Handcycle traction improvement
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Handcycle traction improvement
Greetings all. I initially posted this in the adaptive cycling/handcycle forum, but it looks like it might fit in here and reach different viewers here. A little background on me to help explain my question. I'm paralyzed from the waist down for 31 years now. Using a wheelchair for that long has started taking its toll on my body, so I'm taking steps (no pun intended) to get in better shape and hopefully extend my time on this awesome planet. I've started lifting weights again after a 20 year layoff from it. I decided I needed to do something for cardio, too, and started looking into handcycles. After a lot of research, I found a used one and bought it. I've come to love it in the short time I've had it. I should have done this years ago! It's admittedly oriented toward cruising, not high performance. It's an Action brand, Top End model. As near as I can tell, the Top End brand started out as a model made by Action. For reference, this one is nearly identical to the current Top End Excelerator.
My only issue is that it spins out going up hills, and I just can't go up very steep hills because of this. I'd rather be limited on hills by my arms than by the front tire and to be able to climb steeper hills for more of a workout, but this limitation seems to be the nature of the design. It's driven by a single front wheel, and most of my 225 pound weight is on the pair of rear wheels. I've moved the seat forward as much as possible to help with this, but as I'm 6'4", I still sit pretty far back. It has a brand-new set of Kenda Kwest tires put on it by the previous owner. Tires are 26"x1.5"/40-559. 26"x2.0"s would fit with plenty of clearance. I'm considering going to one that size on the front for the slight width (and hopefully traction) increase. The Kenda Kwests are fairly slick, which should be better on the dry road, but don't seem very grippy. It also has a very rounded profile, so only a small, rounded patch actually contacts the road. I've aired it down to 40 PSI which seems to help a little. I don't anticipate any speeds above about 20 mph (downhill!), and average speeds closer to 7-8 mph, so high-speed turning or braking traction isn't a huge concern.
So my questions are around what to do to increase my uphill pulling traction on this single driven front wheel. Am I thinking correctly to go to a wider front tire and to run a lower pressure? Do you have any specific tire brand/model recommendations to maximize on-road driven traction? Are there any tire brands/models that have a flatter profile that would increase the contact patch? And, of course, I'm open to any other suggestions you more-experienced folks have for improving my uphill traction. I'm not looking to turn this cruiser into a high-performance handcycle, would just like to be able to tackle slightly steeper hills than I can currently. Thank you in advance for any recommendations you can provide.
My only issue is that it spins out going up hills, and I just can't go up very steep hills because of this. I'd rather be limited on hills by my arms than by the front tire and to be able to climb steeper hills for more of a workout, but this limitation seems to be the nature of the design. It's driven by a single front wheel, and most of my 225 pound weight is on the pair of rear wheels. I've moved the seat forward as much as possible to help with this, but as I'm 6'4", I still sit pretty far back. It has a brand-new set of Kenda Kwest tires put on it by the previous owner. Tires are 26"x1.5"/40-559. 26"x2.0"s would fit with plenty of clearance. I'm considering going to one that size on the front for the slight width (and hopefully traction) increase. The Kenda Kwests are fairly slick, which should be better on the dry road, but don't seem very grippy. It also has a very rounded profile, so only a small, rounded patch actually contacts the road. I've aired it down to 40 PSI which seems to help a little. I don't anticipate any speeds above about 20 mph (downhill!), and average speeds closer to 7-8 mph, so high-speed turning or braking traction isn't a huge concern.
So my questions are around what to do to increase my uphill pulling traction on this single driven front wheel. Am I thinking correctly to go to a wider front tire and to run a lower pressure? Do you have any specific tire brand/model recommendations to maximize on-road driven traction? Are there any tire brands/models that have a flatter profile that would increase the contact patch? And, of course, I'm open to any other suggestions you more-experienced folks have for improving my uphill traction. I'm not looking to turn this cruiser into a high-performance handcycle, would just like to be able to tackle slightly steeper hills than I can currently. Thank you in advance for any recommendations you can provide.
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Tire tread compounds vary a lot. I'd guess Kenda to be poor. (I've only used their tubes and I was not impressed.) Another aspect is sidewall flexibility; the more flex the better. Tread pattern too but I'd rate both compound and sidewall as being more important. (Tread patterns are great when the surface matches the tread but mis-matches can be poor.)
I don't know the options in 26". Panaracer certainly makes some and might make some using the tires of their better 700c/27" types. Vittoria makes some very good gripping tires but their focus is heavily on 700c. (If you could get a Corsa Control G+/G2.0 or Open Pave, jump on it. Race level good gripping tire. (If - and I know this might be a big "if" for you, you can manage a flat tire and get home.) The Panaracers are good all-around tires. Not immune to flats but they are not common. Popular tires from them are Pasela and Gravel King (and a third I'm not coming up with now). Continental might have a good tire in 26" but they may be more focused or tread wear, flat protection and rolling resistance, all of which subtract from pure traction.
I don't know the options in 26". Panaracer certainly makes some and might make some using the tires of their better 700c/27" types. Vittoria makes some very good gripping tires but their focus is heavily on 700c. (If you could get a Corsa Control G+/G2.0 or Open Pave, jump on it. Race level good gripping tire. (If - and I know this might be a big "if" for you, you can manage a flat tire and get home.) The Panaracers are good all-around tires. Not immune to flats but they are not common. Popular tires from them are Pasela and Gravel King (and a third I'm not coming up with now). Continental might have a good tire in 26" but they may be more focused or tread wear, flat protection and rolling resistance, all of which subtract from pure traction.
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Is there room to install a front rack/basket that you could add weight to?
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Tire tread compounds vary a lot. I'd guess Kenda to be poor. (I've only used their tubes and I was not impressed.) Another aspect is sidewall flexibility; the more flex the better. Tread pattern too but I'd rate both compound and sidewall as being more important. (Tread patterns are great when the surface matches the tread but mis-matches can be poor.)
I don't know the options in 26". Panaracer certainly makes some and might make some using the tires of their better 700c/27" types. Vittoria makes some very good gripping tires but their focus is heavily on 700c. (If you could get a Corsa Control G+/G2.0 or Open Pave, jump on it. Race level good gripping tire. (If - and I know this might be a big "if" for you, you can manage a flat tire and get home.) The Panaracers are good all-around tires. Not immune to flats but they are not common. Popular tires from them are Pasela and Gravel King (and a third I'm not coming up with now). Continental might have a good tire in 26" but they may be more focused or tread wear, flat protection and rolling resistance, all of which subtract from pure traction.
I don't know the options in 26". Panaracer certainly makes some and might make some using the tires of their better 700c/27" types. Vittoria makes some very good gripping tires but their focus is heavily on 700c. (If you could get a Corsa Control G+/G2.0 or Open Pave, jump on it. Race level good gripping tire. (If - and I know this might be a big "if" for you, you can manage a flat tire and get home.) The Panaracers are good all-around tires. Not immune to flats but they are not common. Popular tires from them are Pasela and Gravel King (and a third I'm not coming up with now). Continental might have a good tire in 26" but they may be more focused or tread wear, flat protection and rolling resistance, all of which subtract from pure traction.
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Bill Kapaun 's idea is what I first thought - add something with some weight a bit further forward. A basket, a pair of water bottles, I don''t know what else. The further forward you mount the weight the more effect it will have, but likely too far forward will make whatever it is inaccessible from the driver's seat.
Another option is to lower the tire pressure in the front wheel. Since it has so little weight on it you can run it pretty low without fear of pinch flats. A tire at lower pressure will better follow the bumps in irregularities in the road and increase traction.
And while on the subject of tires, putting wider tires on the rear and a skinnier tire on the front (or simply more pressure in the R and less pressure in the F) will tilt the whole rig forward a bit, which will put marginally more weight on the front. Tires for 26" wheels are commonly available in widths from 1" up to 3+". 1.25 on the front and 2.5 on the rear will make a noticeable difference. You'll still want to run the front tire at pretty low pressure for maximum traction.
Being limited by the steepness of the road or trail is a common situation in mountain biking, and this leads to my final suggestion - practice applying the power in the smoothest possible circles to avoid any surges that will break the tire loose. I don't know you or how smooth you are so this may or may not be helpful advice.
Best of luck!
Another option is to lower the tire pressure in the front wheel. Since it has so little weight on it you can run it pretty low without fear of pinch flats. A tire at lower pressure will better follow the bumps in irregularities in the road and increase traction.
And while on the subject of tires, putting wider tires on the rear and a skinnier tire on the front (or simply more pressure in the R and less pressure in the F) will tilt the whole rig forward a bit, which will put marginally more weight on the front. Tires for 26" wheels are commonly available in widths from 1" up to 3+". 1.25 on the front and 2.5 on the rear will make a noticeable difference. You'll still want to run the front tire at pretty low pressure for maximum traction.
Being limited by the steepness of the road or trail is a common situation in mountain biking, and this leads to my final suggestion - practice applying the power in the smoothest possible circles to avoid any surges that will break the tire loose. I don't know you or how smooth you are so this may or may not be helpful advice.
Best of luck!
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Bill Kapaun 's idea is what I first thought - add something with some weight a bit further forward. A basket, a pair of water bottles, I don''t know what else. The further forward you mount the weight the more effect it will have, but likely too far forward will make whatever it is inaccessible from the driver's seat.
Another option is to lower the tire pressure in the front wheel. Since it has so little weight on it you can run it pretty low without fear of pinch flats. A tire at lower pressure will better follow the bumps in irregularities in the road and increase traction.
And while on the subject of tires, putting wider tires on the rear and a skinnier tire on the front (or simply more pressure in the R and less pressure in the F) will tilt the whole rig forward a bit, which will put marginally more weight on the front. Tires for 26" wheels are commonly available in widths from 1" up to 3+". 1.25 on the front and 2.5 on the rear will make a noticeable difference. You'll still want to run the front tire at pretty low pressure for maximum traction.
Being limited by the steepness of the road or trail is a common situation in mountain biking, and this leads to my final suggestion - practice applying the power in the smoothest possible circles to avoid any surges that will break the tire loose. I don't know you or how smooth you are so this may or may not be helpful advice.
Best of luck!
Another option is to lower the tire pressure in the front wheel. Since it has so little weight on it you can run it pretty low without fear of pinch flats. A tire at lower pressure will better follow the bumps in irregularities in the road and increase traction.
And while on the subject of tires, putting wider tires on the rear and a skinnier tire on the front (or simply more pressure in the R and less pressure in the F) will tilt the whole rig forward a bit, which will put marginally more weight on the front. Tires for 26" wheels are commonly available in widths from 1" up to 3+". 1.25 on the front and 2.5 on the rear will make a noticeable difference. You'll still want to run the front tire at pretty low pressure for maximum traction.
Being limited by the steepness of the road or trail is a common situation in mountain biking, and this leads to my final suggestion - practice applying the power in the smoothest possible circles to avoid any surges that will break the tire loose. I don't know you or how smooth you are so this may or may not be helpful advice.
Best of luck!
I'll keep practicing applying power more smoothly. As I'm new to cycling, I'm certain that I have a lot of room for improvement there. Great suggestions, thank you again.
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Looking at pictures of the bike, it appears that you could use hose clamps or something like that to attach weights to each side of the fork (like what some bikepackers do with extra gear or water bottles), as long as you're careful not to interfere with the chain. Maybe try 10 lbs on each side. Of course, that means more weight to push up the hills, but it'll help push the front wheel down. It's hard to tell if the footrest positions are adjustable, but if they are, moving those as far forward as possible without interfering with the front wheel will also help.
The fundamental problem seems to be that the frame is only made in one size, so a taller rider like yourself in variably ends up with weight farther back relative to the rear axle.
The fundamental problem seems to be that the frame is only made in one size, so a taller rider like yourself in variably ends up with weight farther back relative to the rear axle.
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You can try simply lowering the pressure in the tire you have before changing anything else. This would be my first step.
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Just for reference, I presume the picture below is the handcycle you’re talking about? And also…pardon my crude artwork.
It’d take a bit of reconfiguring, but I wonder if you could somehow reconfigure the stirrups/foot rests, or have some created, that attach so that the rests are out front, over the front axle, instead of underneath you. That way, the weight of your legs would be out over the axle instead of underneath you. It looks like the stirrups that come with the cycle can be removed, and reattached in that way…maybe??? Or you could have some made that attach that way. — Dan
It’d take a bit of reconfiguring, but I wonder if you could somehow reconfigure the stirrups/foot rests, or have some created, that attach so that the rests are out front, over the front axle, instead of underneath you. That way, the weight of your legs would be out over the axle instead of underneath you. It looks like the stirrups that come with the cycle can be removed, and reattached in that way…maybe??? Or you could have some made that attach that way. — Dan
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I see the Top End Accelerator model and others have 24" wheels... is yours actually 26?" I'm hoping so, because 26" high-quality tires will more available than 24", for sure.
The idea to put a wider tire running lower pressure up front for better traction is my recommendation. I converted a 26" hardtail MTB to run on the road and ran some excellent Continental Grand Prix tires
Shifting some weight forward will also help, but there comes a point of diminishing returns -- due to lugging extra weight up the hills. Ideally something you already need to carry - I.e. water, saddle/frame bag, etc. would be a great choice
The idea to put a wider tire running lower pressure up front for better traction is my recommendation. I converted a 26" hardtail MTB to run on the road and ran some excellent Continental Grand Prix tires
Shifting some weight forward will also help, but there comes a point of diminishing returns -- due to lugging extra weight up the hills. Ideally something you already need to carry - I.e. water, saddle/frame bag, etc. would be a great choice
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I'm wondering if you could install a spacer, maybe 1" or 2" in the horizontal section of the maintube where it has a 4 bolt connection. Would move the front end forward and you could then move the seat forward while still having enough room for your height and would add slightly more of the weight distribution to the front.
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Looking at pictures of the bike, it appears that you could use hose clamps or something like that to attach weights to each side of the fork (like what some bikepackers do with extra gear or water bottles), as long as you're careful not to interfere with the chain. Maybe try 10 lbs on each side. Of course, that means more weight to push up the hills, but it'll help push the front wheel down. It's hard to tell if the footrest positions are adjustable, but if they are, moving those as far forward as possible without interfering with the front wheel will also help.
The fundamental problem seems to be that the frame is only made in one size, so a taller rider like yourself in variably ends up with weight farther back relative to the rear axle.
The fundamental problem seems to be that the frame is only made in one size, so a taller rider like yourself in variably ends up with weight farther back relative to the rear axle.
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Traction is a function of (on a smooth surface) the weight pushing down and the coefficient of friction between the two materials. On a rough surface, the ability of the tire to conform to road irregularities plays a big part, and this is directly related to the size of the contact patch, which is a function of the weight on the wheel and the pressure in the tire. So if the weight pushing down on the tire stays roughly the same and you have the same pressure in the tire, the traction should be the same. All this is to say you shouldn't have a noticeable drop in traction if you swap to a narrower tire and keep the pressure in the tire the same. Wider tires give better traction mostly because they can be run at lower pressures without fear of getting pinch flats, but if your front wheel is almost 'floating' because of the balance of the bike, then you can run it quite low. As long as the rim isn't bottoming out against the tire and ground when you hit bumps then you are good.
You can try simply lowering the pressure in the tire you have before changing anything else. This would be my first step.
You can try simply lowering the pressure in the tire you have before changing anything else. This would be my first step.
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I don't think added weights will help enough to notice. Sliding your weight forward sounds helpful.
I was going to suggest a pricey slick tire with grippy rubber, as wide as will fit.
These Rene Herse tires are the extreme example, very grippy, 2.3 inch wide, and $$$. Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3
A few complications, though:
It looks like only the front wheel has brakes? is it a drum brake or a rim brake?
Rim brakes will also limit the tire width. How wide can the brake pads separate when when they are unlatched from their riding position for wheel removal?
Low pressures will help. For a reasonable pressure, I'd look for a slight widening of the tire sides where they contact the road. Since the weight on the tire seems low, this might be quite low pressure! The "rule of thumb" on a road bike is a 15% height drop where the tire flattens against the road with the rider's weight on the tires. That allows flexing over rough road surfaces, but with minimal pinch flat problems.
You are depending on this one wheel for steering and braking, so flats on a downhill would be bad. That kind of limits just how lightweight a tire you would want.
And too low a pressure makes pinch flats more likely. But pinch flats are related to how tall and how sharp edged the pothole / rock / debris is, and how fast the rider is going. The tire just bumps over a squared rock chunk at low speeds, but compresses to the rim at high speeds, causing the pinch flat.
Tire width vs pressure.
Pressures are proportional to the square of the width (the interior circular cross section is that familiar formula, pi x radius squared)
A 2 inch tire has about 75% more air volume than a 1.5 tire! Surprising. So maybe 25 psi on a 2 inch tire instead of the 40 psi on the 1.5 tire.
I was going to suggest a pricey slick tire with grippy rubber, as wide as will fit.
These Rene Herse tires are the extreme example, very grippy, 2.3 inch wide, and $$$. Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3
A few complications, though:
It looks like only the front wheel has brakes? is it a drum brake or a rim brake?
Rim brakes will also limit the tire width. How wide can the brake pads separate when when they are unlatched from their riding position for wheel removal?
Low pressures will help. For a reasonable pressure, I'd look for a slight widening of the tire sides where they contact the road. Since the weight on the tire seems low, this might be quite low pressure! The "rule of thumb" on a road bike is a 15% height drop where the tire flattens against the road with the rider's weight on the tires. That allows flexing over rough road surfaces, but with minimal pinch flat problems.
You are depending on this one wheel for steering and braking, so flats on a downhill would be bad. That kind of limits just how lightweight a tire you would want.
And too low a pressure makes pinch flats more likely. But pinch flats are related to how tall and how sharp edged the pothole / rock / debris is, and how fast the rider is going. The tire just bumps over a squared rock chunk at low speeds, but compresses to the rim at high speeds, causing the pinch flat.
Tire width vs pressure.
Pressures are proportional to the square of the width (the interior circular cross section is that familiar formula, pi x radius squared)
A 2 inch tire has about 75% more air volume than a 1.5 tire! Surprising. So maybe 25 psi on a 2 inch tire instead of the 40 psi on the 1.5 tire.
Last edited by rm -rf; 06-23-22 at 08:13 PM.
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Just for reference, I presume the picture below is the handcycle you’re talking about? And also…pardon my crude artwork.
It’d take a bit of reconfiguring, but I wonder if you could somehow reconfigure the stirrups/foot rests, or have some created, that attach so that the rests are out front, over the front axle, instead of underneath you. That way, the weight of your legs would be out over the axle instead of underneath you. It looks like the stirrups that come with the cycle can be removed, and reattached in that way…maybe??? Or you could have some made that attach that way. — Dan
It’d take a bit of reconfiguring, but I wonder if you could somehow reconfigure the stirrups/foot rests, or have some created, that attach so that the rests are out front, over the front axle, instead of underneath you. That way, the weight of your legs would be out over the axle instead of underneath you. It looks like the stirrups that come with the cycle can be removed, and reattached in that way…maybe??? Or you could have some made that attach that way. — Dan
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I see the Top End Accelerator model and others have 24" wheels... is yours actually 26?" I'm hoping so, because 26" high-quality tires will more available than 24", for sure.
The idea to put a wider tire running lower pressure up front for better traction is my recommendation. I converted a 26" hardtail MTB to run on the road and ran some excellent Continental Grand Prix tires
Shifting some weight forward will also help, but there comes a point of diminishing returns -- due to lugging extra weight up the hills. Ideally something you already need to carry - I.e. water, saddle/frame bag, etc. would be a great choice
The idea to put a wider tire running lower pressure up front for better traction is my recommendation. I converted a 26" hardtail MTB to run on the road and ran some excellent Continental Grand Prix tires
Shifting some weight forward will also help, but there comes a point of diminishing returns -- due to lugging extra weight up the hills. Ideally something you already need to carry - I.e. water, saddle/frame bag, etc. would be a great choice
I'll get some weight out on the fork, too. Still looking into how to do it without interfering with the chain or with my knees when I transfer on to/off of it but I'll figure it out. Thank you for your suggestions!
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I'm wondering if you could install a spacer, maybe 1" or 2" in the horizontal section of the maintube where it has a 4 bolt connection. Would move the front end forward and you could then move the seat forward while still having enough room for your height and would add slightly more of the weight distribution to the front.
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I don't think added weights will help enough to notice. Sliding your weight forward sounds helpful.
I was going to suggest a pricey slick tire with grippy rubber, as wide as will fit.
These Rene Herse tires are the extreme example, very grippy, 2.3 inch wide, and $$$. Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3
A few complications, though:
It looks like only the front wheel has brakes? is it a drum brake or a rim brake?
Rim brakes will also limit the tire width. How wide can the brake pads separate when when they are unlatched from their riding position for wheel removal?
Low pressures will help. For a reasonable pressure, I'd look for a slight widening of the tire sides where they contact the road. Since the weight on the tire seems low, this might be quite low pressure! The "rule of thumb" on a road bike is a 15% height drop where the tire flattens against the road with the rider's weight on the tires. That allows flexing over rough road surfaces, but with minimal pinch flat problems.
You are depending on this one wheel for steering and braking, so flats on a downhill would be bad. That kind of limits just how lightweight a tire you would want.
And too low a pressure makes pinch flats more likely. But pinch flats are related to how tall and how sharp edged the pothole / rock / debris is, and how fast the rider is going. The tire just bumps over a squared rock chunk at low speeds, but compresses to the rim at high speeds, causing the pinch flat.
Tire width vs pressure.
Pressures are proportional to the square of the width (the interior circular cross section is that familiar formula, pi x radius squared)
A 2 inch tire has about 75% more air volume than a 1.5 tire! Surprising. So maybe 25 psi on a 2 inch tire instead of the 40 psi on the 1.5 tire.
I was going to suggest a pricey slick tire with grippy rubber, as wide as will fit.
These Rene Herse tires are the extreme example, very grippy, 2.3 inch wide, and $$$. Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3
A few complications, though:
It looks like only the front wheel has brakes? is it a drum brake or a rim brake?
Rim brakes will also limit the tire width. How wide can the brake pads separate when when they are unlatched from their riding position for wheel removal?
Low pressures will help. For a reasonable pressure, I'd look for a slight widening of the tire sides where they contact the road. Since the weight on the tire seems low, this might be quite low pressure! The "rule of thumb" on a road bike is a 15% height drop where the tire flattens against the road with the rider's weight on the tires. That allows flexing over rough road surfaces, but with minimal pinch flat problems.
You are depending on this one wheel for steering and braking, so flats on a downhill would be bad. That kind of limits just how lightweight a tire you would want.
And too low a pressure makes pinch flats more likely. But pinch flats are related to how tall and how sharp edged the pothole / rock / debris is, and how fast the rider is going. The tire just bumps over a squared rock chunk at low speeds, but compresses to the rim at high speeds, causing the pinch flat.
Tire width vs pressure.
Pressures are proportional to the square of the width (the interior circular cross section is that familiar formula, pi x radius squared)
A 2 inch tire has about 75% more air volume than a 1.5 tire! Surprising. So maybe 25 psi on a 2 inch tire instead of the 40 psi on the 1.5 tire.
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This is an interesting issue that really has its root in poor frame design/fitting. It seems the manufacturer tried to solve a poor turning radius problem by pushing the real wheels as far forward as possible.
Assuming we’re talking cleanish dry pavement only, and not a moist grassy hill, the differences between one size or brand of tire and another are going to be pretty minor at best once you’re running slicks at the correct pressure. Given your disadvantage with tire changes I would run extra thick tubes just to decrease the odds of getting a puncture from a piece of glass.
Really what you want to do is shove the rear wheels backward, but I don’t see a good way to do that other than a frame modification, which a frame builder may or may not want to do. Lengthening it changes the forces on the rest of the tube, and I don’t know how much overhead is in the original design.
Your only other option is more weight forwards. Adding weight to the frame, or something rigged to it, will have a different impact to handling than something rigged to the fork, so you might try both.
Really it sounds like a different bike is needed, but I’m well aware of how uncommon handcycles are to begin with.
As previously mentioned, concentrating on smooth power delivery will definitely help.
Assuming we’re talking cleanish dry pavement only, and not a moist grassy hill, the differences between one size or brand of tire and another are going to be pretty minor at best once you’re running slicks at the correct pressure. Given your disadvantage with tire changes I would run extra thick tubes just to decrease the odds of getting a puncture from a piece of glass.
Really what you want to do is shove the rear wheels backward, but I don’t see a good way to do that other than a frame modification, which a frame builder may or may not want to do. Lengthening it changes the forces on the rest of the tube, and I don’t know how much overhead is in the original design.
Your only other option is more weight forwards. Adding weight to the frame, or something rigged to it, will have a different impact to handling than something rigged to the fork, so you might try both.
Really it sounds like a different bike is needed, but I’m well aware of how uncommon handcycles are to begin with.
As previously mentioned, concentrating on smooth power delivery will definitely help.
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This is an interesting issue that really has its root in poor frame design/fitting. It seems the manufacturer tried to solve a poor turning radius problem by pushing the real wheels as far forward as possible.
Assuming we’re talking cleanish dry pavement only, and not a moist grassy hill, the differences between one size or brand of tire and another are going to be pretty minor at best once you’re running slicks at the correct pressure. Given your disadvantage with tire changes I would run extra thick tubes just to decrease the odds of getting a puncture from a piece of glass.
Really what you want to do is shove the rear wheels backward, but I don’t see a good way to do that other than a frame modification, which a frame builder may or may not want to do. Lengthening it changes the forces on the rest of the tube, and I don’t know how much overhead is in the original design.
Your only other option is more weight forwards. Adding weight to the frame, or something rigged to it, will have a different impact to handling than something rigged to the fork, so you might try both.
Really it sounds like a different bike is needed, but I’m well aware of how uncommon handcycles are to begin with.
As previously mentioned, concentrating on smooth power delivery will definitely help.
Assuming we’re talking cleanish dry pavement only, and not a moist grassy hill, the differences between one size or brand of tire and another are going to be pretty minor at best once you’re running slicks at the correct pressure. Given your disadvantage with tire changes I would run extra thick tubes just to decrease the odds of getting a puncture from a piece of glass.
Really what you want to do is shove the rear wheels backward, but I don’t see a good way to do that other than a frame modification, which a frame builder may or may not want to do. Lengthening it changes the forces on the rest of the tube, and I don’t know how much overhead is in the original design.
Your only other option is more weight forwards. Adding weight to the frame, or something rigged to it, will have a different impact to handling than something rigged to the fork, so you might try both.
Really it sounds like a different bike is needed, but I’m well aware of how uncommon handcycles are to begin with.
As previously mentioned, concentrating on smooth power delivery will definitely help.