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Bike sizing advice

Old 09-16-21, 12:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tedder987
Well, I bit the bullet and ordered a 58 yesterday (using my crash replacement program discount). The shop cannot say how long its going to be before I actually get a bike. Best case maybe November. Probably by February but it might be longer.
@cyclezen's comment about the truck-like handling pushed me over the edge. I remember test riding 61cms back in 2014 and using the exact same phrasing, trucklike. My 58, while also a generation newer was vastly more agile.

Also, seems that for 2022, Spz is not selling any mech ultegra Roubaix's and the comp-level Di2 is gone as well. It jumps from mech 105 to SRAM Rival AXS etap (and I ordered the 105).
hope it all works out quickly for you.
is your old bike still 'rideable'? would be a shame to be bikeless for that time... can it be made 'rideable'.
I have a '04' Sworks (tarmac) which developed a cosmetic 'crack' in the DT, about 12 yrs ago... I don;t ride it much now, but often enough,,, and it still seems fine and hasn't gotten worse.
might be worth a quick 'repair', if the cost isn't too high or wait too long....
always nice to have a spare bike... LOL! (my spouse knew she was in trouble, when, the day after our evening wedding, we went to the Sunday races - JUST to watch for a few minutes before heading on Honeymoon... LOL! - in Europe, where we touristed and also rode bikes and visited every Frame builder bike shop we might pass... Plum, RIH, Grandis, Pinarello, maybe another dozen or so... ??? LOL !!! I know... scary !!! LOL!
Ride On
Yuri
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Old 09-16-21, 03:38 PM
  #27  
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Unfortunately it's not rideable. The drive side seat stay has a crush injury (repairable, plus last summer's TdF showed you can ride a bike missing a seat stay) but there is also a crack (all the way through) that starts where the rear derailleur cable exits the stays, wraps around the front in the joint between the seat and chain stays, and then disappears behind the derailleur hanger. That one can't be fixed because you would need to add material beneath the hanger and where the axle needs to fit. The carbon repair place said they would try, but cash up front, no guarantee they can fix it and no warranty if it turns out rideable ($750 + stripping and shipping).

Specialized wants the bike back with all non-wear items in place (ie I can keep my tires, but not the frame, derailleurs etc) to get the crash replacement discount. Until that was clear I was thinking about trying to do a DIY carbon repair and then just use it as a dedicated trainer bike but its not to be.

Finally, Yuri, you might have a cycling problem. Glad your wife is supportive of it as it sounds like it could cause some marital friction...
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Old 09-17-21, 10:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tedder987
Unfortunately it's not rideable. The drive side seat stay has a crush injury (repairable, plus last summer's TdF showed you can ride a bike missing a seat stay) but there is also a crack (all the way through) that starts where the rear derailleur cable exits the stays, wraps around the front in the joint between the seat and chain stays, and then disappears behind the derailleur hanger. That one can't be fixed because you would need to add material beneath the hanger and where the axle needs to fit. The carbon repair place said they would try, but cash up front, no guarantee they can fix it and no warranty if it turns out rideable ($750 + stripping and shipping).

Specialized wants the bike back with all non-wear items in place (ie I can keep my tires, but not the frame, derailleurs etc) to get the crash replacement discount. Until that was clear I was thinking about trying to do a DIY carbon repair and then just use it as a dedicated trainer bike but its not to be.

Finally, Yuri, you might have a cycling problem. Glad your wife is supportive of it as it sounds like it could cause some marital friction...
Oh bummer... always good to have a backup bike - time to browse thru CL for some needy, nice bike which can be rescued for a mere pittance... ?

LOL ! No Problem ! I'm that way about most everything ! 100% dog, all the time ! 45 yrs, she's become accustomed to it. She knew what she was getting into, just not how deep the mine shaft really was...
Marriage is all about friction and rolling resistance, and the mitigation of same... LOL!
But it always gets applied equally, whether its cycling or a new Fence or a new Kitchen counter, whatever is on the agenda.
She reminds me often of her long suffering status... LOL!
Ride On
Yuri

Last edited by cyclezen; 09-17-21 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 09-18-21, 01:25 PM
  #29  
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It depends on how you plan to use the bicycle. For racing the smaller and lighter and stiffer frame has been considered the way to go. But for triathalons and touring a large frame that allows the rider to stretch out is a better choice. I am 5'9" and the charts put me on a 54-55 cm frame but other than a Dave Scott frame made for triathalons, I have used a 59cm frame with relaxed geometry for my thousand mile plus touring. With mountain bikes it is even more variable depending on the type of bike (downhill, XC, trail, etc.). On a 55cm frame I need to use a long stem to get enough reach so I am not bent up on the bike and I can make full use of my lungs and back muscles. The new (to me) stems that provide for adjusting the angle and height of the bars are a great option.

In your case I would try to find bikes in the brand and sizes you are considering even if they have different components as the frame what matters most. Interestingly enough most new bikes are sold in XS/S/M/L/XL frame sizes and there much less granularity in frames available. For me the focus then becomes on the head tube angle and fork rake of the different bikes in my approximate frame size.
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Old 09-20-21, 10:22 AM
  #30  
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All, thanks for the advice. After talking it over with the bike shop I have decided to go with the 58cm frame. I am sticking with Specialized because they gave me 25% crash replacement discount which is enough money to make other brands a non-option.

I went with the 58 because (as I have been reminded) that as I enter the second half of my 50's and beyond I am not likely to be looking to stretch out further, the opposite really. Since the new roubaix frame is already ~1cm more reach and I am on 100cm stem with the old bike, there is room to lengthen it if I want to, but with a 61 I will be dropping to a 90cm stem to start and there is less room to shrink. Plus the comment about truckish handling. I prefer small nimble light cars and bikes (and motorcycles) so I think if I err on the side of small I will be less unhappy than if I err on the side of "too big".

Also, for the stack, its apparently reported with the shorter of 2 future stock collars (0mm tall) while the taller is 15mm tall. Either can take up to another 15mm of spacers. So I think (hard to be certain) I can get the bar X-Y position that is 3mm loner and 7mm lower than my old setup without going to a crazy stem. Since i had been thinking of dropping a spacer out of the old setup I think this will be close enough and I have a few months to strengthen my core while I wait for the new bike.

Unfortunately the wait will be a minimum of 2 months, probably 4-6 and possibly longer. Nothing I can do about that but spend a lot of time on my MTB while I wait and keep scanning CL and Facebook Marketplace for an old bike to adopt while I wait.
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Old 09-20-21, 11:55 AM
  #31  
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Nimbleness is primarily a function of head tube angle and fork rake or offset and not frame size. This is apparent when one looks at the Specialize large size road bike frames depending on their intended use.Road Gravel frame head tube 70⁰ fork rake 55mm

Road triathlon large frame head tube 72.5⁰ fork rake 45mm

Road Sprint frame head tube 73.5⁰ fork rake 44mm

Centurion Ironman head tube 74⁰

Specialized Domane endurance road bike head tube 71.9⁰ fork rake/offset 48mm
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Old 09-20-21, 04:08 PM
  #32  
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For the Robaix's

2017 58cm. head tube: 73.5 fork-rake: 44mm trail: 55mm wheelbase: 1011mm
2021 58cm. head tube: 73.5 fork-rake: 44mm trail: 55mm wheelbase: 1014
2021 61cm. head tube: 74 fork-rake: 44mm trail: 52mm wheelbase: 1024 mm

so from this the new 61 ought to be the quickest handling, but the reviews all say how the new ones (2021) are more "race-bike" than the old (2017) ones are. Sadly since there are none around to do a back-to-back ride on, its all guesswork at this point (for me at least)
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Old 09-21-21, 07:55 AM
  #33  
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There is yin-yang going on with all the other geometry, tube lengths and stem and bar lengths. So don't just focus on on specific geometry feature and ignore everything else. Longer wheel base will mute some of that quicker feeling. Longer stem that might be on that bike as well as wider bars.
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Old 09-21-21, 03:06 PM
  #34  
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FWIW turns out the one at the bike shop is not really an (economic) option. Since its shop owned and not manufacturer owned, the 25% discount cannot be applied to it. Gonna just have to wait for a new bike. I was told Spz changed the rules about these warranty/crash replacement programs about 3 years back. before that it would have been easy. Today, either I have to pay full or the shop would have to eat the discount, and neither of us wants that.
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