OK to Replace Tube and Not Patch Tire?
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OK to Replace Tube and Not Patch Tire?
I'm a relative newbie at changing flats. Wife and I went for a long ride Saturday and got up this morning for an easy ride. She immediately notices her front tire is flat so I pull out the tire tools and tube from my seat bag, grab the pump and get busy.
Right away find the problem. Nail in the tire (if valve stem was at 12 o'clock position, nail is at 3 o'clock).
Included the valve cap to give you some idea of relative size of the nail.
I remove and replace tube, pump everything up, and we have a relaxing ride after all. But I'm unsure now if I need to actually patch the inside of the tire, or if I'm OK as is.. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.
Right away find the problem. Nail in the tire (if valve stem was at 12 o'clock position, nail is at 3 o'clock).
Included the valve cap to give you some idea of relative size of the nail.
I remove and replace tube, pump everything up, and we have a relaxing ride after all. But I'm unsure now if I need to actually patch the inside of the tire, or if I'm OK as is.. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.
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For most punctures the tire is never patched. If the hole is any larger than that you can 'boot' the tire but most people would just replace it.
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If you can't find where the hole was, then don't worry about it.
If you can find where the hole was, then if you see tube sticking out, you need to patch or boot the tire.
If the tire is deformed around where the hole was, you need to replace it.
Park boots are not designed for longterm use. But there may be other types of boots that can be used.
If you can find where the hole was, then if you see tube sticking out, you need to patch or boot the tire.
If the tire is deformed around where the hole was, you need to replace it.
Park boots are not designed for longterm use. But there may be other types of boots that can be used.
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The nail likely damaged some of the cords in the casing - if so, it'll continue to rip slowly and the rubber will pucker up. Even if it didn't, there will be a gap in the rubber that will collect sharp things and will get bigger.
Usually nails are terminal.
Usually nails are terminal.
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My approach - if I cannot see the hole from the inside when the nail/glass/whatever is removed, I do nothing. If I see evidence of the hole but no apparent cut cord threads, I simply put a tire patch over the hole to keep the tube from trying to bulge. More than that, I use a boot. On the road, usually a dollar bill (or as many as needed - I've used 5 for really big slashes; I always carry at least 5 of any demonination).
The dollar bill booted tires get sailcloth boots glued in with contractor's contact cement; the stuff you glue countertop laminates down with. (Real sailcloth from a sailmaker, not the "sailcloth" at Joann's Fabrics.) I save the cut tires and do a few at a sitting. When I have a tire off the wheel, I look to see if there is additional wear in the tread at any inner tube patches, If yes, there was cord damage and a real boot is needed.
Edit: sailcloth repairs done right are permanent repairs. I've ridden tires that got cuts 3/4" long at 500 miles until the tread was showing cord, thousands of miles later. Rode a mountainous Cycle Oregon on one such tire simply because as ride time neared, it was the tire I trusted most to grip on iffy downhill roads. Now, if I take that tire off a few times, the handling is hard on the sailcloth bond and I may have to break out the contact cement and refresh. But to save $70 tires? Not a biggie.
The dollar bill booted tires get sailcloth boots glued in with contractor's contact cement; the stuff you glue countertop laminates down with. (Real sailcloth from a sailmaker, not the "sailcloth" at Joann's Fabrics.) I save the cut tires and do a few at a sitting. When I have a tire off the wheel, I look to see if there is additional wear in the tread at any inner tube patches, If yes, there was cord damage and a real boot is needed.
Edit: sailcloth repairs done right are permanent repairs. I've ridden tires that got cuts 3/4" long at 500 miles until the tread was showing cord, thousands of miles later. Rode a mountainous Cycle Oregon on one such tire simply because as ride time neared, it was the tire I trusted most to grip on iffy downhill roads. Now, if I take that tire off a few times, the handling is hard on the sailcloth bond and I may have to break out the contact cement and refresh. But to save $70 tires? Not a biggie.
Last edited by 79pmooney; 07-25-21 at 12:00 PM.
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You could use a Rema patch on the inside of the tire. Gorilla tape works too.
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I don't patch the tires. If any bulges at the puncture when inflated, I'll boot it till I can get home and replace it. I might and have occasionally tried patching those that did have a bulge. But none gave me results that made me any happier with the tires.
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If it's not a tear but just a round hole it's usually fine. Pump up the tire and check for bulging or the tube being visible through the hole. Medium to serious bulging could be trouble down the road but if you just get a tiny bit of tube visible then use a boot of some type. Duct tape should work fine long term but check it every so often. I've had so many nails in thin walled lightweight, high pressure road tires that needed no boot or anything else I've learned not to worry too much with small round holes in the tire and if your tire has a thicker tread/casing and low pressure tire you should have even less to worry about.