The seat forward on old road-bikes thread....
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#27
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Can't believe you didn't pick that, SurferRosa
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"Huffy precision engineering." There are three words I never thought would be placed in the same sentence.
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Seat forward always reminds me of bikes like the 1925 Appelhans track bike at Classic Cycle US. Love the copper plating.
Appelhans Track Bike
Appelhans Track Bike
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I am about the same age as you and I never liked toe clips either. Recently I started riding more, and I realized that they really do add some efficiency. I found some old plastic ones with fairly big toes and removed the straps, and it gives me a decent percentage of the benefit while still being able to get my feet off the pedals pretty quickly.
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Is that bike covered in spaghetti??
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With a laid-back seat-tube, if you are pedaling hard, you are pushing yourself off the back of the seat, it is like a recumbent with no backrest, and you can not use all of your weight on the pedals.
With the seat forward, or with a steep seat-tube and your weight over the pedals, when pedaling hard you are pushing yourself up instead of back, and the extra weight over the pedals means you can press on them harder if you are in shape and have the muscle to do so.
Also with the handlebar closer to the bottom-bracket and seat, a rider can have more force on the bars transfering to the pedals, where a rider reaching far ahead to the bars will not be able to use them for as much leverage.
As far as speed and power are concerned, it seems to me that having a steeper effecting seat-tube angle is better, and I think true racing bicycles are built that way. The poor-man's answer to not having a new racing bicycle, is to just move the seat forwards. This is my experiment, as I get in shape this summer riding season I will see how fast I can average over an old local time-trial course. I think despite my age and having had a heart-attack/surgery last year, I will be able to go over 20mph on the yellow bike as it is.
With the seat forward, or with a steep seat-tube and your weight over the pedals, when pedaling hard you are pushing yourself up instead of back, and the extra weight over the pedals means you can press on them harder if you are in shape and have the muscle to do so.
Also with the handlebar closer to the bottom-bracket and seat, a rider can have more force on the bars transfering to the pedals, where a rider reaching far ahead to the bars will not be able to use them for as much leverage.
As far as speed and power are concerned, it seems to me that having a steeper effecting seat-tube angle is better, and I think true racing bicycles are built that way. The poor-man's answer to not having a new racing bicycle, is to just move the seat forwards. This is my experiment, as I get in shape this summer riding season I will see how fast I can average over an old local time-trial course. I think despite my age and having had a heart-attack/surgery last year, I will be able to go over 20mph on the yellow bike as it is.
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Pedals that are relatively tall and/or short front-to-rear can actually roll forward under the rider's foot, causing on one occasion a crash when my foot slipped forward off my new Stumpjumper Sport's pedal and striking the ground in front of it.
Flexible-soled shoes have the ability to conform and effectively wrap around the top surface of the pedals, making inadvertant "disengagement" far (edited) LESS likely (though coming at the expense of foot comfort on longer rides that involve hard pedaling uphill).
Today's lower-profiled, spiked and longer (front-to-rear) "flat" pedals are used by a lot of mtb riders, even in competition, so seem entirely viable to me. Our local hard-riding road bike club has a couple who use such pedals and are "competitive" with other riders on varied recreational rides into the foothills.
Like many other equipment changes, rider adaptation can be required in order to recover full proficiency using newly-changed parts or configuration.
Different models of clipless pedals offer differing ranges of retention force adjustment, so for riders new to clipless pedals, it can be advantageous to select pedals which allow for the greatest degree of adjustment in the "looser" direction. At some point of looseness, the length of the rider's foot (from ankle to cleat) acts as enough of a torque/lever arm such that merely moving one's leg laterally to the outside can effect enough torque at the shoe to clip out of the pedal binding automatically.
Last edited by dddd; 05-23-22 at 06:10 PM.
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Most riding bikes do not have "foot retention", I never had a bike with any sort of thing until I was in my mid-30s. If someone has a problem with "unforeseen" bumps and keeping their feet on pedals then I agree bicycling is dangerous for them and they should switch to walking.
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And today, fifty years after my Huffy road-bike rolled out of the factory, it has not been disposed of, and very many times I have enjoyed blowing off riders wearing "luxurious" clothing on bikes that cost thousands of dollars. Ironic..........
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These are all cool stories
I also love to drope the hamer when i see other guys' (and gals) with luxurious clothing
But i think i will get back to the Johnny Depp/ Amber Heard saga now
I also love to drope the hamer when i see other guys' (and gals) with luxurious clothing
But i think i will get back to the Johnny Depp/ Amber Heard saga now
Last edited by DMC707; 05-18-22 at 10:19 AM.
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Come on now...You may have blown them off, but did you blow by them? Maybe when they were stopped by the side of the road enjoying the view and a sip of water? Because your Huffy isn't geared anywhere near what a top-end racing bike is. It may not even be competitive with a good mountain bike. Might as well tell me you "blew off" a Ferrari in your 1966 stock VW bug.
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Come on now...You may have blown them off, but did you blow by them? Maybe when they were stopped by the side of the road enjoying the view and a sip of water? Because your Huffy isn't geared anywhere near what a top-end racing bike is. It may not even be competitive with a good mountain bike. Might as well tell me you "blew off" a Ferrari in your 1966 stock VW bug.
All he has to do is dial it up to 400 watts
Last edited by DMC707; 05-19-22 at 12:04 PM.
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#44
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Come on now...You may have blown them off, but did you blow by them? Maybe when they were stopped by the side of the road enjoying the view and a sip of water? Because your Huffy isn't geared anywhere near what a top-end racing bike is. It may not even be competitive with a good mountain bike. Might as well tell me you "blew off" a Ferrari in your 1966 stock VW bug.
Last edited by beng1; 05-24-22 at 07:43 PM. Reason: Correcting Typo
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??? It has the standard 14-28 rear freewheel that almost every ten-speed bike ever made has, and it has a 52-tooth big chainwheel on the front, so you do the math. I usually ride around town on the big front chainwheel and I think the 19-tooth wheel in back, which is 8th gear. That is good for 19.2mph at 88rpm at the pedals, and you have two gears higher than that to go...... These are my calculations for 8th gear I made one day last year after I did a 12.5 mile lap of one old time-trial course at 19.2mph and wanted to see what my pedal rpm was;
my race gear limit at the time was 44x14.
52x18 is about a 78" gear.
I see guys in the big ring all the time, usually a 53. Often with their hips rotating side to side too. I ask how much their knees and saddle, lower back hurts... " how do you know?"
I can see it. Goes with the knees swinging out too. These are guys with "clipless" pedals too.
poor blighters.
Last edited by repechage; 05-19-22 at 03:39 PM.
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The only time a power increase of 25% or more is realized is in very short sprints by very serious cyclists. At any long distance there is not enough difference in efficiency between having or not having retention for an amateur to worry about, it is less than ten percent for the serious, and for amateurs probably less than five percent.
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52x18 is about a 78" gear.I see guys in the big ring all the time, usually a 53. Often with their hips rotating side to side too. I ask how much their knees and saddle, lower back hurts... " how do you know?"
I can see it. Goes with the knees swinging out too. These are guys with "clipless" pedals too.
poor blighters.
I can see it. Goes with the knees swinging out too. These are guys with "clipless" pedals too.
poor blighters.
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??? It has the standard 14-28 rear freewheel that almost every ten-speed bike ever made has, and it has a 52-tooth big chainwheel on the front, so you do the math. I usually ride around town on the big front chainwheel and I think the 19-tooth wheel in back, which is 8th gear. That is good for 19.2mph at 88rpm at the pedals, and you have two gears higher than that to go...... These are my calculations for 8th gear I made one day last year after I did a 12.5 mile lap of one old time-trial course at 19.2mph and wanted to see what my pedal rpm was;
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However, I recall quad dominant riders being called "mashers" and experienced roadies with a more balanced use of hamstrings/glutes/quads being thought of as spinning smoothly.
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No, if you look at the railings in people showers, in medical facilities etc. that are all bare steel. Maybe some people have a big problem with sweaty hands or something, I never did. I always thought that my skin against metal had very good grip. Also that is not duct tape holding the cables, that is electrical tape. Most old low-end ten-speeds had full-length cable housings, the tape was in the garage, cheap and got the job done, when I want to ride, I am not going to put it off for something so minor. The tape has well over a thousand miles on it, I recommend Scotch Super-33-plus, if you are bucks-up you can get Scotch 88 which has a wider heat-range specification. Originally the bike had some clips, but they were probably plastic and probably were lost long ago;
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