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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

Old 04-15-22, 04:43 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
The seller had no idea, but it turned out there were enough clues to make it an easy search, starting with the Sakae Centurion handlebars. The serial number matches the N(1) format in @T-Mar's Asian serial number database, which is consistent with Centurion. The serial number is N9S8262, indicating a 1979 model. The parts spec is an exact match for the Centurion Elite in the 1979 Centurion catalog. The catalog says it was only available in maroon or cobalt blue, but maybe they started offering green late in the year. There's also a paint drip near the seat cluster, so maybe it was repainted.

So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite

That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
Cool paint color. Would be interesting to find a similar color. I know you are great at looking for green paints!

Joking aside, pearl green and spray painted silver lugs would be too cool.
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Old 04-15-22, 05:10 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Cool paint color. Would be interesting to find a similar color. I know you are great at looking for green paints!

Joking aside, pearl green and spray painted silver lugs would be too cool.
Coincidentally this "Dawes" popped up today. Pearl Green and silver lugs.

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Old 04-15-22, 05:19 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
Coincidentally this "Dawes" popped up today. Pearl Green and silver lugs.


This is my day for prescience...first I tell Andy it is difficult to find decent clunker candidates around here and I find one.

Then clairvoyant color choices...

Thats an odd little Dawes...
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Old 04-15-22, 05:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Cool paint color. Would be interesting to find a similar color. I know you are great at looking for green paints!

Joking aside, pearl green and spray painted silver lugs would be too cool.
The color on this bike does look like it was probably very nice once. Also, by an odd coincidence, it looks fairly similar to the color of the bike I had when I was in high school (though that one wasn't nearly this nice).

This challenge being what it is though, I'm going to go with paint that I already have on hand. When I painted the lugs on my Allez a couple of years ago, I bought two shades of red to see which matched best. So now I have a nearly fully can of Sunrise Red. That will go great with the white saddle and some white bar tape, maybe some white cables too if I still have some from my bulk roll. This bike originally had very fancy pinstriping. I'm not up to recreating that, but I have some Sharpie paint pens that I've been meaning to use to try my hand at lug lining. The font for the original decals was very basic, so I think I can match that with lettering.com cheapo vinyl decals.

The vintage-centurion.com site won't let me share their picture here (despite it being copied from a scan on velobase), but here's a link to a page that has the catalog picture for this bike: Centurion Elite RS/Super
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Old 04-15-22, 06:21 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
The color on this bike does look like it was probably very nice once. Also, by an odd coincidence, it looks fairly similar to the color of the bike I had when I was in high school (though that one wasn't nearly this nice).

This challenge being what it is though, I'm going to go with paint that I already have on hand. When I painted the lugs on my Allez a couple of years ago, I bought two shades of red to see which matched best. So now I have a nearly fully can of Sunrise Red. That will go great with the white saddle and some white bar tape, maybe some white cables too if I still have some from my bulk roll. This bike originally had very fancy pinstriping. I'm not up to recreating that, but I have some Sharpie paint pens that I've been meaning to use to try my hand at lug lining. The font for the original decals was very basic, so I think I can match that with lettering.com cheapo vinyl decals.

The vintage-centurion.com site won't let me share their picture here (despite it being copied from a scan on velobase), but here's a link to a page that has the catalog picture for this bike: Centurion Elite RS/Super
I look forward to your creation! Especially the paint pen lug lining.
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Old 04-15-22, 06:37 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
I spent another $8.80 today to build a Faux Nitto threadless stem adapter. At first I was disappointed with the 1 1/8” always obsolete threaded steerer but it turned out that 1” 6061 tubing is available locally. Now I need to source a front brake cable hanger. This bar and stem are place holders to probably make way for a shorter stem and mustache bars. The TT is 62 cm CTC which is 5 more than my ideal but it doesn’t feel bad in the garage. The saddle height is my preferred height and the saddle to bar drop is 5cm while my road bikes are 6-7. The BB on this Schwinn is really high like a Ridley CX bike. I’ve been thinking of racing again. Anyone interested in a Clunker CX Challenge?



6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?
I probably have a couple basic headset type hangers and spacers in my parts bins that I would let you have for shipping pm if interested. You could also just go with basic linear pull brake so wouldn't need a hanger cheap easy to get, cheaper easier overall setup no hanger no straddle just a short section of cable housing, cable and should work better with drop levers.

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Old 04-15-22, 07:12 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
The BB on this Schwinn is really high like a Ridley CX bike. I’ve been thinking of racing again. Anyone interested in a Clunker CX Challenge?
I did a few SSCX races on this about 12 years ago.



I can't say I'd recommend it, but it was fun.

BTW, if you need the kind of brake cable hanger that clamps onto a 1-1/8" steerer, I can send you one. I've got a couple on the shelf that I expect never to use again. I guess you'd need a shim (?), but after that adapter, it would be an easy problem to solve.
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Old 04-15-22, 07:28 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I did a few SSCX races on this about 12 years ago.



I can't say I'd recommend it, but it was fun.

BTW, if you need the kind of brake cable hanger that clamps onto a 1-1/8" steerer, I can send you one. I've got a couple on the shelf that I expect never to use again. I guess you'd need a shim (?), but after that adapter, it would be an easy problem to solve.
I actually have similar setup bike that I have done tone of country mountain miles on center pulls with basic linear pull aero levers and modern brake shoes work great.

The 40+ year old lower end Nishiki still looks and rides great.
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Old 04-15-22, 07:37 PM
  #59  
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Thanks for the offers guys and I may take you up on it depending on the direction this one takes me. An attempt to use my Oxford bars and the 300 Exage levers was a failure--too far away from the head tube for original cables and housing. Then, I was tempted to put the original cockpit back together, save the $ and go ride my 100 but this frameset was begging me to raise the bar -- that together we could achieve greatness -- Andy K level greatness!
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Old 04-16-22, 10:33 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
Yay!!!

Okay - so in the last days of Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7 I bought this poor old 1989 Schwinn LeTour for $15 from a guy well off the paved roads on the outskirts of Due West, SC -

I bet I can fix that tear.



Gotta love the combo of faux Grab-On foam, electrician's tape and the novel routing of the brake cables!

Hallelujah, the seat post is NOT stuck!

The reflector bracket is more rust than metal!

And it is currently in the rented storage unit with the bars turned parallel to the frame and the pedals off, where it has been waiting, nay, longing for this day! Let the misplaced priorities begin!
(1) That is quite a "seat scab"... looking forward to the band aid, if that really is the way to go. (2) Are you going to keep all the "style points" within the cockpit, and carry them over to the Challenge? Really, those are gift from the previous owner. (3) That's not just rust.... I think there's some good old barn bird p00p in the mix there. I'm excited to see if you toss the reflectors, or keep them for "style points".
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Old 04-16-22, 10:46 AM
  #61  
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So...another quandary clunker for Dave

Fun and inventive ideas accepted and welcomed!

Welp, i usually have a good idea but there must have been a fog since I though it was closer to 54 cm. It is not. It is 52. Oops.

Since I always honor my offers, and especially since the guy came down to $50, I picked it up and put it on the rack.

Which makes me wonder whether or not to try to create a straight bar special on this one.

The good: frame is in patina-ed, but good shape. Polish and wax. ARX set and power shifter. Decent Sugino RT crankset. MKS Sylvan quills with dust caps! Sugino SPH seatpost that actually came out. Rusty but usable Dia Compe 400s. The stem is not cracked. The seat is probably prostate-destroying but in excellent shape...and Fuji on it. Chain looks surprisingly...usable.

The bad: Freaking 27” wheels again which makes tires problematic. I might be able to make 62 miles on them. And perhaps even survive. Probably will have to put on all 62.5 miles in my hood. Leaky battery on Cateye computer means no bueno. And as stated before, it is way too small.

The ugly: the hoods melted so badly that it dripped into the lever cable end caverns. It's a Fuji (hee hee)

My options.
1. Replace the seatpost and stem with longer ones and keep drop bar, and replace levers and cables. Utilize chiropractor which doesn’t count against $108

2. Replace bar and levers with straight bar/finger levers, stretch current post as far as it can and find used 27 x 1.25 or so tires.

3. Ride 21 short 3 mile jaunts as is without brakes and call it a wrap! Hope I don’t need brakes.

4. make it a single speed somehow.

5. find another sucker to buy it.









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Old 04-16-22, 10:59 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by hazetguy View Post
I spent a few hours washing, cleaning, and going through the bike. Repacked hubs, bottom bracket, headset. Put on a more 'mountain friendly' used cassette (the original 12-21 doesn't cut it around here!), and a known good low mileage chain from my parts box. I used the pedals from the bike that I swapped the pedals from the Paramount to. I put the toe clips and Paramount straps back on, they were on the bike when I bought it, so I am not considering them an expense. I also put in one bar end plug.
Financially I am at:
$69.55, initial bike purchase
$10, pedals
$5, used cassette (thrift store price)
$5, used chain (thrift store price)
$.25, used bar end plug
Total: $94.80

Gonna be taking it out on its initial test run later this morning.












This is a very nice rescue.
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Old 04-16-22, 12:14 PM
  #63  
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Samurai Bicycle Repairman!

I decided that the first thing I would "fix" would be the wonkas bent seat stay. I was too pressed for time to drive over to the storage unit and fish out wood blocks - but lo, tucked in next to my apartment door was my oak boken. I figured if it's good enough for Miyamoto Musashi, it's good enough for me, and combined with those specialized frame straightening tools I often put into leather cases I made it … better. Not perfect, mind you, but better. I tried Meguiars polish but that made little difference, and I’m undecided about whether to go with fine wet-sanding paper or an Evapo-Rust soak. Probably the latter.


Sophisticated equipment in use

The right seat stay isn’t quite straight but I can live with it.

Coming soon - pulling the BB and headset. The latter for sure will go into some ER.

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Old 04-16-22, 12:28 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Clang View Post

This ($60?) Batavus Tour de l'Europe with an upgraded crankset. It looks like it's maybe a 24" frame (though it's hard to tell with bad pics)- an inch too big but perhaps within the fudge-factor range.

.
My first bike-shop bike was a Batavus Tour de l’Europe like that, but the darker brown they used in ‘75. Nice Brooks B17 on this specimen, I think - and the upgraded crankset is a nice bonus - the 3-pin swaged Sugino Maxy on mine always flexed, and I was a scrawny lad!
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Old 04-16-22, 01:12 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by hazetguy View Post
I spent a few hours washing, cleaning, and going through the bike. Repacked hubs, bottom bracket, headset. Put on a more 'mountain friendly' used cassette (the original 12-21 doesn't cut it around here!), and a known good low mileage chain from my parts box. I used the pedals from the bike that I swapped the pedals from the Paramount to. I put the toe clips and Paramount straps back on, they were on the bike when I bought it, so I am not considering them an expense. I also put in one bar end plug.
Financially I am at:
$69.55, initial bike purchase
$10, pedals
$5, used cassette (thrift store price)
$5, used chain (thrift store price)
$.25, used bar end plug
Total: $94.80

Gonna be taking it out on its initial test run later this morning.












Is this Paramount too nice to be classified as a clunker???
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Old 04-16-22, 02:04 PM
  #66  
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Since a couple people quoted my "after" pics post (you can edit out pics to make posts shorter), I wanted to point out my addition error in my $ total. Should be $89.80, not $94.80.
Thanks

I was going to go for another ride this afternoon, and when I went to grab the bike, I noticed that the rear tire was flat. Rats!
I removed the tire and tube, and saw that the rim tape was in horrible condition, and some of the nipples had worn into the tube.



I removed the disintegrating old rim strip, went to my box of used tubes, grabbed a used rim strip (the red thing), installed it and a known-good used tube. Lather, rinse, repeat for the front tire.




All set and ready to go:




So I need to add $2.50 for rim strips (half price of a new pair), and two used tubes, $2/each, to my total.

Previous total (corrected): $89.80
Tubes & rim strips: $6.50
New total: $96.30



I'm feeling a bit deflated, because this really let the air out of my motivation to go for a ride, so I'm gonna go cut the grass instead.

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Old 04-16-22, 06:11 PM
  #67  
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I will get into the game with this Raleigh Super Course I got in December for 50.00. It needs tuning and front brake pads. Today I put some pads on it from a parts bike, trued there front wheel and done some cleaning . I will take it for the first ride tomorrow. This is the photo from the Facebook Market place ad when I bought the bike

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Old 04-16-22, 08:11 PM
  #68  
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I would love to join the challenge but I can never find larger framed bikes for sale except expensive ones. But I love looking at all the bikes posted.
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Old 04-16-22, 09:26 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by DWSURATT View Post
I would love to join the challenge but I can never find larger framed bikes for sale except expensive ones. But I love looking at all the bikes posted.
Join the fun with this: https://columbia.craigslist.org/bik/...463907483.html
this is somewhere in S.C.



There are others coming up between now and July.
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Old 04-17-22, 09:05 AM
  #70  
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Commencing de-rusting procedures

All of the rusty steel bits are now submerged in the last 3/4 gallon of Evapo-Rust I started using in 2017 when my entry was the '72 Liberia. Consider this a test of how many times ER can be re-used! All of the inner headset surfaces are excellent, but the exteriors are ghastly - I'll have a better sense of their serviceability when I check later tonight.

I DO hope that the front derailleur cage is something other than solid rust red when I am done, and perhaps the steel small chainring.



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Old 04-17-22, 09:15 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61 View Post
All of the rusty steel bits are now submerged in the last 3/4 gallon of Evapo-Rust I started using in 2017 when my entry was the ‘72 Liberia. Consider this a test of how many times ER can be re-used!
Answer...a lot. Longer answer: until the rust only turns red-black.
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Old 04-17-22, 10:57 AM
  #72  
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Perfect morning for putting more miles on this year's clunker. Excellent weather, almost no traffic, nice leisurely paced ride. Bike felt really smooth, it's a pretty nice ride. Still has a weird tinny "clang" sound when hitting something sharp (like a small pot hole or bump), not sure what that is. Thinking it could be chain slap, not sure.
Previous distance: 18.12mi / 29.16km. Today's distance: 23.01mi / 37.03km
Distance total to date: 41.13mi / 66.19km




















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Old 04-17-22, 12:49 PM
  #73  
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I think I will join this one with a sports frame Schwinn Traveler that I bought last July for $40. I cleaned it up a bit and gave it to a friends grandaughter as a college bike. He gave it back to me last week and said it appeared that she had rarely used it, and was cleaning out stuff before the end of the semester.
Here it is when I bought it.

It came back in pretty much the same condition, only a lot dirtier and with the original tires that hadn't seen a pump in nearly a year. The front deraileur is twisted a bit on the seat tube and rubs the chain - that's an easy fix. At least it came back intact. The rear schraeder valve stem is sitting at a bit of an angle, but the gum sidewalls are so frayed that I don't want to risk popping a tire bead off to straighten it.
Anyhow I have a nice 12 mile loop that I can ride and never be more than 4 miles from home if I need to walk it back (and my wife has a pick-up).
So I am going to make this thing a little prettier and ride it for 100k.
It's also too small for me.
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Old 04-17-22, 06:45 PM
  #74  
rustystrings61 
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The Mummy!

Hey, if it worked for Tutenakhen ...

Tonight when I returned from the Easter celebrations I pulled the parts from their ER bath. They're good enough but will win no prizes. Then I tore long strips from a ruined bedsheet and soaked them in ER and wrapped the front triangle and the fork. We'll see how they do overnight …



Holy Boris Karloff, Batman!

Last edited by rustystrings61; 04-21-22 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 04-17-22, 07:29 PM
  #75  
rgvg
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I have a wheel for $5CAD. That's all I got so far. I bought it because the label said Wolber Super Champion Alpine, which seemed to suggest it's a good one. I wiped off some of the dirt on the hub and it says Campagnolo, which would make it the first campagnolo hub I've picked up. It's a front wheel, which seems to be much easier to get a hold of than rear wheels. I'll have to keep my eyes open for other bits and hopefully I'll have enough for a bike before the challenge ends.


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