Chain Tension Question for Gravel Bike
#1
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Chain Tension Question for Gravel Bike
I am extremely fortunate that SaltAir Cycles (https://www.saltaircycles.com/) is local to me. I currently ride a gravel bike and race the queen stage race at RPI (https://www.rebeccasprivateidaho.com/) every year. But for next year, I'd like to do it on a singlespeed.
With that said, since I have the option for any type of dropout, I was wondering what is the best method for chain tensioning on a gravel singlespeed bike? I've been reading up here (https://sheldonbrown.com/no-derailers.html) but feel it's always good to get different opinions from those who have gone down this route already.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
With that said, since I have the option for any type of dropout, I was wondering what is the best method for chain tensioning on a gravel singlespeed bike? I've been reading up here (https://sheldonbrown.com/no-derailers.html) but feel it's always good to get different opinions from those who have gone down this route already.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Clark W. Griswold
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I like the enclosed dropouts of the All City Super Professional or the Otso Warakins. I don't like the other dropouts I have seen but I am one of those people who is unlikely to majorly change a set up on a bike from geared to single speed or vice versa. The only reason I would do that is for some sort of crazy do-it-all bike I have thought about on occasions but probably wouldn't ever build because currently SRAM is the only full wireless drivetrain and I would refuse to run DOT fluid brakes and it is a lot of work to remove the shifty bobs and put them back on.
#3
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I like the enclosed dropouts of the All City Super Professional or the Otso Warakins. I don't like the other dropouts I have seen but I am one of those people who is unlikely to majorly change a set up on a bike from geared to single speed or vice versa. The only reason I would do that is for some sort of crazy do-it-all bike I have thought about on occasions but probably wouldn't ever build because currently SRAM is the only full wireless drivetrain and I would refuse to run DOT fluid brakes and it is a lot of work to remove the shifty bobs and put them back on.
Looking at those two examples you mentioned, I like them a lot. They seem like a solid choice. Thanks for sharing that!
In researching reviews on the TRP Hylex RS brakes (which are my choice now for brakes, I stumbled upon this setup https://road.cc/content/review/26231...ylex-rs-brakes.
Incredibly large photo below (not sure why it is so large)

Brake Tension Design by Dward
Now, this makes me wonder. Moving the axle forward and back to get the proper chain tension doesn't effect the disc and disc brake pad contact? I hadn't thought about this before. It appears it may be OK if they are making disc brakes for singlespeed bikes I suspect. This is the beginning of my research into building up a singlespeed bike so I am not sure about that.
Thanks again for posting your thoughts on chain tensioning options.
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Sliding dropouts are the way to go. I have two bikes with that system, an All City Super Professional, and a Kona Unit. The Kona's version is more secure, but the All City's offers more precise adjustment.
One advantage of either is that the disc brake caliper moves with the axle, so you don't have to adjust (or even touch) the brakes when tensioning the chain. The other advantage is that the wheel drops right out when you need to remove it, and when you re-install, no further tension adjustment is needed.

One advantage of either is that the disc brake caliper moves with the axle, so you don't have to adjust (or even touch) the brakes when tensioning the chain. The other advantage is that the wheel drops right out when you need to remove it, and when you re-install, no further tension adjustment is needed.


#5
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Sliding dropouts are the way to go. I have two bikes with that system, an All City Super Professional, and a Kona Unit. The Kona's version is more secure, but the All City's offers more precise adjustment.
One advantage of either is that the disc brake caliper moves with the axle, so you don't have to adjust (or even touch) the brakes when tensioning the chain. The other advantage is that the wheel drops right out when you need to remove it, and when you re-install, no further tension adjustment is needed.
One advantage of either is that the disc brake caliper moves with the axle, so you don't have to adjust (or even touch) the brakes when tensioning the chain. The other advantage is that the wheel drops right out when you need to remove it, and when you re-install, no further tension adjustment is needed.

https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...ve-option.html

Here is the link and photo.
Thanks again for the info. My research and parts list is coming along nicely. Will soon post my dream bike parts list for review.
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#7
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Sliders suck if you run a fixed drivetrain though, too much flex. I had trouble with a Bombtrack Arise binding up and destroying a couple hubs, although admittedly one had an alloy axle.
I assume you're running disc brakes.
I assume you're running disc brakes.
#8
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Yes, will be running disc brakes on my singlespeed. TRP brand: https://trpcycling.com/product/hylex-rs-2/
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