V-brake on Trek 7.3FX (2010 model)
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 182
Bikes: Dream Ti bike to celebrate turning 70 - frame by Seven; Cannondale Synapse carbon Ultegra 3 (2015 model), Cannondale Quick SL-1 (2012 model- donated to a friend); Bianchi touring bike (1985 - Sold); Raleigh Super Course (1975 - donated to friend)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times
in
3 Posts
V-brake on Trek 7.3FX (2010 model)
My son’s Trek 7.3FX (a 2010 model) has been getting more use recently (visiting girl friend) and therefore riding on dirty city streets in various weather.
I replaced the brake cables last year, but now the original Avid SD-3 brakes need replacement pads, and generally some proper attention.
To keep life simple (cost is not a primary consideration), I was thinking of simply replacing the v-brakes - looking at Shimano Alivio BR-T4000 ( and plan on using this guide https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf starting at page 122):
~ Is there any issue in replacing the Avid SD-3 with the Shimano BR-T4000? (I seem to recall reading somewhere that the mounting post was not compatible?)
~ Is there any reason to consider a different brand/model of brake?
Alternatively I guess I could 'merely' replace the brake pads (I was looking at JagWire JS908T) and generally strip down the brakes to clean them thoroughly and reset everything
~ I have not worked on v-brakes very much – any advice beyond what I can see at (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service);.
~ Is the JagWire 908T a suitable pad?
Thanks
I replaced the brake cables last year, but now the original Avid SD-3 brakes need replacement pads, and generally some proper attention.
To keep life simple (cost is not a primary consideration), I was thinking of simply replacing the v-brakes - looking at Shimano Alivio BR-T4000 ( and plan on using this guide https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf starting at page 122):
~ Is there any issue in replacing the Avid SD-3 with the Shimano BR-T4000? (I seem to recall reading somewhere that the mounting post was not compatible?)
~ Is there any reason to consider a different brand/model of brake?
Alternatively I guess I could 'merely' replace the brake pads (I was looking at JagWire JS908T) and generally strip down the brakes to clean them thoroughly and reset everything
~ I have not worked on v-brakes very much – any advice beyond what I can see at (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service);.
~ Is the JagWire 908T a suitable pad?
Thanks
#2
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,788
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
FamilyMan007 There's no reason to replace the entire brake assembly unless you have broken or worn parts. IOW's, if there's no excessive play in the pivot bushings, the centering adjustment screws still function, and return spring tension is still adequate, then replacing them with the Alivio brakes won't get you anywhere over what you have. It's not an "upgrade" and it certainly won't simplify anything. Not only will you then have to fuss with removing the old and installing the new brakes, but you'll still have to fuss with installing and adjusting the pads. And, in my experience, stock pads generally aren't the best. Not to say they aren't adequate or that the Jags you're considering aren't, either. But, if what you're seeking is for the brakes to work superbly again (if they ever did), Kool Stop salmon or dual compound is a fine choice. Particularly for nasty conditions.
I'm a fan of the full salmon and/or the dual compound
https://www.ebay.com/p/1500040901?iid=254615808518
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12273761093...75.c101224.m-1
Both have excellent grab and longevity. Kool Stop also offers their "thinline" variety, but the ones I've linked have more surface area and follow the curvature of the rim nicely. More surface area means more grab and longer wear. I have the full salmon on my Bontrager mtb and it really couldn't stop any better.
I'm a fan of the full salmon and/or the dual compound
https://www.ebay.com/p/1500040901?iid=254615808518
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12273761093...75.c101224.m-1
Both have excellent grab and longevity. Kool Stop also offers their "thinline" variety, but the ones I've linked have more surface area and follow the curvature of the rim nicely. More surface area means more grab and longer wear. I have the full salmon on my Bontrager mtb and it really couldn't stop any better.
#3
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2739 Post(s)
Liked 3,385 Times
in
2,048 Posts
As said, Kool Stop pads. Drip some lubricant in the pivots or go whole hog and unbolt the arms, clean up the pivot bushings and lube, reinstall, and adjust.
#4
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,452
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4328 Post(s)
Liked 3,949 Times
in
2,641 Posts
If the actual brakes are not damaged or broken, then I would get high quality cables and housing (something good stiff and compressionless with polished stainless cables) and quality brake pads (SwissStop or Kool Stop) with good stiff shoes (so no all in one molded stuff) and try that, it should improve braking quite a bit. If the actual brakes are worn out or broken then yes I would replace them but it doesn't sound like that is the case. Good quality cables, housing, shoes and pads are going to generally trump better brakes with cheaper consumables. I had a Dura Ace caliper with ultra cheap pads because I was using some emergency stash and the braking was terrible on it even though yes they are the top end brakes from Shimano the pad compound was garbage and didn't work well the cables weren't bad but were also just low to mid level Jagwire stuff that we had in the shop not the nicer pro or elite stuff. Still stainless steel but not the nicer polished stuff.
#5
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,209
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Good pads make a way bigger difference than the calipers IMO. And the biggest performance difference out of the box between high dollar and cheap v-brakes is usually the stock pads.
So, you can put the money into nice pads (like the Kool stop) and have really good brakes, or get a new cheap set of v-brakes with crap pads and have crap brakes.
Pads and cables are wear items. Calipers and levers are not.
So, you can put the money into nice pads (like the Kool stop) and have really good brakes, or get a new cheap set of v-brakes with crap pads and have crap brakes.
Pads and cables are wear items. Calipers and levers are not.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 182
Bikes: Dream Ti bike to celebrate turning 70 - frame by Seven; Cannondale Synapse carbon Ultegra 3 (2015 model), Cannondale Quick SL-1 (2012 model- donated to a friend); Bianchi touring bike (1985 - Sold); Raleigh Super Course (1975 - donated to friend)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks thook; dedhed; vegan bikes; & Kapusta for taking time to respond with your advice. This forum really is a wonderful resource!
I will proceed to acquire and install the Kool-Stop v-type 2 brake pads - and likely strip down the original brakes as a learning exercise for my son & I.
The cables / housing was replaced with decent quality stuff last year so I will leave that alone this time if I can (my son is missing a right hand so his bike is set up to operate both brakes with one lever - using a 'thingamebob' made by Pervert which has one cable input operating two cables going out - makes changing cables a little more trouble which I hope will not be required)
I will proceed to acquire and install the Kool-Stop v-type 2 brake pads - and likely strip down the original brakes as a learning exercise for my son & I.
The cables / housing was replaced with decent quality stuff last year so I will leave that alone this time if I can (my son is missing a right hand so his bike is set up to operate both brakes with one lever - using a 'thingamebob' made by Pervert which has one cable input operating two cables going out - makes changing cables a little more trouble which I hope will not be required)
Likes For FamilyMan007:
#7
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
Just as a point of reference, the specs for my 2005 Trek 520 rebuild, the 2005 catalog shows Avid SD-3s the standard equipment. I ordered Shimano Alivio BR-T4000s and they came in the mail Saturday. I just tried them on the frame this morning and they are a 'good slip fit'. I agree that if the Avids have given you good performance, it doesn't make sense to change them out, but if you change your mind the Alivios will work.
One caveat, pictures of the Alivio brake set on the websites I visited showed the Alivio with cartridge-style brake pad holders. The Deore level V-Brakes do, I believe, have cartridge-style but the Alivios have one-piece style.
Good luck with your father-son project!
One caveat, pictures of the Alivio brake set on the websites I visited showed the Alivio with cartridge-style brake pad holders. The Deore level V-Brakes do, I believe, have cartridge-style but the Alivios have one-piece style.
Good luck with your father-son project!
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 182
Bikes: Dream Ti bike to celebrate turning 70 - frame by Seven; Cannondale Synapse carbon Ultegra 3 (2015 model), Cannondale Quick SL-1 (2012 model- donated to a friend); Bianchi touring bike (1985 - Sold); Raleigh Super Course (1975 - donated to friend)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times
in
3 Posts
IceTee2 - Thanks for confirmation that BR-T4000's seem to readily replace the SD-3 OEM without any issue.
The Kool-Stop pads are ordered/paid for - I had hoped to have received them by Xmas but tracking system shows package as 'in transit' which is progress.
For time being I will focus on pads / deep cleaning the Avid SD-3's with my son -- I will try to remember to take photo's as we dis-assemble the brakes to help with puttiung them back (plus I have found installation / servicing material from Shimano, Avid + Sheldon Brown which should suffice), BUT please bear with me if I come back for assistance having mucked up what should not be a particularly difficult task!
The Kool-Stop pads are ordered/paid for - I had hoped to have received them by Xmas but tracking system shows package as 'in transit' which is progress.
For time being I will focus on pads / deep cleaning the Avid SD-3's with my son -- I will try to remember to take photo's as we dis-assemble the brakes to help with puttiung them back (plus I have found installation / servicing material from Shimano, Avid + Sheldon Brown which should suffice), BUT please bear with me if I come back for assistance having mucked up what should not be a particularly difficult task!
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 182
Bikes: Dream Ti bike to celebrate turning 70 - frame by Seven; Cannondale Synapse carbon Ultegra 3 (2015 model), Cannondale Quick SL-1 (2012 model- donated to a friend); Bianchi touring bike (1985 - Sold); Raleigh Super Course (1975 - donated to friend)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times
in
3 Posts
Reporting back after what seems to have been a successful Dad / Son maintenance project: took off the v-brakes, cleaned (as thoroughly as possible without working out how to do a complete dissambly of the spring/cam components!), re-installed with the Koolstop pads, aligned etc).
Son reports that the brakes work infinitely better than before - very little brake lever pressure required compared to before!
Thanks to everyone - advice to concentrate on the pads (Koolstop in particular) rather than new brakes was real value-add. Not only have I avoided the waste-fill of throwing away the brake levers etc, I cannot imagine that cheaper (or OEM) pads would work as well.
Son reports that the brakes work infinitely better than before - very little brake lever pressure required compared to before!
Thanks to everyone - advice to concentrate on the pads (Koolstop in particular) rather than new brakes was real value-add. Not only have I avoided the waste-fill of throwing away the brake levers etc, I cannot imagine that cheaper (or OEM) pads would work as well.
Likes For FamilyMan007:
#10
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,452
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4328 Post(s)
Liked 3,949 Times
in
2,641 Posts
Reporting back after what seems to have been a successful Dad / Son maintenance project: took off the v-brakes, cleaned (as thoroughly as possible without working out how to do a complete dissambly of the spring/cam components!), re-installed with the Koolstop pads, aligned etc).
Son reports that the brakes work infinitely better than before - very little brake lever pressure required compared to before!
Thanks to everyone - advice to concentrate on the pads (Koolstop in particular) rather than new brakes was real value-add. Not only have I avoided the waste-fill of throwing away the brake levers etc, I cannot imagine that cheaper (or OEM) pads would work as well.
Son reports that the brakes work infinitely better than before - very little brake lever pressure required compared to before!
Thanks to everyone - advice to concentrate on the pads (Koolstop in particular) rather than new brakes was real value-add. Not only have I avoided the waste-fill of throwing away the brake levers etc, I cannot imagine that cheaper (or OEM) pads would work as well.
Cheaper pads won't work as well, there is a reason they are cheaper and I reason I didn't mention them. Good pads are fairly cheap compared to other upgrades and because of good compounds they stop a lot better. The cheap stuff is something I would use in an absolute emergency and would replace soon after. If I couldn't afford say $15 KoolStop pads I would need to look at my finances and say well what don't I need. Obviously not counting those actually living on the edge I am talking your average person who isn't struggling with true poverty.
Now I wouldn't have thrown working parts away, I save them and use them for other builds and projects or donate them to those who need them so if you did down the road say hey I want nicer brakes but my old brakes still work you wouldn't toss them.