w1xq

Thanks Sixty Fiver! Will give it a try.

w1xq

Thanks akcap! I use Flickr so will give it a try!

w1xq

Picked up a 1965 Foremost off CL a few weeks ago. Plan on doing some cleaning in a few days. It has the J C Penny stickers on the frame. It appears to be Raleigh built. Has the 3 speed twist shifter.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream

w1xq

w1xq

I give up, will stick with thumbnails.

graywolf

Well they sell chaincases for the roadsters too.

On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.

wahoonc

Here you go...

I think you need to choose the size of picture you want then right click on it and choose "copy image url" then paste that code.
Aaron

akcapbikeforums

$27,000 1939 NOS Raleigh Superbe on Ebay:

flammenwurfer

That is gorgeous!

ascherer 

Gulp.

w1xq

Thanks Aaron!!!

jrecoi

I've thought of fabricating a 26" version of the Steco rack/stand that mounts on the axles, and fitting a longer axle (and corresponding indicator chain).

Juggler2

This might be of interest.
https://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101

yellowbarber

this seller is just over in Brooklyn and every few months turns up a gem like this one (i.e. his & hers nos late 50s superbes)
I have been meaning to drop a them line to see about coming by for an awestruck look.

shoota 

lol @ the boobs on the desk in one of the pics

graywolf

That is what I have, I do not recommend it if you have a full chaincase on your bike. The type of stand that came with such bikes in the old days was one that was part of the rack. I saw someplace that was selling them recently but it was out of my price range. Also, if you try to mount that one on a 3-speed you need some extra thin nuts under the mount to hold the axle tight.

akcapbikeforums

Took my 'new' Raleigh Sports in to the office this week. It's a 1972 Standard (S22): no pump pegs, Endrick rims, no headlight mount... and after studying the sticker at the bottom of the seat tube (which is covered mostly by a bike shop decal from Sudgen & Lynch of Menlo Park)... the bike was definitely made in Malaysia.

I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip.

It's now shifting through all three gears well -- though downshifts seem to require more effort. This is one of those bikes that's suffered more dis-use than overuse, so now that I've lubed the hub well, it probably just needs some exercise. The chrome cleaned up super well, but the front Endrick rim seems to have suffered disproportionately -- I'd like to replace that so if anyone has a fairly nice Endrick wheel sitting around, let me know.

Norfolk is almost completely flat, but we do get wind --3rd gear is just too high to be useful. I'm thinking of changing out the rear cog to either 22T or 24T. Any thoughts or recommendations on that would be appreciated.

And I need to come up with a good name for her.

Here she is at my desk up on the 15th floor of the new Wells Fargo Center (to the right you can see the tracks of our new light rail, The Tide):

flammenwurfer

Very nice akcapbikeforums! Cool picture. I put a 22t cog on my Sports and I really like it. I think any larger than 22 would make 3rd too low. I think 22 is a very good choice if you have high winds or hills but still want a decent 3rd gear.

gna

Looking good. Is this the GAP/C&O trip? That looks fun.

Sixty Fiver

It has probably been said here many times that the stock gearing on a Sports and Raleigh's other three speeds was optimized for riding on fairly level roads and suited lower cadence riding... if you ride a stock Twenty or a Sports the gearing will be nearly the same as the cog sizes were adjusted to bring them within a few gear inches of each other and many DL1 models were fitted with a larger cog to equalize the gearing for the 635 wheels.

In any case, it makes 3rd gear fairly useless for a bike that weighs 35-45 pounds and increasing the size of the rear cog improves the low gear and makes the 3rd gear more usable... I like to set up my 3 speeds with the high gear being my primary cruising gear and then I have two steps down for wind, hills, and bigger hills.

akcapbikeforums

Thanks flammenwurfer!

So 65er, are you a fan more of the 24T over the 22T?

Same trip, though we are doing ours ad hoc!

Sixty Fiver

Gimped as I am I don't run any cog as large as a 24... I aim for a low of 40 gear inches so a 21 tooth cog on a Sports with 26 inch wheels does that, modifying a Twenty with it's smaller wheel rates a 19 as they do not like even numbered cogs as it does not work with the chain stay length and limited adjustment.

My winter bike has a 22 tooth cog mated to a 42 tooth chain ring to give it a low of 35 gear inches.

jrecoi

In glass table flat Miami when I got my Raleigh, 48x22 worked well. Starting off on 2nd (56"), and then switching to 3rd (75") worked well most of the time, and when the headwinds and ocassional overpass got too strong, 1st (42") did the trick.

Now that it's in Colombia, the gearing became rather inadequate for both the hills and the unpaved roads. 2nd (56") works well on level unpaved roads, with 3rd (75") doing well on any downhills and level paved roads. 1st (42") works with short unpaved uphills, and extended paved uphills, but unpaved uphills are too much.

To deal with this, I have three options:

One, I change out for a larger rear sprocket, a 23t to get 72"-54"-40" gearing with the original 48 tooth crank. The issue this has is the full chaincase, I'm not sure how large a rear cog it can handle, but from what I've heard 23-24 teeth is the upper limit. I'll also have to play a bit with chain length, might have to get a half link as well.

Two, I swap the crank for a 46t to get similar gearing with the same 22t sprocket. More expensive, but a simple change.

Three, swap the AW guts for S5 or FW guts, and their associated odds and ends. An expensive and rather invasive change. I'll do this only if measures One and Two don't do the trick.

IthaDan 

Sorry, just saw this.

What would be the best way to do this? Pictures with a tape measure? Pictures against a backdrop of 1/4" graph paper?

jrecoi

Pictures with tape measure please.