gugie 

Andy and I have discussed this ride, it's 100km from his house to Vernonia, and the question came up "how do we get back?" For those not wanting to do a double metric century (aka a brevet in rando terms), the plan is to pre-position whatever vehicles we'd need the night before for a drive back as we've done in the past:



For those needing additional motivation, here's the reward at the end of the ride:

Bluetrane2028

I have just exactly the bike for this. Perhaps two, really. Both bikes are ones I've had on hand for a long while, but for one reason or another I ignored... sadly in an exposed to the element (no door on the front) carport, and rust is an issue to some degree or another on each.

The nicer:
A (I'm guessing, I'm no historian) early 80's Schwinn mountain bike. Double chainring. This was a "hey there's a bike for free" post on Facebook a couple years ago, figured "why not" and then got discouraged when the LBS said it was more than just some cables and go. Didn't have tools to go farther at the time, now I do. I think a set of bar end shifters, brake levers and some gravel type drop bars would be GREAT. The metals used must not have been horrible because nothing is stuck and most everything looks good, just some rust on fasteners and some other small parts. Should be dead simple to resurrect with some new bearings and grease. If the budget doesn't allow for the drop bar conversion, I'll submit with the original flats, convert later.

The worse:
A Schwinn Varsity that I had setup as a flat bar single speed, rusted quickly into disrepair in that carport... just didn't have room for it in my shed. Sad too, I really liked riding that thing.

Wheel set is completely trash, I hope the frame isn't too wasted. Everything looks like it was on the titanic but nothing is frozen. Will evaporust everything that will fit into a small tub and Naval Jelly the rest. Already have a "new" wheelset (with a 6 speed freewheel) that I sourced for about $50, biggest remaining spend will be a derailleur and shifter, will run it as a 1x6. If all goes well, it'll look better after the restoration than it did before.

There's a third bike that I may be restoring, but it's not a classic.

2012-ish Trek Skye. Found on Craigslist, no wheels. I have an extra wheelset lying about, just need a cassette and a chain. Maybe a shifter if I decide to go 8 speed instead of the stock 7. Will probably be beyond $100 because of the shifter but not by much. I've really started to like the Trek 4300 that was nominally assigned to my wife, so if I keep riding it, she'll need something just for her.

Fourth bike I will be working on is my Trek 1400. Rides, shifts, stops just fine but there's a worrying amount of corrosion on the frame... kind of want to strip and see just how bad it is, to confirm that it's still safe to use. I'm not a light man...

As for putting in the 100km or 100 miles... must this be in the same day? I easily ride that much a week with my son. One day, would be more challenging. I could physically do it, I'm sure, but I don't have a lot of time away from him that I can spend riding.

BFisher

@Andy_K, Way to think economically on that saddle rail restoration, and I did in fact hit that chain with the wire wheel on my bench grinder. Tetanus is a go.

One of the brake cable ends was missing, so I had to swap in one of my used spares. Speaking of cables I planned on using both original shift cables,


but the rear began to come apart at the lever radius, so another used spare there. The front is still the original, but it may go at any moment. I am using original cable crimp-ons, too.


As suspected the front tube's valve stem was gone.


The rear tube had a huge gash in it's stem, so two used tubes I had here went in, along with two well weathered Kenda 27x1 1/4 tires, as the ones on the bike were downright dangerous.

jdawginsc 

OK. So after looking back through 200 receipts I have a few questions...
1. Anything extracted from the box of crap is considered free correct? (We don't have to include a pro-rata shipping premium based on the weight and price?)
2. If something was bought as part of a ridonculously cheap lot, do we use market value minus crappiness deduction, or divide the lot by the number of crappy parts we have received...?
3. If we used 1/2 bottle of crappy walmart nail polish to cover rust so we didn't have to see it because we were frustrated that even evaporust has its kryptonite, do we pro-rate the portions of said crappy polish?
4. Do tetanus shots count as part of the budget? Uber rides home?

Just kidding in 3/4, sort of...1/2 are semi-serious questions...

nlerner

Hmm, maybe the coast will be clear for my annual trip west this year to coincide with this challenge, especially if I can’t make it out for Cino (which is likely, given the timing). I’d have to borrow something from the Altelier if it needs to be vintage. And we’d have to do the full 200k, beer included.

jdawginsc 

I am going to assume this is NOT safe to ride...

BFisher

So, with everything as clean as I care to make it, the bike is back together and waiting for it's first ride. I googled and it looks like this may be a '79 Rampar R1-T in Sage Green. As equipped it weighs a stout 31.5 pounds. The saddle is actually not bad - a Forte Classic with relief channel. Some pics:



I invested a meager $15 initially, and I'll defer to popular opinion on the value of my add-ons, which are:
1. Used brake pads - 4 pc.
2. Used brake cable - 1 pc.
3. Used shift cable - 1 pc.
4. Used Kenda tire - 2 pc.
5. Used inner tube - 2 pc.

BFisher

Hose clamp?

jdawginsc 

I thought about a clamp, then I figured out it tilts 20 degrees to the left.

I don't think the chrome paint is going to save this one...

jdawginsc 

Pads: 0.18 per pad unless it is dry and hard, in which case .26 per pad;
brake cable + shift cable = I call gratis; risk of infected wound justifies freebie.
tubes 2 @ 0.68 if they hold air, 0.34 if they don't;
the Kenda needs careful calculation based on (estimated miles of destruction remaining/overly inflated expectation of tread life (10,000 miles)) X (number of nub thingies remaining/number of nub thingies estimated to have existed) X (original price/ that year's CPI)

gugie 

The Routens hasn't been ridden since you last threw your leg over it, the mud from riding across the grassy field is still on it. I might even replace the 60 year old brake pads for you this time...

BFisher

@jdawginsc, thanks for the analysis. Here is a shot that shows how the current tires compare to the set that came on the bike.


The brake pads are marked SCS For Alloy & Steel and received a face sanding prior to install.

ollo_ollo

OK, I'm in with no wiggle room at $100. This Follis looks to be 1 or 2 models above their entry level.(@juvela will surely know) Has a Stronglight 49D crankset and bar end shifters but probably not 531 tubing. Wheels and tires looking pretty good. Saddle is shabby and gel to boot, but should get me thru 100 kilometers. Will be a nice ride after a good clean, lube, and adjust. Will take some more Follis pics before clean up.

Also putting up pics of the Super Course I got for $140 yesterday because we all like pics! Were it not for the attractive (Iris, Tris, Fris??) leather saddle and Soubitez Bottle generator set keeping the price up, she could have been a Clunker Contender, but will get a refurb anyway. Don

My Follis Clunker

My new, OLD, Super Course

RiddleOfSteel

Well, as fast as I was in, I am out. My left knee let me know to keep with the SPD-SL pedals and not try any funny business, and that was the next day, after doing just 5.3 miles. So by the letter of the law, I am unable to participate. The bike was good enough to ride 100 miles, so I'm confident in saying it would have done it in a straight shot. Not me, however (and not even with the pedals and proper saddle and bar setup).

Looking at the prospect of cleaning it up and doing a full refurbishment with original components, the rear wheels' two big gouges on the brake track basically put a huge damper on that, as a 27" wheeled bike has limited market appeal (and swapping in a matching rim or getting a new wheelset is money I'd like to not spend at this "level"). I'd feel terrible giving up on a bike with paint in excellent shape and just trying to get the $100 out of it that I had into it, letting it be someone else's project. So I did the only thing a bike enthusiast could do and disassembled it. Can you guess how much that frame, fork, and headset weigh? I was thinking 3600-3800g (3000g is high-end race bike steel weight at this size, ~3500g is upper/high-end touring bike weight at this size). Chromed elements, upper-mid-level, "double butted 331 chromoly" frame with a hi-ten fork. Welp...it's 3568g. 44-45cm chainstays, tons of tire clearance, chrome, 25" size, all of it. That is a hair more, if not essentially the same as my former 1974 Schwinn Paramount of the same size. You've got to be kidding me!

Rest assured, that while I may not be participating, this Fuji will be given all the love and a boatload of modern(ized) components to truly let its potential be known. [Paint is being waxed right now]

Proof of 42mm tire-fitting concept:

jdawginsc 

Wait a second...are you trying to slip something of that high quality onto the bike...???? Triple the price estimate above for tires...it is now $1.17 flat rate estimate.
And by making the pads more useful and less dangerous, I am editing my estimate
Pads: 0.18 per pad unless it is dry and hard, in which case .26 per pad; or if sanded and made safer, 0.43 per pad...

And you are welcome for my attempt at levity and a useless pricing analysis!

bikemig 

I'm a sucker for old French bikes as well. I think your bike is the 072 GL which is one up from the bottom. The next bike up--the 172--had a Reynolds main frame.

I am fixing up a late 70s Peugeot UO 10 for the clunker contest that I picked up for $40. It's pretty much ready to go but I need to clear up some free time to ride it. I also need to trim the brake cables. I have no idea why I installed them that high.

ollo_ollo

Thanks @bikemig, I had managed to reduce my herd by a few + deported 2 more to Florida, then in a weak moment, I bought a French tandem, and now these 2. At least it keeps us busy and out of trouble. That Fuji ROS has would be perfect for CINO! If he starts physical therapy now he could be good to go by late August. Or maybe not, but still has a great bike. Don

Unca_Sam

There is no requirement to do it all in one go. Some of us do, some of us don't. I did it in one day for the challenge of it, since I had an actual road bike. 100kms in one ride on a cruiser or 3 speed or ATB? No, thanks. I was (and low key still am) considering finding a cheap entry level ATB from the early 90's and doing as much of the 100kms off-road or doing technical skill drills as reasonable. It sounds like you'll be able to get a few of your projects up and running, and that you'll have a very enjoyable 100 (200, 300, 400?!) kms of riding with your son!

Unca_Sam

Friendly Costumed Superhero Cost Accountant here to answer your plea for help!

1. Based on my understanding of the Rules and Bylaws of the Box O' Crap, you are strongly encouraged to add parts in exchange for the parts you harvest. This would follow along with the principle of a like-kind exchange, where the value of the parts harvested is equal to the cost of the parts you put in. Undoubtedly, the parts you placed in had a cost to you, but do you have those receipts?
2. Purchasing assets in a lot would still require that you allocate the purchase price per item (or class of items). The good news is that the allocation is up to you so long as it's reasonable.
3. For your example of nail polish, the conservative thing to do would be to allocate the entire cost of thepurchase to the project, unless there's a likelihood that the polish will be used for another project before becoming unusable. Evaporust, naval jelly, and vinegar are examples where the initial outlay has a cost, but the item has a useful life past the project.
4. Capitalizing workforce benefits into the cost of inventory is a generally accepted accounting principle, so yeah, you could include the cost of the tetanus booster. However, a tetanus booster is only needed every 10 years, so you would only include a 10th of the cost for this year, divided by however many bike projects you work this year. I'm willing to say that the amortized cost of the shot is likely de-minimus and will not materially affect the cost of your clunker. Your uber ride is a simple no, because it has no bearing on keeping the bike running.

gugie 

Might need to consult with you on taxes someday...

tyler_fred

Hey Narhay Unca_Sam
I’d like to know why this isn’t the Clunker 104.2 Challenge to allow for inflation?

Glad to know I’m not working on a bamboo bike..
Have you seen the price of wood these days?!?!

BFisher

Alright! First ride in on the Rampar Clunker today. It was a down the river and back with a mix of road and MUP. The bike actually wasn't terrible. I did speak too soon earlier when I said the saddle wasn't bad, though. A bit of mileage showed me that it is too narrow for me, but a challenge is a challenge and I've ridden worse. The ride totaled 37.8 kilometers.
From the cockpit:


The sun is out in force today, so I grabbed some shade for a quick pic:


And a mileage verification shot:

ollo_ollo

Also found this listing on e-Bay: 70s Follis 072GL 12 Speed French Road Bike | eBay Everything except red color matches my bike, so Follis 072 GL it is. Seller was asking $209.99, but accepted best offer.

Andy_K 

I think the answers to these questions depend on how heavily you bribe the judge. With insufficient tribute, you may find yourself relegated and stripped of any honor and glory you would have attained. Certainly, you will not be eligible for any cash prizes. (This last part is OK, since there are no cash prizes.)

My approach in the past has been to apply a secret formula that calculates the strictness of my adherence to the rules as a product of how close I am to going over budget. With $50 left if the budget, I'll count the 34 cents I paid for dropout screws. With $2 left in the budget, I might arbitrarily decide that a set of used tires are worth $2. With nothing left in the budget, I might try to argue that paint is a cleaning supply.

At the end of the day, it's kind of like the rules for Eroica. If you ask, the rules are strictly applied (or not, depending on @Narhay's whim). If you don't ask, you can probably get away with gluing toe clips onto your shoes and riding with clipless pedals -- it's been done. Ultimately, I think the rules are there for your enjoyment.

jdawginsc 

I like your thinking other than the bribe...I prefer flattery.

unca Sam’s accounting above is awesome in principle but my concern is that I won’t be able to cheat sufficiently enough.

i think I have a plan though...
1. Change the saddle because I cannot ride in a circle with a bent saddle.
2. Change the tires because dry rot is not cool, and my projects still need to complete with me alive.
3. Reuse a few cable housings and cables though I got them for $1 cable from China new.
4. Any extra housing will come from the 3 m clearance item from CRC several months ago.
5. The pedals I am not sure how to handle that one. I might to find that lot receipt...or cheat and say somebody gave them to me...oops just outed myself...

I am wondering if I will lose points because I removed the ubiquitous cat eye computer. Might put it back on non operationally for the authentic look.

i am glad that an Uber does not count...