Indytriumph

I found this sweet, almost cherry 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP Frame and Fork. I was looking for a bike to build, just for the joy of building then riding it. It's a color I like as well. Plus I love touring and doing long rides, so this hits so many buttons for me. They are wanting just under $300 for the bike. Which seems okay with me on the price.
I would like to do a build with a more modern set of components. Is there anything about the bike that would prevent me from doing that? I think it would need a 26.2 seat post, but that is all I really know.

Tom

52telecaster

That's fairly expensive but if it fits you you couldn't buy a custom frame like it for 4 times the price. They are way cool when built nicely.

rgvg

Schwinn catalog specs https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...984Ltwt18.html

Seatpost is 26.6.

There is a show your voyageur page here too https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-voyageur.html

I have a non SP 1989 19" but I wish I could find a 21" one.

Indytriumph

I should have proofread before posting. Also thank you for the link, I can get lost in there for days!

The Golden Boy 

Seatpost is 27.2. I have an 84 SP with a 27.2 Suntour Superbe post in it out in the garage right now.

The Golden Boy 

IMO- $300 is a bit steep for a VSP frame and fork. HOWEVER- it is Columbus SL/SP and that's cool. I have an 84 as well. It is a great riding bike- it does handle differently than any of my other tourers- It takes a few miles to get used to it after riding any of the others- but after that it's smooth as anything! I think that's got more to do with the seat tube angle more than anything else.

The other thing that is important is that the fork is very narrow at the crown and VERY VERY narrow between the canti bosses in the front. Like for real, 50mm. That seriously limits what size tires can go on there- without deflating- AND it limits your rims- especially if you're planning on using 700C rims- you may need to make judicious choices with what brakes you use.

For your enjoyment- here's the Dealer pages from the 84 catalog. Save these.

Piff 

Prior to purchasing, just make sure you reallllllllly know that the bike frame is the right one for you. Standover, reach, trail. Last thing you want to do is build a bike up a have to sell it because the top tube is too long/short, the trail is too high/low, etc.

Indytriumph

Thank you, I will do that.

mstateglfr 

Ignore the '$300 is expensive' comments. It isnt expensive. It isnt cheap, but it is also hardly expensive. This group will also spend $60 on a NOS bolt that says 'campy' on it even when one for less than $1 at the hardware store is not only available, but better made too.

If the frame is in as good condition as you mention and it fits you, go build it and have fun. Nothing will keep you from modernizing that bike- you could build it with 2x11sp, 3x9sp, or whatever else you want.
And since it was originally 27" wheels, you can toss 700c on with a little fatter tire due to the extra room and adjust the brakes to compensate for the rim height change.

52telecaster

Well put!

fender1

True and also untrue. People decide what is "valuable" to them with different criteria.......

Switching from 27" to 700c wheels with this model can be very problematic. I had an 83' that only 2 types of canti brakes would work for the 700c conversion. As TheGoldenBoy mentioned above, the front fork spacing is super narrow and will not allow the use of any modern canti brake or v-brakes. The original brakes MAY give you enough adjustability but they may not. Also if you use a modern, 700c rim that is wider, it will add to the difficulty. I was able to run 32mm tires and fenders on mine but there was not much more room for larger tires. If you went without you could ge t35mm, maybe 38mm which are now considered on the "smaller" side by folks who regularly see "gravel" bikes with 700x42 as factory OEM.

To the OP, I would try and haggle the price down as much as I could. That way you can plow some extra dollars in to any upgrades you feel you might need. I would also suggest building it as cheap as you can and riding it for good bit before doing any upgrades. That way, you have a better understanding if anything truly needs to be changed.

This is a similar model for sale on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15519927423...Bk9SR_aH5vT6YA

fender1

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...t-touring.html

These are the brakes you need.

Ross200

Shimano CX-50 Canti brakes should have adjustability to work. Some here have used them on Paramount touring frames with narrow(vintage) post spacing to go to 700 rims.

Voyageur SP is a fine riding bike-at least mine has been for 38 years.

Lbxpdx

I just took my 85 out for spin yesterday. It really is a comfy bike. When I bought mine this summer, two were available. 27” wheels with a 23” frame was too big for my 31.5” inseam. I’m sure a 22” would have been perfect, but I find the 21” I bought to fit wonderfully.

Lbxpdx

I will second that. I found the seat tube angle to be a bit aggressive for me so I picked up a VO Grand Cru that had a fair amount of setback.

philbob57

First time I've read that Columbus SL/SP is manganese molybdenum. Everything else I've seen says it's chrome-moly, including marketing material and specs from Columbus.

I wonder if any bike person proof read that Voyageur marketing ...um... material.

The Golden Boy 

I have seen those pages for like 8 years- and never noticed that!!!

Like you- I've always known SL/SP to be CrMo.

Those are from the dealer's catalog- not exactly for "public" consumption.

Lbxpdx

Spirit, Spirit HSS, SL and Life - Niobium is a special steel with Manganese, Chrome, Nickel, Molybdenum and Niobium.