Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-18-21, 12:56 AM
  #1  
John_E
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

I have an xtr di2 setup that I really like. I have an 11-42T cassette on it which can be limiting at very steep terrain. I also don't want to change the chainring so I was wondering if it is possible to make something like sunrace 11 speed 11-50T to work nicely with my setup.

I can also go 11-46 but I think it wouldn't be much better than 11-42t.

Any thoughts, suggestions welcome.
John_E is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 09:17 AM
  #2  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
Medium or long cage? Not that it matters, Shimano spec both derailleurs for a 46t max cog. The long cage actually wraps enough chain so you might be able to use a Wolftooth link, but the shifting in the smaller cogs will probably suffer.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 10:36 AM
  #3  
John_E
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by cxwrench
Medium or long cage? Not that it matters, Shimano spec both derailleurs for a 46t max cog. The long cage actually wraps enough chain so you might be able to use a Wolftooth link, but the shifting in the smaller cogs will probably suffer.
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
John_E is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 11:36 AM
  #4  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,842

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2337 Post(s)
Liked 2,821 Times in 1,540 Posts
Originally Posted by John_E
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
that seems pretty big for a modern set up (BITD of 42/52 or 39/53 the rear was often 13-26/28), I know you stated that you don't want to change it out but the may be the simplest. Do you really use 52/11 and go close to 30mph at 80 rpm (which is what it works out to)?
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)



squirtdad is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 12:33 PM
  #5  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
52 is HUGE for a 1X. Change the chainring to something smaller and learn how to pedal.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 05:22 PM
  #6  
John_E
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by squirtdad
that seems pretty big for a modern set up (BITD of 42/52 or 39/53 the rear was often 13-26/28), I know you stated that you don't want to change it out but the may be the simplest. Do you really use 52/11 and go close to 30mph at 80 rpm (which is what it works out to)?
Thanks, I agree that decreasing front chainring would be simple but I have reasons to keep that large chainring. The best scenario is actually to convert a 2x system, having both the range and a straight chainline but for now that is not an option.

Originally Posted by cxwrench
52 is HUGE for a 1X. Change the chainring to something smaller and learn how to pedal.
Come on man, spare me these kind of comments.
John_E is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 06:42 PM
  #7  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
Originally Posted by John_E
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
What difference does the size of the chainring make?
cxwrench is offline  
Old 05-18-21, 10:24 PM
  #8  
John_E
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by cxwrench
What difference does the size of the chainring make?
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
John_E is offline  
Old 05-19-21, 05:40 AM
  #9  
tomtomtom123
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,064
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 122 Times in 90 Posts
Originally Posted by John_E
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
I Don't think reducing the size of the chainring would significantly change the distance between the Rd jockey and the bottom of the chainring If you shorten the chain by half the number of change in teeth.
tomtomtom123 is offline  
Old 05-19-21, 02:31 PM
  #10  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,842

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2337 Post(s)
Liked 2,821 Times in 1,540 Posts
Originally Posted by John_E
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
not sure it works that way the slack is the slack.

I have pushed shimano 2 teeth past limit (older 7400 with friction) with no problem, 4 seems to be a big push.

What I have no insight to is how di2 will handle this? That could really be the kicker.

I don't understand the need for 52 up front, even wolf link suggests much smaller

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...x-gravel-setup

quoted
  • We found that 40T front chainrings work great for the rolling hills in Minnesota
    • 42T or 44T if you need more top end speed
    • 36T or 38T if you want a smaller climbing gear
  • Most people over gear and select too big of a chainring. At a cadence of 100, your top pedaling speeds are as follows
    • 44 x 11 = 33 mph or 53 kph
    • 42 x 11 = 32 mph or 50 kph
    • 40 x 11 = 30 mph or 48 kph
    • 38 x 11 = 29 mph or 46 kph
    • Top speed numbers are from our gear charts and the 650b x 2.2 tire numbers are quoted above as that is roughly equivalent to a CX size tire. Bigger tires would be about 1mph/1.5kph faster
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)



squirtdad is offline  
Old 05-19-21, 03:23 PM
  #11  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
As squirtdad posted the size of the ring doesn't matter...the slack is the same no matter.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 05-20-21, 01:58 AM
  #12  
John_E
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by tomtomtom123
I Don't think reducing the size of the chainring would significantly change the distance between the Rd jockey and the bottom of the chainring If you shorten the chain by half the number of change in teeth.
I can't say if the change will be significant but distance increases while number of excess links stay the same, so the way I see it it should make it a bit easier. But I may be wrong.

That being said there are times that I actually use my current combination, especially downhill. Ideally a second chainring of size around 30T would have solved my problem but I don't want to deal with changing my crankset yet/ adding a front derailleur if possible.
John_E is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.