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Can I save rusted chain and pedals?

Old 04-30-21, 11:00 AM
  #1  
robo
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Can I save rusted chain and pedals?

So, my Rivendell was put in "covered storage" over the winter, which turned out to be basically "stored outdoors under a very small overhang near an area that was heavily salted in the winter" - the chain and pedals (and some other parts) are now quite rusty. The chain was an almost new silver SRAM PC 890, but is now completely covered in rust - although it still flexes just fine. The pedals are cheap Shimano SPDs.

Can I salvage the chain by cleaning it, or is it trash? I assume the pedals will be OK with a scrub and some lubricant.
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Old 04-30-21, 11:26 AM
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i've seen worse retrieved over in the "classic and vintage" section. so, i'd say yes if the pedal bearings aren't toast and the chain isn't too stretched.
measure the chain to see if it's even worth it. otherwise, a light oxalic acid bath (or other rust removal) and nice soak in gear oil
the pedals will need dismantling to clean effectively. in the future, though, they may tend to rust a little easier than before since the metal has been compromised. that can be mitigated with occasional spraying of lubricant
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Old 04-30-21, 11:38 AM
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I used to "save" worse on the bikes my kids left in the rain and didn't ride for days. If you aren't going to put many miles into the bike anyhow, then if you can get the chain and everything to loosen up and shift right you don't even need to remove the rust.

It's mostly cosmetic and the chain flexing will get what needs to be gotten. Though if you plan to ride the bike a lot and frequently, then changing out the chain soon and cleaning the other stuff up might make gears and things last a tad longer.
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Old 04-30-21, 11:55 AM
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On a chain like this I would first hit it with PB-Blaster. Then hit it with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Then hit it with motor oil. Then see what's left...

As a matter of fact I would probably coat the entire bike with ATF then wipe it clean and see what I got...

But that's just me...

Nice Bike!
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Old 04-30-21, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zandoval
On a chain like this I would first hit it with PB-Blaster. Then hit it with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Then hit it with motor oil. Then see what's left...

As a matter of fact I would probably coat the entire bike with ATF then wipe it clean and see what I got...

But that's just me...

Nice Bike!
you're braver than me, amigo. ATF is nasty stinky stuff. i wouldn't put it all over a bike. i mean, all the time you have to handle it. gets on your skin...eww. wear disposable clothing!
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Old 04-30-21, 07:31 PM
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I’ve recovered a couple of ugly looking (i.e. rusty but not worn out) chains by soaking them for a few days in EvapoRust! It’s important though that the chain is completely free of dirt, oil and/or grease as those things prevent the EvapoRust from getting to the rusty parts. RE: the pedals, I’ve not had to refurb any rusted like the OP’s but EvapoRust may work here too. I would disassemble as much as possible as it will be hard to get the grease out of the spindle bearings before soaking in EvapoRust. The chainring bolts look to need some attention too!
I hope the OP finds a more appropriate storage location for his bike next Winter.
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Old 05-01-21, 08:32 AM
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A wire brush wheel on a drill will blast all that off no problem.
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Old 05-01-21, 08:58 AM
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Why bother on the chain? Chains are cheap. Get a new one and go ride.

The pedals don’t care if they are rusted or not. That’s just cosmetic. Ride them enough and the rust will wear off. Personally, I’d be just as concerned about the aluminum bits. Aluminum doesn’t endure salt any better than iron does. It oxidizes but the oxide isn’t red like rust. I can see white spots on the aluminum that are due to salt corrosion. Rinse your bike well to remove as much of that salt as you can.
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Old 05-01-21, 10:49 AM
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I would say the chain is the least of your worries. I would be more concerned about the hubs, bottom bracket, headset, seatpost and rear derailleur.
It's a Riv, so you spent some coin; it's worth taking it to your LBS for an overhaul/tuneup. Unless you do your own wrenching.

Otherwise, it's kinda fun to see a Rivendell all roughed up like that. Looks tuff!
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Old 05-01-21, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by robo
out of curiosity, what shifters are you using on this bike? and, do you/can you have any full driveside shots of this bike? i have a thing for nicely equipped rivendells . just if you don't mind
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Old 05-02-21, 12:43 AM
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Submerge the parts in diesel overnight. Then regrease the bearings of the pedals before assembly.

I'd replace the chain if it was mine though.
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Old 05-02-21, 01:20 AM
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The answer depends on your means and goals. I personally would replace the chain. If I were in my younger more boot strapping days I'd put some oil on that chain, go for a 20 mile ride to work loose whatever corrosion is on the inside, then properly clean, measure, and if passing re-lubricate the chain at the end of the ride.

Pedals, purely a cosmetic concern, you can probably shine up with a green scotch-brite pad (and the same on the bottle cages), although some time with a chemical rust converter on the disassembled exterior parts would be a more thorough solution.

As above, do consider what might be inside the brake and derailer pivots, etc.
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Old 05-02-21, 01:49 AM
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As long as the links aren’t frozen, I’d consider the chain salvageable. Stiff links means rust inside that you’re never going to get out. And rust is harder than steel. It’ll act as a grinding compound and accelerate wear to ridiculous levels.
Wire brush, the chemical method of your choice or ignorance can be applied to the outside rust.
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Old 09-10-21, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I scrubbed the bike down with plenty of detergent and water (both to get salt and general grime off), then soaked the chain in a citric acid bath for a few days. Then baked it in the oven to dry it, and gave it a good lube. I checked it with a chain stretch gauge and it's still got at least 50% life left in that respect, and it's now working fine again.
It was harder to get the salt pitting off the aluminum but I'm assuming that now that the salt itself is gone, it's purely a cosmetic issue.
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Old 09-10-21, 05:06 PM
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I'd be concerned about the interior of the frame. Hope you used plenty of Framesaver or whatever. At least pull the seatpost and check. Also, the twined chainstay wrap will encourage rust if the paint beneath it is not flawless.
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Old 09-10-21, 09:17 PM
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That poor bike. I bet you could find 1000 members on this forum who could give that bike a nice loving home indoors and save it from shivering outside under a cheap tarp soaking up all the humidity and stuff that blows underneath it. It isn't some Huffy from Wally-Mart here, it is a good quality bike that deserves love even if not ridden in winter should at least be loved and cared for at least somewhat.
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Old 09-11-21, 02:48 PM
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DOH! Broke my own rule and didn't check the dates...
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