Pcampeau

I’ve had a chance to look this morning and the axles are hollow so it seems likely these wheels had skewers instead of wingnuts when new. I’ve been looking around the Internet and it does seem that wingnuts we’re fairly common on Rotrax bikes (especially the GB set) I can’t tell what brand the hubs are without doing a good cleaning first, the stamping is too faint and the wheels are too dirty. I can just barely make out the words “Made in England” on the hub shells. Who knows if the hubs are original, or if the axles were replaced, or if the hardware is all correct? I may eventually look for a nice set of appropriate tubular wheels, I know already that I don’t want these 27” rims that are drilled for schrader valves.

Pcampeau

The previous owner In 2019 had asked Rotrax for information regarding the bike. I thought I’d share the contents of the Email he received from Tim Maund of Rotrax.

”Hello Michael, the Rotrax you have is one of our Super Course models, the number two in the range and in cost. We built yours in early 1953. The components you have are typical for that year except the Modolo brake levers are late 60s/70s. To carry out a restoration, Ideally it should be stripped of components and the frame carefully checked for damage. Have the HB extension and crankset re-chromed including the rings if they are not worn. Re-polish all of the alloy parts, replace the headset and bottom bracket with period parts, and have the frame stove enameled and transferred. It would be wise to replace the alloy bars and seat pin. Plenty of work to keep you occupied.”
Regards Tim

The previous owner acquired the bike from a house flipper in 2019 and forwarded this email to me. Here’s a pic of the serial # denoting 1953 with the first two digits.

tiger1964 

BTW, Gnutti cranks after rechroming (about $150), Blue Magic and Wolfgang metal treatment:

Pcampeau

Those parts look great! I’m curious, what was your crank pulling method? Do you have the Gnutti crank puller, or did you have to get creative?

Slowride79

Yes I have done it and yes it lifted paint from a 1950 Raleigh head badge so no I would not soak in that or any other product. I have since learned Paint formulations from early 50s were very different from today ( or even 1960s and later) and nowhere nearly as robust. My best results on chrome have been from simply spraying with wd40 or equivalent and brushing with a brass bristled brush (make sure 100% brass not plated). Brass is softer than chrome so you will only take off rust and it wont scratch. All so called chrome cleaners have abrasives and will remove not only rust but also some chrome eventually (sometimes sooner than later) leaving it dull and cloudy. That rust is surface rust and not structural. You will destroy the bikes value by having re-chromed so don’t even think about it. With the modern parts replaced and chrome cleaned up you’ll have a strikingly beautiful piece of British steel. consider using red cotton bar tape and cable housing to set off the lug lining. Have fun!

tiger1964 

It's been a few months, but I recall a conventional gear puller, and was prepared for a big fight - but they readily came off with little effort. Also, if I remember correctly the left side retaining bolt is left hand thread. I read that the Gnutti extractor tool is nearly impossible to find.

Pcampeau

Thanks for sharing your experience with the paint coming off. As for new chrome, I’m really considering it on some of the components but not the frame.

Big Block

Very nice project.
If it were mine I would go with a set of GB Superhood brake levers and the accompanying GB Coureur brake callipers
Disraeli Gears has the 1954 Simplex catalogue
and these Juy 51 Fitting Instructions may assist you page 1 and page 2
Nissen make a suitable cable casing, and I totally agree with the earlier comment on red casing and red cloth handlebar tape
I enjoyed Mike's gentle refurbishment of his 1948 Rotrax.
The available components for your bike would be found in the 1952 Brown Brothers catalogue. I have a hard copy, however the online version kindly made available by Dawes-man is an essential and accessible resource.
His 1954 Rotrax may assist in identifying the correct decals.
As for the rims, please identify them, and do they have the classic 32/40 spoke count? A small ferrule can be made up to fit into the valve hole.
I would keep the front GB wingnuts and use regular wheel nuts for the back. That way they are nice and tight for when you ride and the wheel should stay aligned.

More specialist commentary on the frame could be given at the Friends of Rotrax facebook page. The list of members includes many very highly regarded collectors of bikes from this period.

bulgie 

I got mine in 2012 from Gary Higgitt in the UK who either machined them himself or had a machinist make a small batch of them. I'm pretty sure he ran out long ago, but I emailed him just now to ask. I asked if he could share the thread spec to save us having to measure it. I know a machinist can measure the existing thread but I myself don't have the tooling to do that. If we knew the thread spec (nominal size and tolerance, thread form i.e. 55° versus 60°, anything else to know?) then we could order some extractors made without having to bring a crank arm to the machinist for measuring.

A tool for occasional use probably doesn't need to be made out of anything special. Free-machining steel with no heat-treatment would be just fine, I would think.

Mark B

Pcampeau

Big Block thank you for the many links. My plan is to get the GB Coureur brake calipers, and yes, the Superhood brake levers. As for housing and bar tape, we’re a ways off from that yet but these links you provided will come in handy. Please feel free to keep on making suggestions. When it comes to a bike like this, I consider myself more of a steward than an owner. I’d really just like everything to be right with it. I’ll enjoy it for years to come but when the time arrives to part with it, I’d like to pass it along to it’s next owner as an accurate example of a wonderful piece of 1950s cycling history.

Pcampeau

Thanks for sending out an inquiry to someone capable of building an appropriate extractor. I don’t know of anyone locally who can help me with this. I really don’t know the threading or how to find out about that on my own, but please feel free to PM me if you’d like me to gather info for you. Perhaps you can instruct me a bit? It would be nice to have a few of these made up for the group.

Pcampeau

Rims are Weinmann, and yes Big Block, they do indeed have the 32/40 spoke count.

Big Block

That is the approach I take. I have a number of British lightweight bikes in this time frame (1946-1952). The closest completed is a 1952 EA Boult. The project includes many recollections of the original frame owner see https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/v...ic.php?t=87348
Philip

Big Block

check to see there is any evidence of cracking. If no cracks, then I would encourage you to keep them. This allows you to have the original 32/40 hubs.

Pcampeau

Okay, I’m convinced. I do not care much for Schrader valves but you’ve just given me permission to not spend money on hard to find rims or invest time in rebuilding the wheels. No cracks. Hooray!

Big Block

don't use Schrader Values. Use Presta valve and these adapters https://wheelsmfg.com/catalogsearch/...ta+stem+savers

Pcampeau

Good solution. That’s what I’ll do.

tiger1964 

Depending on cost, I would not mind having one. I might not be so lucky getting the cranks off next time. That said, at my age, how many more times and I going to be servicing this particular crankset?

Of course, perhaps Phil Wood might come out with a sealed-bearing bottom bracket for the Gnutti...

jamesdak 

Wow, whole lot of potential there and already quite the beauty!

Pcampeau

My GB Super Hood brake levers arrived today! These should look much more appropriate than the Modolo levers that came to me with the bike. Much like everything else on the Rotrax the GB levers are in need of polishing, but they appear to be in good condition. Good thing I like polishing metal, this project is gonna keep me busy. I’ve also replaced that really ugly seat post with something that better looks the part. I’ve got a 1975 Raleigh Competition with a bent frame and fork that I won’t ride so I’ve taken the liberty of stealing the seat post from it and mounted it here. It’s a little scratched up so I’m not sure I’ll use it permanently but it sure looks nicer, so this will work for now, especially since I’m not riding the bike until after refurbishing.




The plain aluminum seat post from my damaged Raleigh Competition.

Pcampeau

By the way I’m still searching for the appropriate Coureur brake calipers if anyone has a lead?