1970 Raleigh Professional Ruberg Livery
#1
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1970 Raleigh Professional Ruberg Livery
The white one. The Mark 1. The top of the line Raleigh of 1970. You dont see many of these. I've been tracking this one for two years. A friend of a friend found it in an apartment clean out. I made an offer, just looking at photos, but it wasnt taken. It would come up in conversation now and then, and yes I was still interested. Well the deal was closed today. It was the first time I saw the in person. I was going to pay my original offer when I thumbed away some dust at the top tube behind the head lug. Upon further inspection I noticed paint stress cracking behind the lug and also around the lug itself at the transition to the head tube. But there was no telltale blips under the top tube or down tube. This bike had taken a hit, but maybe just a slight one. I offered $100 less pointing out the indecations of damage. Offer accepted!
Some soapy water and a rag, a little degreaser, I went about cleaning and inspecting. I was eyeing the top tube. Took a straight edge and dang, a gap between the straight edge and top tube right at the head lug. Minor but there. I stripped parts off the frame cleaning and inspecting. Then I saw it. The head tube had a little blip between the headlugs. Never saw that before. Bikes typically bend right behind the head lugs with the top and down tubes developing a small scrunching if the tubes. What I call a blip.
Still wanting definitive proof I dropped the fork and ran a finger down the head tube, and yep I could feel the deformation of the tube. Very subtle but its there.
So what to do? Its very slight damage. In 1970 these bikes had fairly relaxed angles. So this one now has a bit steeper head angle.
My intention was to clean the bike up, install new tires and sell it. Frame is a 21 1/2", too small for me. But with frame compromised I'm looking at a lower valuation. Still pondering my options.
Some soapy water and a rag, a little degreaser, I went about cleaning and inspecting. I was eyeing the top tube. Took a straight edge and dang, a gap between the straight edge and top tube right at the head lug. Minor but there. I stripped parts off the frame cleaning and inspecting. Then I saw it. The head tube had a little blip between the headlugs. Never saw that before. Bikes typically bend right behind the head lugs with the top and down tubes developing a small scrunching if the tubes. What I call a blip.
Still wanting definitive proof I dropped the fork and ran a finger down the head tube, and yep I could feel the deformation of the tube. Very subtle but its there.
So what to do? Its very slight damage. In 1970 these bikes had fairly relaxed angles. So this one now has a bit steeper head angle.
My intention was to clean the bike up, install new tires and sell it. Frame is a 21 1/2", too small for me. But with frame compromised I'm looking at a lower valuation. Still pondering my options.
#2
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input from the framebuilders would be helpful here -
bulgie gugie DougFattic
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had the opportunity to borrow one of these for a week in 1972
it was a slightly unsual example in that Worksop had kitted it with a set of MAFAC Tiger brakes
shall look forward to following along
hope you receive some postive news from the experts
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input from the framebuilders would be helpful here -
bulgie gugie DougFattic
---
had the opportunity to borrow one of these for a week in 1972
it was a slightly unsual example in that Worksop had kitted it with a set of MAFAC Tiger brakes
shall look forward to following along
hope you receive some postive news from the experts
-----
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#4
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Well, a sad end to a cool 1970 bike. Wall hanger or maybe someone might be interested in it. Damage is minimal really. If it were my size I would definitely ride it. What I do end up with is a full set of Campy NR parts including brakes! Originally came with Weinmanna but previous owner put on Campys. Also this wild GB stem and map of England bars. The micky mouse bell aint bad either.
#6
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I examined the frame more. The wheelbase measured out to 39". Guessing originally a 40" wheelbase. Its the downtube that shows the most radical bend when I put a straight edge on it. The shift lever clamp acted as a reinforcement and the tube bent just ahead of it. I still ended up with a full Campy NR group, nice wheels, at a bargain price.
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The head tube damge is interesting, I don't believe that I have seen that before. Had this been the only damage, I would have just aligned the frame and faced the head tube, to ensure the races were parallel. However, the down tube damage thows a wrench into the works. It's the type of thing that could ride fine for years but fold in half on the next impact
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#8
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It was like a forensic study taking the bike apart examining the damage. When I took the shift levers off the extent of the damage was clear. Too bad. But still had fun in taking it apart and cleaning. These Mark1's are very different fron the Professionals that would follow. Zeus fork ends are interesting. The lugs are almost crude compared to the Marks that we generally think of when "Raleigh Pro" is thought of. The fork with sloping crown is elegant. Raleigh liked the tapered chainstays which this bike has. Next step is to see if I can resurrect the very weathered Brooks Pro that was on the bike.
Last edited by big chainring; 05-04-22 at 04:55 PM.
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That's a real shame. The paint looks pretty nice otherwise.
I would think that small frames, with short head tubes, are more susceptible to this type of damage, just by virtue of the leverage exerted by the fork against the headset bearings/races.
I would think that small frames, with short head tubes, are more susceptible to this type of damage, just by virtue of the leverage exerted by the fork against the headset bearings/races.
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72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
#10
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‘tis a shame. My 1970 is a great ride.
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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interesting to see that it came through with a GB stem/bar set
the example i borrowed (mentioned in earlier post) was fitted with a 3TTT Gran Prix stem/bar set of the late type which took a 7mm allen key
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interesting to see that it came through with a GB stem/bar set
the example i borrowed (mentioned in earlier post) was fitted with a 3TTT Gran Prix stem/bar set of the late type which took a 7mm allen key
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#12
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Update on my Pro. I was perusing the Yellow Jersey website and found some photos of frames they have repaired. I inquired via email about my frame and was quoted a very reasonable price to remove snd replace the headtube, and align the frame. Of course refinishing will cost a wee bit more. But perhaps my steady artist hand could do a repaint. Thinking, thinking......
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Update on my Pro. I was perusing the Yellow Jersey website and found some photos of frames they have repaired. I inquired via email about my frame and was quoted a very reasonable price to remove snd replace the headtube, and align the frame. Of course refinishing will cost a wee bit more. But perhaps my steady artist hand could do a repaint. Thinking, thinking......
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...if this frame is really too small for you, do yourself a favor and don't get sucked into trying to save it.
...if this frame is really too small for you, do yourself a favor and don't get sucked into trying to save it.
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It's not your size, right? I'd sell it at a discount and let a buyer who actually wants that bike deal with it. This is a cool and unusual bike; someone will want it.
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E9385
I examined the frame more. The wheelbase measured out to 39". Guessing originally a 40" wheelbase. Its the downtube that shows the most radical bend when I put a straight edge on it. The shift lever clamp acted as a reinforcement and the tube bent just ahead of it. I still ended up with a full Campy NR group, nice wheels, at a bargain price.
I examined the frame more. The wheelbase measured out to 39". Guessing originally a 40" wheelbase. Its the downtube that shows the most radical bend when I put a straight edge on it. The shift lever clamp acted as a reinforcement and the tube bent just ahead of it. I still ended up with a full Campy NR group, nice wheels, at a bargain price.
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Update on my Pro. I was perusing the Yellow Jersey website and found some photos of frames they have repaired. I inquired via email about my frame and was quoted a very reasonable price to remove snd replace the headtube, and align the frame. Of course refinishing will cost a wee bit more. But perhaps my steady artist hand could do a repaint. Thinking, thinking......
needs a downtube for sure and possibly a top tube- I think the strategy would be cut a good portion of the downtube out, remove the stubs, possibly align the head and top tube prior to any other work- my hunch 50/50 an entire front end would be the Repair.
after paint, not economical but an uncommon bike.