Ordering a replacement SRAM Chain, do I include the connector in the pin count?
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Ordering a replacement SRAM Chain, do I include the connector in the pin count?
I have an SRAM chain that measures 114 links WITHOUT the Powerlink connector……i.e.,116 with the chain installed…
I can buy the chain either 114 or 120 links…..when SRAM specifies 114 length, is that with or without the connector plate included in their count?
Thanks
I can buy the chain either 114 or 120 links…..when SRAM specifies 114 length, is that with or without the connector plate included in their count?
Thanks
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...fitting a new chain is usually accomplished by holding the old one next to your new chain, marking the new one with a sharpie, then shortening the new one to match the old one. I think you should buy the long one, although every chain I've ever purchased comes in a standard length.
...fitting a new chain is usually accomplished by holding the old one next to your new chain, marking the new one with a sharpie, then shortening the new one to match the old one. I think you should buy the long one, although every chain I've ever purchased comes in a standard length.
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...fitting a new chain is usually accomplished by holding the old one next to your new chain, marking the new one with a sharpie, then shortening the new one to match the old one. I think you should buy the long one, although every chain I've ever purchased comes in a standard length.
...fitting a new chain is usually accomplished by holding the old one next to your new chain, marking the new one with a sharpie, then shortening the new one to match the old one. I think you should buy the long one, although every chain I've ever purchased comes in a standard length.
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I’m trying to avoid buying a chain breaking tool to reduce the 120 link chain if I can help it. My chain break tool is not new and might damage a narrower 11 speed chain. It’s a new bike and the chain length as installed is correct…
SRAM sells the chain in both 114 and 120…
Just looking for an answer on how SRAM makes the count…
SRAM sells the chain in both 114 and 120…
Just looking for an answer on how SRAM makes the count…
Last edited by 55tele; 05-26-21 at 09:07 AM.
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You're gonna most likely need a chain tool for the 114 too. I always have to cut them down, for sure on a road bike.
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...if the chain that's on there now is the right size, it works fine. If you want to type out how to correctly size and install a chain for this guy, feel free. I am too lazy to do that.
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I would think that SRAM would include the quick link as part of the count for the completed chain. It simply makes sense that way.
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I'll bet you can order a chain tool from the same place you order the chain. Probably get free shipping....
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Ultimately your chain has to have an even number of links.
4, 6, 8, 10, etc...
If you are buying a 114 link chain, that would be the number of links provided to make a full loop.
The exception would be "half-links" used with single-speed configurations. And, even in that case, your chain purchased will have an even number of links and will be cut to size.
4, 6, 8, 10, etc...
If you are buying a 114 link chain, that would be the number of links provided to make a full loop.
The exception would be "half-links" used with single-speed configurations. And, even in that case, your chain purchased will have an even number of links and will be cut to size.
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link to the store you're buying from?
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…..just gonna order or get the 120 link chain from my LBS…
Park says dont use my CT3…..so I ordered a 3.3 and the fancy pliers to remove the master link…
Park says dont use my CT3…..so I ordered a 3.3 and the fancy pliers to remove the master link…
Last edited by 55tele; 05-26-21 at 09:15 PM.
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if your lbs goes the extra mile for customers, they might size it upon your request.
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If the OP is asking the questions he is asking how do you think he's gonna know if it's the right size? What he should do is learn how to do the sizing so he knows it's correct. Out of the container nearly all chains will need to be sized. It's easier to put it on the bike and size it the right way than to find the space to put a dirty, used chain and then line up a new one next to it. I can't remember ever doing that. If the OP wants to let me know what kind of bike/drivetrain he has I'd be happy to take 60 seconds to educate him on the correct method.
#15
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Chains can only be joined when the total length, with the quick link is an even number of inches. A 57 inch chain has 114 links. If you have the frame's chain stay length, use the formula at the park tool website. Trying to make do without a decent chain breaker is not wise.
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One or two links more than optimal is unlikely to have any noticeable impact on your riding, and if it does, you can get a chain tool at that point (or ask your LBS). If you have 114 links now, and you don't want to cut a new chain, you should be fine with 116. Note on the other hand that two links too short can lead to serious damage (a friend crunched a chainstay that way, when he shortened his chain too much and accidentally shifted into the large/large combination).
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Guys,
I appreciate all the responses, but no one ever answered the question…..
The 116 links (including the master link) on this chain is what came on the bike when new. It shifts fine. I’m not looking for a tutorial on how to fit a chain. Because SRAM offers their 1130 chain in 114 link and 120 link length and because I wanted to avoid buying a new chain break tool, and because my chain is 114 links excluding the master link, I wanted to know if the SRAM chain that is advertised as 114 links is 1) 114 links including the master link or 2) is it 114 links plus the 2 on the master link, which would make 116….
It is moot now, as I have a new $40.00 chain break tool coming, and I will just buy the 120 link version and shorten it….
simple as that….
Thanks
I appreciate all the responses, but no one ever answered the question…..
The 116 links (including the master link) on this chain is what came on the bike when new. It shifts fine. I’m not looking for a tutorial on how to fit a chain. Because SRAM offers their 1130 chain in 114 link and 120 link length and because I wanted to avoid buying a new chain break tool, and because my chain is 114 links excluding the master link, I wanted to know if the SRAM chain that is advertised as 114 links is 1) 114 links including the master link or 2) is it 114 links plus the 2 on the master link, which would make 116….
It is moot now, as I have a new $40.00 chain break tool coming, and I will just buy the 120 link version and shorten it….
simple as that….
Thanks
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Sorry, I misunderstood your initial phrasing.
The master link is only one link. As others have pointed out, you must have an even number of links in your chain. If the chain actually came as 114 links plus the master link, you wouldn't be able to join the two ends with the master link, which wouldn't be very logical. So the chain as it comes is 113 links plus a master link to join them, and if you need 116 links then you made the right choice by ordering the 120 link chain and the chain tool.
The master link is only one link. As others have pointed out, you must have an even number of links in your chain. If the chain actually came as 114 links plus the master link, you wouldn't be able to join the two ends with the master link, which wouldn't be very logical. So the chain as it comes is 113 links plus a master link to join them, and if you need 116 links then you made the right choice by ordering the 120 link chain and the chain tool.
#19
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A chain cannot have 114 links without the master link. It can have 113 or some other odd number. A chain must have an even number of links with the master link included, or it can't be joined. Never count links. Measure the full length, between the pin centers. A chain without the quick link will measure 56.5 inches, if it has 113 links, plus the quick link. Spend some time at the park tool website.
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I always recommend going straight to the source when you're getting various answers on something like this. Shoot SRAM an email with your question. Most mfrs. are happy to give you info about their products which keeps the customer happy and coming back for more product in the future.
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I tried to contact SRAM…..there is no way to ask a question…..their site circle jerks you through FAQs….
The SRAM master link comes in two pieces, each has a pin (link) that fits the opposite plate, so it indeed has TWO pins…..the chain is terminated at each end with the inner plates and rollers…..the master link should really be called a master outer plate assembly…..
Im all set now….thank you
The SRAM master link comes in two pieces, each has a pin (link) that fits the opposite plate, so it indeed has TWO pins…..the chain is terminated at each end with the inner plates and rollers…..the master link should really be called a master outer plate assembly…..
Im all set now….thank you
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EDIT-- I was a bit late with this reply. I'll leave it anyway.
Like the other replies mentioned, chains have to have an even number of links. The master link is just the outer plate link. There has to be an even number of inner plate links and outer plate links. (I never thought about this before, but now it's obvious, but I still diagrammed a 4-link chain to make sure I was thinking it through.) Chains sold with a master link have inner plates on both ends. So: it's 114 or 120 including the master link.
~~~~
I was surprised that the last Ultegra chain was exactly the right length. I used to usually cut off 3 or 5 half links on chains before adding my separate master link. I'm running 11-32 and 50/34, so that affects the length. l think that being one link pair too short "should" work, but I'd want to carefully check the big-big combo on the bike stand before trying to ride! A too-short chain could jam.
I've reused master links that are supposedly one-time only, if I had to remove the chain from the bike. They've always been okay after that, not coming loose. It's not a guarantee from me, though, make your own decision.
I used the Park CT-5 mini tool on my 11-speed chain. It doesn't quite have enough leverage to push out the pin without holding the body of the tool with an adjustable wrench. Those 11-speed pins are much tighter than older chains! I wonder if I'd be able to use the CT-5 by itself if I brought it on a ride.
I got the CT-3.2 a few years ago, and it's so much better than the mini tool. Worth getting.
Like the other replies mentioned, chains have to have an even number of links. The master link is just the outer plate link. There has to be an even number of inner plate links and outer plate links. (I never thought about this before, but now it's obvious, but I still diagrammed a 4-link chain to make sure I was thinking it through.) Chains sold with a master link have inner plates on both ends. So: it's 114 or 120 including the master link.
~~~~
I was surprised that the last Ultegra chain was exactly the right length. I used to usually cut off 3 or 5 half links on chains before adding my separate master link. I'm running 11-32 and 50/34, so that affects the length. l think that being one link pair too short "should" work, but I'd want to carefully check the big-big combo on the bike stand before trying to ride! A too-short chain could jam.
I've reused master links that are supposedly one-time only, if I had to remove the chain from the bike. They've always been okay after that, not coming loose. It's not a guarantee from me, though, make your own decision.
I used the Park CT-5 mini tool on my 11-speed chain. It doesn't quite have enough leverage to push out the pin without holding the body of the tool with an adjustable wrench. Those 11-speed pins are much tighter than older chains! I wonder if I'd be able to use the CT-5 by itself if I brought it on a ride.
I got the CT-3.2 a few years ago, and it's so much better than the mini tool. Worth getting.
Last edited by rm -rf; 05-26-21 at 05:20 PM.
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If the OP is asking the questions he is asking how do you think he's gonna know if it's the right size? What he should do is learn how to do the sizing so he knows it's correct. Out of the container nearly all chains will need to be sized. It's easier to put it on the bike and size it the right way than to find the space to put a dirty, used chain and then line up a new one next to it. I can't remember ever doing that. If the OP wants to let me know what kind of bike/drivetrain he has I'd be happy to take 60 seconds to educate him on the correct method.
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I can't imagine what I posted that caused 3alarmer to have that reaction, honestly. I'm short and to the point and I have a metric sh*t ton of experience. I don't take sh*t from anyone. Maybe it's a cumulative thing w/ him. I don't want or need his 'help'. Maybe someday I can offer assistance to him...or he to me. Of course my offer to the OP stands.