Things we do that don't really have a practical purpose
#76
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#78
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#79
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Yeah, it would appear that tires are overrated.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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Last edited by gugie; 12-20-21 at 07:00 PM.
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Maybe if you're commuting, you need electric assist, turn signals, need to lock the bike with the handlebars, and you can actually find one for sale that you can afford.
But for me, that's all especially impractical.
What's incredibly practical is buying a $200 vintage bike, $100 worth of tools, and being able to service it myself at any time.
For the common man, what's more "practical" than a c&v bike that will last ... practically forever?
But for me, that's all especially impractical.
What's incredibly practical is buying a $200 vintage bike, $100 worth of tools, and being able to service it myself at any time.
For the common man, what's more "practical" than a c&v bike that will last ... practically forever?
#81
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My lack of OCD allows me to admire the finish on your bikes.
Some of mine only pass the (cosmetic) 10’ inspection test.
edit: to make this post thread relevant.
Collectively, WE fuss way too much over the appearance of our bikes - practically speaking, they are old workhorses, old racers, old tourers = well maintained but short of PRACTICALLY worshipped.
But why join mainstream consensus on ‘practical’?
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Last edited by Wildwood; 12-20-21 at 07:11 PM.
#82
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- Putting modern componentry on a vintage frame, or wishing we could.
- Telling myself/ourselves steel is the superior material for ride quality and feel, when a modern carbon fork mops the floor with a steel one, and a modern aluminum frame provides all the spring and non-harshness with considerably less weight.
- Use vintage brake pads with no toe adjustment (but barbarically twist aluminum brake caliper arms) when aesthetically-acceptable modern pad/pad holder options exist.
Of course I have done and still do the first. Bringing a frameset to its proverbial apex is a lot of fun, and seeing how well it can work compositionally and aesthetically is very satisfying. As to the second point, my modern (2008) and decidedly entry-level Trek 1.5 simply handles my local streets, particularly the rough-surfaced one I live on. A race bike. On 28mm tires. My 620--much longer, heavier/more solid, with 42mm tires, expressly built for this kind of thing--does either as well or is only marginally better on the big hits. And as to the third point, I prefer more elegant and less/non-abusive solutions to problems.
Yes, I do love beautiful, thinned lugs, the craftsmanship of so many steel bikes, the aesthetic of the horizontal top tube for many reasons and especially for tall frames, curved fork blades, classic-profile drop bars and a nice quill stem. I will always love them. The tallest frames always look best with horizontal top tubes, which is why I still have one.
- Telling myself/ourselves steel is the superior material for ride quality and feel, when a modern carbon fork mops the floor with a steel one, and a modern aluminum frame provides all the spring and non-harshness with considerably less weight.
- Use vintage brake pads with no toe adjustment (but barbarically twist aluminum brake caliper arms) when aesthetically-acceptable modern pad/pad holder options exist.
Of course I have done and still do the first. Bringing a frameset to its proverbial apex is a lot of fun, and seeing how well it can work compositionally and aesthetically is very satisfying. As to the second point, my modern (2008) and decidedly entry-level Trek 1.5 simply handles my local streets, particularly the rough-surfaced one I live on. A race bike. On 28mm tires. My 620--much longer, heavier/more solid, with 42mm tires, expressly built for this kind of thing--does either as well or is only marginally better on the big hits. And as to the third point, I prefer more elegant and less/non-abusive solutions to problems.
Yes, I do love beautiful, thinned lugs, the craftsmanship of so many steel bikes, the aesthetic of the horizontal top tube for many reasons and especially for tall frames, curved fork blades, classic-profile drop bars and a nice quill stem. I will always love them. The tallest frames always look best with horizontal top tubes, which is why I still have one.
Last edited by RiddleOfSteel; 12-20-21 at 08:25 PM.
#83
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Neal, I always suspected your knickers used to be white…
Roger Musson insists on the hub label, valve hole trick and even though he comes across as a bit of a crank in his book, I do what I’m told.
Quick release lever angles - There’s a friend of ours who tells the story of Francesco Moser demonstrating to him the proper angle, which is pointing aft parallel to the ground. I admit to trying this on some of my racier bikes and it feels right and maybe even I go a little faster.
Roger Musson insists on the hub label, valve hole trick and even though he comes across as a bit of a crank in his book, I do what I’m told.
Quick release lever angles - There’s a friend of ours who tells the story of Francesco Moser demonstrating to him the proper angle, which is pointing aft parallel to the ground. I admit to trying this on some of my racier bikes and it feels right and maybe even I go a little faster.
#84
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My lack of OCD allows me to admire the finish on your bikes.
Some of mine only pass the (cosmetic) 10’ inspection test.
edit: to make this post thread relevant.
Collectively, WE fuss way too much over the appearance of our bikes - practically speaking, they are old workhorses, old racers, old tourers = well maintained but short of PRACTICALLY worshipped.
But why join mainstream consensus on ‘practical’?
Some of mine only pass the (cosmetic) 10’ inspection test.
edit: to make this post thread relevant.
Collectively, WE fuss way too much over the appearance of our bikes - practically speaking, they are old workhorses, old racers, old tourers = well maintained but short of PRACTICALLY worshipped.
But why join mainstream consensus on ‘practical’?
Only two pristine bikes...the Cannondale and the Trek 670 I am trying to get rolling on...maybe the Rossin. Rest has plenty o' rustand/or touch up nail polish.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#85
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Many of us will remember not being spendy enough to be riding a newer bike among potentially judgemental others such as in a club.
So it was important to keep the old bike looking fresh, with fresh-looking cabling, tape and tires, and with matching rims, etc.
Also, many of us have chosen to keep our bikes fresh and original-looking, in the hopes of maintaining it's resale value.
Such thrifty and maybe aesthetic values tend to accumulate over time, until a bike looks right only when it's kept well-sorted, so can become obsessive just as a bike's functional performance can become.
And so we do as we do, right down to using just the right cable housing ferrule or the right, minimalist valve stem length.
So it was important to keep the old bike looking fresh, with fresh-looking cabling, tape and tires, and with matching rims, etc.
Also, many of us have chosen to keep our bikes fresh and original-looking, in the hopes of maintaining it's resale value.
Such thrifty and maybe aesthetic values tend to accumulate over time, until a bike looks right only when it's kept well-sorted, so can become obsessive just as a bike's functional performance can become.
And so we do as we do, right down to using just the right cable housing ferrule or the right, minimalist valve stem length.
#86
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In 40+ year of riding and 35+ years of mountain biking…including a significant amount of bush whacking…I have never had a lever flip open. My rear lever is pointed forward and below the chainstay. My front one is in front of the leg and pointed up. It’s not a safety issue if it’s not an issue at all.
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#87
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In 40+ year of riding and 35+ years of mountain biking…including a significant amount of bush whacking…I have never had a lever flip open. My rear lever is pointed forward and below the chainstay. My front one is in front of the leg and pointed up. It’s not a safety issue if it’s not an issue at all.
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#88
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Look on a ("road") tyre for indications that it should be mounted so that it spins one way rather than the other, and dutifully make sure to mount it in the way indicated.
(I'm not entirely sure that the orientation is completely meaningless, but I don't notice any difference in use.)
(I'm not entirely sure that the orientation is completely meaningless, but I don't notice any difference in use.)
I do a bike ride in London every Summer, and rent a bike to use for the ride. It surprised me, but that's how the rental bikes I've used have been set up...first time I had to take evasive action it made for quite a surprise, lol.
#89
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On that one there is a practical purpose, as noted earlier on this thread. Not a necessity, but it does help in finding the small objects embedded in tires that are the cause of many flats.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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In 40+ year of riding and 35+ years of mountain biking…including a significant amount of bush whacking…I have never had a lever flip open. My rear lever is pointed forward and below the chainstay. My front one is in front of the leg and pointed up. It’s not a safety issue if it’s not an issue at all.
#91
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I’m a bit of a traditionalist with a little bit of “hippie” rebellion mixed in. I try to keep everything in order as far as , tire label adjacent to valve stem, wheels laced correctly(even though I’m no expert), skewer “lever on the left”, cables behind bars, period correct clothing when possible, drive side photos, yea long list. It is tough being me. I do wear weird socks as some will attest., and I’ve been known to violate my own rules when feeling rebellious. There is a saying on the CR list “just ride the bloody bike”, I love it. I have been riding with a few guys from my neighborhood and they are modern bike guys. They don’t really understand , they take their bikes in for service , and now that I’m riding with them, one of the guys is talking about building a bike from the frame out. When I first started riding with them he was surprised that I build/rebuild my own bikes.
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#92
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yea, I went over the bars on my Mondia that has bar end shifters . I have a nice scar on the inside of my right thigh where one of them completely buried itself in my flesh!
#93
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+1 and this has saved me a couple of times, once about 20 miles from the car. As I knew where to look, it me moments to find the metal shard. Otherwise it would have popped the spare I put in there. Also, in the event I'd needed to patch the tube but not found the shard, I'd would have put the tube back in in the same spot and the patch would have protected the tube. Belt and suspenders.
#94
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Making sure my rim strips/tape read from the right.
Pointing my rear skewer straight down.
Using only white bar tape and never cleaning it.
Pointing my rear skewer straight down.
Using only white bar tape and never cleaning it.
#95
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How many eyes have you lost? And if you manage to poke a quick release lever into your eye, you probably have bigger problems to deal with.
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#96
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#97
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#98
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- Putting modern componentry on a vintage frame, or wishing we could.
- Telling myself/ourselves steel is the superior material for ride quality and feel, when a modern carbon fork mops the floor with a steel one, and a modern aluminum frame provides all the spring and non-harshness with considerably less weight.
- Use vintage brake pads with no toe adjustment (but barbarically twist aluminum brake caliper arms) when aesthetically-acceptable modern pad/pad holder options exist.
Of course I have done and still do the first. Bringing a frameset to its proverbial apex is a lot of fun, and seeing how well it can work compositionally and aesthetically is very satisfying. As to the second point, my modern (2008) and decidedly entry-level Trek 1.5 simply handles my local streets, particularly the rough-surfaced one I live on. A race bike. On 28mm tires. My 620--much longer, heavier/more solid, with 42mm tires, expressly built for this kind of thing--does either as well or is only marginally better on the big hits. And as to the third point, I prefer more elegant and less/non-abusive solutions to problems.
Yes, I do love beautiful, thinned lugs, the craftsmanship of so many steel bikes, the aesthetic of the horizontal top tube for many reasons and especially for tall frames, curved fork blades, classic-profile drop bars and a nice quill stem. I will always love them. The tallest frames always look best with horizontal top tubes, which is why I still have one.
- Telling myself/ourselves steel is the superior material for ride quality and feel, when a modern carbon fork mops the floor with a steel one, and a modern aluminum frame provides all the spring and non-harshness with considerably less weight.
- Use vintage brake pads with no toe adjustment (but barbarically twist aluminum brake caliper arms) when aesthetically-acceptable modern pad/pad holder options exist.
Of course I have done and still do the first. Bringing a frameset to its proverbial apex is a lot of fun, and seeing how well it can work compositionally and aesthetically is very satisfying. As to the second point, my modern (2008) and decidedly entry-level Trek 1.5 simply handles my local streets, particularly the rough-surfaced one I live on. A race bike. On 28mm tires. My 620--much longer, heavier/more solid, with 42mm tires, expressly built for this kind of thing--does either as well or is only marginally better on the big hits. And as to the third point, I prefer more elegant and less/non-abusive solutions to problems.
Yes, I do love beautiful, thinned lugs, the craftsmanship of so many steel bikes, the aesthetic of the horizontal top tube for many reasons and especially for tall frames, curved fork blades, classic-profile drop bars and a nice quill stem. I will always love them. The tallest frames always look best with horizontal top tubes, which is why I still have one.
YMMV, of course.
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#99
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There's seven deadly sins...and then there's that lesser one, in small print called Stridency. Ask me how I know.
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- Lugged frames only, please. He Who Shall Not Be Named declared that lugged frames are stronger. Hmm, lots of fillet brazed frames from Jack Taylor, Ritchey, Jeff Lyons, and others aren't falling apart at the joints...not to mention the numerous TIG welded frames out there are holding up just fine. There's a bit of a tail wagging the dog here, where you're forced to design a frame around available lug angles.