Crank Position For Photographs
#26
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I'm firmly in the camp of cranks level (right crank forward) and stems at 6:00.
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#27
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I'm not sure I'd noticed that before, but having just sampled a bunch of randomly chosen vintage catalog pictures, it's a remarkably ubiquitous feature of complete bike pictures.
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#29
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For catalogs, cranks should be aligned with the seat tube, with the drive side/camera-facing crank down to avoid blocking any markings on the seat tube or chain stay.
For personal online photos to show off our prized bicycles, I prefer everything slightly askew -- cranks, valve stems, etc. -- with stem raised too high, seat post too low, and drop bars tilted back like a beer bike, in order to reach out to folks with OCD.
For personal online photos to show off our prized bicycles, I prefer everything slightly askew -- cranks, valve stems, etc. -- with stem raised too high, seat post too low, and drop bars tilted back like a beer bike, in order to reach out to folks with OCD.
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Just tighten the bearings a bit?
Some sort of rubber bands on the pedal axle to produce some drag between the axle and pedal body?
Bearing adjustment seems too slow and tedious, compared to putting something on the axle.
Another observation.. this was also the era when a top-of-the-line bike actually came with pedals!
Steve in Peoria
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#32
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OK, to add another question....what position should pedals be in with toe-straps and clips attached?
Best, Ben
Best, Ben
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#33
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I always thought cranks lined up with seat tube with pedal down was right. Then again, if the best part of your bike is its vintage Campy Super Record crankset, you might want the cranks horizontal so the viewer can read the labels.
#34
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I prefer the crank on the side I'm looking at to be lined up with the chain stay (pedal toward the front wheel), making the crank look like an extension of the chain stay. In fact, after parking, I always align my cranks this way Depending on the bike and the angle of the chain stay, the crank may or may not be perfectly horizontal. Regarding the pedals, I don't have a choice - their center of gravity determines how they end up. Happy photographing!
Last edited by BikeOnForever; 09-21-21 at 10:42 AM.
#35
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I tend to use the advice HERE for photos.
#36
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As a designer, I always made sure I could get to the shoot and art direct.
Made that part of the deal. Saved many a dollar.
The crack up was once when setting up an accessory shoot with a prototype vehicle, everyone was afraid to move the car.
Hand me the keys, I set it up in the first of two orientations, "how did you know that was a good angle?" My job.
Probably saved a half day of the photographer's rate.
Marketing people are clueless.
note the pedals were possibly hot glue tacked into position, they don't sit that way without being restrained somehow.
The Bianchi set up works reasonably well, I can see a case for aligning with the chainstay too, extending that line forward.
Yep, hide the valves.
Decide what gear you want the bike in.
Close the brake quick releases. (pet peeve)
Last edited by repechage; 09-21-21 at 10:56 AM.
#37
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I'm not too particular about crank position, but valves should be at 12 or hidden IMO.
#38
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My take on best crankset position for bike pics.....
The drives side crank arm and pedal kinda fills in the open space between the wheel, frame and the ground
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#39
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However, I'm also partial to the 2:30 position that Pinarello adopted:
Why? Well, I'm glad you asked. There's an accepted rule in analog watch or clock photography that the hands are in the 10:09 position (1:51 is also acceptable,) this is because, I believe, the hands imitate a smiling face:
Noting that it's not 10:10 or 1:50, otherwise the minute hand would be covering the 2 or 10.
Having the crank at the 2:30 or even 2:45 position makes a similar smiling shape with the DS chain stay.
I'm not sure about valve position. I've heard they should be at 12:00 so the tyre labels can be read, but the popular opinion is they should be at 6:00. I kind of like hiding them behind the fork arm/stay, but if you've got logos sticking out then it defeats the purpose. I'll have to meditate on this one some more.
Last edited by P!N20; 09-21-21 at 09:51 PM.
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#40
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If your composition is of drive-side and you avoid (or crop out) your gnarly bare feet, I'm generally good with it. Now, can you find a better fence than a chain link one?
#41
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I may convert at the 2:30 position. The reason is that that is the position I like the pedal to be in when I start from a start.
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#42
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As already posted by Drillium Dude I always photograph my bikes with the crank in this position, apart from me and DD nobody else seems to do it that way. To me it just better conveys forward motion than the other positions and still maintains symmetry with the frame.