SoulAmazing

bump cause this killed me

Also bump cause so many 🔥 in the last couple years.

SoulAmazing

My first CAAD an tri sports aero with 650c wheels. Quick but outdated.

Current Roller/training bike.
CAAD10 Testing out the new to me chainrings.

Rode in Tijuana Mex.

the sci guy 

No real progress on my build yet - just gushing over how much I love this frame. I ordered the new BB, and will be ordering a Thomson seatpost clamp and probably a Cane Creek 40 headset this week.


Also I love how light these frames are. I weighed the fork separately and that was ~1lb, so total frame/fork is 3.8 lbs which, as a non-weight-weenie guy who rides vintage steel bikes, I think that's pretty rad!

fishyfishy123

Hey, I think I just got the same Caad10 on craig's list - same paint job at least. Mine is aluminum frame/carb fork w/ 105 shifting and Tektro brakes. If that's yours, how do you like it? Anything tips about the bike you'd pass on?

SoulAmazing

Hey man nice pick up! My fav paint scheme on the caad10 no bias there. Lol just mine is the ultegra groupset. I did alright I think at 500 .

I would say ride it man and you'll see what you need to add to it. I went with changing the gearing front and back. Just got a cf seatpost and bought some carbon wheels.

Quick bike make sure brakes can stop ya.

fishyfishy123

500 sounds great! Mine was 400, so I'd say yours was the better deal - these wheels were newer and a bit better than originals, I think, so there's some consolation there. Portland, OR is tight used bike market, so I was happy with price. I'm actually excited for the compact gearing. I've got a gravel bike that has some cushy 47c slicks for road with lots of easy gearing and an old steel frame 12 speed with 52/42, so the classic compact is a nice fit in the middle.

SoulAmazing

yeah those wheels look nice and light. ! I'd say we both did great . Sweet , i deff would like to make it up there to ride in some cool weather . Steel is real!

The compact was great while I had it but I came across a standard crank that I liked and dedicated this as my training bike ! I'll be checking in to see if you update any pics and I will upload some of mine with the upgrades.👍🏼

Welshboy

My 2012 CAADX 6.

I've had this for about 16 months now but as soon as I bought it I stripped it right down and parked it up for ages before re-building it with a new FSA chainset, a new SRAM chain and also new Shimano BR-CX50 cantilever brakes. The original Tiagra transmission is in good shape but the original wheels and tyres were shot so I've slotted in some old RS010 wheels with 25C Conti Ultrasport tyres for now but will switch to fatter tyres real soon. I've ridden it on my short commutes this week and really like it but whilst my original plan was to put fenders on it I'm not too sure now.

fishyfishy123

Looks great! How big of tires are you hoping to squeeze in there?

Welshboy

I've just fitted 35C Schwalbe CX Comp tyres in there on the same rims. There's loads of space left but I'm hoping the 35C's will be a good compromise for my commute.


Fresh off the trails!

Hmmm

Bikepacking on my CAAD3.

ussprinceton

I sold 2 of my CAAD10s. One of my brothers have 1 left. I switched over to Specialized

SoulAmazing

very cool to see some CX cannondale and bikepacking . !

Very sorry for your loss for moving onto specialized .

Also update. New carbon seatpost/cf wheels . Excited to ride outside with new, to me standard crank.

ussprinceton

this is the one my brother still has

fishyfishy123

Nice setup! You can tackle almost anything with that.

jamesdak 

I guess I can share mine here also.

Original notes on the bike after picking it up last year:
After finding out how nice my Klein rides I just had to find a Cannondale to try. As a lover of patriotic paint schemes a short ad with only 2 pictures caught my eye. This one was about an hour away so I went yesterday morning and made a deal with the owner. Seemed to be in really good shape, just dirty. His understanding was that it was a team bike of some sort. It does have a "R" serial number which makes it a 2006 I guess. It's also got the 55 cm size label on it yet the catalog shows 54 and 56 so I don't know if that means anything. I measured 54.6 CTC top tube but only a 52.1 ctc seat tube? Yet stand over is a tad over 80 cm. It also has the Premium+ fork on it which I didn't see on the CAAD8's in the catalog. I went over every inch of it as I wiped it down but I don't see any real marks in the paint and no dings. Mechanically it's all working well and seems to be pretty much tuned in. The one shifter feels a little gummy but normally a flush with WD-40 and relube with Triflow sorts that out. The seller did throw in a really nice set of Dura Ace 10 speed levers because the one on there is a bit sticky. It's running an Ultegra compact crank now with Ultegra RD and 105 FD. I think the calipers are 105 too but I'll check the number as I clean it up. SRAM PG-1070 12-26 cassette with a SRAM chain. Mavik Kyserium SSC SL wheels with Vittoria Open Corsa CX tires in size 700 x 25. Looks like clearance for a bit larger tire in the front if wanted but probably not in the rear. Limited clearance by the brake bridge. FSA seatpost and stem with Ritchey bars and a blue/grey Fizik Arione saddle. As in the picture when I got it the bike weighed 17 lbs 10 ozs on my digital scale. Once I cleaned it up, swapped in my Look Keo pedals and pulled off the funky bottle cage it weighed 17 lbs 4 ozs. Should get in a bit of a test ride today but I'm still dealing with jacked up lungs from the western fires. So if I do go out I won't be able to give it a full pace test.

This is how I brought it home before even wiping it down.


And as it sit's this morning waiting to go for a ride. Lot's of parts upgrades and a light CF Tubular wheelset has it at 16 lbs even.


Getting it ready for today's ride.

Not bad for something still running a lot of alloy parts.

More detailed shots from it's earlier configuration:








I've never really run down the origin of the paint on this. I did find one other example on the internet like it. I did some research and found that the Orange County Wheelman have/had a Paramount Racing Team and in 2006 Cannondale was a sponsor. I emailed the current president of OCW about the bike but never got a response.

the sci guy 

gorgeous bike. Very similar to my 2001 R1000 Caad4. Love that frame design. I ran into the same problem with the rear tire though - I had a rude awakening when trying to fit on my 700x28 Panaracer Pasaleas. Talked to a guy at my shop that is a collector of these era bikes and says that stupid bulge in the brake bridge restricts tires to like a 25/26 max - which is so disappointing for such an otherwise incredibly amazing frame design.

SoSmellyAir

After helping the sci guy choose some contemporary alloy wheels for his R1000, my interest in a R1000 project bike has been piqued too! Someone near me is selling this size 54 (year unknown) for $780 (without posting a single drive side photo) which has been turned into an urban bike. Did early models of the CAAD R1000 come with quill stems!? Is this legit? How much is this bike worth?

Robert A

Does anyone sell new CAAD12 framesets? I am looking for a size 52 in almost any color besides black.

the sci guy 

The R-series switched from 1" threaded to threadless in 2000. If I had to guess it's a 1999 that's been repainted and had modern decals added. The shape of the fork is mostly what I'm going on for a 1999 - it's a little more bladed and flares ever so slightly behind the headtube/headset than the 1998 models. I don't see an R1000 in the 1997 catalog, and in 1996 was the last year they had those ugly extended rear dropouts. The 1997 R900 maybe has a similar fork, but the only other way to see is if this person kept the original 8-speed, because the 1999 is a 9-speed.
FYI, in 1999 the Slice carbon fork was used all the way down the line to the R500, so without the original paint scheme, we're just taking this guy at his word.

SoSmellyAir

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Do you have the reach and stack numbers for your frame?

OK. My preference is for a threadless steerer and headset, so I may have to keep looking.

That was my assumption as well given that the paint looks pretty good for a bike old enough to have a quill stem. I suppose a decent automotive body shop can do a good job painting an aluminum bike frame?

Yes, no way to ascertain without the original paint scheme and R1000 decal. The bike does not have a FD, so it is certainly possible that the current drivetrain is not original.

the sci guy 

Yeah I searched for almost 2 1/2 years for my 2000 R1000 - both the model year, colorway, and frame size. I'm short so finding a 52 is hard.
I had found a 1999 R1000 that I didn't want to pay the asking price for & regretted passing on it for almost a year straight - but then I found the frame I really wanted and I don't regret it anymore obviously lol

I did buy an 1999 R300 the year before, rebuild it with flat bars, then swapped for drops again to sell it - I made it a 1x8 as well.



You can find the geometry of the 2000 models here: 2000.pdf (https://vintagecannondale.com/year/2...cannondale.com) (page 62, 2nd box down)
It's not the best scan so the numbers are a little hard to read.

SoSmellyAir

Nice!

I guess this is before the industry invented reach and stack? How do I compare this to my current bike, even if I can make out the numbers?

the sci guy 

Yeah I think sizing was a little more loosey-goosey back then - bike fitting has probably become a lot more technical these days. I think the best you can do is look at the top tube & seat tube lengths and make the best guestimate - espeically if you know about what size you should be.
I was riding a 52 Specialized Roubaix (2016), and the numbers were similar enough to the size 52 on the R1000. I think I probably should have a 50 for the R1000, but the odds of me finding one still in existence is near zero, so I'll make a 52 fit, like I did with the R300.

mstateglfr 

As mentioned, stack and reach were not measurements at the turn of the century. Heck they really werent even common 10 years ago. Even 5 years ago those measurements were not included on some bike sites.

If you want a threadless steerer, then buy an innicycle headset. It was created and is sold by a forum member and is an excellent bit of engineering. The quality is super high, just as nice as any headset you can buy, and it converts the bike to effectively run a threadless stem. It looks clean and integrated, so it doesnt make it look like some kludged together hack.