himespau 

After spending the summer without a bike as a result of being hit by a car (lost a 1990 Concorde Aquila made with Columbus SLX), I recently bought a Colnago frame/fork off eBay to build up with parts bin parts so that I could start riding again as my health slowly improves. The seller said that it was made of SLX tubing and was therefore a Colnago Superissimo, and it was listed as being 2-3 cm shorter in the seat tube, 1 cm shorter in the top tube, and 1 cm shorter in the head tube, so I was hoping that by going from a 120 to a 130 mm stem and a bit more seat post showing, I'd have a ride similar to what I'd lost.

The frame arrived today and I'd love some help in figuring out what I have. It doesn't have a tubing sticker, and I don't feel any helical reinforcement in the seat tube or the downtube when I stick my finger in them through the bottom bracket shell (don't see any either when I look with a flashlight, but I always had a hard time seeing in the SLX frame I had), so I'm guessing it's not SLX. I'd read somewhere that Superissimos had SLX stamped after the Colnago on the driveside dropout, which this also doesn't have. Based on my (extremely limited) knowledge of Colnagos from the late 80's (from when I - perhaps wrongly - assume this frame comes), that would make this (potentially anyway), a Super rather than a Superissimo. On the other hand, it has chromed head lugs, which was a hallmark of the Superissimos from that period and Supers didn't have them (again, as far as I know - which isn't far).

The reason I think it's from the late 80's (or early 90's) is that it has internal cable routing with both entry points on the top of the frame (which, to my understanding, most builders quit using a few years after starting internal routing because it lead corrosion due to sweat accumulation), a race number hanger braze on (which I've only seen in the late 80's/early 90's, but I haven't seen everything), a threaded screw hole immediately in front of the number hanger (looks like a water bottle screw, but there's only one - anybody know what this is for?), and 130 mm rear triangle spacing (so unless it was re-spaced that makes it at least mid-80's if not later).

I haven't seen enough Colnago catalogs to see one like this, so does anyone have an idea what model name/date would be appropriate for this frame?

Anybody have an idea what tubing it would be made of?

It's a hair smaller than I'd hoped, but, what whatever it is, it's pretty, and I should still be able to make it work (after treating the spots where the paint has rubbed off to prevent rust and frame-saver treating the inside of the tubes), so it's not like I'm going to freak out if it's a low end frame made of seamed gaspipe (after getting hit, much of my riding will be on the trainer for a while, so weight isn't a huge concern - sweat entry into the brake cable routing might be though).

Anyway, I haven't had a chance to take pictures yet, so these are the seller's:

himespau 

I should note that, as a parts bin build, it's going to be built up with 10 speed-era Campagnolo (mainly Centaur) and probably a triple crankset regardless of what the model/date you all are able to identify it as. If the insurance ever reimburses me for my wrecked bike/health damages, I might change that, but unless/until that happens, I'm stuck with working with a very limited budget (which the frame/fork pretty much used all of).

Mackers

'89 Super

himespau 

Awesome, thanks. That would make it, Columbus SL tubing, right?

Do you know what the screw hole in front of the racing number is for?

himespau 

Frame cleaned and Framesaver in. Now the eternal debate: fill the places where the paint was scratched off to the bare metal (down to primer will be left) with metal flake blue, red, and purple as close to original as possible or just cover with clear nail polish to protect? Leaning toward the nail polish as bad matches bug me, but, will I look down and see protected metal and think, "man, I wish I would have fixed that when it was a bare frame"? Could also skip the clear nail polish and go with turtle wax, but, since this will mainly be used on the trainer, it's going to be hit with a LOT of sweat, so I want it as protected as possible.

himespau 

I know it totally doesn't matter, but I read somewhere that internal top tube routing of the rear brake cable made frames from this era have the Piu ending. So does that make this a Super Piu?

Since I'm letting the Frame Saver dry, I haven't tried putting a seatpost in yet. It was advertised as fitting a 27.2 seatpost, but it's probably a 62 or 63 cm frame, and, at least at one time, the Supers used Columbus SP tubing on frames bigger than 57/58 cm. I was under the impression that SP/SPX frames used 27.0 seatposts, but I could be wrong about that. If that's true, I sort of hope it is made out of SP because I have a seatpost that is supposed to be 27.2, but is undersized (my calipers say 27.04 to 27.08 depending on where I put them) that I'd love to use.

GhostRider62

Just buy her a cappuccino and talk nice.

himespau 

I don't know, with these racy lines, I think she may be more the type that prefers to be ridden hard than sweet-talked.

3alarmer 

.
...I did one restoration where the original paint was pretty good, and I didn't want to try matching the chipped, bare spots, because it was virtually impossible. I brush applied the Rustoleum stuff, that is called "rust converter", because it dries to a flat black finish, which is sort of neutral overall with regard to the paint, which is sunset gold. You could try a similar approach with your paint, by picking some neutral color that works with your paint scheme. Then I oversprayed the whole thing with Sparymax Clear 2 part urethane, while the frame was bare, to preserve the fragile original paint and decals.

I don't know what Colnago was painting with in 1989, but I presume that it's somewhat fragile, like a lot of Italian paint jobs.

himespau 

Honestly, I was shocked at how solid the paint/decals seem on this frame. I have the same thoughts about Italian paints from the 80's (though my Italian made ~1990 Concorde Aquila had great paint - very peelly decals though - so I know that prejudice isn't 100% true), so I figured it must either be later than that, or a frame that was painted elsewhere. Could also be that when Colnago started in on their fancy paint jobs, they also started using a hardier paint.

I like your rust converter idea. From looking at the edges of the worn spots, it looks like there's a primer or base layer that's white, so I might try that.

I have a couple of cans of clear coat spray, but I'm not confident in my ability to spray evenly.

The spots where the paint is damaged area all small and I don't see any rust, so I may just wax the frame and then just periodically do that again when I change out cables every couple years or so.

This whole pink/purple mixture/gradient of colors is not something that I ever would have picked as my first choice if I had a set of options, but it really pops in the sun and is growing on me.

Mr. 66

That will be one nice trainer!

DMC707

top tube sweat guard to protect it


Amazon.com: ROCKBROS Bicycle Trainer Sweat Net Frame Guard Absorbs Sweat Black Red : Sports & Outdoors

himespau 

Without a doubt. I have something very similar to that (not sure of the brand), but I wouldn't go without it.

One thing I have to say about riding on the trainer (and this will be even more true once I get this built as I'm switching to waxing my chain) is that it makes it a lot easier to keep the white tape and hoods white. I actually have gloves I wear on the trainer (and only on the trainer), which feels as dumb as wearing a helmet on the trainer, but I've seen people's bars get totally corroded from heavy trainer duty and mine looked pristine the last time I changed tape because my gloves were soaking up much of the sweat.

Once I get my insurance money, I hope to seriously up my fan situation as well.

himespau 

Not a perfect match for our team kit, but a similar gradient of pinks to purples with black.

himespau 

So the 27.2 mm seatpost I bought to fit in this frame is too big. So is the undersized "27.2 mm" seatpost (Velo Orange Grand Cru Setback version I, digital calipers showed it at 27.08 mm) I had previously had on hand. That would sort of make sense if it's really Columbus SP rather than SLX. It's probably a size 62 or 63 frameset (I measure the seat tube ~61 cm CTC and the head tube and top tube measurements are more similar to 62 or 63 cm frames on the Colnago geometry chart I saw but not a perfect match for either). Some years, apparently, Supers were made with SP in sizes above 58, so I can see that.

The 26.6 mm seatpost I had on had was too small.

That means it takes either a 26.8 or a 27.0 mm post. Given that the top of the seattube has a little room to flex for clamping (and therefore won't be perfectly round), what's the best way to determine which sized post I need? Even with the not quite roundness, is using my calipers the best approach? I mean, I could just buy one of each post and see which fits best, but I've already spent money on a nice 27.2 post and don't want to waste more on other nice posts I don't need (or on 2 cheap posts I won't use as I'd replace the correct one with a nice one anyway).

I see IceToolz makes a cone-shaped sizing tool that's not too expensive, but, if it's angled, it only measures right at the top and I'm not sure that's any better than just using my calipers. The real ones with 1 inch steps are pretty expensive. I emailed the seller and said, "this isn't SLX as you advertised (meaning it's not a Superissimo as was advertised), and seatposts of the size you advertised don't fit, so can you remeasure the seatpost you took from the frame?" Not sure that'll get a response, but maybe I'll get lucky.

RustyJames 

My 2 cents - I’m not a fan of rust converter. Once brushed on it’s there forever. Yes, further oxidation has been halted but there is a nasty brown tar that will never go away which would be a crime on such a beautiful frame. Dremel, brass bristle wheel and top with paint, nail polish, whatever.

Glad you are recovering and back on 2 wheels.

GhostRider62

SP had a thickness of 0.7 at the top. 28.6 - (2 x 7) = 27.2 whereas the SL had a thickness of 0.6 for a difference of 27.4. 27.2 was sort of the standard for SL or 531 but us heavier riders had SP tubes mixed in. The tubes were not exactly round. I had to use 26.8 seat post once but 27.0 is more likely to fit. I think my old 1972 masi uses 26.8 and a newer steel bike made in the 80;s takes a 27.0

himespau 

Yeah, I ought to just go to the lbs and see if they have sizing rods. They are holding a different frame of mine (and theoretically trying to remove the stuck bottom bracket, but I think they've given up) that I haven't had time to go over and pick up because my semester just started, so I need to go there anyway.

When I wrote the seller asking him to re-measure the seatpost that had been in there, he said that it had been a nominally 27.2 Bontrager post that came out easily, but he'd already sold it so he couldn't measure.

I briefly considered wrapping some sandpaper around the undersized Velo Orange seatpost I have and trying to remove that last .08 mm to get it down to 27.0 and see if it'd fit, but I decided that it was already undersized and I didn't know how much margin of error was built in. Also, it's crazy long and I was lazy - but lets go with the safety thing.

merziac

Assuming the ST is clean and smooth?

Out of round is a problem too as we know.

I have the Ice Tools checker and am not a fan. If it was longer and the marks weren't so close together it would be a little better but still too hard to use without a flat top ST.

I usually just use SP's I have on hand and measure with calipers. On the ones that are close, I revisit the clean and smooth and settle on a good slip fit with light grease.

This is key as it is often not what we think it should be as are many posts too.

Best case scenario the slip fit should be too tight without grease and just right with it if the ST is as clean as it can be.

himespau 

There were a few burrs that I filed down, the spacing of the slot looks even up and down, and it's fairly clean. I'll try cleaning both it (and the seatpost) further and re-lubing. If I really worked at it, the undersized post could get in about an inch, but that was a fair bit of working and scratching the post and I was concerned about it getting stuck.

merziac

If you have to work that hard for an inch, you aren't close enough at all yet and the worry of getting stuck will hamper any progress.

You need to find the almost too tight spot and smooth it from there unless it is very close to the next smaller size.

One of the other big things that can help is using a chrome steel post for the fussy tight part of the process.

They are hard and don't stick like alloy ones, usually when I get a chrome one to fit, the alloy one will fit very well with the light grease.

Another benefit of the chrome post is you can tap them on the sides to round out the top of the ST and further down to a lesser degree.

Again smooth and clean is key especially on the really tough ones, the more so, the better.

A sand paper flapper wheel or a brake cylinder hone works best for getting further down smooth when necessary.

himespau 

My calipers (only able to go down half an inch or so with the inner diameter side of the calipers due to their design) said the seattube opening varies between ~27.1 and 27.2, so the post that varied ~27.08 to ~27.11 was just too close to that. I tried cleaning it a fair bit with shop rags and the inside feels smooth as far as I can get down with my finger all the way around. Seems like a 27.0 would probably work given the amount of space all the way around my 26.6 post when the clamp bolt wasn't in the ears at all.