cbrstar

Sorry if this has been asked 1000 times before.

I'm trying to get my 80's Kuwahara 10 speed road bike up and running again, and would like to grease the wheel hubs.

Which grease would be most recommended? I don't need anything fancy, and currently I have either Lucas heavy duty wheel bearing grease. Or Ultra Slick extreme synthetic sport grease at home. Would either of those be good enough?

Also do I need to buy the Suntour socket to remove the freewheel? Or can I re-grease the rear hub by leaving the freewheel on?

Thank you for your help.

mrv 

Howdy - hopefully one of the pros will respond, as I'm quite curious what they will say.
As for myself, I have been using lithium automotive wheel bearing grease on my old bike bearings (wheels, BB, headset). No ill effects I can discern on heavy old touring / beater bikes.
I just purchased some official bike shop bearing grease for a refurb project of an old Trek. I'll see how it goes or if I can tell a difference.

As far as removing the freewheel, I think things would be easieir with the freewheel removed. But if you have enough space to work on the bearings with the freewheel in place, I think - think - you should be able to remove the axle by only loosening the non-drive side, then drop everything out the drive side. I don't know how tight things will get when you go to re-pack the drive side. Maybe sheldonbrown.com has some images.
Give an update when you can. Thanks.
Cheers!

Gresp15C

Also not a pro here, but the best advice I got on the subject was to get one of the little Dualco grease dispensers. It makes the work a lot easier than my old method of trying to spread the grease with a screwdriver and my finger.

I bought a tube of marine bearing grease from Home Depot, that will probably last me a lifetime, after I finally depleted my old tube of Phil Woods.

cbrstar

Thanks MRV, and Gresp15c. I was thinking that marine grease might be better as it might not wash away as easily?.

I remember bike shops using this fancy translucent red grease back in the 90's. (I've been out of this for a while lol) It was also the same kind I would use on the head stem bearings on my Honda motorcycle. But I have no idea what it's called, as it doesn't seem to exist anymore. Any ideas what it might be?

ThermionicScott 

You're not thinking of red multipurpose lithium grease, are you? I use that stuff all over my VWs, but haven't tried it on my bikes.

Bike Gremlin

Short answer: lithium soap based grease from a car store. NLGI2 thickness is the sweet spot IMO. Without any EP additives. Detailed explanation of types of greases with good and bad sides of each:

The best bicycle bearing grease

cbrstar

I'm not completely sure, but after searching these forums I might have been thinking of a product that was called "Bull Shot". But I have to wonder if it was just repackaged automotive grease?

Thanks for the link Slaninar, very informative.

nfmisso

Boat trailer wheel bearing grease is what I use for wheels, BB, headsets, pedal threads and almost everything else that needs a dab of grease.

ExpertTools

I've always used green synthetic grease. Either Phils, (Phil Woods), or Park.

JanMM

Red grease is faster, isn't it?
Any grease is better than no grease or old, funky, dirty grease.

lostarchitect 

I usually use Phil Wood grease, but I think almost any grease is fine. I used regular automotive grease from the auto parts shop for years and never had issues.

davidad

Any wheel bearing grease from the auto store.

Sixty Fiver

I use marine bearing grease... it is slick and resists washout.

You can pay more for Phil's, Park or any bike specific grease but you are just going to be wasting your money.

GravelMN

I have had good luck with SuperLube Synthetic Grease. It is light but stays put, can handle wet conditions and doesn't get thin in hot conditions or thick in the cold. Costs about the same as most synthetic greases and comes in small tubes, 1# tubs, or cartridges. Its also compatible with other synthetic and non-synthetic greases.

drlogik 

cbrstar,

Either one should work as long as the Ultra Slick is the grease and not their assembly lube product. Eventually you should get some dedicated bike grease (Phil's, Finish Line, Shimano, etc) but that, to, is a huge discussion topic here. The main thing with bearings is when you overhaul, do it right, get it sparkling clean and lightly grease. No need to goop it in there. As far as frequency, I repack bearings once a year. If I had the time I'd probably do it every three or four months, but that's just me. The frequency is also a hotly discussed topic.

As far as the freewheel, unless it's already running rough I'd squirt some Phil's Tenacious oil in it (if you have that) or Tri-Flow liquid. If the freewheel is gunked up, I'd get a can of Tri-flow spray and spray-flush it out while you slowly spin the freewheel. That's the quick and simple method.

spokevalley

-Would you be thinking of Slick Honey? Buzzy's USA - Premium Bicycle Lubricant

Randybb

I use cheap marine grease from autoparts stores to grease all bearings, plus seatposts, pedals, freewheels, bb shell, random screws, etc. I've found it really holds up, even after riding 100s of miles through gross winter snow/salt/slush.

PolarBear007

Chalk up another vote for marine grease. Used it for everything from snowmobile suspensions, snowblower wheel lube, all things on my bicycle(s), etc.

I like how it is moisture/water resistant - that's great - and also how it tends to "stick" and stay where it's put. However, it also is a good grease in general terms. There may be better quality greases available, but i really like the moisture/water resistance.

Bike Gremlin

I ride year long in winter, autumn and nice weather. Regular lithium grease from auto store stays in hubs during the whole autumn/winter time, doesn't wash out. However, after that, I clean and re-lube.

For those using marine grease - how often do you re-grease?

79pmooney

If you want trouble-free, long lasting grease that water won't touch, that 's it. Perfect for bearing subject to Portland's rainy winter. (I didn't know of it at the time, but also for snow country's salted roads.

If you want a grease that had minimum rolling resistance, boat trailer grease isn't it. If you want a grease that cleans up quickly with soap and water, again, that 's not it.

I use it for headsets and bottom brackets and my commuter wheels. Phil Wood or equivalent for my good road wheels. BEen known to use lithiums also. (Most of my road wheels are now sealed so I have gotten a little out of touch.)

Ben

79pmooney

I opened up a hub that saw two Portland winters fearing the worst. The grease was still the original blue except a fine row of black from bearing wear exactly at the balls. I stopped routinely overhauling hubs.

(That grease is designed to be in a hub at highway speed then submerged under 4 feet of salt water. Later submerged again, then 20 minutes later towed at highway speed. There isn't much that happens on a bicycle that can touch it.)

Ben

eusebio

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Randybb

After the winter I strip down the whole bike and clean/regrease everything. I put in a lot of miles during our long heavy winters and things are usually dirty but not corroded or dried out. I'm mainly worried about salt damage on my steel frame more than anything else. I bet I could get another season out of the screws/bearings if I wanted to. And I now use sealed cartridge bearings on my winter wheels anyway.