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Addiction 2022.3

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Addiction 2022.3

Old 10-03-22, 05:52 PM
  #7051  
Rowan
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
The thru-axles on my commuting bike like to unscrew themselves unless the levers are jammed so hard I worry I won’t be able to loosen them in case of a flat. However, the ones on my road bike never move. I wonder what the difference is…
Could be the smoothness or lack of on the drop-out on one side or the other. Could even be an angle problem on one side -- as in a slope that isn't part of the flat. And then again, there might be a circular depression where the retainers engage which actually allow tightness unless there is perfect line-up. And look on both sides each of the drop-outs to find the problem.

If making the do-up tight as possible is a solution, but hard to get undone, think about getting a piece of plastic plumbing tubing about six inches in length that will fit over the lever. Carry it in whatever bag you use with your other repair kit.

And yes, I have had one or two problems, the most memorable on my old Fuji Touring that was steel framed and broke the right-hand drop-out on the rear when blown over before the start of a 400km event. It made the event through to the end without me really knowing, except some strange gear shifting issues. I welded it back together, not perfectly, but well enough to have lasted a decade since. A few little issues rose, one of them requiring the horizontal drop-out slot (almost unheard of these days) to be bent back carefully to have parallel status again the one of the left.

So, if your bike has fallen over for some reason, have the parallel nature of the drop-outs been checked?
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Old 10-03-22, 06:20 PM
  #7052  
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So I think I figured out the chain skipping problem on the ritchey . Primov (probably spelt wrong) guessed right with the stuck link.

Re waxed the chain tonight, and when I put the chain back on I noticed it was doing the dance on all the cogs. I took the chain back off and broke the links in more no more chain dance pedaling back wards.
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Old 10-03-22, 06:38 PM
  #7053  
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As luck would have it, there is an on/off switch on the headlight, that I had forgotten about. Works fine now,.
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Old 10-03-22, 06:55 PM
  #7054  
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Originally Posted by Rowan
Could be the smoothness or lack of on the drop-out on one side or the other. Could even be an angle problem on one side -- as in a slope that isn't part of the flat. And then again, there might be a circular depression where the retainers engage which actually allow tightness unless there is perfect line-up. And look on both sides each of the drop-outs to find the problem.

If making the do-up tight as possible is a solution, but hard to get undone, think about getting a piece of plastic plumbing tubing about six inches in length that will fit over the lever. Carry it in whatever bag you use with your other repair kit.

And yes, I have had one or two problems, the most memorable on my old Fuji Touring that was steel framed and broke the right-hand drop-out on the rear when blown over before the start of a 400km event. It made the event through to the end without me really knowing, except some strange gear shifting issues. I welded it back together, not perfectly, but well enough to have lasted a decade since. A few little issues rose, one of them requiring the horizontal drop-out slot (almost unheard of these days) to be bent back carefully to have parallel status again the one of the left.

So, if your bike has fallen over for some reason, have the parallel nature of the drop-outs been checked?
All good ideas! The commuting bike has dropped a few times, but the dropouts are true. However it is also Ti with Al wheels and has a very harsh ride (lots if high-frequency energy), whereas the other one is all CFRP and much better damped.
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Old 10-03-22, 07:11 PM
  #7055  
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Originally Posted by genejockey
I almost never have any issue with Look Delta pedals, but Keos are different. They don't seem to be weighted on the back side as heavily so when you push off they often spin rather than hanging in the right orientation for the front of the cleat to catch them, like the Deltas.
I used Look Delta pedals BITD. Last I can remember was 2002. I agree 100%. They were weighted nicely. They always seemed to be in the correct position for easy engagement after pushing off.
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Old 10-03-22, 07:29 PM
  #7056  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
I'm sure this is inconvenient and annoying, but to me this is such a beautiful picture. Spoke replacements that don't involve removing a tubeless tire and rim tape make me so happy.
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Old 10-03-22, 07:37 PM
  #7057  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
Speedplays on my road bikes. No flippin' flipping required.
Crank Brothers on all my bikes. No flippin' flipping required.
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Old 10-03-22, 08:40 PM
  #7058  
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The Superbowl champion Rams look amazingly incompetent.
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Old 10-03-22, 09:00 PM
  #7059  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
I used Look Delta pedals BITD. Last I can remember was 2002. I agree 100%. They were weighted nicely. They always seemed to be in the correct position for easy engagement after pushing off.
On my fourth set of Delta pedals. Found a very lightly used pair of Jalabert signature models on e-bay. Prior to these a friend gave me two pair, one barely used and one pair was n.o.s.

Since I use pedal extenders I need pedals with wrench flats. None of the higher end pedals have wrench flats anymore.
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Old 10-03-22, 10:07 PM
  #7060  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
All good ideas! The commuting bike has dropped a few times, but the dropouts are true. However it is also Ti with Al wheels and has a very harsh ride (lots if high-frequency energy), whereas the other one is all CFRP and much better damped.
Interesting. The favourite bikes for Machka and me are our Ti Hasa road bikes. Mine is coming up to 15,000km (I think about 9,000 miles) and also with Al wheels on each. Considering they were bought as just frames and built up by me from those, they have been beaut bikes. Originally meant for long-distance Audax rides, and I think several 400km ones are on the list of what they have done. Another 400 was planned for the weekend that was coming up when the workplace accident happened 4-1/2 years ago.

Now you have indicated the bike in question is Ti, it might be worth checking the bits of the QR that have slots machined into them and face on to the drop outs. If they are worn, which is highly likely as alloy or steel facing on to Ti, new ones or whole QR might be a solution.
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Old 10-03-22, 10:20 PM
  #7061  
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Originally Posted by big john
It's amazing how much heavier they are than 2.4 tubes, and, with a spare, I am carrying 3 of them.
Yeah, I've been afraid to weigh the one I bought for backup in case of tubeless failure.
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Old 10-03-22, 11:52 PM
  #7062  
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Originally Posted by big john
The Maxxis 2.8s on there are about 830 grams, plus the big tubes.
830 grams - yikes !

Is that a Maxxis MTB tire - or Metzler motorcycle tire ? lol

A pair of MTB tires I typically ran BITD weigh less than one Maxxis 2.8

just dug out some old 26" MTB tires - including a Kenda Klimax Lite 1.95 @ 345g per tire ...

just sayin
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Old 10-04-22, 12:12 AM
  #7063  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Finally got around to making a map of my actual tour route up to the point where I broke my seat post collar bolt.

Ride with GPS | Bike Route Planner and Cycling Navigation App

That odd "loopage" around the Bellfonte/Bald Eagle area represents some shopping. etc., mileage I did after going to the park office to register, riding to the primitive camping area, which is miles from the park office and then heading into town for groceries, all before my rest day the next day. Odometer read 502 miles at time of bolt breakage. The discrepancy can be explained by, among other things, the mileage I put in during my day off, which included a ride back to the main part of Bald Eagle State Park for a shower and lunch down by the beach while I charged the phone and external battery.
Did you create a separate thread for this ride ?

If not - interested in how this ride compared to any previous similar rides etc ... bike, supplies and equipment ... etc

Last edited by t2p; 10-04-22 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 10-04-22, 12:28 AM
  #7064  
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Originally Posted by rjones28
I grew up at drag strips.

My neighbor is into vintage drag cars

The Chevy II is his latest
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Old 10-04-22, 12:58 AM
  #7065  
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Originally Posted by big john
The Superbowl champion Rams look amazingly incompetent.
Rams could not tackle Deebo Samuel - but were able to tackle the protester that ran on to the field
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Old 10-04-22, 04:40 AM
  #7066  
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Hadn’t had one of these days in a long time.

Wordle 472 5/6

⬜⬜⬜🟩⬜
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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Old 10-04-22, 05:14 AM
  #7067  
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Registration for next April's Mallorca 312 opened this morning. I am in!

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Originally Posted by rjones28
Addiction is all about class.
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Old 10-04-22, 05:15 AM
  #7068  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Hadn’t had one of these days in a long time.

Wordle 472 5/6

⬜⬜⬜🟩⬜
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
I got 5/6 today too, but I get them pretty often.
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Originally Posted by rjones28
Addiction is all about class.
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Old 10-04-22, 05:15 AM
  #7069  
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I don't expect them to advance, but looks like the local baseball team made the post-season.
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Addiction is all about class.
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Old 10-04-22, 05:40 AM
  #7070  
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Originally Posted by Rowan
Interesting. The favourite bikes for Machka and me are our Ti Hasa road bikes. Mine is coming up to 15,000km (I think about 9,000 miles) and also with Al wheels on each. Considering they were bought as just frames and built up by me from those, they have been beaut bikes. Originally meant for long-distance Audax rides, and I think several 400km ones are on the list of what they have done. Another 400 was planned for the weekend that was coming up when the workplace accident happened 4-1/2 years ago.

Now you have indicated the bike in question is Ti, it might be worth checking the bits of the QR that have slots machined into them and face on to the drop outs. If they are worn, which is highly likely as alloy or steel facing on to Ti, new ones or whole QR might be a solution.
This has happened since everything was new. None of the axles in question have any machining on the contact faces.
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Old 10-04-22, 07:08 AM
  #7071  
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Originally Posted by datlas
Registration for next April's Mallorca 312 opened this morning. I am in!

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Old 10-04-22, 07:09 AM
  #7072  
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Wordle 472 6/6

⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜
⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜
⬜🟩🟩⬜🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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Old 10-04-22, 07:20 AM
  #7073  
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Originally Posted by t2p
830 grams - yikes !

Is that a Maxxis MTB tire - or Metzler motorcycle tire ? lol

A pair of MTB tires I typically ran BITD weigh less than one Maxxis 2.8

just dug out some old 26" MTB tires - including a Kenda Klimax Lite 1.95 @ 345g per tire ...

just sayin
A big knock against modern "enduro" style bikes is their weight. Mine is somewhat low-end and it weighs 32 pounds. More expensive bikes in the category are a few pounds lighter but these bikes are more capable of high speed through rough terrain than any bikes from years ago. My bike is bigger, has more suspension, and better brakes than my first motorcycle.

The tires are heavy, I could put smaller, lighter tires on but these things are amazing. I've gone through piles of sharp rocks and the bike just cruises through. Descending a rough sandstone hill which was a nightmare on my old hardtail 26er is nothing for this set-up.

The tires downhill racers and pro enduro racers use are in the range of 1200 grams. I'm sure the body armor, full face helmet e-bike warriors I see are running downhill tires.
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Old 10-04-22, 07:22 AM
  #7074  
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Originally Posted by t2p
My neighbor is into vintage drag cars

The Chevy II is his latest
That same car after a major rebuild and update carried out in the 1970s.

It spent the offseason on the show circuit.

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Old 10-04-22, 07:28 AM
  #7075  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
This has happened since everything was new. None of the axles in question have any machining on the contact faces.
I don't believe the contact faces of thru axles have a serrated or machined surface to improve 'grip' - but I might be mistaken ... only have one bike with thru axles

Rowan's mention of slots or machined surface on a QR do not apply in your case (if the bike has thru axles)

the threads on your thru axles and/or the dropouts on the commuter bike might just be a tad 'loose' ... might be more common on thru axles with a 1.5 thread pitch (compared to a 1.0 thread pitch) ?

thru axle obviously has merit - but threads in the dropouts ... I dunno ...
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