How to expose chrome under paint without damaging it?
#1
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How to expose chrome under paint without damaging it?
Hello, does anyone now of any good methods of removing the paint of a frame without damaging or scratching the chrome underneath. I want to do this because the frame's paint is not the best and I love the look of chrome forks and seat/chain stays on a vintage bike. Any advice is appreciated. The frame in question is a 1987 Schwinn Super Sport, in case anyone is curious.
#2
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Can I presume this isn't factory paint? If you can find a chemical stripper, that would seem less risky than mechanical means. Schwinn and Raleigh both had some of the best chroming in the industry, but any time you resort to using friction to remove paint over it, there's a chance you can remove some of the chrome and expose the nickel plating that's underneath it.
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I've used soda blasting with good results.
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#4
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I have a chrome finished Schwinn that had a clear coat layer over the chrome. The clear coat had cracked and pealed in places. I used an aircraft finish stripper that I ordered at an auto parts store to strip the clear coat. It worked quickly. Spray it on - wait five minutes and then scrap it off with a plastic scraper, such as an old credit card. Be sure to mask off anything you don't want stripped. Wear rubber gloves, long garments to cover your arms and legs, as it burns if you get it on your skin. I would do this outside. Her is a photo of what I used. It cost about $10 for the can.
#5
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Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll look into getting some of that aircraft finish stripper, it looks like the way to go.
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The clearcoat above is a very different thing.
Earlier on Schwinn's paint was very tough and had red oxide primer underneath that is brutal to strip.
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What Merziac said! lots of frames used to get chromed and then painted because it was a good way to help eter corrosion, and as I was told, it changed the ride charistics of the frame. If this part id true it likely has more to do with the electrical charge running through the frame than the actual coating. OH anyway as mentions chrome that is meantto be under the paint isn't as nicely finished as the 'show chrome' you commonly see on forks and stays. The metal underneath isn't as nicely polished the chrome left in rougher condition so the paint adheres better. You could strip the paint off and have sort of a matte or satin chrome finish. A kid I used to ride with in the late '80s did this to a beautiful purple Austro Daimler, after he wrecked it a few times, and it was forever an ugly bike.
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Everyone knows that orange paint makes a bike go faster.
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#9
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Well the bike is made from Colombus Tenax tubing, which I've heard was blemished Colombus SL or SP tubing so your point may in fact be true. In any case the original paint, is not the best nor to my liking so it would be prepped for paint regardless. When ever I get the chance to go through with it, I'll post my findings and results.
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I question whether a 1987 Schwinn Super Sport built in Greenville, MS is fully chromed. rccardr has reworked a lot of late-80s Schwinn framesets. Perhaps he can offer better insight. Either way, an ‘87 Super Sport is a good all-around bike.
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As there is plenty that can damage your respiratory tract floating about right now-
The common active ingredient in "Aircraft" paint stripper is Methylene Chloride. Nasty stuff, but effective.
All that was advised is good but I don't think complete.
reference good gloves, actually gauntlets, they are longer. "nitrile" is not enough. I turn the last 3/4" back around to catch anything that could drip off.
work outdoors, medium temperature, in the shade.
Get a real cartridge respirator. Yes, they cost, get a big ziplock bag to store it. Why have the filters continue to work when it is not assisting you?
Goggles. Yes, goggles. Shop type is fine.
bucket of water and sponge at the ready should you feel burning on skin.
Apply. either by brush or spray ( liquid is cheaper- the stuff is quite viscous)
then wrap the tubes in saran wrap. The active chemicals will not evaporate as quickly, but will stay where you want. Especially useful when removing powdercoat.
A stiff nylon or polyester scrub brush is also helpful to get into tight areas.
Do not be surprised that areas that were chromed but painted over were not polished to a class A standard.
The common active ingredient in "Aircraft" paint stripper is Methylene Chloride. Nasty stuff, but effective.
All that was advised is good but I don't think complete.
reference good gloves, actually gauntlets, they are longer. "nitrile" is not enough. I turn the last 3/4" back around to catch anything that could drip off.
work outdoors, medium temperature, in the shade.
Get a real cartridge respirator. Yes, they cost, get a big ziplock bag to store it. Why have the filters continue to work when it is not assisting you?
Goggles. Yes, goggles. Shop type is fine.
bucket of water and sponge at the ready should you feel burning on skin.
Apply. either by brush or spray ( liquid is cheaper- the stuff is quite viscous)
then wrap the tubes in saran wrap. The active chemicals will not evaporate as quickly, but will stay where you want. Especially useful when removing powdercoat.
A stiff nylon or polyester scrub brush is also helpful to get into tight areas.
Do not be surprised that areas that were chromed but painted over were not polished to a class A standard.
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Use a citrus based paint stripper. There are plenty around and they work very well. It won't harm the chrome, and it won't harm you either!
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