Good quality mixte frames?
#26
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Yes, in general (in the US anyway) a wet paint job is more expensive than a powder coat job. For everyday riders, not "restorations", powder coat is the most cost effective way to go.
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Buying a nice used frame is what I would do. If it comes in the form of a complete bike with good parts that you can use or resell, even better. (As a matter of fact, it is what I did last summer. Story is here)
11 kg is well within reach with any decent frame, as it will depend largely on the choice of parts. Steel cranks, mudguards, sprung leather saddles, racks and baskets all add up. I've taken a full kg off once just by replacing the tires.
I am getting a little curious now. What are you aiming for?
11 kg is well within reach with any decent frame, as it will depend largely on the choice of parts. Steel cranks, mudguards, sprung leather saddles, racks and baskets all add up. I've taken a full kg off once just by replacing the tires.
I am getting a little curious now. What are you aiming for?
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Don't sell Peugeot Mixtes short. They made the PR 65 which was a 531 main frame with good quality components and forged dropouts. The regular high tensile Peugeot mixtes are quite nice as well. I restored one for my wife and it was lightweight (about 23 pounds/11 kilos, with rack, fenders and lighting) and handled really well.
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Some nice offerings from Vintage Velo Berlin:
Bertin, 800 euros:
Andre Bertin Damenrennrad - Shimano 600 Arabesque L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Simonato 1300 euros:
Oscar Simonato Special Donna Mixte ca. 1980 Campagnolo Nuovo Record Modolo - L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Bertin, 800 euros:
Andre Bertin Damenrennrad - Shimano 600 Arabesque L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Simonato 1300 euros:
Oscar Simonato Special Donna Mixte ca. 1980 Campagnolo Nuovo Record Modolo - L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
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#31
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Some nice offerings from Vintage Velo Berlin:
Bertin, 800 euros:
Andre Bertin Damenrennrad - Shimano 600 Arabesque L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Simonato 1300 euros:
Oscar Simonato Special Donna Mixte ca. 1980 Campagnolo Nuovo Record Modolo - L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Bertin, 800 euros:
Andre Bertin Damenrennrad - Shimano 600 Arabesque L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
Simonato 1300 euros:
Oscar Simonato Special Donna Mixte ca. 1980 Campagnolo Nuovo Record Modolo - L?Eroica Eroica - Vintage Velo Berlin vintageveloberlin - © Mathias Henfling
#32
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I think I would still rather go for rim brakes. Although I understand all advantages of disc, rim brakes have always worked fine for me (I don't drive too fast, especially downhill) and I like how simple they look and they are also bit lighter. And I don't mind the limited tire width, since I want to use thin tires anyway. But thank you for the suggestion! If I don't find any vintage chromoly in my size I will definitely e-mail Soma, they also have a version of the frame for rim brakes.
Also having a 15% off everything sale right now. https://www.somafabshop.com/
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Once again need to drop this in, many of these including the Bertin and Simonato are step through's not actually mixte's.
And stunning none the less.
And stunning none the less.
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#34
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Thank you for the image merziac! I was looking for a scheme like this for a long time because was curious how this type (like the ones jeirvine posted) was called. Now I know: ANGLAIS. They would definitely be an option too! The ones from the pictures are beautiful but I also have a feeling the price is high just because it’s Berlin...
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Just so you know, most mixte frames are a little longer for their vertical measurements than regular frames. This means with a tall enough seatpost and stem you can make a 54 or 55 work well for you. I am 5, 11 and rode a 54cm puch mixte and it fit great.
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Thank you for the image merziac! I was looking for a scheme like this for a long time because was curious how this type (like the ones jeirvine posted) was called. Now I know: ANGLAIS. They would definitely be an option too! The ones from the pictures are beautiful but I also have a feeling the price is high just because it’s Berlin...
You are in the right place although "mixte's" and such present a unique challenge as you are finding out.
531 is especially challenging despite being used extensively in quality and custom builds they are still quite rare and will not be cheap even if you can find one.
I encourage you to raise your ask some and lower your expectations some to get you there. You should be able to find a Japanese version made with Tange and many of them are excellent quality and very, very well made as well as beautiful too.
One more thing to add, part of altering expectations will get you there sooner, too stringent and you may never get there.
Dig in, get something to start with and work through the process, you can have a very nice placeholder that will foster better thinking moving forward so you may be able to capitalize on something you may not have considered otherwise.
Last edited by merziac; 03-21-20 at 01:19 AM.
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#37
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Thread Starter
That’s so good to know, thank you! It definitely makes the search easier!
#38
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Thread Starter
Does anyone know the Hercules Monte Carlo mixte? It says that the frame is CrMo4, it weights around 11.5kg and is available in 57cm! Sound's good to me, but was curious if anyone of you has experience / opinion about it?
It's a German brand and they seem to be relatively common in Europe.
I found one here on German eBay. It would be a bit expensive though (EUR 439,00 + EUR 70 shipping + custom fees).
I also found another one here on a Polish auction site, much cheaper (EUR 165). My parents live in Poland so I could potentially go there and pick it up. Are there any quality differences (apart from obviously colour) between the two?
I'm not in hurry, so I could also wait until I find one of them here locally since they don't seem to be rare, but for now was curious to know if you think it's a good one!
It's a German brand and they seem to be relatively common in Europe.
I found one here on German eBay. It would be a bit expensive though (EUR 439,00 + EUR 70 shipping + custom fees).
I also found another one here on a Polish auction site, much cheaper (EUR 165). My parents live in Poland so I could potentially go there and pick it up. Are there any quality differences (apart from obviously colour) between the two?
I'm not in hurry, so I could also wait until I find one of them here locally since they don't seem to be rare, but for now was curious to know if you think it's a good one!
#39
framebuilder
I’m a custom bicycle frame builder and teacher in Michigan that has been interested in not only your quest to find a good Mixte type of frame for yourself but also the educational process you go through as your knowledge increases.
Back in the classic and vintage era most bicycle frames were made out of steel. In order to meet various price points the quality of the steel in frames varied a lot. Most posters on C&V already know this but I’ll tell you anyway. Usually bike store frames had stickers on the seat tube to let buyers know what the frames were made out of. The cheapest bicycle frames were made out of low quality steel (with low carbon content) that had to have increased wall thickness to stand up to everyday use and abuse. These were the types of bicycles sold in department or discount stores. Somewhere I read that the average expected distance ridden on one of these bicycles during its whole life was around 75 miles. Just above them are frames made out of “Hi-ten” (what was said on the sticker) which means high tensile steel (with more carbon added). This is usually the lowest quality of steel used in bicycles sold in bike stores. Because it is a stronger steel, the tubing did not need to be as thick. It isn’t just a weight issue but is also reflected in the ride quality. The next step up is “chrome/moly”. This is short for steel that contains chromium and molybdenum alloys. Some tubing manufacturers used other alloys but that isn’t important to understanding basic tube qualities. Its greater strength makes it stronger and therefore less of it is needed. And finally, at the top end are “double butted” tubes. This means that during its manufacturer, the middle part of the tube is made thinner than the ends although the outside diameter remains the same. Reynolds 531 and Columbus SL are examples of double butted tubing. This is done for several reasons but the reason you might care the most is that frames made out of double butted tubing have a better ride quality. Your goal is to find a mixte made out of double butted tubing if possible. Most likely because they are at the top of the food chain they were also made with greater care and finer details.
There are variations on the steel used in bicycle frames to save weight.For example, some frames were made out of Reynolds 531 straight gauge tubing.The decals usually but not always indicated if the tubing was straight or double butted.Sometimes better tubing was used in the main front triangle and cheaper steel in the fork and back end.In order for a company to be price competitive they mixed higher and lower quality tubes to keep the price as low as possible because that is what the buyer was basing their decision on more than what the frame was made out of that they didn’t understand anyway.
Back in the classic and vintage era most bicycle frames were made out of steel. In order to meet various price points the quality of the steel in frames varied a lot. Most posters on C&V already know this but I’ll tell you anyway. Usually bike store frames had stickers on the seat tube to let buyers know what the frames were made out of. The cheapest bicycle frames were made out of low quality steel (with low carbon content) that had to have increased wall thickness to stand up to everyday use and abuse. These were the types of bicycles sold in department or discount stores. Somewhere I read that the average expected distance ridden on one of these bicycles during its whole life was around 75 miles. Just above them are frames made out of “Hi-ten” (what was said on the sticker) which means high tensile steel (with more carbon added). This is usually the lowest quality of steel used in bicycles sold in bike stores. Because it is a stronger steel, the tubing did not need to be as thick. It isn’t just a weight issue but is also reflected in the ride quality. The next step up is “chrome/moly”. This is short for steel that contains chromium and molybdenum alloys. Some tubing manufacturers used other alloys but that isn’t important to understanding basic tube qualities. Its greater strength makes it stronger and therefore less of it is needed. And finally, at the top end are “double butted” tubes. This means that during its manufacturer, the middle part of the tube is made thinner than the ends although the outside diameter remains the same. Reynolds 531 and Columbus SL are examples of double butted tubing. This is done for several reasons but the reason you might care the most is that frames made out of double butted tubing have a better ride quality. Your goal is to find a mixte made out of double butted tubing if possible. Most likely because they are at the top of the food chain they were also made with greater care and finer details.
There are variations on the steel used in bicycle frames to save weight.For example, some frames were made out of Reynolds 531 straight gauge tubing.The decals usually but not always indicated if the tubing was straight or double butted.Sometimes better tubing was used in the main front triangle and cheaper steel in the fork and back end.In order for a company to be price competitive they mixed higher and lower quality tubes to keep the price as low as possible because that is what the buyer was basing their decision on more than what the frame was made out of that they didn’t understand anyway.
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#40
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Does anyone know the Hercules Monte Carlo mixte? It says that the frame is CrMo4, it weights around 11.5kg and is available in 57cm! Sound's good to me, but was curious if anyone of you has experience / opinion about it?
It's a German brand and they seem to be relatively common in Europe.
I found one here on German eBay. It would be a bit expensive though (EUR 439,00 + EUR 70 shipping + custom fees).
I also found another one here on a Polish auction site, much cheaper (EUR 165). My parents live in Poland so I could potentially go there and pick it up. Are there any quality differences (apart from obviously colour) between the two?
I'm not in hurry, so I could also wait until I find one of them here locally since they don't seem to be rare, but for now was curious to know if you think it's a good one!
It's a German brand and they seem to be relatively common in Europe.
I found one here on German eBay. It would be a bit expensive though (EUR 439,00 + EUR 70 shipping + custom fees).
I also found another one here on a Polish auction site, much cheaper (EUR 165). My parents live in Poland so I could potentially go there and pick it up. Are there any quality differences (apart from obviously colour) between the two?
I'm not in hurry, so I could also wait until I find one of them here locally since they don't seem to be rare, but for now was curious to know if you think it's a good one!
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#41
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Dear Bike Community,
I'm planning to buy a used mixte and restore it: replace components for best ones I can afford and maybe paint the frame. I'm going to use the bike daily to commute through hilly Zürich. My priorities are:
- possibly good quality frame and components
- simple and elegant look
- as light as possible (I know lightness and mixte are contradictory words but as I understand there are different frames and some are extremely heavy and some are just heavy...)
I'm 179cm (5'10") so from what I understand I would need a frame around 57cm (which is a bit challenging to find since most of them are smaller...).
For now I'm searching on eBay etc. for brands such as Koga Miyata, Univega, Bianchi, Hercules and Motobecane... I stopped looking for Peugeots since I read on this forum that they are usually (although very pretty) rather low quality. Am I missing anything? And my main question to you: How do I recognise from pictures / description whether a frame is a good quality and light?
I'm prepared to spend on the whole thing up to EUR 800.
I would appreciate any thoughts!
Warm greetings from Switzerland,
Maja
I'm planning to buy a used mixte and restore it: replace components for best ones I can afford and maybe paint the frame. I'm going to use the bike daily to commute through hilly Zürich. My priorities are:
- possibly good quality frame and components
- simple and elegant look
- as light as possible (I know lightness and mixte are contradictory words but as I understand there are different frames and some are extremely heavy and some are just heavy...)
I'm 179cm (5'10") so from what I understand I would need a frame around 57cm (which is a bit challenging to find since most of them are smaller...).
For now I'm searching on eBay etc. for brands such as Koga Miyata, Univega, Bianchi, Hercules and Motobecane... I stopped looking for Peugeots since I read on this forum that they are usually (although very pretty) rather low quality. Am I missing anything? And my main question to you: How do I recognise from pictures / description whether a frame is a good quality and light?
I'm prepared to spend on the whole thing up to EUR 800.
I would appreciate any thoughts!
Warm greetings from Switzerland,
Maja
Paging Bianchigirll
BianchiGirl, one of our more knowlegeable members, knows first hand what you are looking for...
BianchiGirl, one of our more knowlegeable members, knows first hand what you are looking for...
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#42
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the hercules does not appear to be high end, probably perfectly usable, but not special. Also if you parents are in poland and you had in interest in the Creme Bike, I am pretty sure the are made in Poland, don't know if there are any local deals, but may be worth checking
#44
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Raleigh made a number of models that were mixtes during the 60's - 80's. Some were better than others, but they were relatively common, and quite possibly easier to find for reasonable prices than most other vintage frames. Perhaps the best by reputation was the Grand Sports.
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#45
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#46
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Today I'm going to test-ride this pretty Ycenna mixte.
Unfortunately it's quite for sure too small for me, but still I think it's a good idea to start seeing bikes in real life to get more feeling for how a good frame should look and feel like... And the seller seems to have good bikes regularly, so it will be good to get to know him. Even if this one doesn't fit, he may have something for me in the future.
This Ycenna has Super Vitus 971 double butted tubes so from the knowledge I gained here so far it's not a bad one, is it?
Unfortunately it's quite for sure too small for me, but still I think it's a good idea to start seeing bikes in real life to get more feeling for how a good frame should look and feel like... And the seller seems to have good bikes regularly, so it will be good to get to know him. Even if this one doesn't fit, he may have something for me in the future.
This Ycenna has Super Vitus 971 double butted tubes so from the knowledge I gained here so far it's not a bad one, is it?
Last edited by babie_lato; 03-22-20 at 07:37 AM.
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#47
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Don't sell Peugeot Mixtes short. They made the PR 65 which was a 531 main frame with good quality components and forged dropouts. The regular high tensile Peugeot mixtes are quite nice as well. I restored one for my wife and it was lightweight (about 23 pounds/11 kilos, with rack, fenders and lighting) and handled really well.
I quite fell in love with this Peugeot PR65 with Reynolds 531 tubes on German eBay. I would totally buy it but unfortunately the seller is not responding my messages and calls...
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#48
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Nice bikes, both of them. The Peugeot is better equipped with aluminum rims, lights and is better sized. Love the color of the Ycenna and the Stronglight 99bis crankset.
#49
framebuilder
One thing you need to know when buying your mixte is your saddle height. I measure from the center of the bottom bracket (the center of the crank) to the top of the saddle along the center of the seat tube. For a lady of your height this distance will probably be around 75cm give or take a couple of centimeters. Once you set your saddle height on the bike you are going to test ride, your next problem is your handlebar height. It is going to want to be at least as high as your saddle - and depending on how aggressive you ride maybe a centimeter or 2 higher. Being able to get your handlebars up to this height is related to your frame size. If your frame size can will not allow the handlebars to get up that far then your frame is too small and you need to find a larger size. Having the handlebars in the wrong position is a common reason a rider is not comfortable and as a result does not enjoy cycling.
You will notice that there are 3 general shapes of handlebars with many small variations within those categories. Your last 2 pictures show 2 of the 3 types. The top picture of the Ycenna shows a straight bar similar to what Americans use on mountain bikes. The Peugeot bicycle on the other hand has bars that sweep back in an M shape. For upright more casual riding I prefer that shape over a straight bar because it takes some pressure off of my hands. The 3rd category is traditional drop bars like the Hetchins or others in some of the 1st set of pictures. These are the kind of handlebars used for longer and faster rides.
The Dutch often have transportation bicycles with M shaped bars because they use them to ride to work at a fairly slow speed (like the effort used in walking) so they don't arrive all sweaty. If on the other hand you are going to use this bike for exercise and longer recreational rides you will probably prefer drop bars which put you in a more powerful aerodynamic position. So the question you need to answer and I am curious is what kind of riding do you want to do with a mixte bicycle?
You will notice that there are 3 general shapes of handlebars with many small variations within those categories. Your last 2 pictures show 2 of the 3 types. The top picture of the Ycenna shows a straight bar similar to what Americans use on mountain bikes. The Peugeot bicycle on the other hand has bars that sweep back in an M shape. For upright more casual riding I prefer that shape over a straight bar because it takes some pressure off of my hands. The 3rd category is traditional drop bars like the Hetchins or others in some of the 1st set of pictures. These are the kind of handlebars used for longer and faster rides.
The Dutch often have transportation bicycles with M shaped bars because they use them to ride to work at a fairly slow speed (like the effort used in walking) so they don't arrive all sweaty. If on the other hand you are going to use this bike for exercise and longer recreational rides you will probably prefer drop bars which put you in a more powerful aerodynamic position. So the question you need to answer and I am curious is what kind of riding do you want to do with a mixte bicycle?
#50
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Is it just me or does the first Hercules (the one from German ebay) have a bent fork?