RoadWearier

I wish I could post photos but since I'm new I guess I'm not allowed. Anyway a guy nearby was initially asking $125 for a Schwinn World Traveler. Can't find a serial number but it says "Made In Japan for Schwinn Chicago" or words to that effect. Bike is Yellow. Actually came with dynamo lights but they don't seem to work.
We haggled back and forth and he said he wouldn't take less than $70.

I went to see it anyway because I was bored. It rides ok. Shifts actually fine. Brakes are...ok. They work but certainly won't throw you over the handle bars. The rear wheel is I guess "out of true" ie it wobbles but not enough to kiss the pads.
When I pedal there is a clicking noise every revolution when the cranks are at 3 and 9 o'clock.

​​​​​Everything else is fine. I just got it for riding around the city and doing errands. I also thought it would be an interesting contrast during group rides (This is a slower group. 11 mph pace 20-30 miles)

Should I keep it or try to sell it? I like it. It's kind of cool in an ugly funky way. Is it even worth $40? I was going to walk away when I didn't think he was going any lower than $70. I said it was more of a $40 bike. So I was surprised when he said he'd take $40. I almost felt like I had to get it.

Also what do you think is making the clicking noise when I pedal? Also is there a way to fix and adjust dynamo lights? Did the bike come stock with them? Or should I just take them off and toss them?

Also I need to adjust the handlebar height. I'm assuming I just loosen the nut at the bottom of the stem?

I could have bought an early 80's Schwinn Voyageur for $125 with a rack. Should I buy that one? I think it was recently tuned up. Is an 80's Schwinn Voyageur that much better of a bike for what I'm using it for? I'm having a little buyers remorse.

Also should I bother truing the wheel? It's not rubbing on anything. I don't really know how to do it and I'm sure it would cost more than I paid for the bike to have it done.

cb400bill

Pic Assist - https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/22863225

cb400bill

That is a small frame. How tall are you?

RoadWearier

Thanks for the help. Well I'm 5'10 with a 32 inch inseam.
when I stood over it, it passed the "two finger from the groin test." Lol

noobinsf 

If you're interested in fixing up old bikes, then the $40 certainly wasn't wasted, but I would say that as it is, it's barely a $40 bike. Youtube will be your friend here, and you will likely be able to do the majority of the work you need to do by yourself with normal (i.e., not bike-specific) tools. One important term -- you have what's known as a "one-piece" or Ashtabula crank. Look it up on Youtube and you'll find useful guides. "RJ the Bike Guy" is one of the more prolific posters of bike fix-it videos, and they are generally well produced (good lighting and close-ups, good audio) and cover a lot of different topics. Pretty bike, it's a nice shade of yellow!

EDIT: I just saw your post about your height -- it's likely too small for you. If I were you, I'd spend a little time with those videos, keep your costs down overhauling it, and then sell it for $100 when it's done. Money well spent if you end up liking it as a hobby.

ThermionicScott 

How much more than two fingers was it?

RoadWearier

Actually there wasn't much space so I thought it was tall enough. Maybe it's too small? I don't know. I didn't measure the bike

RoadWearier

Thanks man. I'll do that. I've got some metal polish for the rims. Maybe just a surface level cleaning and I can at least get what I put into it. Should I remove and toss the Dyno lights? Are they worth anything seeing as how they don't work? Might at least make the bike look cleaner...

ThermionicScott 

Before you put any work into this thing, have someone take a picture of you standing over the bike. You're taller than me, but this bike is way smaller than anything I'd ride. I just don't know how it could be adjusted to fit properly.

RoadWearier

I'll try to do that,. I was able to ride it today about 5 miles. It "felt" small but with the seat raised my legs are almost fully extended. Really at this point I'd just like to get my $40 back.

ThermionicScott 

Ah, maybe it's not too bad then. You wouldn't be the first of us to accidentally buy a bike that's slightly too small.

nlerner

How big are your fingers?!

Vintage Schwinn

Schwinn was building all that the Chicago plant could build and selling all they could as fast as they could, so they turned to JAPAN to build essentially a bike below the '74 Le Tour, as the '74 Le Tour had a 3 piece crank.
Your World Traveler is essentially the lugged frame of a LeTour except with a AMERICAN STYLE HANGER SET(bottom bracket) for the 1 piece crank. Your World Traveler has the GT-100 (shimano built Rear Derailleur that was on the 1970 thru Feb 1974 COLLEGIATE & 5 Speed SUBURBAN). It is a much better derailleur than the Huret Allvit that was standard on the VARSITY / CONTINENTAL / 10speed SUBURBAN / '64-'69 COLLEGIATE. Lucky people got Varsities.. etc with the GT-100 when the production line was out of Allvits at that moment, as the GT-100 is tremendously better in every way.
Count the teeth on the first gear, if you have 32 teeth there, means that you have the freewheel (MODEL J, japanese) which the 5 speed SUBURBAN, '70 onward COLLEGIATE, and '70 onward SUPER SPORT. The GT-100 shifts a 32 COG. The Allvit cannot reliably shift anything beyond 28, and 28 was the first gear cog on the VARSITY/CONTINENTAL/10speed SUBURBAN which had the (Model F, france) freewheel having 28-14. The MODEL J seen on the 1970 and later Collegiate, 5 speed Suburban, and Super Sport has a freewheel having 32-14.
The 1974 Le Tour weighed probably 32 pounds total. Your World Traveler probably weighs about 34 pounds. With this World Traveler, what you have is a Japanese varsity which is significantly better than the VARSITY(unless one has one with a GT-100 rear derailleur) and significantly lighter than the Chicago built VARSITY. If it does indeed have the Collegiate/5sp SUBURBAN/Super Sport 32-14 gear Model J freewheel, it is tremendously better than the VARSITY,( that is beyond significantly better..) BECAUSE THE 32 teeth gear would offer much much greater hill climbing capabilities.
Certainly, the electroforged frame of the VARSITY, COLLEGIATE, SUBURBAN....etal, is INDESTRUCTIBLE & PROVIDES A GREAT RIDE, but the Japanese built LeTour's lugged frame PROVIDES A GREAT RIDE TOO, but if you ride it into a concrete wall at 14 mph it might get damaged where an electroforged frame probably will not. The fact that your bike has the old style American hanger set for the 1 piece crank, makes it simple and as bombproof as any Varsity, but with the Quality of a Seventies era COLLEGIATE, or 5 speed SUBURBAN which were superior to the Varsity in quality because they featured SHIMANO rear derailleur and freewheel and the Varsity had European(Huret) rear derailleur and freewheel, though very good, but not nearly in the same league as Japanese(shimano) quality of the early seventies.
Sure, one can make and some folks often did make improve their VARSITY back in the day by installing the rear wheel or freewheel of the 5 speed Suburban(or the same model J freewheel from a 1970 onward Collegiate) & the Shimano built schwinn approved GT-100 rear derailleur from the 1970 - Feb 74 COLLEGIATE or from 1970 - Feb 74 SUBURBAN 5 SPEED.
The major drawback to that Panasonic , Japanese built japaneseVarsee- T, is that I don't think that there were nearly as many frame sizes as the Varsity was offered in. I don't think that it, as that particular one piece crank, world traveler decalled badge designation, was ever included in the Schwinn Catalog.
It looks good in the KOOL LEMON.
Here is the initial LeTour:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1974_13.html
Here is the old how to determine frame size, leg length guide:
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1973_05.html
SCHWINN GT-100 rear derailleur(introduced in 1970, disraeli gears site is WRONG as the max cog is not 28, as the GT-100 built by shimano was designed for 32)
The Schwinn Approved GT-100 derailleur
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/...100_derailleur

Here is the SCHWINN GT-120 rear derailleur WHICH REPLACED THE GT-100 in 1974, here you see it looks all SHIMANO with Low(@) High(@) limit screws BELOW WHERE IT READS Schwinn Approved GT-120 in the typical Shimano location ........the @ represent the small Phillips style screw heads...........
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-derailer.html
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/...erailleur.html
again the DiraeliGears site is WRONG about the GT-120 in saying 28 max cog as the GT-120 was designed to shift the 32 teeth cog on five speed SUBURBANS/COLLEGIATES.

The BELL Pitcrew 600 CABLE SET is $10 inside some Walmart stores and at Walmart online site & through ACE HARDWARE online site (THE ACE STORES DO NOT STOCK IT IN THE STORES)......................You'll need a Bicycle Brake Cable Cutter which the no-name exact same appearance and excellent quality as branded versions from some USA online bikeshops for about $16 and free shipping on their Ebay store listings..........You can pay alot more for one that looks the same but says PEDRO's or PARK or YA-PAY 2 MU CH , or whatever it might say. If you need a direct link, just say so in the thread and I will add it in another post within this thread.
Same thing for details and instructions about the bottom bracket servicing... The TOOL YOU'LL NEED is the cheap 12'' crescent wrench from HARBOR FREIGHT (typically currently around $9 ) YOU NEED THE TWELVE INCH crescent wrench because it's jaws are large enough.... Anyone who needs the direct link to that part, just say so and I'll go find it and add it to this thread. The GRAY 40mm brake pads on Ebay are decent enough and very inexpensive....... search 40mm brake pads.
The BLACK ones really stink. I hear that the pencil eraser colored ones as marketed there on ebay as "Krate brake pads" or something like that...(KRATES are those old 5 speed Schwinn Stingray bikes from 1968-1973 that are worth several thousand dollars today if in excellent condition).
IF YOU WANT TO TURN THE BIKE INTO A TOURIST STYLE BIKE, any old 25.4 clamp area steel or aluminum handlebars will work fine. That includes just about every ordinary American bike from about 1935 through the Seventies, at least. The WEINMANN tourist levers (gold dot, red dot, red dot eye poker.....DOES NOT MATTER) as they are functionally all the same. THE BELL 600 Pitcrew CABLE SET has everything( the ferrules WHERE THE CABLE enters/exits the WEINMANN Lever)
so you just need a pair in decent looking shape with the 22.2 CLAMP BAND for the typical 7/8" outer diameter of the handlebar at where the LEVERS attach (7/8" ~ 22.2mm)..................that 7/8" outer diameter of chrome steel handlebars on Millions of bicycles from back in the day......and they have a 1" (25.4mm) clamp area.
The 1967 through 1977 SCHWINN 7881 handlebars are among the best ever in design & comfort in my opinion. THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF POTENTIAL DIFFERENT OTHER HANDLEBARS THAT MIGHT BE GREAT CHOICES TOO.
The 7881 handlebars were seen on 1967 -1977 Schwinn BREEZE, SCHWINN COLLEGIATE, 1970 - 1977 SCHWINN SUBURBAN, and a bunch of others.
You can tell exactly for certain that they are indeed 7881 handlebars because in the clamp AREA portion they are stamped as such..........7881-67 would indicate 7881 handlebars , 1967 manufacture..................................7881-72 would be 1972 manufactured.................you get the picture that 7881- xx (xx=year )

HERE IS A POSSIBILITY IF THAT FRAME SIZE IS A LITTLE SMALL:
As you probably know, the old Sting Ray banana seat bikes had a 14" SEAT POST while the VARSITY/COLLEGIATE/SUBURBAN/CONTINENTAL had a 9" SEAT POST of 13/16" outer diameter with the 5/8" seat mount top portion. MY MEMORY IS A LITTLE FUZZY BECAUSE IT HAS BEEN DECADES BUT I THINK THE EARLY VERY INEXPENSIVE JAPANESE SCHWINNS ALSO HAD 13/16 instead of 1" but I might be totally wrong on that.
Get a conservative high-rise handlebar with maybe a 10 inch rise....seen in the seventies on the smaller bikes for younger (7-8 year old riders). About 1970 or 1971 Federal pressure forced the wilder, wider super high monkey high rise handlebars off of the market. Those crazy bars are reproduced today but they were effectively banned by 1971 and those from '70'-'71 on were less crazy. Those on small child bikes in the seventies might work well. Get a extra long seat post. BMX people like porkchop bmx have quality layback seatposts too, if you're aim is to make upright comfortable cruiser. Heck, you could go all out NUTS and buy a reproduction new banana seat for about $22 and the reproduction sissybar chrome rear seat attachment necessary for the banana seat, and some NEW Reproduction(WALD) high rise handlebars. You might need to fabricate and or modify an acceptable mount for the RIGHT side sissy bar attachment if the factory StingRay mount interferes with the ten speed's rear derailleur. Wald and others make many handlebar types that you might consider. WALD makes several extra long Schwinn seatposts.
HAVE FUN WITH IT IF YOU WANT TO, IF NOT THEN PERHAPS FIND ANOTHER THAT FITS YOU BETTER & PASS THIS ONE ALONG TO ANOTHER OWNER.
If you're not having fun, then you are likely doing it wrong.

cb400bill

I'm also 5'10". That bike is too small for you. If you ride it, please do not life the seat post and stem past the SAFE line.

bikemike73 

Buy the Schwinn Voyager. They are VERY good bikes

The World Traveler is a decent bike. My friend STILL has his from 1973 !!!!!!

We went for a ride this summer. Still looks great in Opaque Green !!!!!!

The Traveler might be a little small for you. That's ok, it is a great bike to practice your mechanic skills on. At $ 40.00 I would have bought it for old times sake, and to " hone" my skills on.

Good Luck and tale your time. Like above have said....you tube has some great videos to help

RoadWearier

So it is indeed about a 22 inch / about 53cm bike so I guess it's too small for me with my 5'10 33ish inseam. Lesson learned. I found someone who would trade this bike plus $100 for a Raleigh Alyeska. He says it's for someone 5'11. Should I do it? Assuming it's in similar condition?

52telecaster

Nice bike but probably way too big.

RoadWearier

Seller stands 5'9 and he can straddle the crossbar with just barely touching crotch flat footed.

madpogue 

+1, you need something just about halfway in between the sizes of these two bikes.

RoadWearier

Ok there's a Schwinn Voyageur SP, early 80s for $125...
Also a Schwinn World for $150.

Both are 23 inches. I'm thinking the Voyageur SP is the better deal. Both are supposedly tuned up and ready to go.

RoadWearier

Also a Schwinn Varsity for $75 but I'm guessing that really shouldn't be in the running. Even for slow group rides....also lime green

RoadWearier

Then there's this Schwinn for $25...anyone know what it is?

dedhed

That's a boat anchor

madpogue 

Barring any major issue, the Voyageur is the best of the above-mentioned options, and a fair price.