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Why I hate cottered cranksets...

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Why I hate cottered cranksets...

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Old 12-06-22, 02:28 PM
  #51  
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Kurt,
It is always a possibility. However 61+CM frames are a no no go, and the ones needing repair to the rust on the top tube are also no go's. Perhaps the doghouse and fenders from a 69 Dodge would work. Smiles, MH Gimme a call 812-336-3283
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Old 12-06-22, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
Kurt,
It is always a possibility. However 61+CM frames are a no no go, and the ones needing repair to the rust on the top tube are also no go's. Perhaps the doghouse and fenders from a 69 Dodge would work. Smiles, MH Gimme a call 812-336-3283
Can't call today, but can tomorrow. Will be in touch...

-Kurt
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Old 12-06-22, 10:47 PM
  #53  
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I have an older generation of the Bike Smith press and it works great on both my Schwinn and Raleigh three speeds with cottered cranks. It's worth it if you plan to do you own bottom bracket work on a cottered crank bike. The tool has paid for itself many, many times over in terms of saved time for me.

And I love those "AS&CO" cranks.

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Old 12-08-22, 01:22 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Can't call today, but can tomorrow. Will be in touch...

-Kurt
Tomorrow? Har!
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Old 12-08-22, 02:13 PM
  #55  
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This is what ChatGPT had to say. Not sure I agree.
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Old 12-08-22, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk
Tomorrow? Har!
Apparently I have no memory...

-Kurt
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Old 12-09-22, 01:07 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by arex
This is what ChatGPT had to say. Not sure I agree.
I tasked it with a related question.


This is like reading WikiHow when it was really bad. (Not to say it still isn't, but it has improved).

But yay to us - we've invented a system that provides the same vapid advice replies with slightly better grammar -with the added benefit of wasting inordinate amount of processing power and energy to achieve said result.

-Kurt
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Old 12-09-22, 08:39 AM
  #58  
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I think I read all the posts. Did anyone mention that you often need to file the taper on the cotter to properly fit the crank and spindle? I’d like to regularly service my 73 Peugeot but after using a BFH and a 2X4 on it and getting the original set performing as it should, I’m leaving it well enough alone for the foreseeable future.
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Old 12-10-22, 11:38 AM
  #59  
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Victory...?

Okay, in the battle of the tools, it is a split decision. Tool d @Mad Honk versus tool de Treatland’s.

In the NDS crankside, Dave’s tool did well. In the DS, the C-channel actually bent and would not crack the cotter.

In comes the plate steel. After working it, the cotter popped.

The crank is now available to @RustyJames or whomever wishes to partake.


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Old 12-10-22, 12:37 PM
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Which one was used first, curiously?

-Kurt
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Old 12-10-22, 01:03 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Which one was used first, curiously?

-Kurt
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Old 12-10-22, 01:29 PM
  #62  
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You sure that crankset has enough chain guards?
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Old 12-10-22, 02:06 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
You sure that crankset has enough chain guards?
I removed two to get at the cotter pin...

That rust will shine up pretty well for someone who actually likes those types of satanic cranksets...
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Old 12-10-22, 02:08 PM
  #64  
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Now to remove the bottom bracket...
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Old 12-10-22, 02:22 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Now to remove the bottom bracket...
Whatcha looking at? Upon recommendation of someone here, on CR, or iBoB, I modified the one-tooth end of my Park HCW-5 so its inside radius better matched the radius of the Stronglight lockring on my Automoto. If you have a similar issue, let me know and I'll take some pix. Or, you can buy this from Bike Recyclery:




Also, the Stronglight fixed cup was a nearly perfect fit for the 36mm end of my Park HW-2 headset wrench:



Of course, not knowing what you actually have, I'm just speculating that any of this will help you.
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Old 12-10-22, 02:43 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
Whatcha looking at? Upon recommendation of someone here, on CR, or iBoB, I modified the one-tooth end of my Park HCW-5 so its inside radius better matched the radius of the Stronglight lockring on my Automoto. If you have a similar issue, let me know and I'll take some pix. Or, you can buy this from Bike Recyclery:




Also, the Stronglight fixed cup was a nearly perfect fit for the 36mm end of my Park HW-2 headset wrench:



Of course, not knowing what you actually have, I'm just speculating that any of this will help you.
Unless something drastic is going on at the fixed cup, it should be the easier of the two operations, but who knows??

and now I have two cool tools (one homemade junkyard special by Mad Honk!) for the zero cottered cranks I will be buying in the future.
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Old 12-10-22, 03:09 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
the C-channel actually bent and would not crack the cotter.
No surprise, that metal is just way too thin. I thought it was intended as a joke or prank when I first saw it. (Are we sure it wasn't?) Can't remove a properly-installed cotter, and definitely can't install one firmly enough to be reliable for riding.

That crank isn't really worth putting on a bike. It was near bottom-quality in its day, and this one has slipped at the swaged interface between the crank and the 3-arm spider. Note how the bolt that should be hidden behind the crank isn't quite hidden? Maybe it was just made that way (horrible manufacturing standards) and didn't slip, but either way this crank is not a keeper.

Ooh, I'm such a snob.

Mark B
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Old 12-10-22, 03:16 PM
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The c channel did well when it was seated squarely on the NDS arm.

When it was a bit squeezed on the DS, it must have been awkwardly angled a bit.

the manufactured too also hand a tough time, and the cotter bound the exit side of the tool against the spider...had to back off and pop it off...
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Old 12-10-22, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bulgie
Ooh, I'm such a snob.
But a snob of the best kind.
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Old 12-10-22, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Unless something drastic is going on at the fixed cup, it should be the easier of the two operations, but who knows??

and now I have two cool tools (one homemade junkyard special by Mad Honk!) for the zero cottered cranks I will be buying in the future.
Nothing better than a handmade tool, part, etc from Mad skillz, Honk or otherwise, regardless of the outcome IMO.

Success is of course always the goal, but often a bonus.
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Old 12-10-22, 04:35 PM
  #71  
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Okay, so adjustable cup off...

It actually seems to be British but not sure. No markings but held a Nervar crank which, of the French brands often did English threading.

Fixed cup flats are between 34.5 and 35.5, while the adjustable cup stuff was 25.

Don't want to crank that thing (pun intended) clockwise and it being French or something.

Lock nut should not be able to thread on a British cup if it is French, correct?
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