike ok for 30-40 mile tours? It's aluminum frame with carbon forks. Shimano Tourney group which is obviously not the greatest. I could get it for $140 or should I hold out for better? I have $280 to spend so obviously I need to buy used or vintage.
Is this bike ok for 30-40 mile tours? It's aluminum frame with carbon forks. Shimano Tourney group which is obviously not the greatest. I could get it for $140 or should I hold out for better? I have $280 to spend so obviously I need to buy used or vintage.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
There are also two late 80's steel bikes for sale near me.
One is a 1987 Schwinn Circuit for $200 the other is a Cannondale SR with Shimano 105 group for $150. Any reason to check those out first? I can post links and pics.
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/b...423270039.html
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/b...424693299.html
The Schwinn has a cool-to-me factor that I like but it's steel so I'm guessing heavier plus it's 75 miles from me so there's the hassle factor plus it costs more.
One is a 1987 Schwinn Circuit for $200 the other is a Cannondale SR with Shimano 105 group for $150. Any reason to check those out first? I can post links and pics.
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/b...423270039.html
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/b...424693299.html
The Schwinn has a cool-to-me factor that I like but it's steel so I'm guessing heavier plus it's 75 miles from me so there's the hassle factor plus it costs more.
Last edited by RoadWearier; 01-12-22 at 05:41 PM.
#10
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,526
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3661 Post(s)
Liked 5,408 Times
in
2,747 Posts
You may have forgotten but you asked about that Cannondale last month. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...cent-bike.html It's still head and shoulders above the Windsor or the Motobecane you asked about in yesterday's thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...erts-here.html. The Circuit has potential as well. Strangely, these bikes are quite a variety of sizes. Do you truly not know what size bike you need?
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I know I ask a lot about bikes that's why this site is such a great resource. The Cannondale and Windsor are both 56cm. I'm 5'10 1/2 with a measured inseam of about 34 inches. The Schwinn is 23 inches, I guess you are correct that might be a little big. Thought maybe I could make it work. I'm still waiting for the Motobecane seller to get back to me on size so I'm not sure how you know what size it is. If you do have that knowledge I'm curious to know how you obtained it.
That said, that's interesting you think the Canondale is better. Is it because of the 105 group? I guess Im just superficial and just don't love the color. How dumb is that, right? Plus I don't know how much I will like the weird biopace crankset but I've actually heard it can help noobs. Maybe I'd like it who knows. Ok maybe maybe I'll go with the Canondale. Hell maybe I'll buy them both now that I'm working again
That said, that's interesting you think the Canondale is better. Is it because of the 105 group? I guess Im just superficial and just don't love the color. How dumb is that, right? Plus I don't know how much I will like the weird biopace crankset but I've actually heard it can help noobs. Maybe I'd like it who knows. Ok maybe maybe I'll go with the Canondale. Hell maybe I'll buy them both now that I'm working again
#12
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,526
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3661 Post(s)
Liked 5,408 Times
in
2,747 Posts
The Cannondales of that era were top tier, premium priced bikes. The frames were the same for all component levels, so that 105 bike has the same potential as one that was originally Dura Ace, for example. They are worthy of any upgrade. Search the C&V section for bikes rccardr has built up. For example https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...onal-ride.html I wouldn't be interested in the Moto at any price, it's just a low end frame with low end old components. The Circuit could be a nice bike but looks more like a 58 or 60, too large for you. You can hardly go wrong with the C'dale, IMO.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,371
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2482 Post(s)
Liked 2,952 Times
in
1,677 Posts
The Windsor frame is likely fine. And the presence of the carbon fork demonstrates that it's not a "low-end" bike.
Bikes Direct's business is based on the canny exploitation of the fact that once a company such as Fuji moves on to a new frame design for a given model, the factory can continue to produce the frame for other companies, such as Bikes Direct.
I bought a higher-end Motobecane from them a number of years ago, and I've been completely satisfied with it since the day I bought it. As someone who ran service departments in local bike shops for years, I can attest to the high quailty of the bike I received.
Bikes Direct's business is based on the canny exploitation of the fact that once a company such as Fuji moves on to a new frame design for a given model, the factory can continue to produce the frame for other companies, such as Bikes Direct.
I bought a higher-end Motobecane from them a number of years ago, and I've been completely satisfied with it since the day I bought it. As someone who ran service departments in local bike shops for years, I can attest to the high quailty of the bike I received.
#14
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,526
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3661 Post(s)
Liked 5,408 Times
in
2,747 Posts
^^^I'm sorry, carbon fork or not, it doesn't get any lower end than a Tourney group. At least so far as actual bike parts that the mfg is willing to claim with a name. Plus that bike is too small for OP.
#15
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,526
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3661 Post(s)
Liked 5,408 Times
in
2,747 Posts
Here's another C'dale for inspiration. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-gorgeous.html
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok. Canondale it is then! Thanks! I thought the Windsor being a hair under 56cm would be ok but maybe you are right. The Tourney is a little worrying. I had Clarus on my last aluminum road bike and it was no fun. They were noisy, missed shifts and even after two hours and a trip to the bike shop the rear derailleur used to grind in the middle gears for some reason. Doesn't necessarily mean that would happen with this bike but...