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What's worst than a seized seatpost?

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What's worst than a seized seatpost?

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Old 06-11-21, 05:02 PM
  #1  
jonny7
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What's worst than a seized seatpost?

Having your LBS to work on it and ...


Last edited by jonny7; 06-11-21 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 06-11-21, 05:06 PM
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Did they charge you to do that?
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Old 06-11-21, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jonny7
Having your LBS to work on it and ...

Aw hell that sucks. Did they charge you?
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Old 06-11-21, 05:24 PM
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No they didn't! Great people actually. Just sucks for the frame..
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Old 06-11-21, 05:25 PM
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Wow. That is truly stink-eriffic
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Old 06-11-21, 05:37 PM
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Sometimes there are no winners
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Old 06-11-21, 05:42 PM
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What was the frame?
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Old 06-11-21, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylansbob
What was the frame?
At least it wasn't one of my "great" CV bike. A Peugeot Triathlon, Canadian model I believe. Cool burgundy frame with a chrome fork. 105SC equipped. A sweet ride but surely not a unicorn.
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Old 06-11-21, 10:05 PM
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Photo is from an outside site associated with spy-gle, that probably requires an account / login. Doesn't show up from an anonymous device/browser. Such issues go away when one uses the BF-hosted gallery system
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Old 06-11-21, 10:16 PM
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Rats
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Old 06-11-21, 10:37 PM
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Oh man, they must have really done a number on it. Those Canada Pugs are usually tough as nails!
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Old 06-11-21, 10:53 PM
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Perhaps Mercifully...

...I see nothing.




(My answer was going to be "...a stuck seatpost, stem, and bottom bracket." (Each of which I managed to free over a two week period.) Haste makes waste.)
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Old 06-11-21, 11:10 PM
  #13  
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Here. Uploaded the picture correctly.
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Old 06-12-21, 12:41 AM
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OUCH! That won't buff out.
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Old 06-12-21, 01:33 AM
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The reason you don't use a gas torch to burn out the post or expand the seat tube is you want to preserve the paint If you're going to use enough force to break the frame you obviously don't care about the paint work. So what gives? A wet towel will restrict paint damage down to six inches from the post clamp no matter how much you cook it.
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Old 06-12-21, 05:39 AM
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It really wasn't much of a joint anyway. Looks like it was just butted and brazed, with no lug and very little filler material. I'd forgive the shop for the poor outcome. On the other hand, it would be easy to rebraze it.
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Old 06-12-21, 06:03 AM
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Is that one of those internally "inexternal" brazed guys? Or just a fillet braze?
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Old 06-12-21, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CroMo Mike
It really wasn't much of a joint anyway. Looks like it was just butted and brazed, with no lug and very little filler material. I'd forgive the shop for the poor outcome. On the other hand, it would be easy to rebraze it.
Those are internally brazed frames. The vast majority of the fillet forms on the inside of the tube, around 80 to 90%. A small fillet forms on the outside via capillary action. It is arguably superior to a lug. A lug adds weight and allows manufacturers to cut costs by not mitring the tubes. Consequently the only thing holding the tubes together is the lug itself. Also, you can't judge the quality of the braze, as it is hidden by the lug. Internal brazing is lighter, because it eliminates the lug. Also, it requires the tubes to be mitred, so they are in close contact with each other. Finally, the brazed joint can be inspected. The characteristics of the outside fillet, allow you to gauge the quality of the inside fillet. While rarely mentioned this ability to inspect joint is the greatest advantage of internal brazing.

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Old 06-12-21, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CroMo Mike
It really wasn't much of a joint anyway. Looks like it was just butted and brazed, with no lug and very little filler material. I'd forgive the shop for the poor outcome. On the other hand, it would be easy to rebraze it.
I don't know (meaning have not seen any numbers) but Peugeot claimed their process made joints as strong as/stronger than lugged ones, and there is a good reason why they could do so.

For most frames the main usefulness of lugged construction is economy. The tubes can be cut with no or little regard to angle and mitres, and the lug takes (some/most/all) of the actual stress at the joint - the metal there doesn't have the thickness of lug+tube,

Brazing works because the bronze alloy forms a solid solution with the surface of the base metal. Within limits, the closer the fit, the stronger the bond. Lugs are often a fairly sloppy fit, sometimes deliberately so.

The quality of brazed joints is undeniably variable, especially considering the market at which Peugeot was aiming.

So because they had the resources and production capability to make accurately mitred joints with tubing to their own specs they had something to work with.
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Old 06-12-21, 06:34 AM
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So that could be a reasonably easy fix without the lug to worry about?
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Old 06-12-21, 07:03 AM
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I dunno - those stays look tig welded. Canada-made Pugs I've seen are from after the "internally brazed" era, and are tigged. But we can't see an intact joint on the bike to know for sure.

That said, based on the one picture and a small amount of optimism that the rest of the joint is cracked similarly, any framebuilder or really anyone competent with a torch could make quick work of fillet brazing that back together.
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Old 06-12-21, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
So that could be a reasonably easy fix without the lug to worry about?
Is the post out?
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Old 06-12-21, 12:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by oneclick
Is the post out?
still in there ..!
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Old 06-12-21, 12:52 PM
  #24  
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How would one determine the nature of the joint? And the feasibility of the reparation?




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Old 06-12-21, 01:02 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jonny7
How would one determine the nature of the joint?
Section it.
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