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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

Old 04-14-22, 03:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
Go grab that red Schwinn with the dropped bars and the aero levers and join the Schwinn S(ch)weep?
Well, then I'd be afraid I'd develop the Schwinn Flop Schweat.
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Old 04-14-22, 03:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
If you are able to build up 20 bikes within the $108 budget and ride them 5 kilometers each, does that count?
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Old 04-14-22, 03:17 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
If you are able to build up 20 bikes within the $108 budget and ride them 5 kilometers each, does that count?
That would indeed be worthy of an honorable mention once I compile the best of the worst.
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Old 04-14-22, 03:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post

I just perused my local CL. There are a few good candidates available for around $75. A couple of them look like they don't need anything but elbow grease and tires.
This challenge gives you an excuse to buy that cheapie bike you never would have bought otherwise . . .

I picked up that late 70s Peugeot UO 10 I'm using this year because it was only $40 and it's a good riding bike. My first good bike was an 80s UO 10 which I bought in London.
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Old 04-14-22, 08:31 PM
  #30  
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And it begins

I retrieved the rustiest LeTour in the state and went to work this evening after supper. The seatpost came out first before I put the bike on the stand. I am so grateful that all the parts came off without drama or trauma this time! There IS a little bend in the left seat stay, but if it bothers me enough I'll figure out a way to straighten it - or maybe I'll just run it as-is. As bad as it looks, I think everything, including the chain, will work okay once it's cleaned and de-rusted.





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Old 04-14-22, 08:36 PM
  #31  
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It is good that solvents and other cleaning products are not budget items. I tried several toxic mixes to remove gel saddle ooze from my hands after transporting the Impact Pro.


Use gloves.
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Old 04-15-22, 06:41 AM
  #32  
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^^^^^

That is the saddest saddle I’ve ever seen
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Old 04-15-22, 07:21 AM
  #33  
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Here are some 'before' / as purchased pics.









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Originally Posted by hyperflame View Post
Ok i have a protable gen.i can plug my charger into and charge the batt while riding my bikeany body know what may happen
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Old 04-15-22, 07:32 AM
  #34  
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I spent a few hours washing, cleaning, and going through the bike. Repacked hubs, bottom bracket, headset. Put on a more 'mountain friendly' used cassette (the original 12-21 doesn't cut it around here!), and a known good low mileage chain from my parts box. I used the pedals from the bike that I swapped the pedals from the Paramount to. I put the toe clips and Paramount straps back on, they were on the bike when I bought it, so I am not considering them an expense. I also put in one bar end plug.
Financially I am at:
$69.55, initial bike purchase
$10, pedals
$5, used cassette (thrift store price)
$5, used chain (thrift store price)
$.25, used bar end plug
Total: $89.80


Gonna be taking it out on its initial test run later this morning.












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Originally Posted by hyperflame View Post
Ok i have a protable gen.i can plug my charger into and charge the batt while riding my bikeany body know what may happen

Last edited by hazetguy; 04-16-22 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Correcting bad previous math and total.
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Old 04-15-22, 07:35 AM
  #35  
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Forgot the "in progress" pics. I only took a few, as I was more interested in getting the work done than taking pics.
What I did find interesting is that the seat tube and chainstays were tack welded to the bottom bracket. Seems a bit strange, but looks factory to me.





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Originally Posted by hyperflame View Post
Ok i have a protable gen.i can plug my charger into and charge the batt while riding my bikeany body know what may happen
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Old 04-15-22, 09:40 AM
  #36  
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As luck would have it I encountered a possible candidate at an estate sale yesterday morning after reading this thread.
Mid-70's Schwinn Traveler III for $45.
Nothing fab, but is in the proper size category.
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Old 04-15-22, 10:14 AM
  #37  
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I purchased a Peugeot UO8 10 years ago for $65.00, do I need to adjust for inflation?
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Old 04-15-22, 11:04 AM
  #38  
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Got in a hair over 18 miles this morning (it's on the Strava C&V feed). Leisurely, some faster paced, several stops for pics, minor adjustments, chatting with neighbors I haven't seen for months, etc. For having such "lower end" components, the bike felt pretty nice and smooth. There are a couple things I want to check out and readjust before the next ride, nothing major.
Overall, it was a great day for a ride, and the bike felt good.

At one of my usual turn around spots:


Groundhogs, artistic interpretations, and real:


along a section of the bike path


Yes, I will yield!


At the beginning of a section of the bike path:
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Originally Posted by hyperflame View Post
Ok i have a protable gen.i can plug my charger into and charge the batt while riding my bikeany body know what may happen
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Old 04-15-22, 11:06 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by hazetguy View Post
This year's entry: a Schwinn Paramount PDG2. As shown, as purchased, I negotiated a slightly lower than asking price. Out the door including tax: $69.55
Every year, this contest reminds me just how bad I am at bargain hunting. I was just looking at the "after" pictures of this bike and thinking, "Wait! How is that under $108?"

Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist trying to decide between a "rare" 35 pound Pegasus described in this review with such glowing terms as "durable" and "adequate", an unbranded thing offered as "old steel frame road bike" complete with large rust patches on the seat tube and down tube, an equally rusty Schwinn Suburban 5-speed with the largest front basket I've ever seen, or a Nishiki Japan Champion with stem shifters and turkey levers. And, frankly, all four of those are better than I expected to find. I'm going to look at the rusty old steel frame road bike today and thinking about trying to buy the other three too.
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Old 04-15-22, 11:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by branko_76 View Post
I purchased a Peugeot UO8 10 years ago for $65.00, do I need to adjust for inflation?
If so, you're over budget already!
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Old 04-15-22, 11:29 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
Every year, this contest reminds me just how bad I am at bargain hunting. I was just looking at the "after" pictures of this bike and thinking, "Wait! How is that under $108?"

Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist............
To be totally honest, the main reason I bought the Paramount was because it had a set of Specialized Touring pedals on it, and I wanted those for my Gazelle. It was being sold at the local bike thrift store's "as is, scratch & dent" sale, laying on the ground in their parking lot amongst the other "cast-offs" (bikes missing parts, ok low-middle end bikes, rusty low end stuff, mtb frames, that kind of stuff). I really didn't even pay attention to it / wasn't interested in it until I saw the pedals.
I posted about it here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22444274-post14600.html
I was going to part out and sell the Paramount to get my money back on the pedals. Then I did some measuring and figured the Paramount would be a reasonble size for me, and it would fall within the budgetary constraints of THE CHALLENGE, so what the heck. I just hung it in my basement until THE CHALLENGE was announced. And here we are.

Had I not found the Paramount, once THE CHALLENGE was announced, I was going to buy this Raleigh that's been on the local CL for a while, as I figured it would be a good candidate:
https://asheville.craigslist.org/bik...450639946.html
realigh technium road bike - $45 (ASHEVILLE)

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Originally Posted by hyperflame View Post
Ok i have a protable gen.i can plug my charger into and charge the batt while riding my bikeany body know what may happen
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Old 04-15-22, 12:09 PM
  #42  
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Does buying a project-specific bike tool to service a bb count against the total cost? I think this stupid cruiser bb one piece crank needs another tool I don’t already own.
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Old 04-15-22, 12:44 PM
  #43  
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I don't think you are (bad at hunting bargains). I think there are places in the US that are gold mines for low price, classic/vintage, pieces of poop AND grail barn finds. South Carolina is absolutely not one of them. Then there are those areas where great vintage stuff is available, but in a high demand area. That would be you, Seattle, NY, San Fran, etc...

Boston (old houses and barns), Pennsylvania, Kentucky, NC piedmont/mountains, Florida, Minneapolis seem to be the places.

@Clang finds a bundle everywhere.

Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
Every year, this contest reminds me just how bad I am at bargain hunting. I was just looking at the "after" pictures of this bike and thinking, "Wait! How is that under $108?"

Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist trying to decide between a "rare" 35 pound Pegasus described in this review with such glowing terms as "durable" and "adequate", an unbranded thing offered as "old steel frame road bike" complete with large rust patches on the seat tube and down tube, an equally rusty Schwinn Suburban 5-speed with the largest front basket I've ever seen, or a Nishiki Japan Champion with stem shifters and turkey levers. And, frankly, all four of those are better than I expected to find. I'm going to look at the rusty old steel frame road bike today and thinking about trying to buy the other three too.
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Old 04-15-22, 01:23 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
@Clang finds a bundle everywhere.
It's hard in areas of the country where the Craigslists bike ads don't even fill a single page. If you're very tall or very short things get harder quickly! Setting price filters helps because it's easy to pick out interesting bikes from the sea of kid's bikes in the sub $100 price range. Try using Facebook Marketplace too, though it can decide to show you some very random listings. Bookmark anything worthwhile, because there's no guarantee it will show it to you later.

These Clunker Challenges always get me looking extra hard at local listings and right now the most interesting bikes are too far north of the Twin Cities for me to seriously consider. Usually I'd expect to find mountain bikes for cheap, but right now it's 70's road bikes...

This ($60?) Batavus Tour de l'Europe with an upgraded crankset. It looks like it's maybe a 24" frame (though it's hard to tell with bad pics)- an inch too big but perhaps within the fudge-factor range.


And this $50 Opaque Blue Schwinn Super Sport since I've always wanted to try the comfy ride of fillet-brazed Schwinns.
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Old 04-15-22, 02:10 PM
  #45  
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Pickings for project bikes are pretty slim were I'm at In Fairplay Colorado so it looks like I will be going with a bike from my small death pile that was a free curb find a late 80's Motiv Stone Grindr mountain bike shaped object and a bunch of junk salvage low parts from the pile. The following is a pic of my starting point that I took earl today in keeping with spirat of the clinker I'm gonna guess FMV of $50 for the pile as my starting point which should leave me $50 to finish a build.


Don't think I stand much of chance of getting a good bike or winning.

I know it won't be anywhere near the level of my last clunker bike the Schwinn Mesa GSX which I sill ride regularly.
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Old 04-15-22, 02:43 PM
  #46  
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I spent another $8.80 today to build a Faux Nitto threadless stem adapter. At first I was disappointed with the 1 1/8” always obsolete threaded steerer but it turned out that 1” 6061 tubing is available locally. Now I need to source a front brake cable hanger. This bar and stem are place holders to probably make way for a shorter stem and mustache bars. The TT is 62 cm CTC which is 5 more than my ideal but it doesn’t feel bad in the garage. The saddle height is my preferred height and the saddle to bar drop is 5cm while my road bikes are 6-7. The BB on this Schwinn is really high like a Ridley CX bike. I’ve been thinking of racing again. Anyone interested in a Clunker CX Challenge?



6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?

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Old 04-15-22, 02:44 PM
  #47  
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Interestingly, after I responded to Andy_k an interesting one popped back up on FB MP feed. I had forgotten about it. Messaged the seller, and so for $50...

My goal this year is to complete 62.5 miles on 4 bicycles. The two from last year that did not get the ride time they deserved (9 on Bumblebeena Nishiki, and around 20 on Slimestone Peugeot), and this and the Schwinn Kom previously mentioned. Glad narhay inflated to $108, since that gives me a chance to replace something on the Schwinn if necessary (I spent $100 already on it).

I don't like failing to complete things.



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Old 04-15-22, 03:59 PM
  #48  
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I bought the "old steel frame road bike" and for the second year in a row I feel like I'm probably going to end up with a bike that's far too nice for this challenge. The frame is every bit as rusty as I said, but the components appear to be in great shape. Honestly, I could ride this the way it is. The seller was asking $75 but was kind enough to let me have it for $60, so I should have room in the budget for things like tubes, cables, and bar tape to make it reliable. The tires look like they'll survive 100 km. I'm planning to strip it down to bare metal and repaint it.

Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.



Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
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Old 04-15-22, 04:06 PM
  #49  
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That’s an exceptional buy. What is the marquee?

Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I bought the "old steel frame road bike" and for the second year in a row I feel like I'm probably going to end up with a bike that's far too nice for this challenge. The frame is every bit as rusty as I said, but the components appear to be in great shape. Honestly, I could ride this the way it is. The seller was asking $75 but was kind enough to let me have it for $60, so I should have room in the budget for things like tubes, cables, and bar tape to make it reliable. The tires look like they'll survive 100 km. I'm planning to strip it down to bare metal and repaint it.

Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.



Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
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Old 04-15-22, 04:39 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
That’s an exceptional buy. What is the marquee?
The seller had no idea, but it turned out there were enough clues to make it an easy search, starting with the Sakae Centurion handlebars. The serial number matches the N(1) format in @T-Mar's Asian serial number database, which is consistent with Centurion. The serial number is N9S8262, indicating a 1979 model. The parts spec is an exact match for the Centurion Elite in the 1979 Centurion catalog. The catalog says it was only available in maroon or cobalt blue, but maybe they started offering green late in the year. There's also a paint drip near the seat cluster, so maybe it was repainted.

So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite

That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
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