Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Do You Use the Large Front Chainring/Large Rear Cog Combination?

Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!
View Poll Results: Do You Use the Large Front Chainring/Large Rear Cog Combination?
Yes
51
46.79%
No
58
53.21%
Voters: 109. You may not vote on this poll

Do You Use the Large Front Chainring/Large Rear Cog Combination?

Old 09-14-21, 10:23 AM
  #76  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,435 Times in 4,663 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
Someone please explain to me why I would want to/need to use my big-big combination in favor of dropping down to the middle range of my lower chainring. Please?
Shifting the RD once is a lot faster and easier than shifting the FD once and the RD thrice, so the onus is on you to explain why you'd want/need to drop to the small ring. Yeah, it makes sense if you anticipate needing/wanting less than 42 gear inches because of upcoming terrain but, if you don't, shifting the RD makes more sense.
WhyFi is offline  
Likes For WhyFi:
Old 09-14-21, 12:19 PM
  #77  
BCDrums
Recreational Road Cyclist
 
BCDrums's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: MetroWest, Mass.
Posts: 546

Bikes: 1990 Peter Mooney road bike

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 254 Post(s)
Liked 252 Times in 134 Posts
Originally Posted by NomarsGirl
I try to avoid it. I'm not always entirely sure where I am on the cassette.
Originally Posted by ShannonM
Almost never, but occasionally it'll happen so I set my bike up so that nothing breaks if it does.
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
[X] Not intentionally.
The way the poll question is worded, Do You Use the Large Front Chainring/Large Rear Cog Combination?, seems ambiguous to me. I don't use big/big, but occasionally I shift into it unintentionally. I have set my chain length to allow this faux pas without damage.

So I'm with JohnDThompson.
BCDrums is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 12:23 PM
  #78  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,435 Times in 4,663 Posts
I'd be interested to see a breakdown of the groupsets being used by the "no" folks. I would assume that they're mostly using older groups... or older folks accustomed to older groups.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 12:38 PM
  #79  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,520

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4555 Post(s)
Liked 2,792 Times in 1,796 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
...Someone please explain to me why I would want to/need to use my big-big combination in favor of dropping down to the middle range of my lower chainring. Please?
To avoid dropping the chain on a climb, especially undulating rollers, during a race. Happens more often than we realize, unless the race announcer sees and mentions it, or we're eagle-eyed enough to spot it ourselves. In a group ride or race you can hear someone's chain drop.

Chain drops seem to be more common with bigger gaps in some chainring combos -- 53/39, 50/34 -- and index shifters, than with old school 52/42 and friction shifters. But front derailleur shifts have always been trickier than RD.
canklecat is offline  
Likes For canklecat:
Old 09-14-21, 02:50 PM
  #80  
livedarklions
Tragically Ignorant
 
livedarklions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 15,613

Bikes: Serotta Atlanta; 1994 Specialized Allez Pro; Giant OCR A1; SOMA Double Cross Disc; 2022 Allez Elite mit der SRAM

Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8186 Post(s)
Liked 9,094 Times in 5,053 Posts
Originally Posted by WhyFi
I'd be interested to see a breakdown of the groupsets being used by the "no" folks. I would assume that they're mostly using older groups... or older folks accustomed to older groups.

No bones about it. Older guy on an older bike. Mostly Shimano 600 Tricolor. It's on 2 of my bikes.

Definitely cross when it cross chains..
livedarklions is offline  
Likes For livedarklions:
Old 09-14-21, 04:23 PM
  #81  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz


I answered a bored "no" to this question. Here is a chart that approximates the gear-inches for two of my road bike setups. Someone please explain to me why I would want to/need to use my big-big combination in favor of dropping down to the middle range of my lower chainring. Please?
I don’t understand the need to go to a big-big combination either, especially if you have more gradual steps between the chainrings.



If you ride in the big-big combination and need to go to lower gears, there’s a lot of hunting and pecking to find the right gear.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 04:29 PM
  #82  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by WhyFi
I'd be interested to see a breakdown of the groupsets being used by the "no" folks. I would assume that they're mostly using older groups... or older folks accustomed to older groups.
Older groups or older folks have nothing to do with it. It’s not the equipment but the way the gears work. Gears have duplicates on most all systems. Compact doubles might encourage big-big use but that’s because they are stupidly designed. They have a huge range but also have a huge gap in the middle of the range that makes the transition jarring. They are ridden more like two independent drivetrains than a more progressive gearing system would be.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Likes For cyccommute:
Old 09-14-21, 04:53 PM
  #83  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,435 Times in 4,663 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Older groups or older folks have nothing to do with it. It’s not the equipment but the way the gears work. Gears have duplicates on most all systems. Compact doubles might encourage big-big use but that’s because they are stupidly designed. They have a huge range but also have a huge gap in the middle of the range that makes the transition jarring. They are ridden more like two independent drivetrains than a more progressive gearing system would be.
You state that older groups and older folks have nothing to do with it, but you go on to say that compact doubles, which are decidedly modern and pretty much standard fare on new road bikes, encourage different shifting patterns? You don't think that that's a bit contradictory? And you don't think that the chainline flexibility of modern 11- and 12-speed chains makes a difference? Ease of set-up and trim positions? None of that, eh? It's just "the way gears work"? Okay.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 05:00 PM
  #84  
tomato coupe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,863

Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3899 Post(s)
Liked 7,162 Times in 2,897 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
If you ride in the big-big combination and need to go to lower gears, there’s a lot of hunting and pecking to find the right gear.
No more hunting and pecking than when you go to a lower gear from the big-second-biggest gear combination.
tomato coupe is offline  
Likes For tomato coupe:
Old 09-14-21, 05:15 PM
  #85  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by WhyFi
You state that older groups and older folks have nothing to do with it, but you go on to say that compact doubles, which are decidedly modern and pretty much standard fare on new road bikes, encourage different shifting patterns? You don't think that that's a bit contradictory? And you don't think that the chainline flexibility of modern 11- and 12-speed chains makes a difference? Ease of set-up and trim positions? None of that, eh? It's just "the way gears work"? Okay.
Not contradictory at all. They encourage stupid shifting patterns. Look at Phil_getz’s chart. A compact double is almost a linear gear ratio system. You could start at gear one (little-big combination) and shift up one gear at a time to the top. The problem is that you can’t shift a bike like that because (assuming climbing upwards through the gears) when you get to the top of the low range, you’d have to downshift on the rear 10 (or 11 or 12) times and then upshift on the front. A little over the top but not by much. Because of the giant hole in the middle of the ratios, you still end up with a double or triple upshift when you change range or you end up with a very high cadence to maintain speed and stay in a relatively close gear.

Modern chains aren’t all more flexible than other chain either. If anything they are more delicate with thinner plates, tighter tolerances, and prone to wear more quickly. Nor are they any easier to set up nor do they have more trim positions. My STI triples are dead simple to set up. They have the same soft second shift trim position as a double in addition to the third shift for the inner ring.

With my triple (or even a more traditional double), I have more duplicates but I don’t have to do multiple gear changes to maintain a more constant cadence. I also don’t need to use the big-big combination because it’s duplicated further down the middle chainring range.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 05:37 PM
  #86  
BlazingPedals
Senior Member
 
BlazingPedals's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Middle of da Mitten
Posts: 12,473

Bikes: Trek 7500, RANS V-Rex, Optima Baron, Velokraft NoCom, M-5 Carbon Highracer, Catrike Speed

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1511 Post(s)
Liked 732 Times in 453 Posts
Occasionally. But chain length is more of an issue than cross-chaining, for a recumbent. (No matter what ring is used, the chain runs the same from the idler under the seat to the derailleur.)
BlazingPedals is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 05:40 PM
  #87  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
No more hunting and pecking than when you go to a lower gear from the big-second-biggest gear combination.
If you want to maintain a similar speed at a similar cadence, there is. Consider the following. The 50/39/30 with an 11-34 cassette is the gearing I have on my fast road bike. Comparing it to a 50/34 with the same cassette, let’s assume that you are riding in the 23 tooth gear on both bikes at 90 RPM on the same 28mm tires. Speed is 15.7 mph. If I shift off the large ring to the middle one, the speed difference at 90 RPM is 3.5mph. A slight increase in cadence will bring me back up to the same speed.

With the compact double the speed difference between the two ranges is 5 mph. To maintain the same speed, the rider has to increase cadence to over 120 rpm or the rider has to upshift twice to get the same speed/cadence as the closer ratio triple gives.


Road riders will go on and on about how they want close ratios so that they can find just the right gear for the right speed but then they ride a drivetrain that doesn’t allow for that kind of close ratios. I don’t get it.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 05:53 PM
  #88  
tomato coupe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,863

Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3899 Post(s)
Liked 7,162 Times in 2,897 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
If you want to maintain a similar speed at a similar cadence, there is. Consider the following. The 50/39/30 with an 11-34 cassette is the gearing I have on my fast road bike. Comparing it to a 50/34 with the same cassette, let’s assume that you are riding in the 23 tooth gear on both bikes at 90 RPM on the same 28mm tires. Speed is 15.7 mph. If I shift off the large ring to the middle one, the speed difference at 90 RPM is 3.5mph. A slight increase in cadence will bring me back up to the same speed.

With the compact double the speed difference between the two ranges is 5 mph. To maintain the same speed, the rider has to increase cadence to over 120 rpm or the rider has to upshift twice to get the same speed/cadence as the closer ratio triple gives.

Road riders will go on and on about how they want close ratios so that they can find just the right gear for the right speed but then they ride a drivetrain that doesn’t allow for that kind of close ratios. I don’t get it.
Everyone I know that uses a compact double has figured out how to use them in an easy, efficient manner. (It's pretty simple.) Clearly, however, you should stick with a triple.
tomato coupe is offline  
Likes For tomato coupe:
Old 09-14-21, 06:03 PM
  #89  
WhyFi
Senior Member
 
WhyFi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,435 Times in 4,663 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Not contradictory at all. They encourage stupid shifting patterns. Look at Phil_getz’s chart. A compact double is almost a linear gear ratio system. You could start at gear one (little-big combination) and shift up one gear at a time to the top. The problem is that you can’t shift a bike like that because (assuming climbing upwards through the gears) when you get to the top of the low range, you’d have to downshift on the rear 10 (or 11 or 12) times and then upshift on the front. A little over the top but not by much. Because of the giant hole in the middle of the ratios, you still end up with a double or triple upshift when you change range or you end up with a very high cadence to maintain speed and stay in a relatively close gear.

Modern chains aren’t all more flexible than other chain either. If anything they are more delicate with thinner plates, tighter tolerances, and prone to wear more quickly. Nor are they any easier to set up nor do they have more trim positions. My STI triples are dead simple to set up. They have the same soft second shift trim position as a double in addition to the third shift for the inner ring.

With my triple (or even a more traditional double), I have more duplicates but I don’t have to do multiple gear changes to maintain a more constant cadence. I also don’t need to use the big-big combination because it’s duplicated further down the middle chainring range.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
If you want to maintain a similar speed at a similar cadence, there is. Consider the following. The 50/39/30 with an 11-34 cassette is the gearing I have on my fast road bike. Comparing it to a 50/34 with the same cassette, let’s assume that you are riding in the 23 tooth gear on both bikes at 90 RPM on the same 28mm tires. Speed is 15.7 mph. If I shift off the large ring to the middle one, the speed difference at 90 RPM is 3.5mph. A slight increase in cadence will bring me back up to the same speed.

With the compact double the speed difference between the two ranges is 5 mph. To maintain the same speed, the rider has to increase cadence to over 120 rpm or the rider has to upshift twice to get the same speed/cadence as the closer ratio triple gives.


Road riders will go on and on about how they want close ratios so that they can find just the right gear for the right speed but then they ride a drivetrain that doesn’t allow for that kind of close ratios. I don’t get it.
You do a fantastic job of either not understanding the questions posed or of baffling with ******** in an attempt to obfuscate the point.
WhyFi is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 07:41 PM
  #90  
Frank S
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Frank S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Olympic Peninsula, USA
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 16 Posts
Honestly, I just wanted to know.
Just because I don't ever do it, I never intended the subject to become cause for making value judgements.
I have certainly learned that the practice is much more common than I thought.

Thanks to everyone who has, up to this point, participated in this poll!
Frank S is offline  
Old 09-14-21, 09:06 PM
  #91  
Branko D
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 786
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 338 Post(s)
Liked 408 Times in 252 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
I answered a bored "no" to this question. Here is a chart that approximates the gear-inches for two of my road bike setups. Someone please explain to me why I would want to/need to use my big-big combination in favor of dropping down to the middle range of my lower chainring. Please?
Short, sharp-ish hills in a race is the classic scenario; I've dropped a chain trying to shift in the front under torque, while rear derailleurs just go shift. Being in the big ring also makes it quicker to accelerate over the top, too. On the other hand, the penalty for going big-big, assuming your chain is long enough and your trim works is basically negligible, and doing 30 seconds of big-big now and then isn't going to meaningfully affect chain wear.

​​​​​If I have a long climb or I'm doing it in a leisurely style, of course, small ring, but that's not always the case.
Branko D is offline  
Likes For Branko D:
Old 09-14-21, 09:49 PM
  #92  
Nachoman
well hello there
 
Nachoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Point Loma, CA
Posts: 15,430

Bikes: Bill Holland (Road-Ti), Fuji Roubaix Pro (back-up), Bike Friday (folder), Co-Motion (tandem) & Trek 750 (hybrid)

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked 334 Times in 206 Posts
Even though I ride Di2 which tolerates cross chaining very well, I'm old school and always avoid.
__________________
.
.

Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
Nachoman is offline  
Old 09-15-21, 12:30 AM
  #93  
M Rose
Full Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Northeastern Oregon
Posts: 249

Bikes: 2021 Trek Verve 2 Disk

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times in 80 Posts
Originally Posted by WhyFi
I'd be interested to see a breakdown of the groupsets being used by the "no" folks. I would assume that they're mostly using older groups... or older folks accustomed to older groups.
I am one of the “no” folk. I say no because I have a 3x8 and I mostly stay in the bottom and middle rings. I find if I’m in the large chain ring and get to the middle of the rear cassette, it’s usually time to drop to the middle ring because the terrain is going to start varying a lot, and it’s easier to just keep messing with the rear cassette than adjusting the front chain ring.

also the opposite I don’t go into the bottom half of the cassette when I’m in the small chain ring, for the same reason I don’t go to the upper half wile in the large ring. If I’m getting that easy to pedal, it’s time to be in the middle up front, or possibly all the way up to the large, depending upon decent, wind conditions, ect.

for me it has nothing to do with the “X” chaining it’s just the way I ride.
M Rose is offline  
Likes For M Rose:
Old 09-15-21, 02:07 AM
  #94  
Lazyass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times in 395 Posts
I rarely do but my bikes usually come with an 11-28 cassette. I replace my 11sp cassettes with Ultegra 12-25's because I don't need an 11 or 28. The cross chaining doesn't seem as bad on a 25, it's not very noisy. I know technically it might be but it doesn't feel like it since it's wrapping a smaller diameter cog.

I don't know if it's been brought up in this thread but the worst cross chaining for me with most chainring combos is with the chain in the small ring/small cog because the chain will rub against the inside of the big ring. It doesn't seem to be an issue on my CX bike with a 46/36 since there's only a 10 tooth difference. That's actually my favorite gearing for the road and I'll probably swap all my bikes to it.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 09-20-21, 11:04 AM
  #95  
LeeG
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,198
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 137 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 81 Times in 64 Posts
11 tooth cogs are dumb
LeeG is offline  
Old 09-20-21, 01:11 PM
  #96  
rrjmaier
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Scotland, near Edinburgh
Posts: 32

Bikes: Koga-Miyata Traveller, Specialized Roubaix, Brompton folding bike

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
Why ?

Originally Posted by LeeG
11 tooth cogs are dumb
Please explain why the are dumb?

I run front 52/33 and 11/34 on the rear (11 speed)
So 52 - 11 allows me to get up to 55km/h at a reasonable cadence.
what is wrong with this?
rrjmaier is offline  
Likes For rrjmaier:
Old 09-20-21, 01:29 PM
  #97  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,433

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 143 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7620 Post(s)
Liked 3,432 Times in 1,813 Posts
Originally Posted by LeeG
11 tooth cogs are dumb
Originally Posted by rrjmaier
Please explain why the are dumb?
Have you eve met an 11-tooth cog which had read "Moby Dick"? Have you ever met an 11-tooth cog which could do even basic, four-function math? How many 11-tooth cogs can find Madagascar on a map?
Maelochs is online now  
Likes For Maelochs:
Old 09-20-21, 01:45 PM
  #98  
PeteHski
Senior Member
 
PeteHski's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,020
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4193 Post(s)
Liked 4,616 Times in 2,852 Posts
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Everyone I know that uses a compact double has figured out how to use them in an easy, efficient manner. (It's pretty simple.) Clearly, however, you should stick with a triple.
Yeah, they are nowhere near as bad as some people make out. Sure whenever you drop to the small ring you typically double shift the rear to match your cadence, but it's not a big deal. Having said that I'm about to go 1x on my next road bike. Having run 1x on mtbs for the last 6 years I'm sold on it. Now we have 13 speed Campag Ekar with a sensible cassette range I'm finally up for it on the road in place of a compact double.
PeteHski is offline  
Old 09-20-21, 04:20 PM
  #99  
noisebeam
Arizona Dessert
 
noisebeam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: AZ
Posts: 15,030

Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5345 Post(s)
Liked 2,169 Times in 1,288 Posts
I do starting out at pretty much every light. Since it is mostly flat out here I keep it in the big ring. It would be too annoying to shift the front and rear for every light.
I've been happy with the lifetime of chain and gears so am not going to stop despite lecture from LBS owner when I dropped off bike that way. Actually I took my business elsewhere.
noisebeam is offline  
Likes For noisebeam:
Old 09-20-21, 04:36 PM
  #100  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,433

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 143 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7620 Post(s)
Liked 3,432 Times in 1,813 Posts
As someone mentioned above, this is why Shimano brifters have trim settings.
Maelochs is online now  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.