Peugeot PXN10 Super Competition From A Thrift Store
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Peugeot PXN10 Super Competition From A Thrift Store
This has been sitting at a thrift store and on Craigslist at $150 for a couple of months now. I finally stopped in and picked it up today. It’s not a well put together ad and that’s probably why it didn’t sell until I bought it. Here are the pics from Craigslist.
A few things:
The dropouts are Simplex and the rear derailleur is Shimano Altus so that should mean the derailleur hanger has been altered. I’m happy that the hanger is still present and usable in some way.
Actually, most of the parts have been changed to Shimano. Front derailleur is also Altus, brake levers are 600, the crankset is 600, the shift levers are 600EX (I’m guessing the threading was probably changed here?), the hubs are Shimano of some sort but I’m not not sure which type.
The fork has some pitting from rust but it’s not bad at all, it’ll look great when I get done polishing it.
Here are my pics in the sunlight from when got it home earlier today.
Serial # 9103143
Is this 1979?
Truthfully, I’d prefer the French parts instead of Shimano but what’s in place here should make a pretty good ride. They all look to be from the period correct era, 1980 or so. I’ve already got a 1982 Spidel equipped PY10 in the same color and graphic scheme, no need for me to try and copy it. This will work for now. Maybe I’ll trade this one someday for a blue one, who knows? I’ll tear it down tomorrow and begin the refurb. New tires, bar tape, cables, bearings, that’s about it.
A few things:
The dropouts are Simplex and the rear derailleur is Shimano Altus so that should mean the derailleur hanger has been altered. I’m happy that the hanger is still present and usable in some way.
Actually, most of the parts have been changed to Shimano. Front derailleur is also Altus, brake levers are 600, the crankset is 600, the shift levers are 600EX (I’m guessing the threading was probably changed here?), the hubs are Shimano of some sort but I’m not not sure which type.
The fork has some pitting from rust but it’s not bad at all, it’ll look great when I get done polishing it.
Here are my pics in the sunlight from when got it home earlier today.
Serial # 9103143
Is this 1979?
Truthfully, I’d prefer the French parts instead of Shimano but what’s in place here should make a pretty good ride. They all look to be from the period correct era, 1980 or so. I’ve already got a 1982 Spidel equipped PY10 in the same color and graphic scheme, no need for me to try and copy it. This will work for now. Maybe I’ll trade this one someday for a blue one, who knows? I’ll tear it down tomorrow and begin the refurb. New tires, bar tape, cables, bearings, that’s about it.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 06-18-22 at 04:50 PM.
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A few more pics:
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This has been sitting at a thrift store and on Craigslist at $150 for a couple of months now. I finally stopped in and picked it up today. It’s not a well put together ad and that’s probably why it didn’t sell until I bought it. Here are the pics from Craigslist.
The dropouts are Simplex and the rear derailleur is Shimano Altus so that should mean the derailleur hanger has been altered. I’m happy that the hanger is still present and usable in some way.
. . .
Serial # 9103143
Is this 1979?
Truthfully, I’d prefer the French parts instead of Shimano but what’s in place here should make a pretty good ride. They all look to be from the period correct era, 1980 or so. I’ve already got a 1982 Spidel equipped PY10 in the same color and graphic scheme, no need for me to try and copy it. This will work for now. Maybe I’ll trade this one someday for a blue one, who knows? I’ll tear it down tomorrow and begin the refurb. New tires, bar tape, cables, bearings, that’s about it.
The dropouts are Simplex and the rear derailleur is Shimano Altus so that should mean the derailleur hanger has been altered. I’m happy that the hanger is still present and usable in some way.
. . .
Serial # 9103143
Is this 1979?
Truthfully, I’d prefer the French parts instead of Shimano but what’s in place here should make a pretty good ride. They all look to be from the period correct era, 1980 or so. I’ve already got a 1982 Spidel equipped PY10 in the same color and graphic scheme, no need for me to try and copy it. This will work for now. Maybe I’ll trade this one someday for a blue one, who knows? I’ll tear it down tomorrow and begin the refurb. New tires, bar tape, cables, bearings, that’s about it.
Is there a way to tell the date from the serial no. for Peugeots? I've always gone by the catalog.
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The serial number indicates October 1979 frame manufacture. That's late enough in the calendar year that it should be a 1980 model. By this time, Simplex had introduced a version of their droput with a integral derailleur stop and factory threading, to accommodate non-Simplex derailleurs. This may be what you have, though I wouldn't expect one on a Peugeot.
Last edited by T-Mar; 06-18-22 at 05:12 PM.
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The serial number indicates October 1979 frame manufacture. That's late enough in the calendar year that it should be a 1980 model. By this time, Simplex had introduced a version of their droput with a integral derailleur stop and factory threading, to accommodate non-Simplex derailleurs. This may be what you have, though I wouldn't expect one on a Peugeot.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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The serial number indicates October 1979 frame manufacture. That's late enough in the calendar year that it should be a 1980 model. By this time, Simplex had introduced a version of their droput with a integral derailleur stop and factory threading, to accommodate non-Simplex derailleurs. This may be what you have, though I wouldn't expect one on a Peugeot.
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Great score. That one definitely needs your massaging but it should come to life with not too much effort. Nice tires for just about all terrain. You have been scoring lately , good to see. I love the chain ring drilling . I can’t wait to see it on your first ride.
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I didn't think that Simplex had changed the mounting system on their derailleurs quite this early.
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All of your replies are much appreciated! It appears that there may not have been damage inflicted to the derailleur hanger like I thought there was. All the better to learn it’s likely not damaged. You’ve all got curious now to get the derailleur off and make certain. I had no idea that Simplex changed their hanger to accommodate other derailleurs. Thanks T-Mar for positively identifying the year of production
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Is there a way to tell the date from the serial no. for Peugeots? I've always gone by the catalog.[/QUOTE]
I believe the first digit being 9 indicates 1979. I’m not sure in exactly which year Peugeots serial numbers began making sense but I know that by this time they can be deciphered as T-Mar has shown. I’m guessing the next two digits being 1 and 0 are how October is determined but I’ll have to defer to T-Mar and other experts to elaborate on that.
I believe the first digit being 9 indicates 1979. I’m not sure in exactly which year Peugeots serial numbers began making sense but I know that by this time they can be deciphered as T-Mar has shown. I’m guessing the next two digits being 1 and 0 are how October is determined but I’ll have to defer to T-Mar and other experts to elaborate on that.
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There's a nice classic French race bike under all that "stuff"....
All one needs is a bunch of Mafac, Stronglight and Simplex SLJ components to bring it back
All one needs is a bunch of Mafac, Stronglight and Simplex SLJ components to bring it back
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The 600 crankset looks great on this bike, even if it is not original. Enjoy!
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Wish I could get all that stuff, one day maybe, but as usual I’ve got too much in the queue. It may not be original but it’s basically complete and I wanna ride it soon.
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Looks like that will clean up nicely !!!
A couple of odd things caught my eye about the decals .
Dont recall ever seeing that flash under the Super Competition decal on top tube .
Also looks like a small pug lion at the bottom of the seat tube ??? behind the quite cool Shimano 600 drillium.
And also a couple of tricolour flags ? on bottom of seat tube and downtube.
maybe someone had some extra decals somewhere along the line ?
all good fun .
Thanks for sharing your find
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Looks like that will clean up nicely !!!
A couple of odd things caught my eye about the decals .
Dont recall ever seeing that flash under the Super Competition decal on top tube .
Also looks like a small pug lion at the bottom of the seat tube ??? behind the quite cool Shimano 600 drillium.
And also a couple of tricolour flags ? on bottom of seat tube and downtube.
maybe someone had some extra decals somewhere along the line ?
all good fun .
Thanks for sharing your find
A couple of odd things caught my eye about the decals .
Dont recall ever seeing that flash under the Super Competition decal on top tube .
Also looks like a small pug lion at the bottom of the seat tube ??? behind the quite cool Shimano 600 drillium.
And also a couple of tricolour flags ? on bottom of seat tube and downtube.
maybe someone had some extra decals somewhere along the line ?
all good fun .
Thanks for sharing your find
I don't remember it being in that location on these Peugeots, but maybe I just did not notice..
They are usually on the top tube near the headstock or the seat cluster.....
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#18
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The serial number indicates October 1979 frame manufacture. That's late enough in the calendar year that it should be a 1980 model. By this time, Simplex had introduced a version of their droput with a integral derailleur stop and factory threading, to accommodate non-Simplex derailleurs. This may be what you have, though I wouldn't expect one on a Peugeot.
Also, anyone knows what distinguishes this frame fromn a PY10? Because my PY10 has the exact same Reynolds stickers, also says "super competition" on the rear top tube. Only distinguishing feature, from where i'm sitting, is the PY 10 has the lower 3rd of the rear triangle chromed - correct?
Last edited by martl; 06-19-22 at 10:36 AM.
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So a frame nr starting with "812" would indicate 12/1978, 1979 model?
Also, anyone knows what distinguishes this frame fromn a PY10? Because my PY10 has the exact same Reynolds stickers, also says "super competition" on the rear top tube. Only distinguishing feature, from where i'm sitting, is the PY 10 has the lower 3rd of the rear triangle chromed - correct?
Also, anyone knows what distinguishes this frame fromn a PY10? Because my PY10 has the exact same Reynolds stickers, also says "super competition" on the rear top tube. Only distinguishing feature, from where i'm sitting, is the PY 10 has the lower 3rd of the rear triangle chromed - correct?
During this era the PY10 was typically Reynolds 531SL, which used the red 531 numbering on the decals versus the green numbers of standard 531. However, there was some variation in the model designations and cosmetics between markets.
Last edited by T-Mar; 06-19-22 at 10:57 AM.
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So a frame nr starting with "812" would indicate 12/1978, 1979 model?
Also, anyone knows what distinguishes this frame fromn a PY10? Because my PY10 has the exact same Reynolds stickers, also says "super competition" on the rear top tube. Only distinguishing feature, from where i'm sitting, is the PY 10 has the lower 3rd of the rear triangle chromed - correct?
Also, anyone knows what distinguishes this frame fromn a PY10? Because my PY10 has the exact same Reynolds stickers, also says "super competition" on the rear top tube. Only distinguishing feature, from where i'm sitting, is the PY 10 has the lower 3rd of the rear triangle chromed - correct?
I almost feel like combining these two refurbishings into a PXN and PY super thread but I think they each deserve their own place.
PY10 Reynolds 531 decal
PY10 fork decal and pantographed fork crown.
1980 PXN10 Reynolds 531 decal.
PXN fork crown and Reynolds 531 decal.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 06-19-22 at 03:43 PM.
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Peugeot serial number format during this era was Bymmxxxx or Yymmxxxx. Lower case 'y' is the last digit of the year. 'mm' is the number of the month. Upper case 'B' and 'Y' are the two Peugeot production facilities, Beaulieu and Romilly. Often, you'll see a space after the production facility or year...
My bike's bottom bracket threading was Swiss, but I was able to nicely (back-and forth using a 1/2" drive breaker bar) force in a 115mm UN71 bottom bracket having alloy cups.
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I spent part of the afternoon today stripping the parts off. As usual a few issues presented themselves. Nothing terrible but a couple things on the frame need to be addressed.
As shown in the photos above the seat post is in terrible condition. The reason for that is because it’s only 25.8mm, surely that’s too small. I’m thinking 26.6 — 26.8 is more what I’m looking for but if anyone knows for certain I’d appreciate if you’d chime in here. Anyway I need to buy a reaming tool now because the tube is ovalized, not extremely bad but definitely oval. I’ve got some other seat tubes that need this treatment so it’s a tool I’ve been needing.
Scarring is deep from over cinching the bolt. Campy or Simplex would have snapped from the tension way before the clamp stopped the too small post from spinning. I’m not sure which brand this one is but it’s my new go to, it’s strong!
It’s a little out of round but perfectly fixable.
Next, I was curious about why a clamp on stop was used when there’s a brazed on cable stop next to it.
Turns out there is some extra brazing material (I think that’s all it could be?) inside plugging the cable entry.
I was hoping to quickly turn this into a build thread but now I’ve got to stuff to order and wait for. For now it will just have to be a polishing and cleaning thread, nothing wrong with that I guess.
As shown in the photos above the seat post is in terrible condition. The reason for that is because it’s only 25.8mm, surely that’s too small. I’m thinking 26.6 — 26.8 is more what I’m looking for but if anyone knows for certain I’d appreciate if you’d chime in here. Anyway I need to buy a reaming tool now because the tube is ovalized, not extremely bad but definitely oval. I’ve got some other seat tubes that need this treatment so it’s a tool I’ve been needing.
Scarring is deep from over cinching the bolt. Campy or Simplex would have snapped from the tension way before the clamp stopped the too small post from spinning. I’m not sure which brand this one is but it’s my new go to, it’s strong!
It’s a little out of round but perfectly fixable.
Next, I was curious about why a clamp on stop was used when there’s a brazed on cable stop next to it.
Turns out there is some extra brazing material (I think that’s all it could be?) inside plugging the cable entry.
I was hoping to quickly turn this into a build thread but now I’ve got to stuff to order and wait for. For now it will just have to be a polishing and cleaning thread, nothing wrong with that I guess.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 06-20-22 at 12:47 AM.
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Some photos of the empty frame before cleaning and polishing. Only the headset left to remove. I’ll start cleaning it this week.
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#24
Strong Walker
I spent part of the afternoon today stripping the parts off. As usual a few issues presented themselves. Nothing terrible but a couple things on the frame need to be addressed.
As shown in the photos above the seat post is in terrible condition. The reason for that is because it’s only 25.8mm, surely that’s too small. I’m thinking 26.6 — 26.8 is more what I’m looking for but if anyone knows for certain I’d appreciate if you’d chime in here. Anyway I need to buy a reaming tool now because the tube is ovalized, not extremely bad but definitely oval. I’ve got some other seat tubes that need this treatment so it’s a tool I’ve been needing.
Scarring is deep from over cinching the bolt. Campy or Simplex would have snapped from the tension way before the clamp stopped the too small post from spinning. I’m not sure which brand this one is but it’s my new go to, it’s strong!
As shown in the photos above the seat post is in terrible condition. The reason for that is because it’s only 25.8mm, surely that’s too small. I’m thinking 26.6 — 26.8 is more what I’m looking for but if anyone knows for certain I’d appreciate if you’d chime in here. Anyway I need to buy a reaming tool now because the tube is ovalized, not extremely bad but definitely oval. I’ve got some other seat tubes that need this treatment so it’s a tool I’ve been needing.
Scarring is deep from over cinching the bolt. Campy or Simplex would have snapped from the tension way before the clamp stopped the too small post from spinning. I’m not sure which brand this one is but it’s my new go to, it’s strong!
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It's an SR Sakae Laprade, nothing too fancy. They are super thick walled, I'd call it a rod with a hole in it rather than a tube, and the one I had to hacksaw in order to remove it from a frame had a super rough grain structure, looked suspiciously like cast instead of forged - the head may be forged though. Don't expect any compliance
There must have been millions of them made.
Nothing fancy, just got the job done..... At least they looked OK on most C&V bikes because of the flutes they bothered to cast on them and the rail clamping system is simple and effective.
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