Morelock

nice, a bunch of friends have the TK2/3 frames... great bikes.

Super D

The more I look at aluminum track frames, the more impressed I am with what they did with this one.

seau grateau

I liked my TK2 a lot when I had it. The lip around the track ends annoyed me because it made it tough to get a wrench on the nuts, but aside from that, great frame.

Super D

I notice that too, always wondered why the lip is big right there. Was assuming it's purposeful to stiffen the dropouts under load, but maybe it's just the only way they could weld the chainstay and seatstay connections, the way they have it configured. There are other ways to make those tube junctions, but they must've had a good reason for doing it this way----such as, keeping costs low, while keeping strength and durability high. Reasonable. I guess I can't complain, damned affordable frame and plenty good, so that may be my only complaint.

Morelock

My Look464 has that lip too... annoying.

Clythio

Morelock

nice,
Thoughts on that infocrank?

Clythio

Reliable, steady, easy to setup, change batteries and calibrate, rigid, long lasting batteries, etc. - compatible with a lot of computer heads (I use Cycleops Joules because I have Powertaps).
Will keep them both - I have a 170 and a 167,5mm. Bought in order to use with any wheelset, including disc wheels.
Seems to be a bit "low measuring" at peak numbers - easy to understand if principles of "tension path" strain-gauges position is analyzed, due more contribution form "inner" parts of the "beam" - gauges are on external faces.. but it doesn't matter if you want to compare sessions/races.
On peak efforts like standing starts or rolling sprints, it can show up to 5% numbers below Powertaps on 5s-15s efforts. But it's precise, it doesn't floats, you can compare different efforts on a very, very coherent way.
On any effort above 50% of max, ie, >1min, it goes on pair with best Powertaps I have - which I consider the gold standard, sorry for all other solutions with gauges in different places than on a round, perfect, big diameter torque tube... ;-).
Considering all those factors and the price, I would recommend InfoCrank for track racers.
It is ISIS compatible, allowing adjust for all frames - I'm using 108mm/68mm without any problem on my Fuji Track Elite.

queerpunk

i think it's to make welding the connection easier. and i can't help but wonder if over at Specialized, D'Alusio stared at that and thought "i wonder if we can do this for headtubes and bottom bracket clusters" when they came up with Smartweld.

KrispyK

2019 Super Pista. 55cm

Super D

Nice rig and great picture!

jeffmendoza

Nice! Is that a power saddle?

KrispyK

Its the power arc, slightly rounder than the power. Trying out an ISM right now though.

jeffmendoza

Ah ok. I just got a regular power, going to try it this season. I've only done a few roller sessions so far, but seems good.

itturriko

Finally I can post pictures, so here is my bike:

BMC Trackmachine 02
FFWD T9 Wheels
Miche Pistard 52x15/14
BMC stem and handlebars
Selle Italia superflow saddle
Look Keo Carbon pedals

ruudlaff

You've taken the picture from the wrong side

Seriously tho...pretty!

R3drider

Finally got my christmas gift outside for the first time a few weeks ago, super happy with it!! And glad to be finally getting some track time.

Baby Puke

Nice! What track is that?

R3drider

Jerry Baker Memorial Velodrome, formerly Marrymoor Velodrome. Redmond, WA not too far from Seattle, big 400m.

Baby Puke

Ah yeah, I did old-person Nationals there a few years ago, one of the nicest tracks I've ridden in the US. Enjoy the new bike!

Hida Yanra

Nice rig, and on a decent day too!
I've got lots of good memories from that track, hope you get lots of fun in.

Super D

My DF with training wheels on and first day with the Nitto long reach bar. I need a longer frame, again, lol! 😆

Minion1

If you're using Nittos, try B123s the drop and reach on those is massive. They do B123AAs with a 31.8 clamp, might save you buying a bigger frame.
OTOH, it might just be too small! Very good looking bike though.

Super D

I actually needed a shallow drop but long reach, that 123 has a 170 drop, so I went with the Nitto B135AA-SSB Randonneur bar, they have a 120 drop and 105 reach (and the bottoms flare out so the top section is 6cm narrower than the bottom). Figured this is good to get me by for a while until I can find a better option with shallow drop, and was thankful they're not expensive!

With a 150mm stem and this much reach, my bars are a good bit past the front axle, not ideal. I'm not in any rush to buy another frame, this should get me by fine for a couple of years. Has to, kids are going to college.

Minion1

A college fund actually being used for college!?! Am I in the right place?

I just did a similar back and forth, bought a frame with a longer top tube and went from 38cm B125s to 36cm B123s, thought I'd have to sell the new frame and get a smaller bike again! Went from a funky "large" Ridley with a 55cm top tube and super slack seat tube to a 57cm alloy Avanti. Added 20mm and what feel like a massive pair of bars, luckily I had a short enough stem to make it work.