Winfried

Hello,

A friend of mine rides a Dutch bike. The front brake is getting old and squeals when braking, even after adding some Shimano grease.

I can't read the model, and it might be a 41 or 45, ie. on the weaker side.

I'm thinking of ordering the strongest in the line, the C6000.

But before, I need confiirmation from an experienced user that they are 100% compatible, and I'll just need to 1) unhook the cable, 2) replace the brake, and 3) rehook the cable.

Thank you.

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Edit: It appears it's available in two versions (9/10mm axle), so I'll first need to remove it from the bike to check before ordering :-/

squirtdad

your link notes it has a new lever ratio so may not give same braking with out a lever upgrade?

• With new brake lever ratio BL-C6010

interesting called roller but looks like disc but am not all all familiar with these

GamblerGORD53

I would just chuck the whole boat anchor hub. My new roadster came with them. My expectations were confirmed. They are just plain stupid. This bike was soon refitted with my SA drum wheels, like I was planning from the start.
Get a SA drum brake hub, better yet a dyno XL-FDD. My first one has 29,000 miles including 8,100 on tour with a 120 lb bike.
ZERO drag and NO service needed. This old one works 100% the same as my new one.

Winfried

Thanks for the input. The bike already has a dynohub, and I don't want to bother building a new wheel.

Thanks also about the lever that needs to be changed too.

sweeks

The thing that looks like a disc is actually a heat sink (or perhaps more correctly, a radiator).

squirtdad

thanks, always learning here

sweeks

Here's my "winter" bike. The roller brake solved the problem of rapid rim wear from abrasives in the environment (salt and slush). It's not as strong as a well-adjusted V-brake, but adequate for a rear brake.


After a while, the rear brake's heat sink is corroded enough that few observers think it's a disk brake!

sweeks

Assuming the original is also a Shimano roller brake, I think you can make the upgrade. I have 2 bikes with Shimano roller brakes (on the rear); one is the model shown in the image I posted earlier, and the other is an "entry level" model, as Sheldon Brown's site calls it... no heat sink/radiator. They are both interchangeable.
About the heat sink: in normal operation, I have never noticed any heat generation. I think the version with the radiator may not be necessary unless you're doing a lot of downhill braking.

GamblerGORD53

They most certainly DO generate a lot of heat and hold it. Their instructions say do not touch for 30 minutes. LOL.

sweeks

Yeah, 30 minutes seems a bit long; even if it was red-hot it wouldn't take 30 minutes to cool off.

Winfried

Confusingly, the C6000 is available in different models.

Am I correct in understanding the only difference is the washer, and if I order the wrong one, I could always re-use the existing washer from the IM-x model currently on the bike?

• 3/8", M9, M10 : inner diameter of the washer?
• 7,2mm/8,2mm : outter diameter?
• 3.5/4mm = width?

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Edit: Besides being available as plain brakes "-F/R" or "-F/R-DX" (whatever that means), the axle is indeed available in three different diameters (3/8", M9, M10) and the washer in five (!) different thicknesses (3,5,mm, 4mm, 7,2mm, 8,2mm 9,7mm)

Andrew R Stewart 

Unsure about compatibility issues but a couple of comments.

First it is rare that only a cable release and reattachment is only what's needed when replacing the brake, be it a rim acting or hub mounted type. Between wear, "found condition" and wanted function to not assume some bit of cable adjusting, at the least, is going in blind.

Second is that roller brakes are not intended to supply strong braking, unless the conditions make other designs suffer (like a rim brake in the rain). They are nearly only speced on transportation, commuting and treking bikes that side on the slow and sturdy side of the performance fence. These uses typically prioritize all weather efficiency and long life over max stopping abilities. Andy

Winfried

Thanks for the infos.

I know those brakes are not meant for steep descents, but the bike owner didn't have the money to get a higher end cargo bike so had to settle for a Bakfiets.

However, an experienced tinkerer who lives in the Alps told me going from the original IM-4x to the C6000 — the strongest in the lineup — made a serious difference in braking power. Besides, they're compatible, and don't cost an arm.

One site that sells those told me that getting the wrong washers (axle/thickness) doesn't matter if the bike already has Roller Brakes, as you can just reuse the existing parts.

I'll report back when the owner has done the switcheroo.