Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Carbon fork cutting error

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Carbon fork cutting error

Old 01-24-21, 08:46 AM
  #1  
bugello
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Carbon fork cutting error

Hi everybody

I am new on the forum with an uncomfortable situation: I currently am at my first bike-build, a genesis fugio, which all went great, until I cut the carbon fork. I did to little reaserch, and mounted the thingy to keep the saw in line the wrong way round. So I had tension on the fork whilst cutting, which at the end led to a splitting in the outter layer of the carbon fibre. I would attache an image, but this is just my first post, so I cannot yet. I just know, that carbon damage is a serious thing, so maybe someone with more experience might judge, how bad it is?

Thanks for your response in advance

Cheers
bugello is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 09:18 AM
  #2  
sdmc530
Heft On Wheels
 
sdmc530's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,123

Bikes: Specialized,Cannondale,Argon 18

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 560 Times in 346 Posts
I know you can't send post a pic yet but it probably would be needed to diagnose. I would be leery of delaminated carbon anything on a fork.
sdmc530 is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 09:37 AM
  #3  
trailangel
Senior Member
 
trailangel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 4,848

Bikes: Schwinn Varsity

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1931 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times in 422 Posts
I am not visioning what you did. My only thought is you used a dull hacksaw blade.
trailangel is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 09:57 AM
  #4  
grizzly59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 712
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times in 164 Posts
So you tightened a worm drive hose clamp on the fork as a cutting guide? Tightened it on the steerer tube fork crown/blades side, not the side you would throw away when you finished the cut? You need pics. Keep replying until you get enough posts.
grizzly59 is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 09:59 AM
  #5  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
So you had the cutting guide clamped on the piece you were cutting off and when you got to the end of the cut it fell and splintered the last bit of steerer tube? Impossible to give you any advice w/o seeing the damage but you likely ruined the fork.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 10:09 AM
  #6  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,048

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4191 Post(s)
Liked 3,836 Times in 2,294 Posts
How much of the steerer's wall thickness is splintered. Would the splinter be described as a layer or a strip?

I have seen a similar situation where a thin layer on the outside surface of the steerer got peeled off for about 1/4". The manager epoxied the missing "valley" and the end's face with a wiped on layer then installed a solid plug with more epoxy. I know the fork was working well a few yeas later as it was the service manager's personal bike and he showed that off when he was later servicing it. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 10:37 AM
  #7  
Barry2 
LR÷P=HR
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,160

Bikes: 1981 Holdsworth Special, 1993 C-dale MT3000 & 1996 F700CAD3, 2018 Cervelo R3 & 2022 R5, JustGo Runt, Ridley Oval, Kickr Bike 8-)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 862 Post(s)
Liked 1,194 Times in 687 Posts
Originally Posted by bugello
which all went great, until I cut the carbon fork.
Fork failure is terrible. There is no planning, or predicting it.
If a stranger on the internet tells you “it’s OK” even from a photo, only you know if you’ll ever be comfortable riding it.

If you have a bike savvy resource you trust, have them look, touch, tap, and wrench on it.
The “it’s OK” would be more likely to set your mind to rest.

Barry
Barry2 is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 11:10 AM
  #8  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,225

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
A picture is a must to advise on the extent of the damage. If you've cut the steerer long enough for 10-20mm of spacer (or more), you may just be able to cut off the damage. I do some unusual things with carbon steering tubes, like glue in a thread insert, rather than use an expanding plug. I've also extended the length of a steering tube by 10-15mm, using JB Weld epoxy, at the same time that I installed the permanent thread insert. As a mechanical engineer and machinist, I know what I'm doing. I want more than half of the stem clamp length to be the original steering tube.

I just finished eliminating the expanding plug on both of my newest frames. I take a 1" or 1-1/8" start nut and grind the OD so it just slips into the steering tube to use as my thread insert. I plug the steering to the appropriate depth with foam rubber and fill the entire upper 30-40mm of the tube with epoxy. Once it's cured, it's rock solid. With my current frame, I set the star nut deep enough so a future owner could saw off up to 15mm of the steerer to lower the stem, if needed. Any more wouldn't leave enough length for the 15mm headset top cover and the 40mm stem clamp height. To actually extend a steering tube, a copper tube coupling with a 1-1/8" ID is slipped over the steerer and serves as a precise mold for the extension. After the epoxy cures, the mold is removed.

Last edited by DaveSSS; 01-24-21 at 12:32 PM.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 10:20 PM
  #9  
katsup
Senior Member
 
katsup's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,770

Bikes: 1995 ParkPre Pro 825 2021 Soma Fog Cutter v2 and 2021 Cotic SolarisMax

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 607 Post(s)
Liked 560 Times in 318 Posts
Here is the OP's photo gallery with said photo

https://bikeforums.net/g/album/20392113
katsup is offline  
Old 01-24-21, 11:31 PM
  #10  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,048

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4191 Post(s)
Liked 3,836 Times in 2,294 Posts
That bothers me... It looks like there's at least two layers of carbon ribbon lay down and a thin strip of the upper one has torn off for about 35-40mm. Way deeper into a stem clamp then I want to do. Plus the loss of what I think is a complete lay out layer makes this fork steerer one I would not try to self repair. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 04:17 AM
  #11  
Amt0571
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Catalonia
Posts: 956

Bikes: Canyon Grand Canyon AL SL 8.0, Triban RC520 Gravel Ltd, Btwin Ultra 520 AF GF, Triban Road 7, Benotto 850

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 402 Post(s)
Liked 215 Times in 137 Posts
After seeing the pic, I wouldn't ride that fork. Not even repaired.

You can risk some things on a bike, but a steerer failure is not one of them.

Whataver the cost of the fork is, it's cheaper than your life.
Amt0571 is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 06:59 AM
  #12  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,673

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 566 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 403 Posts
Don't know where you are from but unless I had an experienced shop look it over and assure me it can be repaired ( seriously doubt possible) we would not use it.
easyupbug is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 07:12 AM
  #13  
Russ Roth
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,785

Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1079 Post(s)
Liked 1,016 Times in 719 Posts
Surprised at all the people saying no, really doesn't look like much damage from the entirety of the steerer tube. I would epoxy the piece down, lightly sand it smooth and never give it another thought. If it takes that tiny amount of damage to a steerer tube to make it completely unsafe and unusable then how do any of you ever feel comfortable riding on a carbon fork? That doesn't even effect the overall structure of the layers its a part of as those are still bonded the other 98% of the way around and doesn't even go the full length of the tube.
Russ Roth is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 07:24 AM
  #14  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,493
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3646 Post(s)
Liked 5,378 Times in 2,730 Posts
You couldn't pay me to ride that. Order another and chalk it up, move on. Sounds like an easy mistake to make so don't beat yourself up.
shelbyfv is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 07:44 AM
  #15  
Amt0571
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Catalonia
Posts: 956

Bikes: Canyon Grand Canyon AL SL 8.0, Triban RC520 Gravel Ltd, Btwin Ultra 520 AF GF, Triban Road 7, Benotto 850

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 402 Post(s)
Liked 215 Times in 137 Posts
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
Surprised at all the people saying no, really doesn't look like much damage from the entirety of the steerer tube. I would epoxy the piece down, lightly sand it smooth and never give it another thought. If it takes that tiny amount of damage to a steerer tube to make it completely unsafe and unusable then how do any of you ever feel comfortable riding on a carbon fork? That doesn't even effect the overall structure of the layers its a part of as those are still bonded the other 98% of the way around and doesn't even go the full length of the tube.
Carbon is strong as long as you apply pressure in the way it was designed to. Otherwise, it's brittle. The steerer on that pic is probably going to delaminate when subjected to normal use, and when you find out it's possible you have already smashed your skull on the asphalt on a descent.

I feel comfortable riding on a carbon fork because:

1. Mine is not damaged.
2. I remove the fork once a year to inspect the fork itself and, specially the steerer tube.
3. Nobody except me works in my bikes and I always use a torque wrench when carbon is involved.

Having said that, I don't like carbon because of this type of issues. In my, probably unpopular opinion, it doesn't have enough advantages over a good alu frame to be worth it.
Amt0571 is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 07:54 AM
  #16  
Barry2 
LR÷P=HR
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,160

Bikes: 1981 Holdsworth Special, 1993 C-dale MT3000 & 1996 F700CAD3, 2018 Cervelo R3 & 2022 R5, JustGo Runt, Ridley Oval, Kickr Bike 8-)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 862 Post(s)
Liked 1,194 Times in 687 Posts
My next step would be to contact Genesis support. (Cap in hand).
They are unlikely to give you an OK, but might cut you some slack on a replacement.

Barry
Barry2 is offline  
Likes For Barry2:
Old 01-25-21, 08:23 AM
  #17  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,225

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
I've never seen such extensive damage from a botched cut. A professional repair would probably cost more than it's worth. If it was cut for a large frame, it might be useable on a smaller frame. No way would I apply some epoxy just to the exterior and use it. It would need internal reinforcement too. As I've noted, it is possible to fill the entire damaged length with solid epoxy.

Next time, mark the cut line and wrap with masking tape below the line. Make short cuts around the perimeter, no more than half way through the first time around, then go around a second time to go through. A crooked cut can be fixed with a sanding block.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 08:27 AM
  #18  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times in 806 Posts
"It's only a flesh wound..."

Seriously, I like Barry's suggestion ^. You can categorize the risk in riding this fork in the following way. Failure Mode: steerer tube breaks, leading to immediate loss of steering control. Severity of outcome: Catastrophic (highest among: catastrophic, critical, moderate, negligible). Likelihood of outcome: Medium (mid-range among: very high, high, medium, low, very low). A catastrophic/medium is a no-go without successful mediation, it cannot be simply accepted. Mediation in this case can be repair or replacement.

You see, the likelihood is the thing that we are struggling with. Is it medium? Is it high? An experienced carbon repair shop/facility can give you a better idea. I'm saying that it is likely to fail. But what do I know. If it were my fork, I'd replace it rather than repair it.
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 09:46 AM
  #19  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,661
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times in 742 Posts
Most CF repair places do not even do forks but you could contact one of the best Carbon Repair – Calfee Design to see what they have to say about it. At least two places I've checked mention they don't do forks due to the cost is usually more than a new fork but not necessarily safety concerns. My thought is that if this shredded so easily how much strength was that layer supplying in the first place and would a repair really not be strong enough? Not going to recommend what the OP should do but is a repair really out of the question with snapped-in-two frames being safely repaired?
Crankycrank is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 10:01 AM
  #20  
grizzly59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 712
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times in 164 Posts
From your picture it looks like you cut into an area that was void of Epoxy to begin with. The folks (Genesis?) who made the fork might look at it and say it was a bad fork to start with. Might be worth your while as a first step. Agree with Barry2 above
grizzly59 is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 12:51 PM
  #21  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,225

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
Looking at the picture more closely, it may be a case of defective lamination. The outer layer that came loose doesn't look to be bonded to the inner layer. The manufacturer might replace it, if that's the case.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 01:36 PM
  #22  
vane171
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 490
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 252 Post(s)
Liked 67 Times in 48 Posts
If its self repair and or rideable at least in part depends how and where you ride your bikes. If you are younger (stronger / heavy build) and serious (tons of miles in fast clip speeds) bike rider and ride in some hilly region that has hairy/fast downhill rides, than you may not want to use that fork.

On the other hand, if you are past any competitive bracket or don't have any such ambitions and ride for pleasure in a sporting fashion in places where you don't reach freaky speeds, the fork might well still be rideable. Maybe if you are not shaving grams, you can fill the tube with epoxy (as per advice above) or 'epoxy in' inserted smaller diameter tube of some sort (if you are handy with such jobs).

I am sure such advice might be irresponsible or what you might choose to call it but way too often, I see here on the forum discussions that totally lack the context of the particular bike riders (mostly the OPosters don't supply any context, assuming everybody here has 'the same one' as them). Here in BF, you get seasoned semi-pro mixed with mere pleasure bike riders, commuters, you name it, from all kinds of regions. Like if I lived in Alps, or some freaky downhill region in US, etc., I might have different opinion on things. Having said all that, I'd also recommend showing the fork to some shop, more qualified folks...

I used to drive a Dodge van when I was much younger and it was completely fine in my home region in Canada but when taken on a coast to coast trips across US, I found at times my brakes were not up to the job on some downhills while I was eyeing those 'run away' sandy strips and wondering if I was ripe for them... and there were other instances when it was clear, the vehicle wasn't up to it, like too high temperatures in Death Valley, or too steep, too long uphills, even elevation above sea level while in Mexico on Popocatepetl

Last edited by vane171; 01-25-21 at 01:46 PM.
vane171 is offline  
Old 01-25-21, 01:40 PM
  #23  
Koyote
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,832
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6929 Post(s)
Liked 10,931 Times in 4,668 Posts
Originally Posted by katsup
Here is the OP's photo gallery with said photo

https://bikeforums.net/g/album/20392113
Ouch.
Koyote is offline  
Old 01-26-21, 07:52 AM
  #24  
sdmc530
Heft On Wheels
 
sdmc530's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,123

Bikes: Specialized,Cannondale,Argon 18

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 560 Times in 346 Posts
Originally Posted by Koyote
Ouch.

right...

I would not ride that fork....
sdmc530 is offline  
Old 01-26-21, 12:13 PM
  #25  
woodcraft
Senior Member
 
woodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 6,016
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1814 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 923 Times in 569 Posts
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
Surprised at all the people saying no, really doesn't look like much damage from the entirety of the steerer tube. I would epoxy the piece down, lightly sand it smooth and never give it another thought. If it takes that tiny amount of damage to a steerer tube to make it completely unsafe and unusable then how do any of you ever feel comfortable riding on a carbon fork? That doesn't even effect the overall structure of the layers its a part of as those are still bonded the other 98% of the way around and doesn't even go the full length of the tube.

+1 Not surprised at the responses, but generally agree with this.
woodcraft is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.