Bald Paul

Coming along nicely!

robbyville

Beautifully done! Gads, seeing your wire fishing brought me back to my electrical wiring fiasco on one of old harley’s but great perseverance! I think this should also get you hankering for a proper bike stand that can rotate and clamp lol! I love assembling my bikes and wouldn’t have it any other way.

Cant wait to see the build, it’s all easy peasy from here!

Ryan_M

Let's have a discussion about that. I built what I did because I thought it was better than a clamp style setup. Clamping onto a frame is not ideal, and clamping onto a carbon areo seatpost I don't think is any better. It would put a lot of stress unnecessarily in the seatpost clamp area when the bike isn't oriented in it's upright position. With mine I can flip the bike around in seconds - granted I know I'm pretty much limited to only 3 natural positions - but upright is the position of choice the vast majority of the time except for the very rare circumstance. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'd just like to hear your point of view to the contrary. Maybe it gives me some ideas or convinces me otherwise.

mstateglfr 

It's a neat looking frame from the outside.
Unhelpful comment- external cabling wont actually make recreational riders slower and it takes 2 min to route the cables and hoses.

robbyville

Absolutely understood. I’ve been using different styles of bike stands for 36 years and could never argue contrary re clamping. Perhaps I’ve always been able to either find the right way or spits to clamp lightly and to the best of my recollection have never damaged a bike via stand.

My only fear were I to use a setup like yours is that I would mistakenly jump the frame out of the cradle and have it drop to the floor while working. I do find it pretty handy to have 360 deg rotation with internal routing as well (my most recent bike didn’t have guides)

gratoth

I bought the same frame, the ICAN A22 and plan to build it with a mechanical transmission and full length housing.
My problem is that I don't see any housing stops for the front derailleur. How did you deal with that ?

Ryan_M

The housing is continuous from the shifter right to the FD. The FD has the housing stop built into it, at least mine did. Which FD do you have?

mstateglfr 

how bout a finished pic?

Ryan_M

Here's a pic of the housing to the FD. BTW if you haven't dealt with a modern road FD take some time to read, they're a bit of a different animal. Kinda hard to get a clear pic but if you need more info lemme know.

Ryan_M

Right! I'll be the first to admit I have the attention span of a toddler so I thought I'd already posted the rest of the stuff - but not so lol.

So the rest of the build went not bad since all the hard stuff was done. Setting up the FD was the worst to say the least. Shimano doesn't have any documentation on the pages with the FD for some reason. They have links to dealer documentation for everything else. Whatever it's a FD, the easiest of all parts to adjust.... no, no it wasn't! These new road FDs work a lot different. I mounted the derailleur, tensioned the cable, and tried to set the limit screws like any other mech but with no success. I couldn't get the derailleur to go low enough, the chain rubbed the cage in the two largest cogs when in the smallest chain ring. I removed the cable and backed out the L limit screw until it almost fell out and still no change. I was cursing the frame at this point and was trying to figure out if I could modify the bracket to make it work.

Frustrated I took to the internet, and I was able to google the Shimano documents. They didn't seem to make a lot of sense so I ended up on you tube vids. These helped a lot to make me realize these don't set up like any other FD I've dealt with in the past 30 years. Following along I backed out all the setting, well there still was no cable attached and the L screw was about to fall out so I only had to back out the H screw. After I did that I turned the crank and the chain dropped on the inside and chipped the paint! Grr! How TF does the H screw affect the low side? Anyway I followed along and got it set up pretty easily. It's not that difficult, just a lot different. I really need to examine the mechanism more closely but the screws can't really be considered limit screws, in fact the H screw is used to push the FD out farther and not limit travel.

A problem I did have with ICAN though was the screws in their seat post. They have the usual 2 screw arrangement but the front screw is way too short. t could be my saddle, I have a Fizik Arione VS that has elongated carbon rails. Luckily I had some hardware that worked. It works fine but it's that imperial crap (1/4-20) so I might change it out at some point only to satisfy my OCD.

Ryan_M

The build is done now. Here it it is ready to go. I was able to get it out today and boot around the subdivision here but only did ~13km. Definitely feels different than any hybrids I've been riding for the last few decades. Not knocking the bike, I'm sure it's just something I need to learn and get used to... more aggressive riding position and handling. It felt a bit twitchy but we also had 65km winds today and with the wider rims that required some attention. It feels quick and snappy though!

bampilot06

Nicely Done!

gratoth

Ok, I see. I have a cheap Chinese groupset, the Sensah Empire and the FD don't have this kind of feature.
So I ordered an Ultegra FD and I'll be ready to build the bike in a couple of days.
Good job, thanks for your feedbacks

Bald Paul

Di2

datlas 

Looks good. I just did a buildup of my Habanero using Ultegra R8000 and I can confirm that the FD (and to some extent, the RD) setup is different, and the documentation that Shimano gives sucks. They say they have a QR code to get the "full" documentation but at least for me, scanning this gave me the same crap-o one page useless garbage.

I found a couple YouTube videos that walked me through cable installation and derailleur setup, and once done it rides and shifts like a dream. If you are not happy with the shifting it's worth looking at these.

TysonCook

So I'll be the weight weenie... what does it weigh now that it's built up?
I'm looking at a similar build (ican A22, 50mm wheels, ultegra mech).
The build looks great!

Ryan_M

Thanks! I'm still getting used to road bike vs. hybrid but its getting better fast. It rolls weirdly fast. Lemme explain... I have no experience on a road bike in the last few decades. I joined a local club and am attending their training sessions to learn to ride in a close group, rotating in a double wide situation. Ok so it's slower speed and not A+ riders but I spend most of my time coasting and riding the brakes. If I fall off a bit I only give it a few pedal strokes then I'm back to riding brakes again. I get hauled in when I get to the front of the group to keep the pace slower. I in no way consider my self a strong rider, the bike just wants to go.

I'm not exactly sure but when I was trying to compare with other builds it was messy waters. So many ways to measure but it seems the most popular way to measure is bare bike - not including pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mounts, etc... IIRC with all those other bits added in it was ~7.9kg but don't quote me. Lemme know how you'd like me to measure and I'll get you the #'s. However, you have two choices; my large scale can only measure to the nearest 0.1kg and my next lower scale can only measure 5kg max. Neither is ideal. I could use the smaller scale and measure front + back to get total weight with better accuracy. Happy to do either way.

Also that little headset problem I mentioned early became a bigger problem. It's fixed now, it wasn't really difficult and cost me $0. Still not something that you want to have to do to a new build but I expected some ****ery with a $700USD frame and I can do it (borderline really enjoy working out the kinks) so not a biggie in my particular situation. If I spent $3-4k on the frame I'd be much more passionate about it.

[edit] I'm working on a follow up post for the headset thing, and how I fixed it. To be fair to the manufacturer, I have not yet contacted them about it but I will when I get my ducks in a row. It could very easily be an oversight because their bearing supplier missed a digit in the part # so I'm not quick to blame them. We'll see. [/edit]

TysonCook

No worries, use the larger scale when it's convenient. The pedals usually add on ~200g/pedal, cages are ~20gm, garmin mount ~30g.
Great build and I'm glad you are out enjoying it!
Thanks!

Ryan_M

Hey, sorry. Life got busy and I forgot I hadn't gotten back to you yet.

So on the scale is:

- ICAN A22 54cm frame with all the bits and (IIRC) 44cm x 11cm one piece handle bars
- ICAN Aero 45 wheels
- Pirelli P-one 700x28 tires with 60mm Muc-Off valve stems and ~50ml of Orange Seal per tire
- Shimano R8020 groupset w/170mm cranks, 50-34 rings, and 11-34 HG800 cassette (so long cage RD)
- R8000 Pedals
- 2x MT800 140mm CL rotors
- AL garmin mount
- Fizik Arione VS saddle
- SRAM bar tape
- 2x carbon bottle cages

The scale was fluttering between 8.0kg and 8.1kg depending on how I breathed so likely very close to 8.05kg. Hope that helps!

zatopek

Other than very minor deductions for excessive stem spacers, your bike absolutely rocks. The fact that your rig was assembled per your predilections, makes you a maestro in my humble estimation. Bravo.

mstateglfr 

Haha what?
There is a healthy amount of saddle to bar drop and the bar's drops are below the top tube.
Priportions look solid. Are you thinking the stem should be slammed for every bike?

brdog42

Thanks for this tread!

What was the issue with the frame / fork and the resolution? I’m guessing the lower headset bearing was off by one number and then the wrong size? That’s why I like a parts diagram with part #s listed, torque values, etc. ICAN, and others, could easily add this info with a frame set or online.

Symox

Excellent work! May I ask how much you spent for parts total?

Ryan_M

The issue was the fork (and specialized stem spacer) were rubbing on the frame. I did alert ICAN and they promptly asked me for more info and pictures, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I cut some shims from ~0.5mm thick aluminum flashing I had to space the tapered bearings which was quick and easy. The most "complicated" part was finding a template calculator since the mating surfaces are conical. It was easy and fixed the problem so seeking a resolution from the manufacturer hasn't been a priority.

I haven't done a more thorough investigation. I've read there are 7mm and 8mm thick versions of these headset bearings which would be a tidy explanation as to what happened. Maybe their supplier f'd up, or someone missed a digit in a part number, who knows. I really should get to the bottom of this, but again it's low priority and I'm busy.

Ryan_M

Accounting for all the little extra bits like pedals, bottle cages, garmin mount, tire sealant, yada yada... I spent ~$4,800CAD after all taxes and shipping costs.

Without looking to hard the closest commercially available equivalent I could find was the Giant TCR Advanced Pro Disc 1 which would have cost me $6,550CAD after taxes. Then I would have to buy pedals and all the extras etc,, etc.. which would have put the final total to nearly $6,900CAD. However, my bike has presumably better wheels, tires, and saddle, plus carbon handle bars. I'll take those savings!!!