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Where can I buy an axle?

Old 08-15-22, 11:12 AM
  #26  
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why on Earth would anyone consider JB Weld a viable (temp or perm) solution to something? IS it because of it's marketed name? It has to be, right? I'm going to assume it's because it's in the name of the product. It says w3Ld! It MUST hold up to the name!1!!1!

Get the axle ordered ASAP once figured out. Don't ride the bicycle. Uber, Lyft, Cab, Bus, walk, or hop in the meantime.
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Old 08-15-22, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Troul View Post
why on Earth would anyone consider JB Weld a viable (temp or perm) solution to something? IS it because of it's marketed name? It has to be, right? I'm going to assume it's because it's in the name of the product. It says w3Ld! It MUST hold up to the name!1!!1!

Get the axle ordered ASAP once figured out. Don't ride the bicycle. Uber, Lyft, Cab, Bus, walk, or hop in the meantime.
some epoxys are stronger than steel but that's not something I know a ton about.

there are no ubers, Lyft's, taxis or buses of any kind in this county. I can't even rent a car. You can take County Express shuttle for medical appointments and Medicaid covers it but any other use would be cash and the fare for a round trip to Walmart about an hour away is over $400.

so that's why I'm considering jb weld.
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Old 08-15-22, 11:23 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
wow, talk about credibility. Gimme a chance to examine those links.

I like your suggestion. Can I use balls that are connected together in a little retainer thing or do they have to be the lose kind? (That's not a spelling error, it's what I do with them) I imagine they're standard sizes but what would I search for?
In the '70s, Normandy hubs were on just about any 10-speed you could acquire for less than $200, except for the Japanese brands. Peugeot, Raleigh, Dawes, Mercier, USA-made Schwinn all used Normandy hubs. I would have expected an Asian-made lugged Schwinn to have Japanese-spec hubs, but obviously that's not what you have.

Loose balls, by all means. Using a race introduces fitting problems and reduces the number of balls, which gives you a weaker hub. It's been a long time, but I believe it's 9 1/4" balls on each side. Here's a pretty good video on how to do it.
. You can do it without removing the freewheel if you disassemble from the non-drive. Note the distance from the outside of the drive side locknut to the bearing race. You will need to duplicate this on the new axle.

Last edited by oldbobcat; 08-15-22 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 08-15-22, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
some epoxys are stronger than steel but that's not something I know a ton about.

there are no ubers, Lyft's, taxis or buses of any kind in this county. I can't even rent a car. You can take County Express shuttle for medical appointments and Medicaid covers it but any other use would be cash and the fare for a round trip to Walmart about an hour away is over $400.

so that's why I'm considering jb weld.
JB Weld is not going to work. Cannot stress it enough.

a letter to your congress rep might be of future help, if not for you, but for your community.

I would consider looking into making friends with someone that may lend some transportation assistance. Def give them ample enough time & money to compensate for there time. It'll likely be far cheaper than any of the other options you've described.
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Old 08-15-22, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Troul View Post
why on Earth would anyone consider JB Weld a viable (temp or perm) solution to something?
I've used a lot it. Works great on small applications where there's not a lot of heavy rotation, pressure or torque. It's absolutely insane to do so with a broken axle when you can just buy a replacement easily.

Get the axle ordered ASAP. Don't ride the bicycle. Uber, Lyft, Cab, Bus, walk, or hop in the meantime.
This should be common sense. Why compound the problem a broken hub or wheel?

Does the OP have cone wrenches? He will need them.
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Old 08-15-22, 02:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
that's why I'm considering jb weld.
A misnomer, JB Weld is not a weld. It is a glue. A very strong glue to be sure but not up to the task of holding a steel axle together. Please rethink your plan
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Old 08-15-22, 07:48 PM
  #32  
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I think this is the exact replacement but I'm hoping the company will reply to my messages and confirm before I order. It's $35 shipped, no returns. If I don't hear from them I may just order anyway at 5pm tomorrow.
https://bicyclepartsdirect.com/shop/...26tpi-x-137mm/

There's also the 10mm axle that I might be able to cut to fit.
Bike Hub Parts - HUB AXLE SET REAR WM
It is much cheaper and includes the cones. I measured the inside diameter of the hub and it's 11.6mm so no problem there, it could take a much thicker axle. The problem is what oldbobcat said after the link
The 10x1x130x141 will work if the cone outside diameter and race taper match what you have, and you cut the length down to 137 mm or a little less.
How am I supposed to know? They don't give any information on that page so I would have assumed it was a standard.

I gotta get this ordered right away but I'm also looking at different bikes. I've repaired too many things on this bike in the past year. I have enough gift card credit that I should probably buy one on Amazon if anyone knows a cheap fast road bike that won't break down or require too much bike shop service (I have many of the tools but serious problems or hard to find parts limit what I can do and there isn't a real mechanic to take it to).
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Old 08-15-22, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
How am I supposed to know?
If you can't get it measured locally, I wouldn't mess around guessing which axle you actually need. I would either report your original post and have a mod move it to c&v or start a new thread in c&v in lay out all the details* (with pics) so you can get your answer quickly. I would then look for a brand new axle on eBay, probably from Wheels Manufacturing.

* Bike model, year, hub model, axle length
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Old 08-16-22, 02:26 AM
  #34  
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1. Buying a different rear wheel may also be an option vs. replacing the bike. Cheap bikes seldom hold up, particularly the spokes.
2. I’ve tried to explain this once already, the male thread will be smaller than the nominal size. Your 10.2 mm dropouts will be a bit bigger than the nominal size. Both of these point to a 10 mm axle.
3. You can probably buy a cheap pitch gauge, or fit the axle against a screw at the hardware store. You don’t need the diameter to be the same, just the pitch to check for a match. Your theory on pitch seems reasonable based on your measurement, but seeing as you have calipers you should be able to check both. After 1 inch the 25.4 (1 mm pitch) should be almost exactly a half thread off of 26 TPI, not a tiny bit.
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Old 08-16-22, 05:46 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
1. Buying a different rear wheel may also be an option vs. replacing the bike. Cheap bikes seldom hold up, particularly the spokes.
2. I’ve tried to explain this once already, the male thread will be smaller than the nominal size. Your 10.2 mm dropouts will be a bit bigger than the nominal size. Both of these point to a 10 mm axle.
3. You can probably buy a cheap pitch gauge, or fit the axle against a screw at the hardware store. You don’t need the diameter to be the same, just the pitch to check for a match. Your theory on pitch seems reasonable based on your measurement, but seeing as you have calipers you should be able to check both. After 1 inch the 25.4 (1 mm pitch) should be almost exactly a half thread off of 26 TPI, not a tiny bit.
the cones are seized and I can't access more than about 8mm of threads in one spot.

I could break out the solvents, vice grips and a blow torch but I'm too lazy for that when I can measure the wheel and bike instead. This whole thing is stupid and I may just order both axles and a new bike.
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Old 08-16-22, 06:11 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
1. Buying a different rear wheel may also be an option vs. replacing the bike. Cheap bikes seldom hold up, particularly the spokes.
I don't see anything less than $300-$500 that sparks my interest. Is that still what you consider cheap?

there's some kick ass bikes in the $500-$1k range but will I really see performance and reliability improvements commensurate with a doubled price?

$100 for a wheel or even $40 for an axle is hard to justify when a new and likely more reliable bike is $300.

the ten speed was great for groceries for about 3 years but in the past year I've been doing 30 mile rides periodically and I've replaced 15 or 20 rear spokes and rebuilt that freewheel 3 or 4 times. It took 8 months to find and acquire the right puller since the one in my specialty tool kit didn't even fit. Buying low priced spokes was a serious mistake and I had to buy a tensionometer to get more accurate (I got the cheap uncalibrated one for 1/5 the cost and only use it for evening tension). I still break undished spokes and was about to increase spoke tension all around when half the axle fell out.
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Old 08-16-22, 10:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
the cones are seized and I can't access more than about 8mm of threads in one spot.

I could break out the solvents, vice grips and a blow torch but I'm too lazy for that when I can measure the wheel and bike instead. This whole thing is stupid and I may just order both axles and a new bike.
Is it safe to assume you have access to the proper closed end or cone wrenches and a pair of vise grips or a bench vise to hold the axle stub if needed? They often take some cleaning and a good grip, but seized is not common.

Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
I don't see anything less than $300-$500 that sparks my interest. Is that still what you consider cheap?
Depends on the bike. A name brand in the <$1000 range is probably ok. It seems like every time I've seen someone put any real miles on a <$500 generic bicycle or <$1000 internet special (read: Bikesdirect or similar) they start breaking spokes and end up needing new wheels after a couple thousand miles. I have a tendency of attracting people with bike problems they want fixed, so I don't know if it's all of them, or if I'm getting a non-uniform subset.

Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post

there's some kick ass bikes in the $500-$1k range but will I really see performance and reliability improvements commensurate with a doubled price?

$100 for a wheel or even $40 for an axle is hard to justify when a new and likely more reliable bike is $300.
I'm not sure you'll find a new and reliable bike for $300. I also think given your lack of local shops that some basic tools and spare parts should probably be included in your budget. It's a bit harder without a local co-op, but the internet does have a lot of resources, both the Park videos as well as forums.

​​​​​​​
Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
the ten speed was great for groceries for about 3 years but in the past year I've been doing 30 mile rides periodically and I've replaced 15 or 20 rear spokes and rebuilt that freewheel 3 or 4 times. It took 8 months to find and acquire the right puller since the one in my specialty tool kit didn't even fit. Buying low priced spokes was a serious mistake and I had to buy a tensionometer to get more accurate (I got the cheap uncalibrated one for 1/5 the cost and only use it for evening tension). I still break undished spokes and was about to increase spoke tension all around when half the axle fell out.
Unfortunately an improperly built wheel will eat spokes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Unfortunately replacing the broken spoke doesn't repair the fatigue damage to all of the other remaining spokes. I've seen one or two exceptions, but once I see more than 2 or perhaps 3 spokes break in a couple year period I assume the wheel either needs to have all of the spokes replaced, or simply replace the wheel. Knowing you're popping spoke constantly I would at a minimum replace the wheel vs. just the axle. As to if you want to make the larger expense to the rest of the bike, I'd need to know more about the past issues. If the other repairs were bearing related, brake pads, cables, adjustments, etc. I wouldn't feel at all bad about repairing what you already have.
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Old 08-16-22, 10:41 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post
I've replaced 15 or 20 rear spokes and rebuilt that freewheel 3 or 4 times... I still break undished spokes.
Pertinent info should be included in the original post.

​​​​
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Old 08-16-22, 04:23 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron View Post

How am I supposed to know? They don't give any information on that page so I would have assumed it was a standard.
You just have to eyeball it. It doesn't have to be exact. If the the outside diameter, inside diameter, and curves of the races are reasonably close, you're in business.

I once tried one of those cheap sets in a Specialized wheel I pulled from the dumpster. It rolled nicely in the truing stand, but after a few miles it would flutter under braking. Since I had no idea what the original cones looked like, back into the dumpster it went.
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Old 08-17-22, 12:55 AM
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Different colored bearing balls on each side?




started at 6:30am. Half mile test ride was fine. I still need the right axle ASAP, but first I'm going to sleep!

crap too many pictures. This will be 2 posts.
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Old 08-17-22, 12:59 AM
  #41  
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Old 08-17-22, 05:47 AM
  #42  
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The different colored bearings on one side were probably wearing/grinding more than the other, essentially tarnishing them. I see this often when one cone or cup is pitted, such as from a bent axle. Is the axle held together by the cone? I think this “fix” will be very short lived.

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Old 08-17-22, 06:15 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bboy314 View Post
Is the axle held together by the cone? I think this “fix” will be very short lived.
I suspect the skewer will fail long before the cone fractures in the radial plane, but ultimately I concur.

Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
5. I know a lot of people who have ridden a hub with a broken axle for an undetermined amount of time, but there's always the risk of the skewer breaking (and sudden departure of the wheel from where it should be). Additionally, you aren't doing the inside of your hub any favors with the cones being non-coaxial while that's happening.
I've heard that too, plus the broken axle had 25 miles on it before I even knew, and it shows.

based on my experience I'd say having the skewer adjusted fairly tight reduces the risk of catastrophe upon axle breakage. I am curious if there's a way to prevent the chain jumping for any reason, because I've almost eaten it hard more than once when the chain jumped right as I stood up.

I'm gonna put ten gentle miles on it right now and see how the bearing hold up. It's acting like a freshly rebuilt hub. The wheel is spinning with less drag or play than I've ever seen but if anything falls out of alignment I'll be getting a great workout changing the color of the breathing balls.

if I end up walking I'm ordering a new bike today, thought what I really want are cones and an axle that fit, in addition to a 2nd bike.
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Old 08-17-22, 09:18 AM
  #44  
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the freshly rebuilt hub was dead silent. Now there's noise, but so little I can't hear it unless I take the chain off the freewheel.

It's gonna get louder and louder, then hotter too, and at some point just completely go to **** and be un-rideable.

I increased spoke tension a lot when I trued the wheel this time and none broke so hopefully it stays that way. They're all +/-20% per the park tool wheel app and my uncalibrated tensionometer. Had to sacrifice some lateral trueing and widen the brake but it's worth it to stop breaking spokes.

I'll ride this gently, monitoring closely, and get an axle asap. I think that's all there is to say.
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Old 08-17-22, 05:27 PM
  #45  
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The axle recommended by oldbobcat is the best deal if it fits. Bike parts USA isn't accepting orders but I think I found it on Amazon. The only problem is that in the questions two other customers say the axle is 130mm long. He said 141mm and I'd trim it.

this is specified as: RR 10x1x130x141

I get the 10mm diameter, 1mm thread pitch, but what are the other two numbers?


my best guest is the other customers are measuring wrong. 130mm OLD and 141mm length.

it's $10 so I'm gonna take a chance on the diameter (should fit) and cone shape if the length is 141mm.

now that I know a new wheelmaster wheel is $63 on Amazon I feel stupid for wasting hours axle hunting and the question of whether a $35+ bare axle will fit is irrelevant.
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Old 08-17-22, 06:21 PM
  #46  
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I believe you’re correct that those numbers indicate 130 OLD and 141 total length. If you trim it, screw a cone and locknut down first so you can unscrew them to help smooth the threads where you’ve cut.
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Old 08-17-22, 06:41 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by bboy314 View Post
I believe you’re correct that those numbers indicate 130 OLD and 141 total length. If you trim it, screw a cone and locknut down first so you can unscrew them to help smooth the threads where you’ve cut.
I just placed the order! Thank you for the advice (you and everyone who replied).
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