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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

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Clunker 100 Challenge #8

Old 04-20-22, 12:46 AM
  #101  
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The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Whenever I'm stripping down a bike, I keep a cardboard box full of everything I take off. For clunkers, it usually looks something like this:



But tonight I finished stripping down my Centurion Elite, and the box looks like this. Keep in mind, this is before I've cleaned any of it.



(Bonus points for anyone who knows what was originally in that box.)

Not a bad start. So why does a pretty decent mid-level bike sit on Craigslist for three weeks with an asking price under $100? This. This is why.



But, as they say, that'll buff right out.







One cool thing though, when I pulled the fork I got definitive evidence of the original frame color, confirming the identification as a 1979 Centurion Elite.



The fork is actually in relatively good shape, thus demonstrating that chrome does have some rust deterring capability.



Stripped down like this the frame weighs about 5.5 pounds, plus another 1.8 for the fork. Not light, but it's two pounds lighter than my Nishiki clunker from the 2020 Challenge.
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Old 04-20-22, 04:46 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post



(Bonus points for anyone who knows what was originally in that box.)
Brooks saddle, Id guess, though Im not sure of the model #.
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Old 04-20-22, 08:43 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Brooks saddle, Id guess, though Im not sure of the model #.
Five points for @nlerner.
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Old 04-20-22, 09:41 AM
  #104  
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While I slept, CitriStrip was hard at work.

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Old 04-20-22, 11:46 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
Five points for @nlerner.
Damn, I had that one. I need to set my alarm for 3am to check Bike Forums to account for Neal's time difference advantage.

Points are hard to come by nowadays with all those supply chain issues.
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Old 04-20-22, 06:24 PM
  #106  
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Well got some work done on the Stone Grinder turns out most of the drive train and brake levers were a no go got it pieced together with some additional parts and rolling for a short ride. So i'm in $50 for the start pile and about $25 additional junk parts bars stem brake levers and swag crank arms and negative value freewheel place holder. So about 5 miles in on the challenge and have $30 or so budget to get things sorted out and another 95 miles to go.


It looks like to get this one running good and complete the challenge in budget I may have to go with ugh single grip shifter for a strait 7speed rear.

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Old 04-20-22, 07:39 PM
  #107  
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Question for Glorious Fearless Leader Narhay:

Is the Raleigh Eclipse build that I failed to complete last year a candidate to enter for this year?

haven't touched it since I gave up on it.

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Old 04-20-22, 08:03 PM
  #108  
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Do you do anything special to get it working so well?

Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
While I slept, CitriStrip was hard at work.

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Old 04-21-22, 01:33 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Do you do anything special to get it working so well?
I'm still kind of experimenting with that. This is the third frame I've used it on, and I'm doing less each time. This time as an experiment I scuffed the top tube up quickly with some coarse sandpaper, but didn't touch the down tube or head tube. As you can see, the sanding wasn't necessary in this case. I have a theory that there is some correlation between how well the paint bonded to the frame and how much prep is needed. On my 1973 Nishiki, the paint on the frame softened but didn't blister like this, but on the fork it blistered easily. This stuff takes paint off of chrome like it wasn't even stuck on there to begin with.

For the second picture earlier I just wiped it off with a shop rag -- nothing abrasive. I put on a second coat this morning and got most of the places I missed last night. After wiping with shop rags again, I went over it with a dry Scrub Daddy sponge, and that took most of what was left.


I discovered tonight one embarrassing thing tonight. The paint on the drive side chain stay just wasn't coming off at all -- not even a bubble. Then I scraped at it a bit with a plastic putty knife and that didn't scratch it. Can you guess why? Yeah, there was a clear stick-on chain stay protector. You can even see it in one of the pictures I posted yesterday. I didn't notice it.

When it's nearly done I'll use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean up the tight spots and anything else that's still there. It looks like I'm only going to need to sand to get rid of the rust and prep the surface for primer.
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Old 04-21-22, 02:47 AM
  #110  
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Thats good to see work. I like keeping toxic chemicals to a minimum..


Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I'm still kind of experimenting with that. This is the third frame I've used it on, and I'm doing less each time. This time as an experiment I scuffed the top tube up quickly with some coarse sandpaper, but didn't touch the down tube or head tube. As you can see, the sanding wasn't necessary in this case. I have a theory that there is some correlation between how well the paint bonded to the frame and how much prep is needed. On my 1973 Nishiki, the paint on the frame softened but didn't blister like this, but on the fork it blistered easily. This stuff takes paint off of chrome like it wasn't even stuck on there to begin with.

For the second picture earlier I just wiped it off with a shop rag -- nothing abrasive. I put on a second coat this morning and got most of the places I missed last night. After wiping with shop rags again, I went over it with a dry Scrub Daddy sponge, and that took most of what was left.


I discovered tonight one embarrassing thing tonight. The paint on the drive side chain stay just wasn't coming off at all -- not even a bubble. Then I scraped at it a bit with a plastic putty knife and that didn't scratch it. Can you guess why? Yeah, there was a clear stick-on chain stay protector. You can even see it in one of the pictures I posted yesterday. I didn't notice it.

When it's nearly done I'll use a wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean up the tight spots and anything else that's still there. It looks like I'm only going to need to sand to get rid of the rust and prep the surface for primer.
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Old 04-21-22, 04:25 PM
  #111  
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I managed to squeeze in some time on my Peugeot project in the last few days. Here’s the as found pic again:



Cost to me was $50, and I’ve sold off the pump, saddle, hubs, and brakeset for $126, so I guess I have a $76 credit (plus a $108 budget? Not quite sure how the accounting works). I had to drill out the cotters, unfortunately:



But otherwise the frame cleaned up reasonably well:






Current build concept is a single speed porteur with 27” wheels, coaster brake and front rack. I’ll likely re-use the BB and crank arms with single alloy ring. I have a rim and rear hub on order.
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Old 04-21-22, 05:45 PM
  #112  
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Dang, you guys have vision...!
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Old 04-21-22, 07:36 PM
  #113  
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Very nice weather today so got some more work done on the Motive. Turns out the tires were bad looked good but failed after about five miles so replaced them with used junk set of Kendas and patched tubes and put on nice used 7 speed freewheel from my parts bin so figure another $25 so I'm pretty much at budget about $100 total. So it looks like other than some additional cleanup and service I'm will be going going with a single speed/screw driver gear change for this one and will just have to he-man 90 miles or so on back roads and dirt trails to complete the challenge. Bike actually rides pretty good and the frame is nice so ounce the challenge is done good chance I will put a proper 8 or 9 speed drive train on the bike.Did get a short ride into town to the library for another 5 miles or so.



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Old 04-21-22, 07:38 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Dang, you guys have vision...!
That sounds so much nicer than telling me that I'm hallucinating.

I'm hitting a wall here. Attempting to build a front wheel is going to send this project in a different direction. I have hubs, rims some spokes and a fork that do not fit neatly together in my Venn diagram.

The difficulty stems (no pun intended), from the fork being spaced to 90mm. I really think that attempting to spread it 10mm would be pushing it too far. I have a rim that I'd like to use that has an ERD of 584, and a hub that I could lace it to that is made for 90mm. The problem is that the spokes need to be 285mm - which is out of stock here. Alternative 2 would seem to be replacing the fork, which has a 1" diameter steerer that is 5-3/4" long... which is also out of stock.

Sooo... Plan C involves compromising on the wheelset entirely and going with what I pilfered from a Ladies' 1970 Raleigh Sports that I picked up in a thrift store in Bellvue, KY about 5 years back for $20.00. The wheels are chromed steel, heavy, and there's no way I'll be able to remove every single hint of rust that long-ago set in beneath the rim strips, but the rear is a 3-speed coaster brake, the rim diameter matches that of those Kurt sent me, they spin pretty well, and even if I can't get them any truer, they're not too far out. One way or another, those yellow fenders are going on this baby, and at some point beyond the challenge the wheels are going to change.
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Old 04-21-22, 07:39 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
...


Looks like it should be tethered to a hitching post.
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Old 04-21-22, 08:31 PM
  #116  
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I rode over 1000 miles last summer easy on a 1973 Huffy Scout I paid $3 for at a garage-sale in the spring. I put $5 worth of used tires on it, about $6 worth of new brake pads and maybe $3 worth of new spokes. Also put a new chain on it that was surprisingly cheap at about $7. So that is $24. I did spend time cleaning and lubing the moving parts of the bike,bearings, lubed the cables etc.. Trued the wheels of course. the only part I replaced besides the tires was I swapped another old seat onto it because the seat I got with it was missing large chunks of it's cover and padding so half the metal pan was showing and it would have hurt my butt. I even played with the old combination lock on the bike until I cracked it's code and used it. I am sure I will put hundreds of more miles on it this year. Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?

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Old 04-21-22, 09:08 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?
Yes. With the Clunker Challenge you get points for lucky scores on nice bikes, but you also get credit for riding total garbage.
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Old 04-21-22, 09:19 PM
  #118  
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Klunkery Illustrative Assistance

Originally Posted by beng1 View Post
I rode over 1000 miles last summer easy on a 1973 Huffy Scout I paid $3 for at a garage-sale in the spring. I put $5 worth of used tires on it, about $6 worth of new brake pads and maybe $3 worth of new spokes. Also put a new chain on it that was surprisingly cheap at about $7. So that is $24. I did spend time cleaning and lubing the moving parts of the bike,bearings, lubed the cables etc.. Trued the wheels of course. the only part I replaced besides the tires was I swapped another old seat onto it because the seat I got with it was missing large chunks of it's cover and padding so half the metal pan was showing and it would have hurt by butt. I even played with the old combination lock on the bike until I cracked it's code and used it. I am sure I will put hundreds of more miles on it this year. Is this the type of bike this thread had in mind?
Originally Posted by Clang View Post
Yes. With the Clunker Challenge you get points for lucky scores on nice bikes, but you also get credit for riding total garbage.






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Old 04-21-22, 11:14 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by machinist42 View Post
Klunkery Illustrative Assistance


What's wrong with this one? That spoke protector...
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Old 04-22-22, 12:55 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by droppedandlost View Post
What's wrong with this one? That spoke protector...
It goes nicely with the bash guard on the crank.
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Old 04-22-22, 01:09 AM
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I (more or less) finished stripping the paint from the frame on the Centurion.





It frees the rust to express itself without the distraction of the surrounding paint. Next, it was on to the fork.







Tonight I've been working on sanding the rust off of the frame. That's a very satisfying process. It's just about done, but I'm going to leave it until tomorrow to take pictures of that.
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Old 04-22-22, 04:52 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter View Post
Question for Glorious Fearless Leader Narhay:

Is the Raleigh Eclipse build that I failed to complete last year a candidate to enter for this year?

haven't touched it since I gave up on it.
Sure
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Old 04-22-22, 07:41 AM
  #123  
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The weather is finally nice.
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Old 04-22-22, 09:26 AM
  #124  
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BB is fine😂

Ive never see a BB-CS20 before. I came out of my Schwinn Impact Pro easily which is a plus. It is not real crunchy but it does bind every couple of rotations in the hand. I removed the seals, dripped in some Liquid Wrench followed by 3-in-1 for no noticeable improvement. The sockets required for adjusting must come in the same set as those required to adjust PD-M324 pedals. Cool thing is that when I reinstalled the BB and put on the cranks, it spun A-OK.


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Old 04-22-22, 09:37 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
It frees the rust to express itself without the distraction of the surrounding paint. Next, it was on to the fork.
It rubs the Citri-strip on it's skin!
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